Window Regulator

[magiik]

Anyone have any experience replacing the window regulator in a E82?

I'm having problems getting the old regulator out. Specifically the T20 bolt that attaches the regulator shuttle to the glass. I can't get this sucker out, I've semi-damaged a T20 bit with excessive torque - twisting the tip of the bit about 30 degrees.

I've tried using some WD40 and letting it soak overnight, but that didn't seem to change anything.

Is this thing reverse threaded?

What are my options? Drill the bolt out and replace it? I'm afraid of damaging the glass.

Here's a picture of the bolt through the shuttle and the glass, you can see the tips of the T-head bolt on the back that the bolt screws into as well.


And another a bit further back to see it all:


Higher res @

View post on imgur.com

part breakdown @ http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=51&fg=10&hl=1

[magiik]

Update:

So I've tried soaking the thing in WD-40 and trying it - didn't work. I tried soaking it in PB blaster and vigorously tapping to try to work it in - also didn't work.

Last night I went to Harbor Freight and bought an impact wrench. Took it home and tried it on the bolt - it broke the tip of the T20 bit right off with ease.

Not sure what to do anymore... this thing is in there with some sort of godly amount of torque.

I think the last thing I'm going to try is to take a torch to it. The only problem I have with this is the 2nd shuttle's T20 is behind the track, with a small window cut in the track to access the bolt... It's going to be quite hard to torch that little guy through the little window without melting everything in the vicinity....

I just want my freaking window to work again... :'( This has taken up way too much of my time....

[magiik]

Update2:

Took it to an auto shop to get some help - I knew I wouldn't have the tools I would need to drill it out if it came to it.

Mechanic used an borescope/endoscope camera to look at the back ( the T-head bolt or Hook bolt ). He noticed it looked like it had an allen key hole for it. Tried a few allen keys and found one that fit. Had to torque it like crazy, but he got one off. Tried it on the 2nd one, it wouldn't budge. He got a break bar and tried again - it rounded the allen key on the back :'(. Tried to drill it - the bolt is too hard, he broke a bit. I had to leave to get back to work, but I left my car there - he said he was gonna try to use a "torch" - it's a high speed drill with a carbide bit that should be able to just melt through it.

But BEWARE E82 135i owners - looking at this regulator shuttle connection from the T20 torx side - IT IS REVERSE THREADED. But looking from the T-head/Hook bolt side it's normally threaded. The T20 torx key IS PART OF THE BOLT - you are just looking at it from the tip of bolt. The T20 torx key is also smaller than the allen key - so you might have better luck doing this from the side you can't see. Or possibly use both the allen key and the T20 torx at the same time?

So again I'd like to re-iterate since I have found absolutely no material regarding my vehicle and repairing the window regulator. If you use the T20 torx side to disconnect the regulator shuttle - IT IS REVERSE THREADED. If you use the allen key on the T-head/Hook bolt, IT IS NORMALLY THREADED.

I wish I had known this earlier - I may have accidentally tightened the last remaining connection on mine - causing me to have to drill it out...

[Dackelone]

Next time you might want to go to a dealer and ask one of the techs how the pros do it. That is why I like having friends at the dealer to help me in those times of "need".

You can always signup for a one day "user key" to BMW's TIS guide...

http://bmwtechinfo.com/


Dackel

[magiik]

I actually did call in to the BMW dealership and talked to the parts department that sold me the window regulator. I asked them if it was possible that this bolt was reverse threaded... they told me no.... Maybe I should have asked to talk to someone who was certified to work on a 135i....

I did not know about the TIS guide - I was actually looking for exactly this... that may have also helped me greatly...

But anyways, I'm leaving all these messages since I was unable to find any information regarding this DIY with any google-fu. And now when I'm searching for these same problems, I'm getting the top search result to this thread. So hopefully at least I relieve another 135i owner's headache when it comes to replacing replacing their window regulator.

Thanks for the info though. I wonder how much of that information I can download if I sign up for a one-day pass.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by magiik

Thanks for the info though. I wonder how much of that information I can download if I sign up for a one-day pass.

I found a nice step by step DIY on the German 1er forum.de (with pics!)


here is the original like...
http://www.bmw-syndikat.de/bmwsyndik...BMW_-_E36.html


and here it is translated with Google...
http://translate.googleusercontent.c...5ValPdSqoRTHgg


PS: you can also use Google.de and do a image search... use the German words: bmw e82 fenterheber (window regulator)

[magiik]

that DIY guide is for an E36. I had found guides on how to do the window regulators in all kinds of chassis, all the older ones definitely have a lot of DIYs, but the newer models it's much harder to find. That regulator looks completely different - looks like it functions through way of a two linear tracks coupled with angled brackets to a point that attaches to the window also coupled with a circular half gear that connects the motor to one of brackets. The movement of the circular gear moves the connected brackets and forces the shuttles on the track to move, which in turn cause the connected point to move up and down ( and not left to right ). The E82 regulator is more of what I'm used to - two shuttle tracks that directly attach to the window, and the shuttles are moved by way of steel cable looped in such a way that the shuttles move in the same direction ( a figure 8 loop ). And the motor just pulls the cable in either direction to move the window up or down.

