BC suspension kit, not fitting on 135, M-Sport?

[CWOERN]

Hi folks,

I searched unsuccessfully the forum for pictures or comments regarding possible problems when installing a BC suspension kit.

I ordered this kit here ( https://photos.app.goo.gl/RCfePFw6mR9ufWNHA )in Australia, stating it is meant to be installed into my BMW 135i, E88, 2009, M-Sport package. (My car for those interested to see some pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pWxKduFRqBrjvzaz9 ).

The reason why I decided on a new suspension kit was the fact that particularly the right front was hard and noisy when running over even small potholes. My garage which serviced the car last time informed that the car sits for some reasons on the front right side about 10mm lower than on the left side, hinting that the chassis mount could be bent. I bought the car used, never noticed the different ride height and don't think that the car ever suffered such a strong impact resulting in an otherwise invisible deformation. My thoughts were that either the upper mounting point of the original strut broke or the shock just sits 1cm lower as it may have worn out over the years. After I removed the strut I noticed a strange deformation of the upper strut mount, leaving me clueless how that could have happened. Any ideas? (photo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WrSUauiv2MGfSUyPA ). Is it possible that the previous owner ran into a pothole and managed to deform the upper mounting plate/ring?

Anyway, the package I received - which I fear may not be the right one for my car - included this manual: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NA...MV547FSoosfolS. A small sticker on the shock and manual does not list the 135, this may or may not already the answer?!

My concerns:

1) The original shock reaches much deeper into the "carrier" than the new BC shock would allow, the BC has an insertion length of around 45mm while the carrier "demands" around 55mm. The original one is unnecessarily(?) way longer (photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/a5c1DGZpTKKEj3WY9)

2) The upper mounting point for the swing support bar is determined by the distance between the "nose" and the bracket on the shock?! When I compare both struts, I can't see how I would be able to mount the support bar onto the BC as the distance is shorter. (photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Usw7APgAPfAYsnNh9 )

3) If I adjust the BC strut to the same length (top mounting point to the "nose" which rests on the "carrier"), the upper part of the strut would screw into the lower section only around 5cm, does that look sufficient? (photo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KQ4gybuwXYuwXHj2A)

Question:
Did I receive the right kit and just misunderstood how to install it? Would my car require a different kit because it is a 135 and has the M-Sport package (I don't know how suspensions of other E82/E87/E88 would look like)? If so, what BC part number/model would that be?

If this kit is correct (or any replacement kit I would need) would I have to adjust the overall length of the not yet installed struts to the same length as the original ones? I surely don't want to sit lower than the car already is.
Does anyone have advice how (if at all) I would have to adjust the spring tension to achieve a firm but somewhat comfortable ride (street use, no track)?

Do you have any other installation tips/hints I should follow to avoid any surprises or extra work?
How does the installation of the rear shocks compare to the front? Is that much easier (I found the front removal rather painful than an easy/smooth process).

All/additional photos of the strut removal so far: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1kMaZFLSrt29RcYn8


Any help/comments highly appreciated.

Regards, Chris

[yokomo963]

I haven't had the BC kit... but I did just finish installing my TcKline SA coilovers...

I'll try and answer your concerns as this install process is fresh in my mind.

1) As long as the coilover is inserted into the carrier fully, you shouldn't have any issues. My Koni shocks were slightly shorter as well. Make sure the pinch bolt is tight after.

2) You might have to get new sway bar endlinks for lowered cars. They are usually adjustable ones like these:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...5990tms08~tms/

3) 5cm should be plenty of thread engagement into the height adjustment part of the coilover. you might find afterwards setting the BC coils to the stock height, you'll actually end up higher due to the higher spring rate. Adjust accordingly after the installation to get your final ride height.

As far as your question on setting the spring collars... According to the manual on page 2, just adjust the collar to the bottom of the spring until "snug" (don't preload the spring, manual says springs come preloaded on BC kit) and tighten the two collars there. Use your damper adjusters to adjust ride "quality" after. If you don't want too stiff I'm assuming you'll turn yours all the way out. But you can adjust to your liking, that's the beauty of coilovers.

Only other thing i could think of was to get a spreader tool for the front perch area so it makes it easier getting the old strut out and new strut in.

The rear I found to be more difficult for some reason. It wasn't hard persay but just remove everything and install your spring first. The fronts were pretty straight forward.

Oh, to make sure you get the rear to drop fully, do this install with the Ebrake disengaged! I did the bilstein pss10 coils on my e46 m3 with the handbrake on and i couldn't figure out why I couldn't get enough space to get the spring out... As soon as i let the ebrake down, boom...

Hope some of this helps.

-Eric

Originally Posted by CWOERN

Hi folks,

I searched unsuccessfully the forum for pictures or comments regarding possible problems when installing a BC suspension kit.

