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      02-28-2017, 06:09 PM   #111
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http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1148814

I have an M3 LSD that I have had for ages, finally got around to test fitting it with the help of Socket. This involved dropping the exhaust, diff, undertrays and heatshields, transmission cross member and propshaft. Fitted up the M3 LSD and its a perfect fit, measured up the lengths and reassembled the car back to stock. The M3 LSD requires a custom propshaft and the M3 drive axles, so its quite a big job swapping it over.

Its a great sight seeing that big heatsink, can't wait to get it all installed for real. Have just dropped off the proshaft off today to the driveshaft builder and that should be the final piece of the puzzle to get the new diff in. I have bought a spare 330d proshaft which is the same design as my stock propshaft, albeit a different (longer)length. Automatic transmission propshafts are smaller and weaker, and I did not want to downgrade. I got the spare to prevent any downtime with the car, and enable me to revert back to stock if required.

Bascially, the rear M3 section will need to be put in place of the rear section of the 330d propshaft. Also the front section of the 330d shaft is longer so that will need to be shortened as well. Attached is the dimensions of my custom propshaft, this will only be valid for a N54 135i with manual transmission.

While the propshaft is being built, I will take off the diff cover, shot blast the heatsink to make it look pretty and refill with new Castrol SAF-XJ 75W-140 oil.
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      02-28-2017, 06:31 PM   #112
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Did some small bits and pieces recently:

Oil change with Motul 8100 excess, used a lot less oil than castrol. Normally the car consumes 1L of oil per 10k kms, the Motul only used around 250ml

Replaced gas shocks for the bonnet. My gas shock were fine and held up the bonnet but with new shocks the bonnet literally self opens when it is above half open. I figured mine wouldnt last much longer so may as well change them.

Changed out the exhaust tips for brand new OEM ones. I like the black chrome and the old ones have so much crap on them and theres no hope in cleaning them up.
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      03-01-2017, 06:42 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Did some small bits and pieces recently:

Changed out the exhaust tips for brand new OEM ones. I like the black chrome and the old ones have so much crap on them and theres no hope in cleaning them up.
Just caught up on the whole thread. Very nice work.

I need to replace my OEM tips as well. Are they welded to the muffler or just a bit of elbow grease to get them off?. Where did you source the new tips?. I'm guessing Bee Em charge a small fortune for them.

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      03-01-2017, 06:49 PM   #114
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Just caught up on the whole thread. Very nice work.

I need to replace my OEM tips as well. Are they welded to the muffler or just a bit of elbow grease to get them off?. Where did you source the new tips?. I'm guessing Bee Em charge a small fortune for them.

Cheers
Warren
2x of these, theyre the original genuine ones. Had a look at weld on tips but couldn't find anything I liked.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x1-18307559999

Only held in via friction you just pull them off.
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      03-01-2017, 06:54 PM   #115
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2x of these, theyre the original genuine ones. Had a look at weld on tips but couldn't find anything I liked.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...x1-18307559999

Only held in via friction you just pull them off.
Nice, thanks for the tip (groan!). Not cheap but my ones are corroded and make a great condition car look like crap. Out comes the credit card.

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      03-02-2017, 06:32 PM   #116
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The front of the car is too low with the bilstein B12 kit. Steep driveways and speed bumps are getting to be annoying.

Currently the front suspension top hat has a dinan camber plate, which is 6.35mm (1/4) thick, which raises the car by that amount. What I need is a little more ground clearance, 10-15mm should help a lot.

After some pondering about the problem, I decided I needed a spacer on the top hat to raise the ride height. Theres a BMW rough road package spacer for exactly this purpose, but it is quite expensive and raises the front by 20mm, which is a bit too high for my application. Alternatively I could buy a raw aluminium billet and machine a spacer plate out from scratch, but I wasn't too keen on that idea as it would take me a long time on my little lathe.

After some research I discovered a camber plate for e36 which looked like it would be perfect for the application. The only question was whether the top hat has the same bolt pattern as e8x/9x. I have some e92 top hats at home and measured the distance between bolts and put that measurement into a calculator which would determine the bolt circle size. After searching online, I found a mechanical drawing of an e36 top hat which matched up with e92 exactly!

