UberWagon's 1M Clubsport Build aka The BlackKnight Returns!

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by UberWagon

UN1CORM I thought the common practice was just one of the x240 mounts and them standard on the other other side. Have you confirmed this fits with dual x240 mounts?

I haven't personally confirmed this (parts are still in transit to me), but have read that others are running the x240 mount on both sides. Speculation says this mount is solid rubber, but the driver's side is fluid filled (until it isn't and potentially damages the PS pump pulley). It seems like the OE pieces are cheaper than aftermarket poly options that still melt after repeated track sessions. Hopefully the additional shielding will prevent any deformation from heat. I'm also putting in cat-less (cp-e) downpipes to hopefully evacuate heat faster.

[CarJunkie]

I'll recommend the ADE mounts again...the rotated longitudinal design naturally shields the solid rubber bushing from heat. You will shake a bit at idle, though.

[PRTSB1M]

I definitely think that CarJunkie is correct about these being the best aftermarket option. http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p32/AD_E...ne_Mounts.html

[UberWagon]

Originally Posted by UN1CORM

I haven't personally confirmed this (parts are still in transit to me), but have read that others are running the x240 mount on both sides. Speculation says this mount is solid rubber, but the driver's side is fluid filled (until it isn't and potentially damages the PS pump pulley). It seems like the OE pieces are cheaper than aftermarket poly options that still melt after repeated track sessions. Hopefully the additional shielding will prevent any deformation from heat. I'm also putting in cat-less (cp-e) downpipes to hopefully evacuate heat faster.

Will be interested to hear what you think once you get them installed. Heat evacuation is a big issue with cramming all that power in these little cars!

[UberWagon]

Re did my seat mounting, cleaned up the seat belt routing so I can safely use the OEM belts on the street, and did an arm rest delete while I was in there. Thanks nachob for the inspiration and part numbers on that one!

[nachob]

Originally Posted by UberWagon

Re did my seat mounting, cleaned up the seat belt routing so I can safely use the OEM belts on the street, and did an arm rest delete while I was in there. Thanks nachob for the inspiration and part numbers on that one!

Looks awesome with the racing seats!

[UberWagon]

My 10 year old OEM battery couldn't hold a charge anymore (the final nail in the coffin was the delivery driver leaving the headlights on while transporting the car), so it was time for a new battery.

I went with an Odyssey D35 Yellowtop which is a nice compromise between lightweight, while still having enough capacity to handle the more finicky electronics on modern BMWs. Even better is Bimmerworld makes a really slick billet mount for our cars which sealed the deal for me!

Added a connector for my battery tender while I was in there.

[UberWagon]

Also, this is what happens when you forget you have your battery disconnected and close the trunk lid. Luckily I still had the old battery lying around that I could use as a booster to get things opened back up. With the cage in place crawling through the rear seat area is almost impossible so really glad that worked out!

[CarJunkie]

That looks great, I imagine you saved about 20 pounds of weight there, maybe more.

Does that billet battery mount fit that battery specifically, or does it have some adjustability to allow for any smaller battery?

Out of curiosity, what was your reason for installing Connectors for the battery tender in the trunk? Why not just use the battery connections under the hood?

[UberWagon]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

That looks great, I imagine you saved about 20 pounds of weight there, maybe more.

Does that billet battery mount fit that battery specifically, or does it have some adjustability to allow for any smaller battery?

Out of curiosity, what was your reason for installing Connectors for the battery tender in the trunk? Why not just use the battery connections under the hood?

The battery mount is specific to the Odyssey D35 series (red or yellow top) batteries although I am sure others in that approximate size range could be made to fit. The nice part is that is has an extra brace to mount the BMW 'power block' integrated into it.

Never really considered just using the jump posts under the hood to be honest, but that is a fine idea. The only thing I would want to check is if you get any artificial voltage drop when not connecting direct to the battery that might throw off the tender.

[CarJunkie]

Originally Posted by UberWagon

The battery mount is specific to the Odyssey D35 series (red or yellow top) batteries although I am sure others in that approximate size range could be made to fit. The nice part is that is has an extra brace to mount the BMW 'power block' integrated into it.

Never really considered just using the jump posts under the hood to be honest, but that is a fine idea. The only thing I would want to check is if you get any artificial voltage drop when not connecting direct to the battery that might throw off the tender.

They are an extension of the terminals, so it should work fine. My dealer had a CTEK tender (same one I use) on every showroom car, all connected to the under hood points.

[UberWagon]

Lot's of maintenance work this last week:

1. I had developed a leak on cold starts at my thermostat delete plate, and a fresh gasket didn't fix it. After talking to Rob Beck (RBTurbo) I replaced the oil filter housing itself and problem solved! Apparently a small percentage of them have been shown to warp over time.

2. While I was pulling everything apart to get to the housing bolts I went ahead and had the valves walnut blasted. I was probably a bit conservative here at only 29k miles, but now everything is nice and shiny and I won't have to think about it.

