New car coming got a couple questions on cleaning

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Chunner

First thing you do should be a wash and then a paint sealant. I use Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. That stuff is rock solid. Wait a day, then follow with a nice carnuba wax for that soft glow. Then apply a detailer spray. I use Meguiars Ultimate Quik Detailer. It has some technology in it that creates a high level of surface tension that really beads water real well. Wait till you see the results. I have been doing this same set up for years.

And microfiber for everything!

The Klasse Sealant is amazing, can be tough to work with sometimes though.

As for waxes, my favourite is Collinite's 845 Insulator Wax. Toughest stuff I have found.

[1mmaniac]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

I think he means cosmoline: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

Tnx, never heard of that.

[Autobotvu]

These were exact words my sa

"they have a product that they put on it at the port to get all of the cosmolene off of the car...then when it gets here we will do a complete detail on the vehicle...then there is a product called cila-jet that we can put on it that will keep the finish perfect for a long time..."

[Autobotvu]

I found this site to be pretty informative but I don't know if the products they use are the best http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-benz-sls-amg/

I am thinking of telling my sales person to not let them detail or anything and I will do everything myself.

Wash, Clay, wash, polish, seal, wax seems like the routine.

Now to find the best supplies I can get for my new baby !!

Cept I don't know if they take the film off or keep it if I told them, and
no clue how hard it is to remove. Should I tell them to take it off and just wash it or is it safer to do it myself?

[cheshirecat79]

Originally Posted by Autobotvu

I found this site to be pretty informative but I don't know if the products they use are the best http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-benz-sls-amg/

I am thinking of telling my sales person to not let them detail or anything and I will do everything myself.

Wash, Clay, wash, polish, seal, wax seems like the routine.

Now to find the best supplies I can get for my new baby !!

Cept I don't know if they take the film off or keep it if I told them, and
no clue how hard it is to remove. Should I tell them to take it off and just wash it or is it safer to do it myself?

Wash it yourself. Even if you don't clay, you'll do a better job than the kid in the back of the dealership.

Be sure to use some Iron-X as well as clay during the decontamination phase.

Detailedimage is an excellent site.

[Autobotvu]

Leatherique Prestine Clean or Pinnacle Leather Conditioner

and is a Air Blower that important to you guys?


I just bought these:

303 High Tech Fabric Guard 32oz
Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection 16 Oz.
The Klasse Kit
32oz. Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
4 of The Grit Guard Insert - Black
303 Aerospace Protectant 32oz
einszett 914806 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz
Gilmour 95QGFMR Foamaster II Cleaning Sprayer
Stoner 92164 Invisible Glass for Window, Windshield and Mirror Cleaner - 22 oz.
2 DI Accessories Ultra Fine Clay Bar - 100 g
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash - 16 oz

That was a fast 300 bucks lol

Need High quality carnauba Wax,Buckets,Towels, and debating on Metro Vac & Go


2 of Blackfire 5 Gallon Professional Wash Bucket with Grit Guard
Plastic Bucket (5 gallon)
EZ Detail Brush Mini
EZ Detail Brush
The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra
Get Big Daddy's Microfiber Towels (3pk).
Chemical Guys WAC_808_16 Hybrid V7 Optical Select-High Gloss Spray Sealant and Detailer - 16 oz.
Adam's Great White Drying Towel (1)
1 P21S Total Auto Wash - 1000 ml Kit (orange box)
1 Dodo Juice Born to be Mild Shampoo - 250 ml
2 DI Accessories Sheepskin Wash Mitt without thumb
1 DI Microfiber Great White Towel - 16" x 24

Ack somehow I ended up spending 500 lol only thing I need now is wax.

I can Sealant and wax after right?
Gosh I hope I don't mar my car I am going to be sad

[cheshirecat79]

You'll most likely end up with some marring after the claybar. That' just the nature of the beast.

Again, I'd strongly suggest some Iron-X to remove the metal particles that are sure to be embedded in the paint.

The blower is nice to have but it's not necessary.

You can use a sealant and wax when you're done decontaminating the paint, but you're going to want to polish our those scratches caused by the claying process.

I personally recommend Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant along with some Pete's 53 Wax. If you really want to protect the paint once you get it perfect, you can use some Opti-Coat 2.0 after paint correction and before sealing/waxing.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by cheshirecat79

You'll most likely end up with some marring after the claybar. That' just the nature of the beast.

I got some scratches after claying... And I'm pretty pissed about it.

[cheshirecat79]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

I got some scratches after claying... And I'm pretty pissed about it.

That's pretty standard. Some contaminant removal products maar more than others. Basically, when they lift the contaminants out of the paint, it's very common for the contaminant to move across the top of the paint along with the clay.

Always count on a light polish after a clay, especially if the paint is pretty contaminated. You should be able to feel the contaminants in the paint with a latex glove as you move it across the wet surface.

You can always just use some sealant or wax with fillers that will fill in the maaring, but that's not a fix, as I'm sure you know.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by cheshirecat79

That's pretty standard. Some contaminant removal products maar more than others. Basically, when they lift the contaminants out of the paint, it's very common for the contaminant to move across the top of the paint along with the clay.

Always count on a light polish after a clay, especially if the paint is pretty contaminated. You should be able to feel the contaminants in the paint with a latex glove as you move it across the wet surface.

You can always just use some sealant or wax with fillers that will fill in the maaring, but that's not a fix, as I'm sure you know.

I used some swirl remover on those scratched areas and it helped some, but I can still see the scratches at certain angles.

Fortunately, since my car is Alpine White the scratches are near-invisible... But I know they're there.

[1mmaniac]

Originally Posted by cheshirecat79

Be sure to use some Iron-X as well as clay during the decontamination phase.

