Door Lock Clicks Rapidly But Does Not Lock/Unlock (Actuator?)

[nevetstoj]

Hello,

In short my door locked and would not open after driving, I had to climb out the passenger side.

This morning I went on a Coffee run in my 2008 128i. All was well, door unlocked fine (no unusual noises), went on my coffee run, got home and pulled into my garage. Once I turned the car off and tried to get out the handle gave no resistance. I then used the central locking button and my lock just began clicking rapidly (3-ish times) but the little plunger did not move to the unlock position. Tried the central lock about 20 time and gave up and crawled over to the passenger side (Lock working fine, driver door lock would rapidly click while passenger door would operate normally). I tried using the key in the fob to manually unlock the door but it just clicks as well. I did let the car sit for a minute while i was googling and was able to somehow get the door to unlock. I am too afraid to lock the car again.

I have disabled auto-lock while driving in the OBC.

I have taken a video of the rapid clicking and will attach a link to youtube.

From what I understand, when the door actuator fails it will not operate at all. I haven not been able to find any other post about rapid clicking.

Attached is a video of the problem, in which you can see that the little plunger on the door wiggles as the clicking is occurring.

Has anyone else had this problem? Should I just bit the bullet and order a new actuator? Could something have become loose?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Steven.

The Video.

*****UPDATE*****

Well, ITS FIXED.
Thanks to Leagues58 (https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1379872), His guide worked. Getting the actuator out was hell. Also, since it was the drivers door I had to remove the lock cylinder (easy). Now the door closes with a thud. Unreal, its like a new car. Thanks to everyone for commenting in aid. Will be doing the passenger door next weekend just to be safe.

[tracer bullet]

I'd start by pulling the door panel off and taking a look at the mechanisms inside. See if something came loose, is stuck, etc.

[125EYE]

My car had this failure on the LHS (which over here is the passenger side) that required a new actuator to be fitted. Yes will need to remove the door car. (Note: do not lose the map pocket cover as its a pain to find a replacement - I've been trying to get one over here). One of the bolt heads to remove the door card is behind it....

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...44#51416975691

[nevetstoj]

Originally Posted by 125EYE

My car had this failure on the LHS (which over here is the passenger side) that required a new actuator to be fitted. Yes will need to remove the door car. (Note: do not lose the map pocket cover as its a pain to find a replacement - I've been trying to get one over here). One of the bolt heads to remove the door card is behind it....

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...44#51416975691

Looking into the actuator, it sounds like the plastic gear might of shredded its teeth. I called the dealer and they want $200 just to look at it and a single actuator is going to be $360, plus labour. Lol. I can get 2 off fcp for $70.

Thank you for replying, I've been thinking all day thats its so weird that a lock would fail out of nowhere.

[125EYE]

Wow yeah - not that it helps but my OEM door lock actuator cost AUD337.00 plus AUD172.50 for diagnosis and AUD138.00 for the labor to replace

All up about AUD650! This was a non-BMW dealer too back in 2015...BMW probably would have charged 1k...

Needless to say these cars can be v expensive to maintain.....

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by nevetstoj

Looking into the actuator, it sounds like the plastic gear might of shredded its teeth. I called the dealer and they want $200 just to look at it and a single actuator is going to be $360, plus labour. Lol. I can get 2 off fcp for $70.

Thank you for replying, I've been thinking all day thats its so weird that a lock would fail out of nowhere.

If it's a plastic gear, this would be the perfect time to get someone to 3D print you a new one...

[nevetstoj]

It was the actuator itself, Gears were broken. It rattled when I took it out. Thanks.

[nevetstoj]

Originally Posted by 125EYE

My car had this failure on the LHS (which over here is the passenger side) that required a new actuator to be fitted. Yes will need to remove the door car. (Note: do not lose the map pocket cover as its a pain to find a replacement - I've been trying to get one over here). One of the bolt heads to remove the door card is behind it....

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...44#51416975691

Job done, thanks for the assurance. I did not lose the little map bolt cover .