3. I also replaced the stock brake booster line with some Vibrant vacuum hose to make things look nicer with the DCI set-up.

Next up on the list is a fresh valve cover and gasket (will upgrade the PCV valve while I am in there), crank case vent hose, NGK one step colder plugs, Eldor coils, and a new serpentine belt. Then just maybe the N54 will be nice to me for a while longer!

[ayao]

How did the intake valves look @ 29K miles?

Originally Posted by UberWagon

Lot's of maintenance work this last week:

1. I had developed a leak on cold starts at my thermostat delete plate, and a fresh gasket didn't fix it. After talking to Rob Beck (RBTurbo) I replaced the oil filter housing itself and problem solved! Apparently a small percentage of them have been shown to warp over time.

2. While I was pulling everything apart to get to the housing bolts I went ahead and had the valves walnut blasted. I was probably a bit conservative here at only 29k miles, but now everything is nice and shiny and I won't have to think about it.

3. I also replaced the stock brake booster line with some Vibrant vacuum hose to make things look nicer with the DCI set-up.

Next up on the list is a fresh valve cover and gasket (will upgrade the PCV valve while I am in there), crank case vent hose, NGK one step colder plugs, Eldor coils, and a new serpentine belt. Then just maybe the N54 will be nice to me for a while longer!

[UberWagon]

Originally Posted by ayao

How did the intake valves look @ 29K miles?

None of them were terrible, but there was enough build up that I felt it was worth doing while I had it all apart. I would say they had another 10k-20k miles before it really needed it. Didn't grab any before photos.

[UberWagon]

More boring maintenance stuff this weekend:

>Installed new OEM valve cover and gasket with a RB Turbo PCV valve upgrade

>Replaced cracked PCV vent hose

>Fresh Eldor Coils and NGK one step colder plugs (Old plugs looked original to the car and pretty burnt!)

>Fresh Serpentine Belt

[CarJunkie]

I am considering the RB PCV upgrade along with replacement of the flapper. How hard is this as a DIY?

[UberWagon]

Originally Posted by CarJunkie

I am considering the RB PCV upgrade along with replacement of the flapper. How hard is this as a DIY?

Both are super easy if you do it while replacing the valve cover and still pretty straight forward even if you do it on the car. Just need to pull a fuel line out of the way. There are good Youtube videos on how to do it.

Only tip is be really careful when screwing the plastic cap back in. It is pretty easy to cross thread from what I have seen.

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by UberWagon

More boring maintenance stuff this weekend:

>Installed new OEM valve cover and gasket with a RB Turbo PCV valve upgrade

>Replaced cracked PCV vent hose

>Fresh Eldor Coils and NGK one step colder plugs (Old plugs looked original to the car and pretty burnt!)

>Fresh Serpentine Belt

I just did all of this on my 50k car, always good to start from a clean slate. I went with the BMS low-side catch can instead of the RB PCV. I have their high-side catch can and might put it on after I catch up to you on the M3 cabin filter cowl setup

I still need to do the belt/tensioner kit and water pump.

Looking good

[UberWagon]

So my car showed up missing the lower subframe tension brace when I bought it. After digging in further, it turns out this was because the cp-e prototype exhaust was a bit too large and interfered. Easy fix: I had a local race shop fab up some custom spacers and we are back in business.

Not sure it was super necessary with the roll bar welded in place, but easy to bolt-on extra chassis bracing seems like a no-brainer!

[UberWagon]

No pretty pictures, but bled the brakes and installed some fresh brake pads (Carbotech XP12 front and XP10 rear). Was keeping the ABS busy on cold tires while bedding them in!

Also installed some fresh Sparco 2" harnesses for the driver side to better work with my HANS device.

Local chapter BMW HPDE school in two weeks!

[UberWagon]

Spent some time cleaning up the thermostat mounting for my oil cooler set-up. Will probably re-do the upper hoses to make it prettier at some point, but it seems to be working pretty well now.

Right now I am running to an inline thermostat, then to a larger core Mishimoto cooler in the stock location with the venting modified to better accommodate and that is run in line with an M4 oil cooler. I've made some cut-outs in the lower part of the bumper cover to allow air to escape through the cooler (pushed in from the radiator opening). These cut outs match up to my RevoZport front lip and I'd like to think create a venturi at speed (but would need to actually model or test to verify).

Probably a bit over the top, but it does seem to work well. (Which maybe should be the build motto for this car!)

[UberWagon]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

I haven't personally confirmed this (parts are still in transit to me), but have read that others are running the x240 mount on both sides. Speculation says this mount is solid rubber, but the driver's side is fluid filled (until it isn't and potentially damages the PS pump pulley). It seems like the OE pieces are cheaper than aftermarket poly options that still melt after repeated track sessions. Hopefully the additional shielding will prevent any deformation from heat. I'm also putting in cat-less (cp-e) downpipes to hopefully evacuate heat faster.

PRTSB1M Did you ever get your dual x240 mounts installed? I am looking to replace my originals and curious if you had a review yet.