I ordered this kit here ( https://photos.app.goo.gl/RCfePFw6mR9ufWNHA )in Australia, stating it is meant to be installed into my BMW 135i, E88, 2009, M-Sport package. (My car for those interested to see some pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pWxKduFRqBrjvzaz9 ).

The reason why I decided on a new suspension kit was the fact that particularly the right front was hard and noisy when running over even small potholes. My garage which serviced the car last time informed that the car sits for some reasons on the front right side about 10mm lower than on the left side, hinting that the chassis mount could be bent. I bought the car used, never noticed the different ride height and don't think that the car ever suffered such a strong impact resulting in an otherwise invisible deformation. My thoughts were that either the upper mounting point of the original strut broke or the shock just sits 1cm lower as it may have worn out over the years. After I removed the strut I noticed a strange deformation of the upper strut mount, leaving me clueless how that could have happened. Any ideas? (photo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WrSUauiv2MGfSUyPA ). Is it possible that the previous owner ran into a pothole and managed to deform the upper mounting plate/ring?

Anyway, the package I received - which I fear may not be the right one for my car - included this manual: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NA...MV547FSoosfolS. A small sticker on the shock and manual does not list the 135, this may or may not already the answer?!

My concerns:

1) The original shock reaches much deeper into the "carrier" than the new BC shock would allow, the BC has an insertion length of around 45mm while the carrier "demands" around 55mm. The original one is unnecessarily(?) way longer (photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/a5c1DGZpTKKEj3WY9)

2) The upper mounting point for the swing support bar is determined by the distance between the "nose" and the bracket on the shock?! When I compare both struts, I can't see how I would be able to mount the support bar onto the BC as the distance is shorter. (photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Usw7APgAPfAYsnNh9 )

3) If I adjust the BC strut to the same length (top mounting point to the "nose" which rests on the "carrier"), the upper part of the strut would screw into the lower section only around 5cm, does that look sufficient? (photo: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KQ4gybuwXYuwXHj2A)


Question:
Did I receive the right kit and just misunderstood how to install it? Would my car require a different kit because it is a 135 and has the M-Sport package (I don't know how suspensions of other E82/E87/E88 would look like)? If so, what BC part number/model would that be?

If this kit is correct (or any replacement kit I would need) would I have to adjust the overall length of the not yet installed struts to the same length as the original ones? I surely don't want to sit lower than the car already is.
Does anyone have advice how (if at all) I would have to adjust the spring tension to achieve a firm but somewhat comfortable ride (street use, no track)?

Do you have any other installation tips/hints I should follow to avoid any surprises or extra work?
How does the installation of the rear shocks compare to the front? Is that much easier (I found the front removal rather painful than an easy/smooth process).

All/additional photos of the strut removal so far: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1kMaZFLSrt29RcYn8


Any help/comments highly appreciated.

Regards, Chris

[CWOERN]

Originally Posted by yokomo963

I haven't had the BC kit... but I did just finish installing my TcKline SA coilovers...

I'll try and answer your concerns as this install process is fresh in my mind.

1) As long as the coilover is inserted into the carrier fully, you shouldn't have any issues. My Koni shocks were slightly shorter as well. Make sure the pinch bolt is tight after.

2) You might have to get new sway bar endlinks for lowered cars. They are usually adjustable ones like these:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...5990tms08~tms/

3) 5cm should be plenty of thread engagement into the height adjustment part of the coilover. you might find afterwards setting the BC coils to the stock height, you'll actually end up higher due to the higher spring rate. Adjust accordingly after the installation to get your final ride height.

As far as your question on setting the spring collars... According to the manual on page 2, just adjust the collar to the bottom of the spring until "snug" (don't preload the spring, manual says springs come preloaded on BC kit) and tighten the two collars there. Use your damper adjusters to adjust ride "quality" after. If you don't want too stiff I'm assuming you'll turn yours all the way out. But you can adjust to your liking, that's the beauty of coilovers.

Only other thing i could think of was to get a spreader tool for the front perch area so it makes it easier getting the old strut out and new strut in.

The rear I found to be more difficult for some reason. It wasn't hard persay but just remove everything and install your spring first. The fronts were pretty straight forward.

Oh, to make sure you get the rear to drop fully, do this install with the Ebrake disengaged! I did the bilstein pss10 coils on my e46 m3 with the handbrake on and i couldn't figure out why I couldn't get enough space to get the spring out... As soon as i let the ebrake down, boom...

Hope some of this helps.

-Eric

Thanks Eric. Is yours also a 135 and/or M-Sport (you mention further down an e46)? Do you know if the smaller or standard 1 series are different? Did your car require different aftermarket sway endlinks after the installation of the kit? I don't understand why BC didn't locate the mounting bracket at a different location so I could use the original ones.
Yes, a tool to tension the springs would have been great, I assume I would have had to dismount less pieces to get the strut out.

Regards from down under.

