How have you improved you 135i brakes?

[135iRick]

Hey you guys! What have you done to your brakes? OEM parts? Aftermarket parts? Upgraded pads, calipers, rotors? BBK? How do you use your car too? Track monster? Street cruiser? Daily driver?

Total cost? (USD)

[2PUTT]

Originally Posted by 135iRick

Hey you guys! What have you done to your brakes? OEM parts? Aftermarket parts? Upgraded pads, calipers, rotors? BBK? How do you use your car too? Track monster? Street cruiser? Daily driver?

Total cost? (USD)

Are you asking as a poll type question or are you looking for ideas for your car? The only reason I am asking is because the answer usually depends on what you plan to do with the car. Is it for show or track events or just to improve the feel for your daily drive?

[Fidiman]

To improve these brakes, I would buy :
- Pagid RS29 (yellow) good for strong street use and track
- steel hose + Motul RBF600
- why not rebuilding the joints of the calipers if they have some miles
- front disk in two parts like those sold on ECS Tuning website : it will lower the unsuspected mass and improve the handling in turning (for the front only, I don't know if it exists for the rear, if so, it will increase a but the acceleration)

Then, you have all of these BBK but my advice was in order to be OEM like Hope it can help !

[E82MSport]

Mine - 08' 135i

Use - Daily with a couple track days

Brakes - Stock calipers and rotors, Stoptech Street Performance Pads, Motul RBF600.

I reference Stoptech because for the money it's hard to beat for a dual purpose pad. It's not a full track pad by any means but still a great compromise for those who don't want a dedicated set of rotors and pads for the track. Again, these aren't track pads but still hold up well to a couple hard sessions without to much degradation.

This topic has been discussed at length and there are several options depending on your needs/use. I wouldn't waste money on drilled/slotted rotors or two piece rotors like ECS offers, as there really isn't much benefit vs cost.

For the majority of people I suggest good pads (of your choice) and good fluid. That's it.

If you plan on tracking quite a lot, start in stages with performance type pads and moving up as you progress and get faster. I see no need to do anything to the calipers other than a good visual inspection after each track day. If you see the dust boots starting to melt it's time for a rebuild. There are kits out there for that include piston seals and dust boots that are reasonably priced. If you see degradation in the phenolic pistons (cracking or broken) there are stainless replacement pistons available. At that point you should look into additional cooling. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663510

OR, if you have the money, just buy a BBK

Hope this helps.

[Fidiman]

E82MSport, I agree with you even if I have the little stock OEM brakes on my E82 (same as the 128i ones).

In fact, I only put some RBF600 liquid and steel hoses and I felt the difference immediately after. Still on OEM pads, I will change all my brakes with the complete Performance set (thanks to a adaptation rear) when my pads will be dead.

135iRick, if you can have the opportunity to buy the Performance rotors, do it ! A friend of mine who track quite hardly his tuned 135i in Dijon Prenois said to me they are quite impossible to kill !

Hope this help again

[135iRick]

Originally Posted by 2PUTT

Are you asking as a poll type question or are you looking for ideas for your car? The only reason I am asking is because the answer usually depends on what you plan to do with the car. Is it for show or track events or just to improve the feel for your daily drive?

Both really. I want this thread to be something to be helpful for everyone that would happen upon it but don't necessarily have the same plans as I do for their car. So I left it open and general.

For my car specifically though, I would like something to help improve the feel of my daily driver which I do tend to drive more spiritedly.

[tro-nik]

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639905

[Fidiman]

Like tro-nik said, putting some CSL disks is a very good idea Some french E82 drivers who are tracking their car use this adpatation !

[hyphy1]

Originally Posted by E82MSport

Mine - 08' 135i

Use - Daily with a couple track days

Brakes - Stock calipers and rotors, Stoptech Street Performance Pads, Motul RBF600.

Hope this helps.

What should I look for in Motul? How much? Size?

[dcaron9999]

Regarding fitment of the CSL rotors on the 135i - have we sorted out how to get the caliper adapters in North America yet?

Edit: PM'ed Tro-nik and got the details ...

Did anyone try rear CSL rear rotors? Are adapters needed? (stock size is 324x22 and CSL is 328x20).

Edit #2: Rear rotor choices are limited, due to parking brake housed inside rotor hat. The rear rotors are not as critical as they are not working as hard and dissipating as much heat...

Can 17 inch wheels still be used (my winter setup) ?

[dcaron9999]

I do track my modded 135i a lot, and never completely got rid of brake fade on stock rotors + calipers + rubber lines + Motul RBF600 fluid, using a variety of brake pads. The best results I ever obtained were when I used fresh Project Mu Club Racer 09 pads. They had zero fade issues for several track days, but eventually crumbled and lost some fade resistance due to thinning pad thickness .

