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      04-04-2016, 09:53 AM   #23
E82MSport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hokejka View Post
20 hours later... clutch is in. car drives better than ever. I will do a write up with pics tomorrow!
Nice work!
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      04-04-2016, 10:42 PM   #24
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clutch replacement in driveway

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Originally Posted by E82MSport View Post
Nice work!
Thanks Ty
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      04-04-2016, 10:44 PM   #25
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Updated Original post with some details. Good luck. If any more questions ask away
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      04-04-2016, 11:55 PM   #26
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Good work mate! How does the new clutch feel?
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      04-05-2016, 11:55 AM   #27
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cool thread. I haven't checked this forum in a couple months so I'm a bit late to the party, but....

A 2nd person is not necessary for this job - regarding the flywheel bolts - just cut a piece of 2x4 of appropriate length and wedge it between the concrete and the flywheel teeth at a good counter-angle to the direction you're cranking the flywheel bolts. Using a 2x4 will ensure that the teeth on your flywheel don't break.

+1 for anal retentiveness. I was the same way, and even worse when I installed my Pure stg2. Triple/quadruple check everything. I took probably 15-17 hours to do my clutch as well because the last thing you want to do is go back in when you've already put everything back together. After all, you aren't some dealer that guarantees their work and foots the bill for you if they screw it up. This is YOUR time at stake
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      04-05-2016, 01:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Good work mate! How does the new clutch feel?
Forgot an actual review of the clutch flywheel. I will do that right now on original post.


____________



so far 30 miles on it... I'm actually trying to drive a lot lol. its funny how when you want to stack miles they don't come.
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      04-05-2016, 01:53 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_love_cars View Post
cool thread. I haven't checked this forum in a couple months so I'm a bit late to the party, but....

A 2nd person is not necessary for this job - regarding the flywheel bolts - just cut a piece of 2x4 of appropriate length and wedge it between the concrete and the flywheel teeth at a good counter-angle to the direction you're cranking the flywheel bolts. Using a 2x4 will ensure that the teeth on your flywheel don't break.

+1 for anal retentiveness. I was the same way, and even worse when I installed my Pure stg2. Triple/quadruple check everything. I took probably 15-17 hours to do my clutch as well because the last thing you want to do is go back in when you've already put everything back together. After all, you aren't some dealer that guarantees their work and foots the bill for you if they screw it up. This is YOUR time at stake
Thats a second way to do the flywheel. I thought grabbing the actual crank was best.

You are right a second person is Not required but its extremely valuable. Just balancing the clutch on the jack while u drop it and guiding tools such as the long extensions and overall just saving time is very valuable.
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      04-05-2016, 02:05 PM   #30
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OP updated with clutch/flywheel review
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      04-07-2016, 01:25 PM   #31
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At 70 miles in breaking. Clutch still feels just a tad bump in stiffness level of stock but better linear engagement.

Break-in procedure for anyone interested:

Im currently doing the 500 mile (no highway breaking)
Keeping it under 1/4 throttle. no more than 3-4 lbs boost under acceleration.
Letting off pedal very slow and downshifting almost every gear. Sometimes taking the car for 30 minute sessions of laps around the neighborhood.
If I'm on a fast road going 50+ then I just shift between 3-4-5 and backward constantly. Slow release on downshifts with engine breaking.

This worked fantastic on my last car with a clutch masters clutch that resembles the spec almost exactly..

Any other tips, please share.
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      04-07-2016, 01:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hokejka View Post
At 70 miles in breaking. Clutch still feels just a tad bump in stiffness level of stock but better linear engagement.

Break-in procedure for anyone interested:

Im currently doing the 500 mile (no highway breaking)
Keeping it under 1/4 throttle. no more than 3-4 lbs boost under acceleration.
Letting off pedal very slow and downshifting almost every gear. Sometimes taking the car for 30 minute sessions of laps around the neighborhood.
If I'm on a fast road going 50+ then I just shift between 3-4-5 and backward constantly. Slow release on downshifts with engine breaking.

