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      03-03-2015, 07:14 PM   #67
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IWhich Enkei's did you get?
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096234
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      05-24-2015, 05:18 PM   #68
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It's been a while since I've updated this thread, but that doesn't mean I haven't been working on my 1-series! I'll make a few posts to divide up the stuff I've been doing.

As you know, I got rid of the BBS LM replica wheels. I wanted to be able to fit more tire, so I found some APEX ARC8s. They're pretty hard to come by because they've been sold out for over a year, but I nabbed a set on Craigslist from across the country!

At the same time, I got an APEX 75mm stud conversion kit. Finally no messing around with lug bolts. I hate those things. Read my installation guide here.

Anthracite APEX ARC8 wheels
Front: 18x8.5" +45 with 235/40/18
Rear: 18x9.5" +62 with 265/35/18

I added a 5mm spacer in back and will probably try squeezing a 10mm back there instead pretty soon.



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      05-24-2015, 05:31 PM   #69
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A few weeks later, I started to hear a squeaking noise under the hood. Here is what I found:



Serpentine belt started shredding, so I started replacing stuff. Ordered a new belt and tensioner, along with oil filter housing gaskets (#1 & #2) because mine were leaking.

Oil filter gaskets going in... what a mess.



I put everything back together and assumed all was good. Wrong. About 50 miles later, the belt started shredding again. This time it started wrapping around the alternator pulley and burnt up the backside of the brand new tensioner pulleys.




Something was clearly causing the problem. Unsure where to start, I looked at the alternator because the belt wrapped around that specific pulley. The alternator pulley has a sprag clutch inside that allows it to spin one way, but not the other. This video shows how to test yours. After watching the video, I went out and tested mine. I carefully lodged a screwdriver into the fan to lock it from spinning:


Once the alternator was locked, I tried spinning the pulley by hand in either direction. It was seized and would not move. So, I assumed that was the problem. This time I ordered another new belt, tensioner, as well as an upper idler pulley, a lower idler pulley, an alternator pulley, and an alternator pulley removal tool.

All of the parts arrived and we installed everything for a second time. The new alternator pulley spun smoothly in one direction as it was supposed to. I thought everything went great and drove the car around for 2 days until the belt shredded AGAIN! This time the belt started tearing and worked itself off of the pulleys. I was shocked.



I went online and starting reading up on the repeating issue. I saw a lot of discussion about the power steering (PS) pump pulley coming into contact with the subframe. The pulley would hit the subframe and shred the belt or break the pulley. This was caused by worn motor mounts, allowing the motor to flex and sag when accelerating.

However, this issue only affected N54 cars produced up until 04/2008. Apparently BMW addressed the issue at that point. My car was built in 08/2008 so I didn’t think it was my issue, but I took a look anyways. While underneath the car, I noticed that this was NOT my issue. My PS pulley was NOT coming in contact with the subframe. But upon further inspection, this is what I noticed:



1 of my PS pump bolts was missing and the other 2 were loose! This is not on the pulley, but on the pump itself. After doing a little more research, a few others reported the same thing. Maybe it’s because the bolts are attached to the oil pan, become coated in oil, and eventually work themselves loose… I’m not sure.

Either way, I removed the 2 loose bolts and found another bolt that fit perfectly in the missing slot. I added a drop of thread-locker to each bolt and reinserted them. I couldn’t find the torque specs, but I torqued them down to 40 ft/lbs.

This time around the tensioner and all pulleys were still in good shape, so I just bought another belt (for the 3rd time). I installed the belt and everything has been running smooth for over 5,000 miles now.

Important Notes:
  • Check all pulleys the first time around! Make sure there is no play or movement in any of them. They should all spin freely.
  • If your N54 was produced before 04/2008, check to see if your PS pulley is coming in contact with your subframe. I’ve read that you can install 335is motor mounts (passenger side, driver side) to fix the problem. You can also notch the subframe.
  • If your belt has started to shred, pull over immediately! If the belt works its way around the crankshaft pulley, it can break through the front main seal and even work its way into the timing belt. Best case scenario: the main seal needs to be replaced (oil leak). Even worse, the main seal continues to leak and you run the motor dry. Much worse, the belt causes the motor to jump timing and self-implode. No one wants that, so be sure to check behind the crankshaft pulley for belt fragments. If the belt wrapped around the backside of the pulley, remove it and carefully inspect the front main seal.
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Last edited by suspenceful; 05-24-2015 at 05:56 PM..
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      05-24-2015, 05:56 PM   #70
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After adding my aggressive E85 flash last summer, the factory clutch started to slip. I decided it was time to upgrade so I could enjoy the car to it’s full potential this summer. I decided to go with the 335is/550i clutch upgrade on ECSTuning.