Brand spanking new bimmer (delivered 2 weeks ago)

Originally Posted by cheshirecat79

That's pretty standard.

I don't agree with that, scratches shouldn't be standard. Marring could be considered standard but that depends on the clay and lubricant used. Clay comes in different grades regarding hardness/aggressiveness.

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

I used some swirl remover on those scratched areas and it helped some, but I can still see the scratches at certain angles.

Fortunately, since my car is Alpine White the scratches are near-invisible... But I know they're there.

Swirl remover; sounds like a product name. I that a light, medium or heavy compound?

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by 1mmaniac

Swirl remover; sounds like a product name. I that a light, medium or heavy compound?

It's a Meguiar's product... According to the scale on the container, it's a 3, with 10 being a heavy cut.

[cheshirecat79]

Originally Posted by 1mmaniac

I don't agree with that, scratches shouldn't be standard. Marring could be considered standard but that depends on the clay and lubricant used. Clay comes in different grades regarding hardness/aggressiveness.

"Scratches" is a subjective term- I would not expect anything other than very light maaring from the claying process. Anything deeper than a surface swirl would point to the car not being prepped correctly prior to the claying.

[02rsxpilot]

Just want to point out that using a sealant and a wax is redundant. They are both paint protectors, the only difference is how they look when you're done and how long they last. Sealant is less work but doesn't have the same warm, deep glow that wax does.

Also note that some manufacturers label sealants as waxes to avoid confusing the consumer when they think they want a wax. NXT Tech Wax (which I actually use and like) is really a sealant. Meguiar's often uses blended waxes that combine both carnauba and synthetics.

Personally, I'd run with the Meguiar's five step method:
Step 1: Washing
Step 2: Surface Prep
Step 3: Polishing
Step 4 Protecting - This is the step where you would apply either a car wax or a paint sealant
Step 5 Maintaining

Sources: Meguiar's online, autogeek, personal experience

[1mmaniac]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

It's a Meguiar's product... According to the scale on the container, it's a 3, with 10 being a heavy cut.

Did you already try polishing with a heavier compound? You can also drive down to a local detailer or body shop and ask their opinion.

Originally Posted by cheshirecat79

"Scratches" is a subjective term- I would not expect anything other than very light maaring from the claying process. Anything deeper than a surface swirl would point to the car not being prepped correctly prior to the claying.

I agree and should be relatively easy corrected.

Originally Posted by 02rsxpilot

Also note that some manufacturers label sealants as waxes to avoid confusing the consumer when they think they want a wax. NXT Tech Wax (which I actually use and like) is really a sealant. Meguiar's often uses blended waxes that combine both carnauba and synthetics.

It's a shame they do that. I don't know about the present Meg line but a few years back Meg used the 'polish' term the other way around from most other known brands.

- a Meg polish was nourishing to the paint and was not abrasive
- other brands polish are abrasive and actually used for polishing. Nourishing products are glazes

[Autobotvu]

I pretty much have a plan in mind except polishing need to read up on that is there a big difference in waxing by hand and machine besides more product use?

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by 1mmaniac

Did you already try polishing with a heavier compound?

Nah, I didn't have anything more abrasive, so I just went ahead and put on a coat of Powerlock.

I'll re-address the scratches the next time I need to apply Powerlock.

[1mmaniac]

Originally Posted by Autobotvu

I pretty much have a plan in mind except polishing need to read up on that is there a big difference in waxing by hand and machine besides more product use?

It takes less time and effort when using a machine.

[Autobotvu]

are polishers buffers as well. I was thinking getting Makita-9227C-7-Inch-Electronic-Polisher.
I assume I need to buy extra hook and loop or bonnet for waxing?

I am a little confused. I dunno how much marring or scratches I will have on first detail so I am looking to get something to polish and wax.

I was going to do it by hand, but I dunno the difficulty level I will most probably follow this guide http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-benz-sls-amg/ as much as possible.

[Autobotvu]

I decided to go with basic porter cable 7424 now im still debating on which polish and carnauba wax to get and which air blower. Spending more than i thought i would on detailing stuff haha almost 1 k

[chris82]

First off, don't let the dealer detail your car. They will put scratches in it. You've spent a lot already on supplies, you can do everything they are going to do but better and with wayyy more care.

Also, don't take it to a detailer, unless you are incompetent in your abilities (no reason to be), or you don't have the time. Once again, I just can't bring myself to trust them to put the time into it to get a perfect result

I would do the following:
1. Wash and dry the car:
-Use a 2 bucket method: 1 with soap, 1 with water, a wool mit, grit guard
-Use lots of suds too!

2. Feel the paint to seel if it needs claying: wear a latex glove to feel for contaminants, it may not need to be clayed

3. Wash and dry the car again (if you decided to clay it) using the same process as the first wash.

4. Put a glaze on the car (helps sealant stick better)
5. Put sealant on the car after the glaze. the sealant needs 24 hours to settle
6. you can put some sort of wax on after like Meguiars quick wax

Steps 4 & 5 I would do with a buffer (with a non-cutting pad of course), makes the process much faster
Pad like this: http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...Pad-P60/65-S1/

This is the process I learned to use. The sealant is quite amazing, the car just doesn't get dirty nearly as fast, and you are completely protecting the paint. I use Blackfire Wet Diamond paint protection.

Detailed Image is a great site. I used their guides to do a 2 stage buffer on my car to get swirls and scratches out; came out perfectly! First time I ever used a buffer (was a 7424). They provided all the information necessary to get the job done properly! Highly reccomended!

Good luck!

[Autobotvu]

Thanks for the info yah i asked them not to detail my car but they said "Hey Vu, I can't stop what they do at the port because it is part of the pre-shipping inspection...but as for the actual Detail we do on the car I will for sure. Get excited, not much longer now" so i dont know what their doing at the port