Suprgnat's '13 M-Sport 128i, a mostly visual history

[Suprgnat]

While everything else is apart.

[Suprgnat]

I couldn't get the Ebay heat exchanger clean enough to my satisfaction so I bought a new one. The parts to build a proper cleaning system would have cost more.

[Suprgnat]

This is what happens when things sit around too long.

[Suprgnat]

The set is complete.

10 In/Lb to 365 Ft/Lb

[Suprgnat]

Finally got around to installing the 130i rear hub conversion.

The TL;DR: if you have a 128i and want the 135i rear brakes, just get the rear hubs and axles from a pre-LCI automatic 135i (with a 188 diff). They're a direct bolt-in, parking brakes and all. I went a little further and cleaned everything up and converted to the narrow hubs (i.e. 130i).

I'll get some exterior shots after I clean up the gunk from the rotor coating wearing off.

[Suprgnat]

When I did the 130i rear hub conversion I discovered that the 39k mile Rogue toe arms are finally shot. Worse yet, the outboard links can no longer be torqued to spec as the original aluminum spacers are now deforming and collapsing under torquing load.

I purchased these replacement bearings in August of 2014,about 30k miles ago in anticipation of today. Talk about prescient. They are FK JMX series with a 17,959 lbs. ultimate static radial load compared to the original FK NJM series bearings at 7,400 lbs. They might be overkill.

To address the spacer issue I went to the source and contacted Ben at Rogue Engineering and he whipped me up a set of custom replacement spacers out of stainless steel and had them to me in record time. We started the conversation on Tuesday and they were in my hands on Saturday. Custom. Cross country. That's customer service!

Now I'm waiting on the arrival of the SPL rear toe arm eccentric lock-out kit. I would have had it made as it's basically a set of square washers but my machinist quit and sold off all of his machines. Guess I could have made a set with my chop saw, the drill press, and some hardware store aluminum strip but, naw.

[Suprgnat]

Here's a snapshot of the worst two failing spacers for the toe arms. The mushrooming of the aluminum is quite evident.

The SPL eccentric lock-out kit will be here today and hopefully I'll have time to get it installed and aligned this weekend.

[WDE82]

So what was the purpose of the new hubs?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by WDE82

So what was the purpose of the new hubs?

10 mm per side more clearance to the fenders. I'll eventually get 245/40-17 square on my existing 17x8.5 wheels (currently 225/45 square). This is a no-rub solution.

Also with the new hub carriers (and narrow hubs) one gains the ability to use a large variety of brake calipers. I went with the Performance calipers to match my fronts, but it can run anything a 335i can (e.g.: 335i=Ø44 mm calipers with Ø336 mm x 22 mm rotors vs. the stock 128i's Ø40 mm calipers and Ø300 mm x 20 mm rotors). Combined with 335i front calipers you'd have some pretty decent heat capacity on a tracked 128i.

Bonus points for heavier-duty hub carriers, axles (27mm vs. 24mm), and parking brakes.

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

10 mm per side more clearance to the fenders. I'll eventually get 245/40-17 square on my existing 17x8.5 wheels (currently 225/45 square). This is a no-rub solution.

Also with the new hub carriers (and narrow hubs) one gains the ability to use a large variety of brake calipers. I went with the Performance calipers to match my fronts, but it can run anything a 335i can (e.g.: 335i=Ø44 mm calipers with Ø336 mm x 22 mm rotors vs. the stock 128i's Ø40 mm calipers and Ø300 mm x 20 mm rotors). Combined with 335i front calipers you'd have some pretty decent heat capacity on a tracked 128i.

Bonus points for heavier-duty hub carriers, axles (27mm vs. 24mm), and parking brakes.

Interesting. I thought the F30 335 brakes fit a 128i with zero modifications and I was set on buying them over the 135 brakes because of the piston cracking I've heard about. Is that not the case or is the hub only needed for E9X 335 brakes?

Axle stiffness would be a decent upgrade. Have you done diff bushings?

As far as tires, I kept reading the front is the limiter on a 245 square setup. I looked at it for autocross with some LTW-5 and it may require trimmer to have a perfect square setup but the rear is good to go. I'm running the Apex 1 series wheels with 235 in the front and 265 rear. Tons of grip for a 128 lmao.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by WDE82

Interesting. I thought the F30 335 brakes fit a 128i with zero modifications and I was set on buying them over the 135 brakes because of the piston cracking I've heard about. Is that not the case or is the hub only needed for E9X 335 brakes?

Axle stiffness would be a decent upgrade. Have you done diff bushings?

As far as tires, I kept reading the front is the limiter on a 245 square setup. I looked at it for autocross with some LTW-5 and it may require trimmer to have a perfect square setup but the rear is good to go. I'm running the Apex 1 series wheels with 235 in the front and 265 rear. Tons of grip for a 128 lmao.

TBH, I have the performance brakes more because they're pretty, especially against Le Mans Blue If piston cracking ever becomes an issue I'll get the Stoptech repair kit and move on. I'm also of the opinion that the E9X 335i front brakes are a fantastic budget option for a track focused 128i. I once wandered down that path but the calipers wouldn't fit in my stock 207M wheels.