It feels fantastic. The clutch pedal is slightly stiffer, but retains an OEM feel. The gear changes are nice and smooth with the new Redline fluid. Everything grabs like it should and I’m very satisfied with the new setup! I have over 5,000 hard miles on the setup and haven't had a single issue.

-------------

Here is a little more information about the process:

This clutch comes factory in the F10 550i, which puts down 443 tq and weighs a whopping 4552 lbs. DINAN doesn’t offer a clutch upgrade for their different stages of 550i’s, so apparently they feel that it is adequate. Their Stage 3 550i puts down 580 tq and they kept the factory clutch. Also, someone on the forums is using this clutch and claims that it is holding at over 620wtq on aftermarket turbos. To me, it sounds like the clutch is severely underrated.

My 135i won’t see more than 500 tq anytime soon. I’d guess that it is currently around 420whp/465wtq, but only weighs 3300 lbs!

I decided to give it a try. Here is my parts list from ECSTuning:Total ECSTuning parts cost: $544.17

When replacing your clutch, I highly advise that you also replace the factory dual-mass flywheel (DMFW). The springs wear over time and will eventually let go. I chose to go with a lighter, single-mass flywheel (SMFW) from MFactory for $499.95 shipped. This brought my total parts cost to $1044.12, not bad.

Some pictures, from start to finish.




Still some life left on the friction disc, but some slipping spots with heat damage on the pressure plate. Everything else was ‘okay’. The new rear main seal was installed and the transmission was removed.





See those two bottles of Redline D4 ATF on the table? We drained the old fluid out and added about 1.5 quarts until it started overflowing. After that, the new clutch and flywheel were bolted on.




Lastly, everything goes back together in reverse order. Obviously I didn’t get pictures of everything during the install, but it all went together flawlessly. Big thanks to my buddy Kevin, who did an awesome job with the install. He took great care of the car!
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      05-24-2015, 06:35 PM   #71
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Next up, installing my Rieger diffuser and fxomar side splitters.



I bought the Rieger diffuser used and the carbon fiber hydrodip was fading. So, I sanded it down with some high-grit sandpaper and setup a ghetto booth in the shop’s bathroom. Plan was to prime it and then spray it with Plastidip.





I put a bunch of coats of Plastidip on and it looks great! The finish is a real nice matte black and it seems very durable. The diffuser didn’t come with any mesh, so I went to Home Depot and bought a roll of black gutter guard. It was really cheap, only like $2 or $3. Cut it to size and hot glued it to the back.



Once I installed the diffuser, the exhaust tips were sunk in behind the bumper. Since this is an aggressive diffuser, I had to get them extended. The tips were always a bit crooked, so this was a great excuse to get everything straightened out.

Here is a picture I took shortly after buying the car. You can see that the exhaust tips were melting the factory diffuser because they were pushed up against it.



And here are some photos I took after installing the Rieger diffuser. You can also see the side splitters that I installed at the same time.




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Last edited by suspenceful; 05-24-2015 at 07:02 PM..
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      05-24-2015, 06:38 PM   #72
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After all these mods, it was time to hit up the drag strip! I only got one video of a pass, but my best time was 12.9 @ 112mph with a 2.15 60ft on street tires. I was heat-soaking really bad and was only able to get 15psi out of the turbos. I guess that is what happens when you sit in the staging lanes for 20 minutes before each run. Next time I'll have an aftermarket intercooler and a more aggressive tune.

