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02-20-2019, 07:14 PM | #1 |
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135i MHD flash failed => car wouldn't start => how it was fixed
Greetings all,
I bought a 2008 135i in December and after a very interesting baseline dyno test (it produced 250kW at the wheels; and I thought I'd bought a stock car), I wanted to install the MHD software so I could make use of the data logging package as the car was producing lean AFRs at low rpm. Summary: I tried to complete the MHD first write and it failed part way through. After this I couldn't flash back to stock using the backup I had created, and I couldn't flash to stage 0, and the car would crank but not start. Advice from MHD was that the ignition wasn't on properly for the initial flash (the fuel level should show on the display, which I have found only happens after pressing the start button twice after the key is inserted), and the backup was corrupt. I bought a better battery charger (25A), removed the backup from the phone and stage 0 flashed successfully. The car now starts and runs without fault (though I can't reliably scan for codes - more on that in Aftermath). The cause of this may have been a tired battery and a low capacity battery charger (according to other posts it should be capable of producing over 20A). I thought it might be helpful for others to write out what happened, and how it was rectified. Setup:
Sequence of events:
Advice from MHD: After this I wrote to Momir and Martial at MHD for advice with the description above. Momir wrote back to me with the following: 1. if the windshield wiper go on then ignition is not on properly (the fuel gauge must show the actual fuel level, key in, press start button) 2. your backup is not good (corrupted), please delete it from the MHD folder on your device (a backup is not needed, mhd has all stock files built in) After these steps just flash stage 0 and you should be good. I also called some Melbourne tuning shops for advice. Southern BM were the most helpful, advising that the battery needs to supply 13.5 volts to the DCM at all times during the charging process. Evolve Technik were happy to have a look at the car to help with resolution. Auto Racing Technik (who MHD list on their website as a partner) didn't answer the phone. Issue Resolution: I did exactly this - removed the backup from the phone and then flashed stage 0, and it worked - the car now starts and runs well. I have since had the battery replaced as the charger reported a fault saying it couldn't recover the battery back to 100% after being on charge for 3 days. Aftermath: I am still having trouble with loosing comms between the phone and the car when I initiate an activity (like starting a log or reading codes), and I will try a different android device and also a different OTG adaptor to see if there is any change. Not sure if the original lean afr issue has been solved or not as I haven't been able to log while driving due to these issues. The symptom is weird - the car is running and the MHD app says it connected (checked using the code scanning function). If I try to start a log or scan for codes the car will stumble (sounds like a misfire), and the MHD app will loose communication and try to connect again. The codes can't be read or the log doesn't begin. I'd appreciate advice on how to fix this. Learnings:
I would be interested in how others have got on with this. |
02-20-2019, 08:37 PM | #2 |
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This is why we use a power supply, not a charger, when doing programming.
A power supply supplies a constant voltage to the vehicle. A charger supplies a sine wave voltage that is truncated on the negative side. That means it has very short bursts of charging voltage, and off time. Have seen several computers bricked while programming using just a charger. |
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02-20-2019, 09:41 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
My CTEK 7002 has a supply mode:
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02-20-2019, 10:42 PM | #4 | |
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02-21-2019, 09:40 AM | #5 | ||
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https://www.amazon.com/Midtronics-PS.../dp/B002YKCQE2 We use something similar at BMW. |
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02-21-2019, 10:02 AM | #6 | ||
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https://www.deutronic.com/produkte/d...-computer-1ac/ When programming, it is normal to see the power supply putting out 25-30 amps. |
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02-23-2019, 07:08 AM | #7 | |
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02-23-2019, 08:12 AM | #8 | ||
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Unique Supply and Recond mode The Supply mode serves as a power supply unit that can run 12V equipment up to 7A. When changing a battery, important settings will therefore not be lost. The unique Recond mode restores the power capacity in a stratified battery, prolonging its life. The stratifying process starts after just a few deep discharges of the battery.
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02-25-2019, 10:22 PM | #9 | |
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02-26-2019, 05:25 AM | #10 | ||
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06-23-2019, 10:08 PM | #11 |
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Hi, I am from Hong Kong, I have did a lot of review before try to flash my car with MHD, and I finally decide to flash it today, but my flash didn’t went well and my car couldn’t turn on anymore, the following was the process of my flash, hope that you can help me.
First, I have my battery charger connected to my car, then I pug in the K+DCAN cable, it connect successfully, I purchases the flasher module and stage 1 map, then I go backup my ECU and start flash the map. Firstly it go well, but then it stuck at (15%, 31min left.). I wait for more than 1 hour but it still stuck at 15% and start raining (I don’t have a gauge at my home, I just do the flashing outside my house) so I have no choices and I unplug the cable, then I restart the phone and ofcause my car can’t start anymore. After my phone restarted, I try to flash my car back to stage 0, the MHD app go well and start flash back to stock, later on, it stuck at (89% 2min) left again, after half hours and it rains again... I have no Choice to unplug the cable again. Finally, the MHD app no longer connects to the ECU, I try with the same cable that I have used and it said no cable detected. That is all the process of my flash, and I have couple questions want to ask, hope that you can give me some help, thanks. 1:The MHD app no longer connects to my ecu(the same cable that I have used for flashing), is that mean my ECU go totally dead? Or only the problem of the cable? 2: Why will my flashing stuck during the process? The problem of the cable, phone or the battery? Have anyone got the same “stucking” problem before when you try to flash your car? |
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06-24-2019, 12:43 AM | #12 |
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Some cables just stop working sometimes.
Your battery voltage might be dropping to low. Dont worry nothing will be broken in ecu. Just charge battery long as you can, try again and if cable wont connect after lots of attempts get another cable. |
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06-24-2019, 06:37 AM | #13 | |
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1)Charge the battery before you intend on flashing, preferably the night before 2) Before you flash, disconnect the battery for 10-15mins, this enables the ecu to clear out its cache 3) If your fortunate to have another car at your disposal, use a set of booster cables and connect it up to your car, whilst the other car is left to idle ( Whatever you do, please just dont start your vehicle at any point in time with the cables connected, as you could fry your FRM) 4) Connect your battery charger in supply mode to the front of your vehicle ( I know this seems a bit overkill, considering you already have a vehicle connected to the rear battery ) 4) Ensure that your phone is fully charged and in aeroplane mode 5) Have just the ignition on the car On, and then commence with your Flash The Above process has never let me down and iv flashed my car and friends vehicles, multiple, multiple times Last edited by Boost3d_1M; 06-24-2019 at 06:49 AM.. |
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06-24-2019, 05:24 PM | #14 |
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Does your battery charger have a supply mode and does it output a constant 25 amps or more. If not, I’d suggest something like the Ctek mxs 25 charger.
Did you buy your cable from BimmerGeeks or Twisted Tuning. If not, buy one as they are guaranteed to work as opposed to the random chance you take with eBay cables. Make sure your phone is in FlightMode. Take a deep breath and go through it step by step. |
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dcm, mhd flasher, n54 |
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