Ohlins Road and Track

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by micky 1m

hi all ,i have just had Ohlins r&t fitted to my 1m 100 miles ago asked the mechanic to set car up as Ohlins recommend, from stock my ride hight passenger front is now10mm higher drivers side is stock hight now, rear passenger is 10mm lower rear drivers is 5mm lower, ride hight has not settled/changed since install 4 days ago, is this normal and how long should I wait until I take back to mechanic to adjust, also when moving rear adjusters I cannot feel or hear any clicks how much does knob turn to get a click I am worried I will break it, hole has been cut in carpet at 12mm should it be made bigger, and one of the front springs has writing upside down is this a problem can springs go either way up, with thanks mods : Bmw performance seats, mtc motorsport charge pipe, brembo 380 bbk, akrapovic slip on with sound kit ,n55 mid pipe, f10 550i clutch Ohlins r&t

Ride height is a simple matter of adjusting the height on the coilovers.

Have you tried turning the rear adjusters both ways? I know for my Ohlins installation, I had to make a much larger hole in the carpet, and it wasn't in the same place as Ohlins suggested, since my installation instructions were meant for the 3-Series.

Springs are springs, it doesn't matter which way they're turned.

[micky 1m]

ok thanks , with the rear adjusters I am worried I am forcing them to much &will break them so maybe when I go back to the garage for them to adjust ride hight I will ask them why I cannot feel click ,it does not move easily but I have only moved it half a turn so maybe they should make hole bigger

[MechE]

I experienced almost zero settling after the first few miles. Your ride height should be consistent left to right. The front to back rake is somewhat dependent upon taste. I suggest you have the car corner balanced and aligned by a shop experienced with this type of suspension.

You should feel a click from the rear adjusters approximately every 15-20 degrees. That said, the click can be slightly "masked" by any rubbing of the adjuster on the side of the hole. Keep in mind the "click" is part of the adjuster assembly and is not built into the shock. The knob will definitely get tight at the limits of travel, both soft and hard, and the limits are built into the shock. As long as you aren't forcing the knob, I highly doubt you will break anything.

I doubt you can install the front springs upside down. The shapes of the top and bottom are different. That said, you should be able to see if the bottom of the spring has a machined flat surface that is resting on the lower spring seat. The part of the spring sitting on the lower seat should not be a round wire, it should be machined so that the wire gets thinner at the end, and the end should be in contact with the coil above it. If there is no machined flat, the spring may very well be upside down and it should be flipped over.

Good luck...

[scoopy]

Originally Posted by MechE

I experienced almost zero settling after the first few miles. Your ride height should be consistent left to right. The front to back rake is somewhat dependent upon taste. I suggest you have the car corner balanced and aligned by a shop experienced with this type of suspension.

You should feel a click from the rear adjusters approximately every 15-20 degrees. That said, the click can be slightly "masked" by any rubbing of the adjuster on the side of the hole. Keep in mind the "click" is part of the adjuster assembly and is not built into the shock. The knob will definitely get tight at the limits of travel, both soft and hard, and the limits are built into the shock. As long as you aren't forcing the knob, I highly doubt you will break anything.

I doubt you can install the front springs upside down. The shapes of the top and bottom are different. That said, you should be able to see if the bottom of the spring has a machined flat surface that is resting on the lower spring seat. The part of the spring sitting on the lower seat should not be a round wire, it should be machined so that the wire gets thinner at the end, and the end should be in contact with the coil above it. If there is no machined flat, the spring may very well be upside down and it should be flipped over.

Good luck...

I noticed that my left rear i cant somehow feel any click. But if i turn it counterclockwise i can feel that it stops then when i turn it clockwise theres no click. Right rear i can feel it clicks however if i turn it clockwise and counterclockwise it doesnt stop

[ayao]

Originally Posted by micky 1m

hi all ,i have just had Ohlins r&t fitted to my 1m 100 miles ago asked the mechanic to set car up as Ohlins recommend, from stock my ride hight passenger front is now10mm higher drivers side is stock hight now, rear passenger is 10mm lower rear drivers is 5mm lower, ride hight has not settled/changed since install 4 days ago, is this normal and how long should I wait until I take back to mechanic to adjust, also when moving rear adjusters I cannot feel or hear any clicks how much does knob turn to get a click I am worried I will break it, hole has been cut in carpet at 12mm should it be made bigger, and one of the front springs has writing upside down is this a problem can springs go either way up, with thanks mods : Bmw performance seats, mtc motorsport charge pipe, brembo 380 bbk, akrapovic slip on with sound kit ,n55 mid pipe, f10 550i clutch Ohlins r&t

Are you referring to the adjuster knob built into the shock or the optional adjuster knob extension?

[micky 1m]

I have jacked the car up at the front the springs are sitting on the flat part of the spring but with both springs the writing is upside down , I cannot see the top of the spring very well. the adjuster cable around 60mm long is the one that came with the kit ,the adjuster knob just sits above the side panel carpet with a 12mm hole for it to come through , maybe I should cut the hole 25mm wide

[ayao]

Originally Posted by micky 1m

I have jacked the car up at the front the springs are sitting on the flat part of the spring but with both springs the writing is upside down , I cannot see the top of the spring very well. the adjuster cable around 60mm long is the one that came with the kit ,the adjuster knob just sits above the side panel carpet with a 12mm hole for it to come through , maybe I should cut the hole 25mm wide

The clicks when you use the adjuster cables are subtle. I have also found that any time you use them you need to first press the knob/cable downwards towards the ground to make sure the cable and adapter is fully seated on the adjuster knob. I suspect that is why the adjuster extension feels like it just spinning. Seat it fully down and try again. The other alternative is that the cable adapter is not tightly bolted onto the cable (which is the problem I thought I had - but it ended up simply being me not realizing that there is some inherent vertical play in the cable adjuster.)

