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      07-26-2018, 07:19 AM   #1
bionicbelly
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Oil cooling

Ok, so I have problems. 2010 BMW 128 track only car.

Car keeps going into limp mode after a few laps in hot weather. No codes, no warning on the dash, just cuts power. All coding for the track was done by bimmergeeks. E-diff, brake temp, etc. etc.

So I have a few questions.

First, I have the INPA tool from bimmergeeks. Is there a way I can find what is triggering this cut in power?

If it ends up being oil temp, which I suspect (pulled off track and water temp was 189 F) what is the best option for me? I think there are two as far as I can see. The oil water exchange thing on N54/N52 cars, or to use an oil filter housing from one of those cars and do an air cooled oil cooler. Obviously the first option would be an easier install, but I am concerned it may not be enough.

Any help/experience is appreciated.

I just can't continue to have this happen. I generally drop my best laps later in the session, and this is KILLING me. Last weekend at HPT, I am coming out of the last turn going on the front straight, predictive timing shows a low 1:15 which would be good for the win, and boom, limp mode. Happened the day before also.
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      07-26-2018, 07:36 AM   #2
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I've run with the water-oil heat exchanger in 90-degree weather (sunny, humid, in the mountains) without a problem. I also installed a 135i instrument cluster so that I can monitor my oil temps (I don't care much about coolant). They never crested 240 on Summit Point Main (a fairly fast track), and never passed 250 on Summit Point Shenandoah (MUCH more technical, not much straightaway time for good cooling). It's been a good upgrade, and it also means you don't have to do bumper and fender work to fit in an air-oil heat exchanger...
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      07-26-2018, 10:51 AM   #3
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Interesting

You can take at n54/55 oil filter housing and cooler combo and replace the stock unit if you need more cooling. I would recheck the parameters on the brake coding. I was just at Mid Ohio with mine in high humidity and temps with no issues. Seems like your coding may be off.

Did it start after the coding?
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      07-26-2018, 12:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
Interesting

You can take at n54/55 oil filter housing and cooler combo and replace the stock unit if you need more cooling. I would recheck the parameters on the brake coding. I was just at Mid Ohio with mine in high humidity and temps with no issues. Seems like your coding may be off.

Did it start after the coding?
Never did any track work pre-coding. I bought it, built it, and that was it. Only time I drove the thing was driving it home from the purchase.

Also, I was in Topeka, the temp was 90+, and we were running the shorter courses. I was 5,500 - 7000 RPM ALL the time. There are two straights that (depending on exit speed of the previous corner) I ride the limiter for 5-700 feet, because there is no point in shifting, then immediately shifting again. I mean, I just rev the piss out of this thing.

When I was at Mid-O I didn't have this problem, but going down the back straight and through thunder valley, I was shifting at about 6800. And wasn't really getting on the limiter much, so I don't think it was working as hard as it was in Topeka.

Last edited by bionicbelly; 07-26-2018 at 12:09 PM..
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      07-26-2018, 12:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I've run with the water-oil heat exchanger in 90-degree weather (sunny, humid, in the mountains) without a problem. I also installed a 135i instrument cluster so that I can monitor my oil temps (I don't care much about coolant). They never crested 240 on Summit Point Main (a fairly fast track), and never passed 250 on Summit Point Shenandoah (MUCH more technical, not much straightaway time for good cooling). It's been a good upgrade, and it also means you don't have to do bumper and fender work to fit in an air-oil heat exchanger...
So I have looked into this a bit, and I have the housing/exchanger figured out, but it sounded like there were some other hoses to install. Any insight on that? I will probably go this route, as I have brake cooling, and not really a lot of room for anything else, and I suck a fabbing things up. Also, thanks a lot for the info. That was what I was looking for.
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      07-26-2018, 12:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I've run with the water-oil heat exchanger in 90-degree weather (sunny, humid, in the mountains) without a problem. I also installed a 135i instrument cluster so that I can monitor my oil temps (I don't care much about coolant). They never crested 240 on Summit Point Main (a fairly fast track), and never passed 250 on Summit Point Shenandoah (MUCH more technical, not much straightaway time for good cooling). It's been a good upgrade, and it also means you don't have to do bumper and fender work to fit in an air-oil heat exchanger...
So I have looked into this a bit, and I have the housing/exchanger figured out, but it sounded like there were some other hoses to install. Any insight on that? I will probably go this route, as I have brake cooling, and not really a lot of room for anything else, and I suck a fabbing things up. Also, thanks a lot for the info. That was what I was looking for.
There's a metal pipe that goes from the water pump to the block of the engine on the exhaust side that (if your car is a manual) needs to be replaced with the one for automatic cars, and then there's a hose that runs from the new housing to a barb on the aforementioned pipe. This is how water gets circulated through the heat exchanger, it comes from the water pump, through the core, over to the radiator, gets cooled and does it all over again, parallel to the coolant running through the engine.
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      07-26-2018, 12:26 PM   #7
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I recently did the retrofit and found this thread from E90Post helpful.

