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      08-27-2020, 05:12 AM   #353
cometman
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Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
Spotify steering wheel controls work without apps and via Bluetooth without USB. You need combox and CIC I think it's 6FL ... You just can't see album art and can't select playlists without apps via USB
that is good news, i am happy with that, having control over spotify to change tracks, it would be annoying always picking up the phone to change tracks.

i will try to update the cic to C1A, is there a place where we can get firmware C1A without having to go to the dealer?

download it somewhere and update it using icom port?
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      08-27-2020, 06:24 AM   #354
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Originally Posted by cometman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
Spotify steering wheel controls work without apps and via Bluetooth without USB. You need combox and CIC I think it's 6FL ... You just can't see album art and can't select playlists without apps via USB
that is good news, i am happy with that, having control over spotify to change tracks, it would be annoying always picking up the phone to change tracks.

i will try to update the cic to C1A, is there a place where we can get firmware C1A without having to go to the dealer?

download it somewhere and update it using icom port?
you'll need winkfp; Google bimmergeeks standard tools . You'll also need an ICOM. There's instructions in "Petes toy with a licence plate" on how to update. Be careful, take your time and follow the instructions
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      09-23-2020, 05:15 AM   #355
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Hi vtl, I sent you a private message...

Cheers.
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      05-27-2021, 10:59 PM   #356
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Have not done too much the car over the last 12 months, but not long after Melbourne started to open up after lockdowns a bunch of guys were going to the track so I put a fresh set of AD08Rs on the car and took the 135i out to a track day at Winton in March:




This was a day organised by Evolve, which was definitely a really well run event. There was only 7 cars in my group which resulted in a lot of track running without traffic. This was the first time I had been to Winton since a large amount of chassis changes, such as the Apex wheels and KW competition coilovers. Was a fantastic day and great catching up with some of the guys.

Thoughts:
- No complaints about the handling, the car is setup for the road so the spring rates are a bit too soft for track driving, resulting in a bit of body roll in the corners. However this is to be expected and the car is at a point where its not struggling for grip and I can focus on the driving instead of fighting the understeer. The car feels fantastically balanced and drives really well on track. I was able to improve on my previous personal best and get a 1:39.58. This was actually a pretty poor lap vs some of the best sectors of the previous laps. All my best sectors of the day combined to 1:38.14 so with a bit more consistency I should hopefully be able to improve further next time.

- Ambient temperature was around 27 degrees for a lot of the day, the car would do only 3-4 laps until it hit coolant limp mode. I am overall quite disappointed with the CSF radiator and I am not certain if it was any upgrade at all, especially after speaking with some other local guys with the same radiator. As soon as it hit 120 degrees, the car would cut power and I would have to abort the lap, and do 1-2 cooldown laps until I could reattempt. This was hugely frustrating and really ruined a lot of good laps. This is a problem that probably not that easy to solve. I suspect my heater core is blocked and that definitely wouldn't help things. I have come across a PPK radiator for sale so will do that as a bandaid for now

- Charge pipe hose did come off towards the end of the day, the silicone hose I am using with the stock charge pipe is not quite the right bend angle and results in the hose under tension when it is tightened down. I am working on a custom lower charge pipe which will will solve this entirely.
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      05-27-2021, 11:32 PM   #357
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For a while I have been having trouble with the lower charge pipe on my car popping off under hard driving. The pipe would stay on and hold boost, but unless the hose was very carefully installed and degreased, it could work itself loose over time. Silicone is a popular material for hose, but it is very permeable to oil, which just made the problem worse. I believe part of the problem is with the CSF radiator which pushes everything back and results ina few key parts not fitting correctly.

A few solutions existed, one of the problems was that the 45 degree bend on the turbosmart hose I was using is a bit different from the stock rubber piece, which is probably closer to 60 degrees. I had a hard time finding a suitable hose, and would still require the hose to be cut to the right size. I have never been able to cut silicone cleanly, and I also noticed the lower charge pipe itself was rubbing on the fan. So I decided a custom lower charge pipe was probably the best solution which covered all the problems.

Probably the best material to make the pipe from would be aluminium, but with not much experience or confidence welding aluminium with my TIG welder, I opted with the stainless route. Stainless sanitary tubing is plentiful from Aliexpress and ebay, and you can even buy barbed tubing which is perfect for the charge pipe joins to silicone hoses.

One thing to watch out for with stainless is the chromium in stainless steel. Without argon gas shielding, the chromium is quite reactive and will oxidize and crystalize when when heated during welding, resulting in "sugaring" which will be lumps of crap that form which would form inside of the tubing welded. For a charge pipe this is probably not a big deal, but in this case I opted to back purge the pipe, filling it with argon so the back of the weld is shielded from oxygen.

The charge pipe was made from a bunch of 45 degree bends and a small bit of straight tubing. The pipe was welded without filler and just fusion welded with the TIG torch. Was happy with how it come out, a few spots that didn't come out perfect but got some decent experience and definitely improved towards the end.

The charge pipe now fits perfectly with lots of clearance to all the surrounding parts. I was able to use a short 2.5" silicone joiner that can be bought off the shelf should it need replacing (after a while the oily instake charge air oil permeates through and is just easier to replace). The silicone joiner now is not under tension on installation and is lined up squarely on the pipe beads, so should be a nice leak free setup.