[CarJunkie]

Originally Posted by MechE

You should feel a click from the rear adjusters approximately every 15-20 degrees.

Each click is exactly 1/6th of a turn.

My rear click is also very subtle. The base of the adjuster (just under the plastic knob) is a hex and is visible with my hole position if i use one hand to push down on the trunkliner. Since I don't always feel the click as well, I watch the hex and turn the knob 1/6th turn at a time, and can easily see when each flat surface of the hex lines up to my line of sight. The combination of seeing that and feeling the click makes it much easier to count and make sure both sides end up where I want them.

Just past the final click is an obvious end of the adjustment range, and then I count back from there.

[micky 1m]

did you cut a bigger hole in the trunkliner than 12mm

[CarJunkie]

Originally Posted by micky 1m

did you cut a bigger hole in the trunkliner than 12mm

No, its about that size, but lower down than marked on the instructions.

[MechE]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

Each click is exactly 1/6th of a turn.

You are absolutely correct. It always felt like less than 60 degrees to me, but I was clearly mistaken.

[micky 1m]

thanks for photo , when I take car to mechanic I shalll mention this to him

[atl_1M]

Does anyone know if these camber plates will fit the Ohlins R&T for the 1M, or do I need the 1M specific camber plates?

https://hinzmotorsport.com/products/...ntrol%20camber

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by atl_1M

Does anyone know if these camber plates will fit the Ohlins R&T for the 1M, or do I need the 1M specific camber plates?

https://hinzmotorsport.com/products/...ntrol%20camber

I don't think any aftermarket suppliers produce a 1M specific plate. Ground control certainly doesn't. This will work, just make sure you select Ohlins as the brand of strut and stock spring inner diameter (ID). Unless you're running springs other than what came with the Ohlins kit; in which case you'd need to know the ID of your springs.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by atl_1M

Does anyone know if these camber plates will fit the Ohlins R&T for the 1M, or do I need the 1M specific camber plates?

https://hinzmotorsport.com/products/...ntrol%20camber

Vorshlag has plates for OE/Ohlins application.

https://www.hpashop.com/Vorshlag-E82...?categoryId=-1

[atl_1M]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

I don't think any aftermarket suppliers produce a 1M specific plate. Ground control certainly doesn't. This will work, just make sure you select Ohlins as the brand of strut and stock spring inner diameter (ID). Unless you're running springs other than what came with the Ohlins kit; in which case you'd need to know the ID of your springs.

Thanks for the response. Here's a 1M specific one from ground control on their site. Not sure if parts are identical to the M3 version or not. I was able to find the M3 version for cheaper so was hoping I could save some money but don't want to risk it unless certain it'll work.

https://groundcontrolstore.com/produ...88df&_ss=r

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by atl_1M

Thanks for the response. Here's a 1M specific one from ground control on their site. Not sure if parts are identical to the M3 version or not. I was able to find the M3 version for cheaper so was hoping I could save some money but don't want to risk it unless certain it'll work.

https://groundcontrolstore.com/produ...d5a488df&_ss=r

Order both, compare them, then return one after seeing they’re the same. Or call GC and ask if they’re actually different. BMW uses same top mount for both cars, but the e82 has a smaller strut tower, meaning less room to adjust… which is the only difference between the descriptions on their product pages.

[CarJunkie]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Vorshlag has plates for OE/Ohlins application.

https://www.hpashop.com/Vorshlag-E82...?categoryId=-1

I can vouch for these, and they are stout. They use a massive upper spherical bearing and a sealed rotational bearing. I have no noise at all after 30k miles and lots of track days despite at least 4 adjustments and being R&R'd 3 times.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

I can vouch for these, and they are stout. They use a massive upper spherical bearing and a sealed rotational bearing. I have no noise at all after 30k miles and lots of track days despite at least 4 adjustments and being R&R'd 3 times.

Largest top bearing in the business!

[atl_1M]

Does anyone know the difference between the Ohlins model BMZ MN01 and BMZMN01S1?

Also, wondering which might be the latest model number. I'm going to reach out to them directly tomorrow but figured I'd check here also.

Thanks

[atl_1M]

Originally Posted by atl_1M

Does anyone know the difference between the Ohlins model BMZ MN01 and BMZMN01S1?

Also, wondering which might be the latest model number. I'm going to reach out to them directly tomorrow but figured I'd check here also.

Thanks

Spoke to Ohlins and they said the parts are the same, just a change in nomenclature in the system.

They also suggested I don't need camber plates since I'm not going to track the car and will be using it mostly for just regular street use.

Anyone else running these without camber plates?

[HP Autosport]

Camber plates are optional. We never recommend camber plates on a street car unless it is absolutely necessary for the type of driving the enduser will be doing.