The main things you'll need are the new oil filter housing, the heat exchanger, a plastic cover for the heat exchanger, a coolant hose that goes from the heat exchanger to a coolant supply pipe, and a new coolant supply pipe that can accept said hose (assuming you drive a manual).

I was able to find the oil filter housing on sale (about $100 off) by searching ECS for an old p/n. When the item arrived, it was labeled with the revised part number, so go figure. It came with both gaskets, an oil filter, and the plastic filter cap.

Oh, I also replaced the oil pressure sensor at the same time, since it's right there. Probably not necessary, but it was cheap. I can get you all the part numbers if you want, and a link to the relevant schematics from RealOEM. Plan on doing a coolant flush at the same time, cause you're going to loose most of it during the swap.
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      07-26-2018, 02:40 PM   #8
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Look into the CSF all aluminum radiator. I put one in recently and great fitment. It's got an additional core and volume that should help you. Check it out on bimmerworld.
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      07-26-2018, 08:09 PM   #9
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Also look into coding FLR on the DSC module ,it'll cut power on the track. Sorry if you've already done this, I just sped-read the thread
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      07-26-2018, 09:44 PM   #10
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What is flr? I had a ton of stuff coded out, but not sure if I remember that one.
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      07-26-2018, 11:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
What is flr? I had a ton of stuff coded out, but not sure if I remember that one.
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      07-27-2018, 06:51 AM   #12
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Yep. That was the big one I was concerned about when I got the car coded, and number one on the list. I do not know how to check to make sure it is gone, but I do know I asked for that to be coded off. I have done several track days with this not being an issue (several others ) but not this.

I tried last night to find anything that would indicate why it was happening, but that was a no go since the inpa tool is in german. Pretty sure the only errors it was giving me were the ones I knew were already there.

I just have a feeling that with the combination of temperature, and how hard I was revving the car, it is oil temp, but with no way to verify...
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      08-29-2018, 04:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
I recently did the retrofit and found this thread from E90Post helpful.

The main things you'll need are the new oil filter housing, the heat exchanger, a plastic cover for the heat exchanger, a coolant hose that goes from the heat exchanger to a coolant supply pipe, and a new coolant supply pipe that can accept said hose (assuming you drive a manual).

I was able to find the oil filter housing on sale (about $100 off) by searching ECS for an old p/n. When the item arrived, it was labeled with the revised part number, so go figure. It came with both gaskets, an oil filter, and the plastic filter cap.

Oh, I also replaced the oil pressure sensor at the same time, since it's right there. Probably not necessary, but it was cheap. I can get you all the part numbers if you want, and a link to the relevant schematics from RealOEM. Plan on doing a coolant flush at the same time, cause you're going to loose most of it during the swap.
Can you PM part numbers? I'd like to look into this more. Thanks!
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      09-05-2018, 04:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
Interesting

You can take at n54/55 oil filter housing and cooler combo and replace the stock unit if you need more cooling. I would recheck the parameters on the brake coding. I was just at Mid Ohio with mine in high humidity and temps with no issues. Seems like your coding may be off.