This worked fantastic on my last car with a clutch masters clutch that resembles the spec almost exactly..

Any other tips, please share.
That sounds horrible doing that for 2 tanks of gas. haha. Thanks for the continued info. This will be helpful later this year when I do mine.
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      04-07-2016, 06:14 PM   #33
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The peace of mind alone is worth the cost haha.
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      04-11-2016, 10:59 AM   #34
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160 miles in: no change noticed.

I forgot to add that the engagement point of clutch is not only more linear I feel that it has moved more towards the center of the pedal travel. Before it was slightly more near the floor. I like it centered... perhaps that is why it feel more linear.
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      04-14-2016, 10:19 AM   #35
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220 miles in: disk is feeling a little grabbier.

I have taken the babying off and just drive normal. Of course no drops, heavy throttle, etc. just not the slowest guy off the light anymore.
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      04-19-2016, 12:44 AM   #36
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400 miles. feels great. no changes. havent felt anything get much grabier since. no smells that others have said they had. i drive normal but with nonstop upshift downshift over and over whenever i am headed straight. in these last 100 miles i will slowly give more and more throttle until its wot at 8psi. in exactly 100miles i will then up boost to 19lbs and slowly try some starts.
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      04-26-2016, 01:33 PM   #37
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I have put on over 100 miles since break in. I raised the idle to 950 and at the same time started driving the car harder. Not sure which one it was but the noise/chatter went away. I would say it was the idle raise but before I would sometime hear chatter to about 2k-2.5k rpm. Now just the smallest hint of chatter with the AC on. Extremely happy. Have raised the boost back to normal. Tried only one launch so far. Everything work perfect. Thank you Mfactory/ spec
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      05-01-2016, 07:21 AM   #38
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Haha mine sounds like a deisel with how bad the chatter is
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      05-26-2016, 11:38 AM   #39
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Clutch has been working perfectly. It has increased grabbiness over the pat 1000 miles
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      02-23-2017, 11:31 AM   #40
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solid hub still good? I just had the same freak out you did.
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      03-13-2017, 11:05 AM   #41
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Yup zero issues. Very happy with everything. Good luck!
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      03-30-2017, 03:48 PM   #42
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20 hours! Oh man you are one brave guy. Good on you lol
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      03-30-2017, 09:54 PM   #43
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I'm about to do this very job. Going to stick with DMFW though and have got a 550i clutch. I need to order a centering tool and the flywheel. I was hoping not to need the flywheel, but from what everyone tells me, if my clutch has slipped- which it has, but not too much as I've been fairly careful, then I will need a new flywheel 100%.

The only thing I'm not sure about on the review is using the front crank pulley bolt to hold the crank whilst loosening the flywheel bolts. Isn't that the one that if it comes loose, you end up losing your cam timing? Sounds absolutely ridiculous if that is the case, but from what I've read previously, it certainly looks that way. Why would BMW not key the shaft?
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      04-04-2017, 09:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedychuck2 View Post
I'm about to do this very job. Going to stick with DMFW though and have got a 550i clutch. I need to order a centering tool and the flywheel. I was hoping not to need the flywheel, but from what everyone tells me, if my clutch has slipped- which it has, but not too much as I've been fairly careful, then I will need a new flywheel 100%.

The only thing I'm not sure about on the review is using the front crank pulley bolt to hold the crank whilst loosening the flywheel bolts. Isn't that the one that if it comes loose, you end up losing your cam timing? Sounds absolutely ridiculous if that is the case, but from what I've read previously, it certainly looks that way. Why would BMW not key the shaft?

Youll loose your timing if you take it apart and not mark it. Not a chance this will happen. No worries, this is the most secure/free way to do it as its direct. You could also get a premade block the locks the flywheel...unneccessarry imo.
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