I purchased the E36 camber plates from here for $59:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251507441...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

These plates can be used as is once the bearing has been disassembled. For my car i didn't want the extra material in the middle cos of my OCD so I wanted to machine out the bore so it looks nice an clean. This will also be helpful in allowing the top mounts to be accessible if I ever want to disassemble or install coilovers with strut adjustments. My initial attempts failed and resulted in the part flying out of the chuck on my lathe. 2nd attempt took a while but finally got it all machined.

The plates are 9mm in thickness and I will install the top mount renforcement plate from an e92, resulting in around 12mm of lift.

Looking forward to not scraping as much on steep driveways
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      03-03-2017, 09:27 PM   #117
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M3 Guide Rods

Had some time after work so I finally got around to installing my M3 guide rods that have been sitting around for ages.

Special thanks to nompower for the hookup for the left arm!

The new M3 guide rod includes a ball joint instead of a rubber bushing. This means the arm has negligible deflection on that joint, and should in theory reduce toe changes under heavy acceleration and cornering.

I wasn't expecting much improvement but I can certainly feel the difference. The rear end doesnt feel as loose and feels like the rear steers less. Sharp bumps transmit into the cabin more. The old guide rod may very well have been old and at the end of its life, would really need to test a new m3 guide rod vs a new nonM guide rod to be sure.

Incidentally when I did the B12 kit I undid all the bolts in the rear suspension and torqued at ride height, except for the guide rod on the wheel carrier side. This is because the bolt is not easily accessible for a torque wrench. Now I have better tools and extensions I could torque it up properly, but it could explain why the rear end of the car felt a bit loose recently, probably the bushing was stressed and on its way out
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      03-03-2017, 09:43 PM   #118
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Installed the spacer plates. Looks subtle but should make a big difference in clearing speed bumps and steep driveways. Cleaned up the bilstein shock too so it doesnt look so tired.
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      03-05-2017, 04:02 PM   #119
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Cleaned up the M3 diff this weekend, removed the rear cover as it seemed a bit dirty and I wanted to shot blast the dirt off with walnut shells. Good opportunity to change out the diff oil as well.

Drained the fluid
Cleaned the Housing
Removed the cover
Cleaned mating surfaces on housing and cover
Shot blasted the cover
Resealed cover with RTV

Came up nice but really needs something more abrasive than walnut shells to make the diff cover looking brand new. Doesn't matter too much though, will only take a month of driving before its all dirty again
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      03-08-2017, 06:52 PM   #120
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Amazing work Vince, I love your build mate!
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      03-11-2017, 05:41 PM   #121
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I am currently running e46 M3 transmission mounts which were a subtle improvement with no real NVH penalty. I recently had an ECS tuning order and decided to give the UUC black isolated mounts a try, since i was ordering from there anyway.




Nothing wrong with the M3 mounts, just had an ECS tuning order and threw these ones in to try out. Can see the E46 moutns are hourglass shaped while the UUC ones are cylinderical.

Build quality of the new mounts is average at best comapred to OEM, but at least these ones are properly isolated unlike the previous UUC mounts which basicially had a bolt running all the way through the rubber internally.

Wasn't expecting any difference but have felt that the gearshift feels more solid, would probably feel like a massive difference from stock. NVH is fine, cannot really tell much difference in noise from before, could be slightly louder but its so minor its a non issue.

EDIT: These actually noticeably increase the NVH, more road noise, slight gearwhine until the mounts settle down after a few k kms. More Dual mass flywheel noise. It is noticeable but in no way intrusive or bad.
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      03-11-2017, 06:19 PM   #122
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Refreshed the rest of my shifter assembly.

I was getting very frustrated by the side to side slop of the shifter assembly and all the information on the web seems to be wrong as to what will fix it.

At quite a lot of expensive I have now replaced:

Shift lever - most expensive hard to get part, thought the bushing was worn, replacing did nothing
Ball socket - cheap, made a huge difference, well worth it
UUC DBO bushings - bushings that go into the shifter carrier, made the shifter quite solid, well worth it


At this point the shifter feels solid but has a lot of side to side play. Took the plunge and decided to replace every last piece.