Did it start after the coding?
I heard about this, but what about the factory N52 oil cooler? i mean there is what appears to be a coolant hose connected, does it get just blocked off?

On my Mending Airfield track day, it was over 42c on track and redlining 3rd gear 90% of the track, shifting to 4th and touching 190kph before hard braking for turn 1, engine rpms never dropped below 4,000-4,200 or so.

Even then it was the hottest track session i saw and the oil temperature was just a smidge over 120c (installed 135i cluster gauges).

I am running 5w-40 oil weight though, oil temps usually sit between 115c-120c during this year's track events, only at Mending i saw what i would say 125c or so since it was really hot.

Car has a software tune as engine mod, all other fluids and oils were flushed with the exception of the coolant (was the original 2012 one, never replaced, which is what i did about a month ago).

To my knowledge these N52s do not run hot, even when pushed hard.

*EDIT* Looks like some models came with and without a water-oil cooler heat exchanger from the factory? Mine has the second pic linked from the E90 forums (not the 1st one with the black plastic cover).
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      09-05-2018, 10:04 PM   #15
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So just a heads up, I ended up with a n54 ofh, and oil thermostat. Added an eBay oil cooler to that, and presto, no more problems. I was able to run full sessions at a track that is 4500 rpm at the low end, and riding the rev limiter for a couple hundred feet at the high end. No more half power.
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      09-06-2018, 02:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
I heard about this, but what about the factory N52 oil cooler? i mean there is what appears to be a coolant hose connected, does it get just blocked off?

On my Mending Airfield track day, it was over 42c on track and redlining 3rd gear 90% of the track, shifting to 4th and touching 190kph before hard braking for turn 1, engine rpms never dropped below 4,000-4,200 or so.

Even then it was the hottest track session i saw and the oil temperature was just a smidge over 120c (installed 135i cluster gauges).

I am running 5w-40 oil weight though, oil temps usually sit between 115c-120c during this year's track events, only at Mending i saw what i would say 125c or so since it was really hot.

Car has a software tune as engine mod, all other fluids and oils were flushed with the exception of the coolant (was the original 2012 one, never replaced, which is what i did about a month ago).

To my knowledge these N52s do not run hot, even when pushed hard.

*EDIT* Looks like some models came with and without a water-oil cooler heat exchanger from the factory? Mine has the second pic linked from the E90 forums (not the 1st one with the black plastic cover).
I read somewhere that some "hot weather" cars came fitted with the oil coolers, perhaps cars sold in hot climates.
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      09-06-2018, 03:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asbrr View Post
I read somewhere that some "hot weather" cars came fitted with the oil coolers, perhaps cars sold in hot climates.
That was on the 3 series cars in early production. They in later years went to the oil cooler setup on all the turbos. 128s did not get the oil coolers stock from the factory
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      09-06-2018, 03:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
That was on the 3 series cars in early production. They in later years went to the oil cooler setup on all the turbos. 128s did not get the oil coolers stock from the factory
Maybe for US cars, my 125i and all other N52 E9x i have seen on track days had them.
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      09-07-2018, 08:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Head View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
That was on the 3 series cars in early production. They in later years went to the oil cooler setup on all the turbos. 128s did not get the oil coolers stock from the factory
Maybe for US cars, my 125i and all other N52 E9x i have seen on track days had them.
You Europeans actually drive your cars, more so than most American buyers...
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      09-07-2018, 01:53 PM   #20
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You Europeans actually drive your cars, more so than most American buyers...
Said Mr. 170K+ milage owner XD
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      09-07-2018, 06:34 PM   #21
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Said Mr. 170K+ milage owner XD
Lol true. I mean drive your cars, like, in a fun manner. We do have a lot more space to move about in, but few people are in a hurry to cover all of that space...
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      09-07-2018, 08:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
So just a heads up, I ended up with a n54 ofh, and oil thermostat. Added an eBay oil cooler to that, and presto, no more problems. I was able to run full sessions at a track that is 4500 rpm at the low end, and riding the rev limiter for a couple hundred feet at the high end. No more half power.
Is it hard to mount the cooler? Do you need a msport bumper for this?
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