After the races, I went to the streets with a few friends of mine. One of them has a Pontiac G8 GT with intake, headers, exhaust, mild cam, and a tune. He was on drag radials with an LSD and automatic transmission putting out 12.2 time slips. I asked if he'd be down to run on the street because I knew I would have better IATs. I put about 2 or 3 car lengths on him from 60MPH to 130MPH. Then we did a 20MPH roll and were dead even up until about 100MPH. I know I have a 12 second car, it'll just take a bit to get there on the track.

Here is the only video I have from the track:
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Last edited by suspenceful; 05-24-2015 at 06:56 PM..
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      05-24-2015, 07:39 PM   #73
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Awesome update, love your car and your quality of pictures!
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      05-25-2015, 10:48 AM   #74
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Great looking 1er... those wheels are perfect for the e82. Love the pics too!
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      05-25-2015, 08:11 PM   #75
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Quote:
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Awesome update, love your car and your quality of pictures!
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Originally Posted by e90Nick View Post
Great looking 1er... those wheels are perfect for the e82. Love the pics too!
Thanks guys
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      06-06-2015, 02:18 AM   #76
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great wheel choice
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      06-09-2015, 10:29 PM   #77
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how do you like the single mass flywheel I'm am probably gonna do my clutch soon even tho it hasn't slipped at all I'm at 82k so fuk it thinking about flywheel
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      06-09-2015, 10:31 PM   #78
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Quote:
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great wheel choice
Thanks

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Originally Posted by mistawall View Post
how do you like the single mass flywheel I'm am probably gonna do my clutch soon even tho it hasn't slipped at all I'm at 82k so fuk it thinking about flywheel
There honestly isn't much of a difference... besides the chatter of course. It definitely makes noise. Other than that, nothing feels that much different. I just wanted the SMFW because they are just a better mechanical option than the DMFW.
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      06-09-2015, 11:13 PM   #79
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Quality build! Your car is gorgeous... I may be a weeee bit biased though
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      06-13-2015, 02:22 PM   #80
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Thanks



There honestly isn't much of a difference... besides the chatter of course. It definitely makes noise. Other than that, nothing feels that much different. I just wanted the SMFW because they are just a better mechanical option than the DMFW.
Mind recording the chatter for us? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same combo from MFactory and I'm worried it'll get a bit much as a daily driver.
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      06-14-2015, 01:07 PM   #81
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Quality build! Your car is gorgeous... I may be a weeee bit biased though
Thank you

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Mind recording the chatter for us? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same combo from MFactory and I'm worried it'll get a bit much as a daily driver.
Sure, give me a day or two and I'll have something for you.
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      06-14-2015, 06:06 PM   #82
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Quote:
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Mind recording the chatter for us? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same combo from MFactory and I'm worried it'll get a bit much as a daily driver.
I took a video today. The chatter gets worse with a higher load on the accessories. I started the video with no accessories on, then turned the headlights on, then turned the headlights and A/C on. Without anything on, the chatter isn't that bad or noticeable, but as you start to increase the load, the noise increases as well.

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      06-14-2015, 06:46 PM   #83
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Not sure if you saw my thread but the same thing happened to my power steering bolts except I only had one bolt! One was completely out and the other was completely snapped off. Looks like we both went through the same stages. I ended up going through 3 belts and ordered new pulleys 3 times because every time the belt shredded it would burn the back of the pulley.
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      06-14-2015, 07:06 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tglazed View Post
Not sure if you saw my thread but the same thing happened to my power steering bolts except I only had one bolt! One was completely out and the other was completely snapped off. Looks like we both went through the same stages. I ended up going through 3 belts and ordered new pulleys 3 times because every time the belt shredded it would burn the back of the pulley.
I think your thread might have been the one to make me double-check my PS pump bolts. Was a crappy situation, hopefully people with the same problems will read this in the future.
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      06-15-2015, 06:08 AM   #85
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awesome looking 1er.. bsm is best
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      08-31-2015, 01:57 PM   #86
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Where did you buy your rieger diffuser from? I've searched everywhere for one
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      08-31-2015, 02:05 PM   #87
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Quote:
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Where did you buy your rieger diffuser from? I've searched everywhere for one
I found a used one to buy. I believe you can buy one from www.esetuning.com. Just plug in the specs of your car and it will show you the available parts.
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      09-06-2015, 08:08 PM   #88
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Dig the write-up and blog
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