Swapped out these parts today:

Shift rod linkage - hard to get, did nothing waste of money
C clips - What I found that brand new shift linkages have a lot of backlash in them and the C clips are spring loaded to take up any slop. These contributed to about 20% of the overall slop
Gearshift rod joint - Joint that goes on transmission. This has foam piece inside of it to take up all of the backlash. On mine, the foam was completely squished and resulted in about 80% of the total slop. Also the rod selector shaft on my transmission is actually seeping oil, resulting in oil on the foam piece which I am sure didnt help. Will need to replace the oring seal at some point.

The install process is a bit involved, but got it done in around 2 hours or so.
V brace removed
Transmission cross member removed
Exhaust heatshield unbolted
Exhaust hanger removed to allow exhaust to droop
Exhaust heatshield moved back to allow access to propshaft
Propshaft disconnected from transmission and pushed back
Removed and replaced all remaining shift lever components

I am now happy to say the gearshift feels like a brand new car and feels extremely solid.

My advice if you have a sloppy shifter is to buy:
2x 25117571899 New cclips
1x 25111434194 foam insert for the gearshift rod joint
1x 25111220600 Ball socket for shift lever
2x UUC DBO upgrade to UUC DBO delrin bushings http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/delri...--oval-p9.aspx

and that should give you a brand new solid shifter.
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      03-12-2017, 01:06 AM   #123
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Awesome work, when I had my manual E90 I had terrible gear stick slop too. It seems to be quiet common on this platform.

I lost count how many times you dropped your transmission haha
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      03-13-2017, 06:46 AM   #124
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Bit of an update with the new shifter components. Shifter is super solid now feels very consistent and great to drive.

UUC transmission bushings definitely transmit a noticeable amount of extra noise into the cabin, you don't notice it immediately after install because its pretty subtle.

DMFW chatter on clutch engagement, throwout bearing rattle were present before but are a little louder now.

You get an awesome noise form the car sounds like a faint whine when accelerating under heavy load with the windows closed, overall the car sounds much more mechanical and viceral, very nice and not too loud.

Can't help but think the foam piece in the transmission is just a poor design for a performance car. I suspect the foam piece merely dampens the backlash but does not really make the shifter any more precise. Even though theres zero slop, I believe if there was a solid linkage you would get that extra shifter preciseness, I cannot see a reason why the joint was not just bolted to the transmission instead of using a crappy dowel pin with a loose fit.

It is not the most convenient location for a custom part to be made but I will see if I can come up with something, maybe I can machine up a dowel pin that is thicker and requires a press fit, although that would be a pain to remove.
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      03-13-2017, 04:32 PM   #125
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Nice work love the attention to detail and obsessiveness

Did you notice the same slack in my shifter?
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      03-13-2017, 04:43 PM   #126
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Quote:
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Nice work love the attention to detail and obsessiveness

Did you notice the same slack in my shifter?
Wasn't to the same extent as the slop my shifter, still felt pretty good as your much lower kms than mine.

Mine the foam had completely been squished, but yours definitely wasn't quite as solid as my setup now, replacing all the parts I've detailed and combining with your UUC short shifter should make for a super solid setup.

Its a shame with all these fancy products for the shifter linkage they don't disclose that its just the cheap c clips and foam piece and ball socket account for all of the backlash and slop in the system.
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      03-19-2017, 07:25 AM   #127
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Upgraded toe arms.

The stock toe arms are rubber bushed and can deflect under load, resulting in rear steer under heavy acceleration or wheel hop. M3 toe arms are the obvious first choice, as they provide a ball joints at both ends resulting in an arm that freely rotates but has negligible deflection which results in almost no toe changes under heavy loads.

Unfortunately the M3 toe arms do not fit, as they are designed for an M3 subframe which has differnt pickup points for the toe arms, resulting in a different length. Aftermarket toe arms either use unsealed joints (wont last long) or just use rubber bushed joints (pointless). Theres only a few with sealed joitns but are hard to source and become stupidly expensive once landed in Australia

fe1rx has custom made some fancy toe arms for the 135i which used the M3 bushes fitted into a custom made alloy arm. Unfortunately they are not for sale but has inspired me to make up my own solution.