Upon first test drive, the car already feels less jerky and responsive, given that there is no longer a slight boost leak.
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      05-28-2021, 04:40 AM   #358
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Originally Posted by vtl View Post
For a while I have been having trouble with the lower charge pipe on my car popping off under hard driving. The pipe would stay on and hold boost, but unless the hose was very carefully installed and degreased, it could work itself loose over time. Silicone is a popular material for hose, but it is very permeable to oil, which just made the problem worse. I believe part of the problem is with the CSF radiator which pushes everything back and results ina few key parts not fitting correctly.

A few solutions existed, one of the problems was that the 45 degree bend on the turbosmart hose I was using is a bit different from the stock rubber piece, which is probably closer to 60 degrees. I had a hard time finding a suitable hose, and would still require the hose to be cut to the right size. I have never been able to cut silicone cleanly, and I also noticed the lower charge pipe itself was rubbing on the fan. So I decided a custom lower charge pipe was probably the best solution which covered all the problems.

Probably the best material to make the pipe from would be aluminium, but with not much experience or confidence welding aluminium with my TIG welder, I opted with the stainless route. Stainless sanitary tubing is plentiful from Aliexpress and ebay, and you can even buy barbed tubing which is perfect for the charge pipe joins to silicone hoses.

One thing to watch out for with stainless is the chromium in stainless steel. Without argon gas shielding, the chromium is quite reactive and will oxidize and crystalize when when heated during welding, resulting in "sugaring" which will be lumps of crap that form which would form inside of the tubing welded. For a charge pipe this is probably not a big deal, but in this case I opted to back purge the pipe, filling it with argon so the back of the weld is shielded from oxygen.

The charge pipe was made from a bunch of 45 degree bends and a small bit of straight tubing. The pipe was welded without filler and just fusion welded with the TIG torch. Was happy with how it come out, a few spots that didn't come out perfect but got some decent experience and definitely improved towards the end.

The charge pipe now fits perfectly with lots of clearance to all the surrounding parts. I was able to use a short 2.5" silicone joiner that can be bought off the shelf should it need replacing (after a while the oily instake charge air oil permeates through and is just easier to replace). The silicone joiner now is not under tension on installation and is lined up squarely on the pipe beads, so should be a nice leak free setup.

Upon first test drive, the car already feels less jerky and responsive, given that there is no longer a slight boost leak.
Mate... if that's your first attempt at stainless TIG ...
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      11-18-2023, 07:32 PM   #359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Suspension mods:

Heres a link to my B12 kit install
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245723

The handling mods on the car really make the car more enjoyable to drive. Straightline performance is nice but driving the car on a twisty road or racetrack is what is really exciting to me.

Stock suspension setup is garbage on a stock 135i. Totally inadequate for the power and just gets worse as the suspension goes past 100k kms.

I did the mods in this order:

Nolathane Subframe bushings - Locked down the rear end

M3 front control arms + pulled alignment pins - Very expensive for what you get, I only achieved 1 degree of negative camber on both sides on stock suspension. Ultimately these arms are only good with lowered suspension and camber plates.

Yokohama AD08R - Much more comfortable, grip was amazing

Bilstein B12 prokit + Dinan camber plates - Much less body roll, stiffer but more comfortable due to better shocks. Handling felt a lot sharper

After all these mods the car was very capable and nice to drive. But still suffered from massive understeer at the limit, even when not going that fast. I suspect that the Macpherson strut suspension was to blame. It always felt like all front end grip would fall off a cliff after the car leans beyond a certain point.

According to the theory of Macpherson front strut suspension, the camber changes when the suspension is compressed, initially you will gain a little bit of camber and beyond a certain point you will LOSE camber!

M3 Front sway bar

Therefore the common mod is to do an M3 front sway bar to prevent the wheels from reaching that point and losing grip. Scored a great deal on an M3 front sway bar and made a massive difference in the way the car handles. I can say my theory was confirmed and it was a big improvement. At the limit there is much more grip, still has an understeer bias but you have to be going very fast to reach this point. Before the limit, there is a reduction in front end grip, probably 5-10% less grip I'd say. But the tradeoff is worth it.

Downside is that the car is definitely harsher over bumps. Its not much but definitely noticeable. The B12 prokit is already pretty stiff, but just about the stiffest you'd want before getting on your nerves. The front bar just nudges it towards being slightly too stiff for me. I am quite picky and would prefer a more compliant car though. Over uneven roads is the main issue, if the wheels hit the bump at the same time its not as bad but still noticeable. I may change out the bushings in the sway bar with softer ones or polyurethane ones (which would allow the bar to freely rotate). The M3 bushings are very hard rock solid rubber and would resist the twisting of the bar quite a bit on their own.

I was afraid the front end would feel too stiff compared to the rear and did feel a little bit of it when I first put it on. I have gotten used to it but still feel a stiffer rear bar would benefit and even things out a bit. Stock bar is 12mm, the 22.5mm M3 rear bar seems like overkill, I may try an E93 15mm rear bar instead. I feel the twichiness of the 1M may be due to the fact it is using the 22.5mm rear bar which might be a bit too stiff.
Did you find the sway bar bushings were glued to the sway bar? I went to replace the bushings on my 335xi lci and the bushings are glued to the bar! Everyone thought I was nuts. I bought a new bar on clearance from bmw it came with the bushings...again bonded to the bar! I've never seen that before.
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      01-11-2024, 11:47 AM   #360
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