AFAIK the F30 fronts fit just fine but as with the E9X generation, the rears are the issue. With the E8X/9X generation modding the rear is 100% plug and play, factory bolt-on, no compromise (in the "I didn't make 'Franken-brake' shoes or delete the handbrake all together" kind of way).

From the Apex fitment guide:

"Front & Rear: 17x8.5" ET40 with 235/40-17 tires
Available in ARC-8 design. only.
May require minimal front negative camber.
245/40-17 tires can fit, but will require approximately -1.5 degrees or more of front camber. Rear rolled fenders and/or rear negative camber may also be required."

This mod eliminates the rear fender roll. I have ~2.3 degrees of front camber ATM, but the wider tires won't come (probably) until my next iteration of the suspension which will most likely be Ohlins, a massaged rear subframe, and a few other tweeks.

I haven't and probably won't do the diff bushings

[chris_flies]

The F3x calipers bolt on perfectly up front, but won't work in the back because of the knuckle. WDE82 You need to swap to a 135i knuckle for them to work.

Suprgnat The diff bushings aren't worth the hassle, IMO. I did M3 ones, and they just made it noisier back there, especially with solid subframe bushings. No notable difference in how it drives.

I think I'll have to do the same hub swap that you've done once I spring for a much more aggressive wheel/tire combo. I'm planning on doing the N5tuner front fenders in the future, which allow a little more space for tire. 255's/265's square are my end goal for my car in terms of tire.

I'm still amazed how clean your car is underneath. The beauty of not being in the salt belt, I guess.

[Suprgnat]

Had some time over the last day or so to putter around the garage. I got the M3 rack installed (and nailed the steering wheel to rack alignment) but no tie rods yet and 95% of the E60 oil-to-water heat exchanger installation complete. The two mods go well together as it's much easier to get at the cooling hoses for the heat exchanger conversion when the rack is out.

I also got the CSF power steering cooler installed. It's not a perfect fit, but only required a little massaging of the plastic mounting shroud.

[crowtrobot]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

While everything else is apart.

Nice! Installed one of these myself a few months ago. Made a difference at the track; after a 20min session on a hot day, the car would start cutting my throttle. After installing this little cooler, I was able to run several 30+min sessions without issue. Was doing the water pump and oil pan gasket at the same time, so the install was pretty easy.

[andrey_gta]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

Love the progress on the car.
Been out of the 1addicts loop for a while, nice to see familiar 128i.

Is that an e46 koni? I need to use this idea as my rears are on their way out.
What Koni part number, share the link to any write up.

How did you cover any M3 rack parts/connectors that cant be connected.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by andrey_gta

Love the progress on the car.
Been out of the 1addicts loop for a while, nice to see familiar 128i.

Is that an e46 koni? I need to use this idea as my rears are on their way out.
What Koni part number, share the link to any write up.

How did you cover any M3 rack parts/connectors that cant be connected.

The rear Konis are from TC Kline, but I believe he sells the same P/N for the E46 and E36 as well. They're marked "8241 1200SP". You have the required ///M camber links or adapters?

The only unconnected part/connector is the connector for the Servotronic solenoid. I didn't cover it or anything.

[kaputt]

I'll love to hear how you like the M3 rack when you get some wheel time with it.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by kaputt

I'll love to hear how you like the M3 rack when you get some wheel time with it.

I love the feel. It reminds me of old school cars that were lightweight with manual steering and wide tires. Firm to turn at a dead stop, but once rolling, perfect. I can see how people that grew up with cars with power steering and one-finger u-turns might be turned off, but to me it's the way it should be. Just enough boost to be "assisted" and overcome the mass of the car but not "powered", if that makes any sense.

I made a lot of changes recently, well a few changes that were very significant. This rack, combined with the rear hub conversion, is a great combo. I have the M3 control arms up front which pokes the fronts out a bit, and with the hub conversion my track width is now about 1mm wider in the front. Steering is immediate, VERY neutral now, and the feedback is phenomenal. Also, in most driving situations I rarely have to turn the steering wheel past 90°

[kaputt]

That’s awesome to hear. This may have to go on my to-do list for down the road sometime.

How straight forward was the install? I wouldn’t plan to do it on my own, but I’m curious if a competent BMW performance shop could do it fairly easily?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by kaputt

That’s awesome to hear. This may have to go on my to-do list for down the road sometime.

How straight forward was the install? I wouldn’t plan to do it on my own, but I’m curious if a competent BMW performance shop could do it fairly easily?

It's a very easy install. As long as you're not doing the PS cooler too it should be under an hour, but I have no idea what the "book" time is for the job.

[andrey_gta]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

The rear Konis are from TC Kline, but I believe he sells the same P/N for the E46 and E36 as well. They're marked "8241 1200SP". You have the required ///M camber links or adapters?

The only unconnected part/connector is the connector for the Servotronic solenoid. I didn't cover it or anything.

i have the rear ///M camber arm just sitting collecting dust. My shocks some what rough after some 4-5 winters/salt and maybe are on they way out and I need a solution to use the M arm. Thought a new one showed up in the last 2 years.

Nice to know you don't need to cover the solenoid on M rack. I will do that with Motor mounts

[Suprgnat]

I picked this up to gain the oil temp gauge and started to play around. I like the way it's turned out so far. Because I prefer red indicator needles it's going to get the red needles/white LEDs treatment ala ///M without the baggage.