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11-24-2018, 11:50 PM | #1 |
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Starting issues
BMW N54 135i AT
Ton of mods done 161k miles June 2017 144k miles alternator replaced Jan 2018 150k battery & starter replaced Car runs really strong, feels great. About 1 month ago came outside in the am & my car would not start. Jumped it and off to work. About 3 miles down the road I stopped at the traffic light and my car shut off. Pushed the start button and it cranked back up & off to work. This Wed I left for work and my car would not start. Jumped it and drove a few blocks and it died at the 1st traffic light. Someone jumped me and I drove a few more blocks and it died again. Got it jumped again & went home to get my other car. On Thursday I went to o’Reillys and the battery, starter and alternator all tested good. No problems. Drove it back home. Thursday night I was taking my car to my mechanic and it started fine left the neighborhood headed up a hill and my car died. Could not get it jumped. Tried several times. Let the car coast back into my neighborhood. Friday had my car towed to my mechanic. Please advise what could possibly be the problem? No lights or any weird behavior or codes. Thanks, b |
11-25-2018, 10:06 AM | #4 |
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How did you test the starter considering how difficult it is to get to? Are you saying the starter turns the motor over but won't start? Then I can understand that. I'm having an issue where my starter is slow on the wifes e91 and I'm suspect of the major ground strap that's located lower part on the block and in front of the drivers side firewall. You can see it looking down into the engine bay. See if that looks damaged or corroded. If you're not getting any codes off of an ODB II reader, hard to diagnose...
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11-25-2018, 10:19 AM | #5 |
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If it starts with a jump then it's not the starter, it's losing power somewhere else
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"Tobias" 2013 135i ///M-Sport 6MT • Pure Stage 1 • XDI 35 HPFP • 404whp/440wtq |
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11-25-2018, 11:51 AM | #6 |
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O’Reillys Hooked their computer up to the battery & gave me the facts. Could it be the crank position sensor, IBS, fuel pump? I’m not that smart when it comes to cars however I do have a quick car. The car definitely wants to turn over but it doesn’t. My concerns are my mechanic will not be able to find any problems since it does start sometimes.
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11-25-2018, 02:20 PM | #9 |
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OP... you really need a scan tool that can read the BMW specific codes... and not just general OBDII codes that most scanners read. Something like ISTA or BMW Carly is what you need. All we can do is guess what your car's problem is.
Since you say your engine shuts off or stalls while coming to a stop.... I was thinking vacuum leak right away. Charge pipe or vacuum hoses, or even an oil cap that's not on fully. ? When you replaced the car battery last year did you have it coded to your car and have the values for the IBS reset to new? Did you ever have the battery cable recall done by BMW NA ? Here are some other tips about IBS. I would look at your negative cable real close for corrosion at the battery post and where it attaches to the chassis. Use a VOM and measure ACvolts from one NEG battery post to the chassis ground - while starting the engine under load. Anything more than 1 ACvolt is too much. When you had your car "jumped" did you do so at the car battery or up front under the hood ? Dack
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11-25-2018, 06:47 PM | #10 |
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I have a Foxwell NT520 Pro however my car never threw any codes, it just will not crank. BMW replaces the starter & battery so I would have to believe that they coded the battery. If the battery cable recall was done it would of been done before I owned it. I jumped the car every time from the battery in the truck.
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11-25-2018, 07:29 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
https://www.bmwusa.com/safety-and-emission-recalls.html
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11-26-2018, 04:14 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
So... you engine does not crank at all, right? Even when being jumped - at the battery in the trunk ? Did you try putting one jumper cable on the positive "jump point" under the hood and the other end to the positive post on the battery>? (like in that video I posted) Does it crank now ???
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11-27-2018, 06:39 PM | #15 |
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Mechanic replaced my Crank sensor and cleaned my valves. With this cold weather my car ran strong as hell as it should.
Thanks all for the advice |
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11-28-2018, 03:36 PM | #16 |
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I clearly spoke too soon. Left for work this am and it wouldn’t start. Came back inside for a few minutes and went back outside and it cranked up. I let it idle for a minute or so then left for work. Got to the bottom of the hill in my neighborhood came to a stop and the car died. Tried to get it to start for a few minutes with no luck. Called a tow truck walked home to get my P-car and came back and tried to start it again. Then the car started. Waited for the tow truck. Car has been w/ my mechanic all day and starts every time. What am I and my mechanic missing on a CRANK NO START scenario.
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11-29-2018, 05:30 AM | #17 |
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Here is a thread on the issue. Have you checked the connector to the front jump point?
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1472051
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2011 135i w/ DCT | ZSP Sport Pkg | PPK | Ohlins R
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11-29-2018, 02:07 PM | #18 |
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My mechanic was not able to get it to start today. When he hooked up his computer this is what he got.
Secondary controller IMMOB/ front elec/ body/ junct box What do you think this means. |
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11-29-2018, 03:20 PM | #19 |
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Was there a code number associated with that code?
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2011 135i w/ DCT | ZSP Sport Pkg | PPK | Ohlins R
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12-21-2018, 04:37 PM | #21 |
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I had the car moved to a different shop. This shop has the BMW Software and they replaced the cast module however it still has the same issue of crank no start. Any other suggestions? My car has been down almost 1 month.
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