I know I need to work on cooling, or bringing cool air to the center of the rotors more efficiently. My wider 18x8.5 wheels and 255/35R18 tires in the front aren't helping as they block more of the air flow. Ive tried Hardbrakes 0.5mm Ti heat shields, BMW F30 "winged" dust shields, with no noticeable cooling effects. Also tried bending the shields some more.

Yesterday, in an effort to determine whether brake duct flexible piping could be fitted and routed from my front bumper vents to the center of my rotors, I lifted the car up and turned the steering from left to right. Their is absolutely no room in there without pinching and severing the flexible tube...

After two intensive lapping seasons (April to November), the stock 135i caliper seals and pistons also need to be refreshed.

In order of preference due to limited budget, Im wondering whether to get:

#1 - Removing the dust shields completely.

#2 - Russian made adapters (Tro-Nik member) + front stock BMW CSL ZCP drilled rotors.

#3 - ECS Tuning 2-piece rotors with RB (RacingBrakes) caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines

#4 - RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines

#5- Entry level BBK ...

[2PUTT]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

I do track my modded 135i a lot, and never completely got rid of brake fade on stock rotors + calipers + rubber lines + Motul RBF600 fluid, using a variety of brake pads. The best results I ever obtained were when I used fresh Project Mu Club Racer 09 pads. They had zero fade issues for several track days, but eventually crumbled and lost some fade resistance due to thinning pad thickness .

I know I need to work on cooling, or bringing cool air to the center of the rotors more efficiently. My wider wheels and 255/35R18 tires in the front aren't helping. Ive tried Hardbrakes 0.5mm Ti heat shields, BMW F30 "winged" dust shields, with no noticeable cooling effects. Also tried bending the shields some more.

Yesterday, in an effort to determine whether brake duct flexible piping could be fitted and routed from my front bumper vents to the center of my rotors, I lifted the car up and turned the steering from left to right. Their is absolutely no room in there without pinching and severing the flexible tube...

Stock 135i caliper seals and pistons also need to be refreshed.

In order of preference due to limited budget, Im wondering whether to get:

#1 - Removing the dust shields completely.

#2 - Russian made adapters (Tro-Nik member) + front stock BMW CSL ZCP drilled rotors.

#3 - ECS Tuning 2-piece rotors with RB (RacingBrakes) caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines

#4 - RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines

#5- Entry level BBK ...

just a heads up...i've read in the past that the ECS rotors have been known to warp easily. i personally have not used them but this has been reported in the past.

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by 2PUTT

just a heads up...i've read in the past that the ECS rotors have been known to warp easily. i personally have not used them but this has been reported in the past.

Thanks for the heads up.
Looks like the ECS's are more for show than function ...

[_Ryan_]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

I do track my modded 135i a lot, and never completely got rid of brake fade on stock rotors + calipers + rubber lines + Motul RBF600 fluid, using a variety of brake pads. The best results I ever obtained were when I used fresh Project Mu Club Racer 09 pads. They had zero fade issues for several track days, but eventually crumbled and lost some fade resistance due to thinning pad thickness .

I know I need to work on cooling, or bringing cool air to the center of the rotors more efficiently. My wider wheels and 255/35R18 tires in the front aren't helping. Ive tried Hardbrakes 0.5mm Ti heat shields, BMW F30 "winged" dust shields, with no noticeable cooling effects. Also tried bending the shields some more.

Yesterday, in an effort to determine whether brake duct flexible piping could be fitted and routed from my front bumper vents to the center of my rotors, I lifted the car up and turned the steering from left to right. Their is absolutely no room in there without pinching and severing the flexible tube...

Stock 135i caliper seals and pistons also need to be refreshed.

In order of preference due to limited budget, Im wondering whether to get:

#1 - Removing the dust shields completely.

#2 - Russian made adapters (Tro-Nik member) + front stock BMW CSL ZCP drilled rotors.

#3 - ECS Tuning 2-piece rotors with RB (RacingBrakes) caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines

#4 - RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines

#5- Entry level BBK ...

What's your cost difference for (#1 + #2 + #3 + #4)+ value of your brakes compared to #5?

[Ginger_Extract]

Here's what I'm using, it's not perfect, but seems to get me by at all D.E.s and very spirited canyon driving:

Calipers: Stock 135i
Discs: OE style, Centric blanks
Pads: Hawk DTC70/60
Fluid: ATE Typ200 or comparable
Misc: Ti-Shims + bent splash shields

Will be working on making functional brake ducting for the 2015 season.

[_Ryan_]

#1
Calipers: BMWP (135i equiv.)
Rotors: BMWP
Pads: Stoptech street performance
Fluid: Castrol (not SRF)
Notes- Fluid, pads and tyres went on the track

#2
Calipers: BMWP (135i equiv.)
Rotors: BMWP
Pads: Stoptech street performance
Fluid: ATE Super Blue
Note- Yet to fit HEL braided lines, yet to track, fluid change improved feel

#3 (To be tested)
Calipers: BMWP (135i equiv.)
Lines: HEL
Rotors: BMWP
Pads: (still deciding, likely Pagid or PFC)
Fluid: ATE Super Blue

Further steps required would be the RB pistons and F30 shields

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by _Ryan_

What's your cost difference for (#1 + #2 + #3 + #4)+ value of your brakes compared to #5?