I figure the best idea is to just use oem parts so looked at whether it would be possible to fit a ball joint into the factory toe arms. The stock factory rear upper link has a ball joint and is available separately for repairing an arm.

I found that while the ball joint is not avilable as a part number from BMW, it is available as a joint from Meyle or in my case FEBEST BMAB-044Z:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172556729...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Theres an error with the listing saying it is compatible with the toe arm bushings. This is wrong and it is actually the bushing for the upper control arm.

The width of the bushing is identical to the toe arm but the diameter is slightly larger. If I remember correctly it was around 45.50mm. The diamter of the toe arm bushing is approximately 44mm, but needed to be slightly oversize to press in snugly. As I have a lathe, machining off a mm is not a big deal and can be done pretty easily. These bushings will not work unless theyre machined down.

I tried using combinations of threaded rod to press the machined bushings in but did not have luck. The threaded rod tools would not reliably press the joint in squarely and usually resulted in the joint not going in straight. I managed to get one joint in but couldnt get the 2nd joint into the arm to complete it. The project sat on the shelf for several months and I almost forgot about it.

Recently I just got a shop press, as I found I really needed one for a lot of small jobs. Made it really easy to press in the joints, I really should have made them more oversize and relied on the brute force of the press to get them in. I did around a 44.15mm sizing but shouldve gone 44.30. This would have resulted in a much tighter fit. A couple of them were a little loose. So I ended up having to tack weld them in to ensure they don't move. Not ideal but looks like the bushings survived ok. Once my old toe arms are removed I will make a 2nd set with a tighter fit and keep these ones as spare.

Gave the upgrade toe arms a lick of paint to cover the tacks and ready to go on the car!

Big thanks to titium for supplying the spare toe arms
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      03-20-2017, 08:15 AM   #128
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Did the cowls make any difference to thermal management? I understand it would be hard to actually measure, but any feedback is appreciated.

Interesting about the Evo1 Performance. I have no idea why the Evo1 Competition doesn't use OEM-style couplers. All they do is weld them on to the cast endtanks.
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      03-20-2017, 04:34 PM   #129
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Quote:
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Did the cowls make any difference to thermal management? I understand it would be hard to actually measure, but any feedback is appreciated.

Interesting about the Evo1 Performance. I have no idea why the Evo1 Competition doesn't use OEM-style couplers. All they do is weld them on to the cast endtanks.
I didn't notice any differences in oil temperatures on the cluster.

Due to the cowl being designed for an M3 bonnet, the E82 bonnet doesn't actually seal on the M3 cowl's rubber, resulting in an airgap at the back of the engine. This would surely pull air straight thru the bay but probably not enough to impact oil temperatures more than a few degrees. The plastic stuff in the engine bay might last longer though.

Yeah would be great if they offered the lighter tube and fin EVO1 Comp with OE couplers, I quite like the OE quick connects and have found they are a lot easier to deal with than silicone. No issues with leaks from the quick connects either.
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      03-20-2017, 05:33 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
No issues with leaks from the quick connects either.
The main person spruiking about leaky oem quick connects is tiago at vrsf to help sell his products. Otherwise it's not a well publicised issue (not even sure it is an issue).
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      03-20-2017, 05:43 PM   #131
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Quote:
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The main person spruiking about leaky oem quick connects is tiago at vrsf to help sell his products. Otherwise it's not a well publicised issue (not even sure it is an issue).
Yeah I noticed a small amount of oil weeping from the quick connects, would have been the tiniest of leaks. All good now with new intercooler orings.

I have seen way more issues with silicone hoses though. Crappy quality hardware, hoses popping off etc, hoses hard to mount on square with the pipes.
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      03-21-2017, 03:40 AM   #132
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The main person spruiking about leaky oem quick connects is tiago at vrsf to help sell his products. Otherwise it's not a well publicised issue (not even sure it is an issue).
+1 Most vendors are full of shit, forum sponsor or not. At the end of the day, their more often than not, salesmen despite their background or "engineering" past.

That reminds me I should get some new o-rings for most of the pressure tract.
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