DIY: Individual "M" Audio/Enhanced Premium Sound (Logic 7) Retrofit

[GtiGyver]

This thread was a godsend.
Thank you.

Just finished upgrading my 2008 E90 M3's Logic7 sound system to the Dirac individual audio system.
I can confirm that this works even if you don't have iDrive with one caviat. It seems I lost the ability to enable any kind of surround sound mode, I do have the choice of Music and Cinema modes on the OEM head unit but they have no effect.

Regardless of this, the sound seems better/fuller than the Logic7 system as far as I can tell. I only just tested it for 10 minutes.

Also, the OP is correct. The AMP worked with the original VO $677 just as well as $752. There were no audible differences or functional differences I was able to dicern.

[reisf]

Originally Posted by GtiGyver

This thread was a godsend.
Thank you.

Just finished upgrading my 2008 E90 M3's Logic7 sound system to the Dirac individual audio system.
I can confirm that this works even if you don't have iDrive with one caviat. It seems I lost the ability to enable any kind of surround sound mode, I do have the choice of Music and Cinema modes on the OEM head unit but they have no effect.

Regardless of this, the sound seems better/fuller than the Logic7 system as far as I can tell. I only just tested it for 10 minutes.

Also, the OP is correct. The AMP worked with the original VO $677 just as well as $752. There were no audible differences or functional differences I was able to dicern.

Happy to hear mate.

I just did the (almost) the same thing with my M2 converting shit Harmon Kardon (rebadged Hifi 676 option) to the Bang & Olufsen taken from an F13 M6 and it sounds incredible

[GtiGyver]

I found that between the L7 system and the Dirac system, the improvement is marginal, but what I was really hoping for didn't happen.
I was looking to improve in the mid-bass area which I found severely lacking on the L7. Seems the Dirac system does not resolve the issue (as I initially thought).
My guess is, the use of the small door speakers limits this frequency range from being reproducible.

I'm talking about the 100-250Hz range. Feels empty.
My 2003 GLI beater with Monsoon system sounds way better in that respect.

[VickyK]

Oh my this is such an excellent DIY reisf !Just found a used L7 amp, cant wait to try this guide. Before i attempt to scout for more parts, can anyone share a Trace file from CIC Nav Pro with Logic7 optioned? Just want to compare parameters when I code it with NCS. Thanks guys

[Kutfe]

Hello to all sound lovers
I installed all the speakers, crossovers and amplifier in my BMW E63 (CCC). How do I code the S752A option instead of the S677A and how do I code the amplifier (65127841379) for my E63? Maybe there is a step-by-step instruction?

[Hotter]

Nice guide, just retrofitted my Logic7 too!

Just one question about power supply to the amplifier - is it ok to power it from battery? Since it will be always "ON". If you power it from the glove compartment fuse box it will cut power after 30min when car goes to sleep. So I am wondering does it draw power if you power it from the battery like in your guide?

[cosmin49]

Hi everyone, I've recently retrofitted my e70 with top HiFi. Purchased the kit from a CCC x5 and mine is CIC. First I've noticed some problems with amp not working 100% correctly so bought a later model for CIC. Now all previous issues had ben sorted but noticed sound cut out and back in continously when at max volume. Anyone have a clue? Could it be the speakers to week for the amp? If I use the fader and cut out front no issues when playing rear only. When fader on front is cutting out but if only left OR right only not problem. Seems to be a power supply issue but not sure. I'm using 10AWG straight to battery. Thanks

[VickyK]

Thank you reisf for this awesome thread. I just completed retrofitting from Base to L7. Works like a charm. Only thing incomplete is the rear door setting. Could you please guide on how to run the cable from body and through the consealed door harness? Thanks mate!

[norar135]

This is a sort of unrelated question to the original thread (my apologies, but I'm new and can't post my own thread yet).
But, have you had to repair your door tweeter speaker? I just got the car a few weeks ago and noticed that the driver's side tweeter speaker has come loose from its seal. I don't know if I can just pop it back into place or if I can potentially damage it in some way.

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by Hotter

Nice guide, just retrofitted my Logic7 too!

Just one question about power supply to the amplifier - is it ok to power it from battery? Since it will be always "ON". If you power it from the glove compartment fuse box it will cut power after 30min when car goes to sleep. So I am wondering does it draw power if you power it from the battery like in your guide?

I refused to wire any connection straight to the battery, Look up your Junction Box diagram, there are some unfused connection that you can use for switched 12V. I feel safer doing that way.

[GtiGyver]

Originally Posted by VickyK

I refused to wire any connection straight to the battery, Look up your Junction Box diagram, there are some unfused connection that you can use for switched 12V. I feel safer doing that way.

100% agree. I did the same. Works perfectly

[scroller]

reisf Hello ,I had top HiFi f07 m verst amp from e92. But my car is E90 which diagram i should use from BMWTIS? I buy more staff because it has a difference in the rear shelf speakers. After all, I had 16 speakers right now.

Thank you if someone also helps me. I will appreciate it.

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by scroller

reisf Hello ,I had top HiFi f07 m verst amp from e92. But my car is E90 which diagram i should use from BMWTIS? I buy more staff because it has a difference in the rear shelf speakers. After all, I had 16 speakers right now.