I will probably end up implementing approach #1, and proceed to stock caliper rebuild/upgrade with RB high temp seals, and fresh plain rotors.

Not sure I want drilled rotors for track use, as brake pad wear will be accelerated, and rotors are more prone to cracks. I assume the BMW CSL drilled rotors are more solid though...

Here are approximate cost estimates below ...

#1 - Removing the dust shields completely
DIY job so no costs to do this as the next step.

#2 - Russian made adapters (Tro-Nik member) + front stock BMW CSL ZCP drilled rotors.
DIY job and ~ $900CAD in parts

#3 - ECS Tuning 2-piece rotors with RB (RacingBrakes) caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines
DIY job and $450 + $500 + $200 = $1150USD + shipping and duty fees

#4 - RB 2-piece rotors with caliper seal+ piston rebuild kit + SS brake lines
DIY job and $700 + $500 + $200 = $1400USD shipping and duty fees

#5- Entry level Front BBK ...
DIY job and $2200 (Wilwood) to $3500 (Stoptech, RB, PFC, etc)

#6 - stock rotors + RB rebuild kit + SS brake lines
DIY job and $360 + $500 + $200 = $1060USD + shipping and duty fees

[3002 tii]

I haven't tracked my 1-er yet but speaking from experience on my Z, I have to say that brake cooling REALLY works and I would imagine proper ducting being fed inside the rotors would probably address most of the overheating issue found in these calipers.

But stock rotors + RBF 600 + PFC pads + brake cooling is where I would START. For the cost of 2 piece rotors, ss lines and upgrading the pistons, may as well spend a little more and get a Stoptech bbk up front. Stoptech front kit $2400 (and sometimes you'll see 10% promotions so could be had for less than $2200) vs:

2-pc RB rotors $1200
Pistons $360 for set of 2
SS lines $125
Total: $1685

Price difference of $475 - big brake kit worth it IMO.

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

I haven't tracked my 1-er yet but speaking from experience on my Z, I have to say that brake cooling REALLY works and I would imagine proper ducting being fed inside the rotors would probably address most of the overheating issue found in these calipers.

The challenge is routing the piping. I went under the car and turned the steering wheel from lock to lock for an asseement. There is no way to avoid pinching if the intent is to run the tubing from the bumper air ducts.

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

But stock rotors + RBF 600 + PFC pads + brake cooling is where I would START.

Wont work. Been there done that. Rotor and brake pads still get white hot. Next steps is removing the F30 dust shields completely to help air reach the center of the brake rotor, and hopefully provide just enough cooling to prevent fading.

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

For the cost of 2 piece rotors, ss lines and upgrading the pistons, may as well spend a little more and get a Stoptech bbk up front.

Agreed. Getting dangeroulsy close to BBK pricing ...


Look at this post regarding the RB BBK, where too much cooling can also have adverse effects. Leads me to believe that properly designed rotors might be all that is needed for the 135i ...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=22

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

The challenge is routing the piping. I went under the car and turned the steering wheel from lock to lock for an asseement. There is no way to avoid pinching if the intent is to run the tubing from the bumper air


Wont work. Been there done that. Rotor and brake pads still get white hot. Next steps is removing the F30 dust shields completely to help air reach the center of the brake rotor, and hopefully provide just enough cooling to prevent fading.

Well you can't say "done that" if you haven't figured out a way to run the ducts haha. While feeding through air ducts would be optimal, I probably would come from the center by the sways. You just have to be willing to trim some shroud (but they're usually pretty cheap to replace if you want to go back to stock).

Here's a view under my Z, and I see E46 folks doing similar routing:



And into the wheel:



Edit:
I see Berk was able to run ducting into their 135i and I'm sure they're running square wide tires

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

Well you can't say "done that" if you haven't figured out a way to run the ducts haha. While feeding through air ducts would be optimal, I probably would come from the center by the sways. You just have to be willing to trim some shroud (but they're usually pretty cheap to replace if you want to go back to stock).

Here's a view under my Z, and I see E46 folks doing similar routing...

Thanks for the pics. The 135i has its FMIC stuffed in the center of the bumper. Then on either side, there are ducts that route air into the fender loosely pointed at the wheel. I will remove the bellypan to determine if the ducts can be replaced with flex piping routed towards center of hub...

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Thanks for the pics. The 135i has its FMIC stuffed in the center of the bumper. Then on either side, there are ducts that route air into the fender loosely pointed at the wheel. I will remove the bellypan to determine if the ducts can be replaced with flex piping routed towards center of hub...

For what it's worth I don't actually collect air in the middle neither. I collect from fogs, and route it into middle. I'll try to dig up any pics of a 135i with no bumper to find a solution.