Rear shock lower nut torque?

[edisapimp]

Hello all,

I installed a b12 pro kit on my ‘09 convertible about a month ago. I purchased all new hardware (mounts, rubbers, washers, gaskets) for both front and rear, all the way down to the dust covers. I followed the ECS tuning YouTube video for the install down to the smallest detail. I must’ve watched the video 30 times before and during the install attempt. During the initial install, while tightening the lower shock nut on the passenger side, I had my torque wrench on the nut, and a 15mm wrench to stabilize the shock itself, and in an attempt to follow the 25 lb-ft spec, I actually sheared the threaded ‘bolt’ section off of the shock body. I got nowhere near what I would consider “too tight”. The torque wrench didn’t indicate I was anywhere close to 25 lb-ft. Needless to say I had to order another b8 damper from rockauto, and I have since installed it to completion. I racked my brain for several days after wondering if there was something I did wrong.

I guess my questions are: 1. Is there for some reason a different torque spec on the 1er than the 3er (ECS video was on an e92)?

2. Can anyone suggest a reason why this happened? I started tightening without the suspension loaded, but I don’t see how this would have affected anything.

Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts.

[myoneseries]

38 nm or about 28lbft

If you torqued it and it broke. I would be leery about using that toque wrench anymore.

Also, you really don't want to use a torque wrench where you are at the bottom of its range or 100% maxed out. Not sure if you did that or not.

[ShocknAwe]

Did it shear before hubbing to the mount?

[edisapimp]

I think I got some good guidance from another forum about not having loaded the suspension fully before tightening. The rationale is that the shock not being fully seated in the mount without being loaded would cause some “sideways” force to be applied on the stud while tightening, as it would be in the mount in an orientation other than perfectly “straight”. This argument seems to Hold water for me, as the reinstall went fine with torquing it while loaded. I don’t think it was the torque wrench’s fault. Thanks for your replies and interest thus far guys.

[edisapimp]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

Did it shear before hubbing to the mount?

Probably. It’s hard for me to really know the answer to that question. What I can say for certain is that when it sheared, it didn’t feel very tight at all.

[ShocknAwe]

Possible that it was a flaw, but looks like it sheared the bolt itself rather than a broken weld. Which makes me think of failed tq wrench, cross thread, or both.

Sorry hear about the mishap, shit happens when doing your own wrenching. Most of us mess somethi g up from time to time.

[edisapimp]

Yeah I’m sure it was user error. Just a follow up question, do you think this shock can be repaired? (Using a new stud welded to the shock body) or is that not feasible. It would be a shame to waste a brand new b8 damper!

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by edisapimp

Yeah I’m sure it was user error. Just a follow up question, do you think this shock can be repaired? (Using a new stud welded to the shock body) or is that not feasible. It would be a shame to waste a brand new b8 damper!

Only way would be to cut the stud off at the weld and weld a new one and I have no idea if they sell those independently. Call Bilstein?

[myoneseries]

I just replaced all my suspension, torqued, and didn't have the issue. I bring it up because I torqued with the suspension full droop, but i hadn't torqued the upper mounts down yet.

I wouldn't weld on the shock. Call wherever you got it from and see if they would swap it out. I agree it could have been a defective part. maybe you can get it swapped or get another for a discount given the circumstances.

[dtla1]

Can you take a picture of both pieces of the broken threaded section, without the nut? Maybe arrange them as they should be together.