Thank you if someone also helps me. I will appreciate it.

Both the diagram are inaccurate for E90 Individual speaker configuration.
You can to use the first diagram as base reference. But For front door speaker, center dash use the 2nd diagram because you have a crossover for the front door. 2nd diagram is for E92, not E90. They are not the same

E92 has speakers & tweeter on rear doors only whereas E90 has midrange on rear doors and midrange +tweeter on rear parcel shelf.
Note: You need to be able to route wiring into the rear doors if yours dont have any yet.

[JCMcDougall]

In your drawings is Pin 1 the feed to the CIC or the feed from the CIC?

[N54andS63TU]

Originally Posted by reisf

Ok cool really eager to know that one. BTW, you can power the amp through the 20 pin connector. When i sold my previous car i pulled this system out and now i just replaced it in my current car which had the factory Harmon Kardon - it's a direct replacement and you can power it through the same 20 pin connector.

And as far as i can tell, it's as good as i remember it being when i powered it through the large 2-pin blade connector. If anything it seems to have more kick, if that's even possible.

Good evening,

2008 135i I need your help I just replaced my Logic 7 amp with this individual amp, everything seemed direct replacement, 20 pin connector went right in and optical loop too.
Except I don't have that big 2 pin blade connector. No sound, what am I missing here?

[N54andS63TU]

Originally Posted by GtiGyver

This thread was a godsend.
Thank you.

Just finished upgrading my 2008 E90 M3's Logic7 sound system to the Dirac individual audio system.
I can confirm that this works even if you don't have iDrive with one caviat. It seems I lost the ability to enable any kind of surround sound mode, I do have the choice of Music and Cinema modes on the OEM head unit but they have no effect.

Regardless of this, the sound seems better/fuller than the Logic7 system as far as I can tell. I only just tested it for 10 minutes.

Also, the OP is correct. The AMP worked with the original VO $677 just as well as $752. There were no audible differences or functional differences I was able to dicern.

I just got the individual amp came off 2017 650i, my system is currently logic7 like yours, everything plugged right in, no sound. Did you have to do any additional wiring? Only plug my car is missing is the big 2 blade connector the amp has.

[N54andS63TU]

So I jumped the pin 1 and 2, amp turned on, no sound tho I have CCC HU 08 135i, factory coding logic 7 amp. Do I still need to code it?

[GtiGyver]

Originally Posted by N54andS63TU

So I jumped the pin 1 and 2, amp turned on, no sound tho I have CCC HU 08 135i, factory coding logic 7 amp. Do I still need to code it?

You should code it to make sure your radio communicates the proper EQ settings and DSP profiles to the AMP.

The DIRAC amp does not seem to support "Music" or "Movie" mode DSPs.
Only "Surround" on or off, which itself appears to be Dolby Pro Logic on or off.


One thing I don't understand on my setup is that the DIRAC system appears to be MUCH quieter than the L7 system I had previously.
There must be a setting in the CIC radio that is not set correctly.

[N54andS63TU]

Originally Posted by GtiGyver

You should code it to make sure your radio communicates the proper EQ settings and DSP profiles to the AMP.

The DIRAC amp does not seem to support "Music" or "Movie" mode DSPs.
Only "Surround" on or off, which itself appears to be Dolby Pro Logic on or off.


One thing I don't understand on my setup is that the DIRAC system appears to be MUCH quieter than the L7 system I had previously.
There must be a setting in the CIC radio that is not set correctly.

So I coded from 677 to 688 then to 752, with bimmergeeks app, still no sound maybe it doesn't work with CCC headunit? I used pin 10 and pin 20 to turn on the amp and amp turns on, am I missing something?

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by N54andS63TU

So I coded from 677 to 688 then to 752, with bimmergeeks app, still no sound maybe it doesn't work with CCC headunit? I used pin 10 and pin 20 to turn on the amp and amp turns on, am I missing something?

You have to add the VO, plus have to then code the headunit for the new changes. I'm not sure if the app can do that, but i know for sure software like NCSExpert can.

[scroller]

After so many weeks of working, I finally have working properly my amp.



It feels so good when you have done something from the first piece to the end and even coded it myself, the feeling is I can't describe how happy I'm



It takes me about 1 month to complete it. Tomorrow gonna fix my headlight . Can someone tell me why my fan is not working on the amp, that's the only issue I have listening to music for like 40 + min in the car and my fan is not working maybe it, 's because the amp is not hot enough or the temp is not hot, tomorrow I will gonna take it apart and first give me with 12V of battery to see is it working the fan or if it's not the first thing maybe I will gonna do will be to change the cables with new and new shoes for better contact. One more question, can you change the electric fan from a computer fan and can the fan be coded?

[N54andS63TU]

Hi guys, I'm back working on this again have sometimes this weekend. I have 2008 135i with CCC, factory logic 7 amp getting replaced with top hifi with dsp amplifier from 2017 bmw 650/m6, everything was plug and play except I had to jump pin 1 and 2 to get it powered on. Coded the vehicle from 677 to 677 then to 752, has no sound any ideas?