I still can't find a specific DIY for an E82, the closest I found was an E90/E92, and they have it a bit easier because it's a simple 10mm nut ( IIRC ) to get the window detached from the regulator. My hardest part was knowing the correct way to remove the connections - which were far from intuitive.

The E82 135i has a "T-head bolt" or according to the BMW parts catalog a "Hook bolt". This thing is just one piece - it's a huge ( like 2 inch/5cm bolt head ) on the bolt side and has an allen key hole on that side - and the bolt side looks like a huge gear - but the threaded side has a T20 key on the very tip of it. I assumed it was a T20 bolt going through the regulator and through the T-head bolt, but I was incorrect - the T-head bolt is the only fastner, and it threads into the regulator.

So if you were looking into your door from the inside of the car with the panels removed, you would see the T20 side of the T-head bolt in the regulator threads. If you look carefully, you can see the head of the bolt behind the glass.

My incorrect assumption that the T20 was a separate screw/bolt lead me to believe that you would unscrew this bolt "normally" - e.g. counter clockwise while facing the T20. But this is wrong. The "front" of the bolt is the other side with the allen key. From that POV it turns counter-clockwise, and thus from the T20 POV it turns clockwise.

I still havn't finished the job, stupid job getting in the way . But maybe I'll try to snap some pics and write up a DIY here for other 1er's to look into if they ever have to replace them. I still have the broken regulator in the car, just the glass is finally disconnected from the shuttles. I plan on getting the new regulator in tonight when I get off work.

But I really do appreciate your responses, you're the only one so far to even take a stab at what the problem is.

[1911A145]

Mine broke last week... paid the dealer 500 for parts and labor and was done with it.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by magiik

But I really do appreciate your responses, you're the only one so far to even take a stab at what the problem is.

Shoot, I don't know how I missed that my link was for an e36. (I need to take a nap!) Sorry buddy. Yeah... it sucks when your car is broken. Sounds like you will have it fixed in no time.


Dack

[AKopp]

I'll do just about everything else on my car but I hate window work. On any car, really. All it does is fight. I'll pay the dealer. Hope you got your situation worked out.

[magiik]

I got it all fixed up last Friday, and I'll try to post some pics when I have time to. But really I covered the main issue you will run into on the E82 chassis - which is that T20 torx is not the way to remove the shuttle from the glass - use the allen key on the back of the "Hook/T-head Bolt"

But thanks guys. I ended up probably not truly saving anything, as time = money. But I'm the type of guy who likes working on my car. Nothing feels better than going out on a drive after cleaning all the grease off yourself. In the end you'll save money too - it's these DIYs that you have not done before that take the most time. Just doing your own oil changes, and brake/rotor changes will save you a bit of cash in the long run. AND you can put better stuff in there than stock and still save money.

Plus without doing this stuff on my own I'd never have the collection of tools I have now Just got myself a cheap impact wrench that I'm sure I will love later.

[Kreed]

Heres the method for this apparently.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=550636

[Judge]

Seems like this is a real hassle. My car is currently at the dealership getting the passenger-side window regulator replaced and on the first attempt the window exploded on the tech. Today is my fourth day with a loaner.

[RimasRS]

I saw on E90 post DYI which looked easy job. Because it is common on E90 for windows regulator(s) to brake

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Kreed

Heres the method for this apparently.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=550636

^^Thanks for posting that link.

[marfcus6510]

My mechanic reached around with channel lock pliers and was able to get it off without too much difficulty.

[135iNewb]

Thanks Magiik! My regulator just sh!t the bed, so it looks like ill be doing this myself, since my 1 is out of warranty. Glad I won't be cursing and busting my knuckles on this little f0cker!

Maybe I'll snap some pics and do a DIY thread.....but probably not! I'm way too impatient.

[Lucky1]

Exactly what type of allen key is is the right one to do the job here? I guess the ones I have don't have a long enough handle for leverage because although I thought I had one that fit it just didn't seem to be making any difference even though I was turning it as instructed here and feeling some resistance and give as I turned. Not sure I want to even try it again in case I thread the darn thing...

[romak47]

did this today cause my passenger door regulator broke at the cable . sucks. was actually pretty straight forward DIY. Thanks for the post. helped alot. took me around 1.5 hours to do this

[Captainrob]

Did the driver's side on a 09 135i. End of the cable had come off. It was not a bad job. Took a couple hours. Not too long to save about $350.

