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10-19-2010, 07:02 PM | #1 |
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Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover vs. Meguiar's Hard Water Spot Remover???
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I drove out of town for the weekend and parked my car in a spot which I thought was the best available, always trying to avoid door dings, tree zap, bird poop, etc. Well, sadly, I did not notice sprinklers around my car, and when I returned the next morning, my car was full of water spots. I washed the car and was able to wash off all visible marks, however, when in sunlight and looking at the paint at the right angle, one can see where the spots used to be - I think this is referred to as etching. Anyhow, I have been doing some research and apparently the two products I mention above are good and effective for this kind of problem. Does anyone have any experience with either one and recommend one over the other? Thanks! |
10-20-2010, 08:14 AM | #2 | |
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I removed mine with some Menzerna SIP on a green pad then resealed. This worked fine- I can't say that I have experience with the above.
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10-20-2010, 10:00 AM | #3 |
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+1 on SIP. The same thing has happened to me....i tried the CG method and another custom product. Neither worked, once it dries and etches too long the only way to get rid of it is polish.
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10-20-2010, 10:13 AM | #4 |
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I haven't used the Megs product yet but the Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover has worked well for me thus far. It works best on light to medium etchings. The other option is you can polish the surface as others suggested. I generally start with a light polish and use more aggressive ones as needed. Starting with a light polish like Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 or the Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish) works great. It's certainly possible you'll need a more aggressive polish afterward like the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 or Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83. These polishes generally can remove 95% of the water marks I have encountered. If this doesn't work let us know and we can come up with a plan at that time. If you have any questions please let me know.
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10-20-2010, 11:12 AM | #5 |
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take it for a good detailing and if it dosnt come out waxing
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10-20-2010, 12:17 PM | #6 |
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waxing doesnt remove water etching.....
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10-20-2010, 04:19 PM | #7 |
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Thanks fellas!
Greg, I just ordered CG WSR from you guys. Based on what I read, I have a good feeling that it will work for me. So far I have washed, clayed, and resealed the surface where the spots were, and unless you look at the car in direct sunlight, at a very specific and acute angle, you cannot see them. I see them because I know what section of the car they were on, but honestly, I am extremely picky compared to the average individual, and I'm struggling to see them at this point. Again, all I can see is very light/superficial marks around where the spots used to be (maybe some superficial etching?), but hopefully this product will take care of business. I didn't let the spots bake into the finish for long which is why I think they didn't cause relevant damage. |
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10-23-2010, 10:10 PM | #9 | |
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Greg, I have a question. The bottle says to rinse the car off first so I'm assuming the product is to be used while the car is wet, since I will be working on an area at a time and rinsing off. The water spots are gone from washing the car and using white distilled vinegar, but as I described before, if looking at the car out in the sun just at the right angle, there are very faint marks around the borders where each drop used to be - I'm assuming this is a minor case of etching. Again, very difficult to see, but because I am ultra picky I decided to give this product a go. Once you confirm the points I just mentioned, the question becomes: is it ok for me to apply it to the hood and fender since those were the affected areas? or do I truly need to work on 2"x2" areas at a time? I will do whatever it takes in order to get the proper result, however, given that half of the hood and that same side fender were the affected areas, I was thinking of applying CG WSR on these two body panels and then rinse off. Please let me know your thoughts and thanks again! Last edited by 1SerieStud; 10-23-2010 at 10:16 PM.. |
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10-24-2010, 02:22 PM | #10 | |
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As for your order I'm thrilled to hear it arrived early. We really work hard to ship orders out ASAP. I would recommend washing the vehicle first so you don't grind in contaminants while working in the WSR. Then work in small sections as they suggest and rinse it off before moving on. You don't want this product sitting on your hood too long. You really want to be working in the shade as well with this product. If you have any questions please let me know. Greg @ DI |
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10-24-2010, 04:03 PM | #11 |
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After owning a black G35 and living in a city with hard water, I can't see myself ever owning another black car.
It is great to hear there are some products that might be able to remove hard water spots. |
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10-24-2010, 09:30 PM | #12 |
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I know the pain...I was the owner of a black G35 coupe and then another black G37S coupe...what a struggle to keep clean!
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10-24-2010, 10:02 PM | #13 | |
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10-25-2010, 06:21 AM | #14 |
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Greg will probably chime in as well, but based on what I've read, this product is not a polish, instead, it's an acidic solution that reacts with the bond of the minerals that fused on the clear coat, loosing them up again and allowing for their removal.
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10-25-2010, 05:04 PM | #15 |
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It's a very strong chemical solution that is not a polish. It's designed to break down mineral deposits and help remove very fine etchings. It should be used with caution, as I always where rubber gloves during it's application.
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