I have noticed that when closing the door and the window raises itself back up to tuck under the lip, it is not going fully in there (as compared to the other window) so it is making noise a bit on the hwy. I guess maybe there is a a bit of adjustment that can be attained when tightening the glass down so maybe I need to try and raise the glass up a bit and retighten it back in to hopefully raise the glass just the tad that it would need to tuck under the lip when it raises itself back up after closing. I doubt there is any way that it is from setting the limits wrong... Anyone have an issue or insight into this?

[Venoml2k]

This is the thread that brought me to this forum, so I figure that I should get my first post in here with a tip that might help some.
When you take off the little black plugs on the bottom of the door towards the rear, and the other one at the rear towards the bottom, you will notice that you can see the sprocket looking piece if you move the window about 2/3 to 3/4 way down. If you get a long 1/4 inch ratchet extension, you can use the back end to tighten it if your sprocket is loose giving play to the glass. I was trying to fix my passenger glass because it had play, and didn't go as high up as the driver side causing some wind noise. This allowed me to correct the problem without having to pull off the door panel and the rest of the stuff. Use a small light on the bottom hole when looking into the rear one. Hope this helps someone, and thank you guys for the pictures and description of what I would find in there.

[Gracywhatever]

My E82 135i drivers side (right, Aust.) broke and wound its way down by itself. Shouldn't have, but tried as you do to wind it back up and it made crunching noises.

Removed the door card / panel to find nothing strange (First time in a E82 door). Removed the motor and to find the cables in a mangled mess. Then after a bit of research I found that I probably made the mess when I tried to wind the window up..

I got a quote for a BMW replacement for the regulator $316 AU and $522 AU for a motor! Found a second hand regulator and motor for $165 which was savaged out by the wreckers breaking the T20 fasteners etc.. Then got quotes for installation from $110 AU (needed the car for 1 day from a smash repairs and $330 AU for pro window joint (need the car for 1/2 a day.

I with the help of a work mate decided to have a go ourselves knowing nothing about the install other than what little we could find on Youtube and 1addicts. Installed it this morning on our work shed and could not have gone better (tricky though) in one and a half hours or so. (door card already off)

After removing the door card which can be found on a couple of videos on Youtube. It will then be time to remove the glass. No videos on and E82/E88 removal of the glass. There was one who had removed the glass and fitted it on the floor to show you which was a bit helpful. As others have mentioned, the T20 bolts on the two fastening points cannot generally be removed from the inside of the door. Used multigrips from the outside side of the door and make sure you turn in a clockwise direction to loosen the two fasteners.
The triangle section inside the mirror needs removal and the inner door strip also needs to be removed. Be careful to work the strip from the front to the back and not bend it. Take note of the end at the top of the door which slots into the door and pops into three spots to lock it in. (I did not do this making it hard to re-install. Although we figured this out.)

We moved the window manually as my wire was broken and we could do so to about half way on the door and removed both of the fasteners from the window. The carefully removed the glass tilting from the back and up. Once removed we removed the old regulator from the car and placed the good parts from the old one (mounting points) which were savaged from the one bought from the wreckers. Be careful with the glass mount points and do not pull them back to hard as the plastic is brittle.

The good regulator and motor was then repositioned back into the door and fastened into place. 10mm nuts FYI. Three in the face of the door and two in the bottom back. There is also a holder in above the motor which needs to be removed and go back in.

We placed rags onto the inside door frame for re-installation of the glass as I just had ceramic tint put on! then carefully put the glass back in the reverse order of taking it out while my offsider guided the glass into the mounting points. We put the two glass retainer screws back in loosely using the T20 insert from the front so we could still maneuver the glass for adjustment. Reconnected the electric winder switch and followed the reset window procedure which someone on the forum nicely advised about. Move the window to the bottom and hold for 5 seconds (we did 6 or 7) and them moved it back to the top in small movements (not allowing the auto to engage). It was closed to right but had to adjust it with the door closed and open several times by moving the glass by hand. When we were happy we used multigrips to tighten the two fasteners fully. Counter clockwise to tighten.

We then re-installed the top weather strip which was tricky as did not pay enough attention when removed. Once back in properly the inner mirror section was placed back on and we checked the movement several times more ensuring the window was fully seated on the seal when the door was closed and moved the last 1/4 inches or so.

The door card / trim was re-fitted after checking all the 10mm nuts from the regulator were also tight.

Door is not back together and all is working sweet again. How long the second hand parts last is anybody's guess!! Might buy the genuine new one next time as I am sure there will probably be a next time.

We have never done this before. Two people with mechanical minds and no fear can get this job done with no problems so don't be afraid like I was.

I will do a video and upload to Youtube if it breaks again.

Good luck with giving this a go.