[yokomo963]

Originally Posted by CWOERN

Thanks Eric. Is yours also a 135 and/or M-Sport (you mention further down an e46)? Do you know if the smaller or standard 1 series are different? Did your car require different aftermarket sway endlinks after the installation of the kit? I don't understand why BC didn't locate the mounting bracket at a different location so I could use the original ones.
Yes, a tool to tension the springs would have been great, I assume I would have had to dismount less pieces to get the strut out.

Regards from down under.

Yea. The tckline coils are on my 135i. I was able to use the stock endlinks without any issues. But I will be changing them out when I do the sway bars also.

[CWOERN]

Originally Posted by yokomo963

Yea. The tckline coils are on my 135i. I was able to use the stock endlinks without any issues. But I will be changing them out when I do the sway bars also.

Ahh, a different sway bar may require a different length of the link?! Maybe BC either offers a different sway bar or assumes a buyer would use an adjustable one?!

Did your car come much lower after the installation of your kit? Are you planning to change your settings frequently? I am wondering how I would gain easy access to the little valve on top of the shocks as there is a stabilizer from left to right installed (only on E88s, https://photos.app.goo.gl/uiF1xqx1mFAhRu7f9)?

Regards, Chris

[yokomo963]

Originally Posted by CWOERN

Ahh, a different sway bar may require a different length of the link?! Maybe BC either offers a different sway bar or assumes a buyer would use an adjustable one?!

Did your car come much lower after the installation of your kit? Are you planning to change your settings frequently? I am wondering how I would gain easy access to the little valve on top of the shocks as there is a stabilizer from left to right installed (only on E88s, https://photos.app.goo.gl/uiF1xqx1mFAhRu7f9)?

Regards, Chris

Not always. Just want a stronger sway bar Endlinks along with a stronger sway bar.

Ride height I wanted to go a little lower. I adjusted them to 13” from wheel center to the top of the fender. Height might change a little bit after corner balancing though.

Initially I might be messing with the settings a little bit to dial them how I like. But with autocross and track days canceled for the time being that will have to weight. The tckline coilovers you can get a small screwdriver tool that works with their adjuster that can bypass the strut bar. Tckline doesn’t have the finger adjustment knobs

[CWOERN]

Originally Posted by yokomo963

Originally Posted by yokomo963 View Post
I haven't had the BC kit... but I did just finish installing my TcKline SA coilovers...

I'll try and answer your concerns as this install process is fresh in my mind.

1) ....

2) You might have to get new sway bar endlinks for lowered cars. They are usually adjustable ones like these:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...5990tms08~tms/

Hi Eric, need to understand the part with shorter sway bar links for lowered cars. One end is connected at the sway bar, which I believe doesn't move/change when lowering the car (although I am not even looking into lowering the car), the other end mounts onto the shock bracket. Why would BC - and maybe manufacturers of other kits - weld the mounting bracket lower than the stock position? What advantage does that have? I see currently only a disadvantage, I would have to get shorter/adjustable sway bar links?!





Or does the sway bar rotate (once the other side is disconnected as well) and I can/should use the original links? If I use shorter aftermarket links, the sway bar doesn't need to be rotated - if that is even possible or recommended.
Is the intention to apply a different torque by having relocated anchoring points and changing due to this fact handling and suspension behaviour?


Regards, Chris

[yokomo963]

The sway bar will rotate up or down depending on your ride height. The adjustable endlinks allow you to adjust so you won’t preload the sway bars

[CWOERN]

Originally Posted by yokomo963

The sway bar will rotate up or down depending on your ride height. The adjustable endlinks allow you to adjust so you won’t preload the sway bars

Sorry to be a pain and noob regarding this one. Using the original swaybar links would (I believe/understood) preload the sway bar as they would rotate the bar a bit downwards.
Is that a good thing (desired by BC and other suspension manufacturers?) or is it in your opinion and experience recommended to maintain the identical sway bar angle/rotation as stock by using shorter/adjustable links?

Regards, Chris

[yokomo963]

Originally Posted by CWOERN

Sorry to be a pain and noob regarding this one. Using the original swaybar links would (I believe/understood) preload the sway bar as they would rotate the bar a bit downwards.
Is that a good thing (desired by BC and other suspension manufacturers?) or is it in your opinion and experience recommended to maintain the identical sway bar angle/rotation as stock by using shorter/adjustable links?

Regards, Chris

No worries. Suspension adjustments are something I'm always learning about also.

here is a cool video that he kinda goes over why you need adjustables and how it's installed. Ideally you'd want 0 preload

[CWOERN]

Originally Posted by yokomo963

No worries. Suspension adjustments are something I'm always learning about also.

here is a cool video that he kinda goes over why you need adjustables and how it's installed. Ideally you'd want 0 preload

Thanks again for helping out! I had searched yesterday as well for some videos but other than getting answered why we have sway bars I couldn't find information if a rotation (preload) of the sway bar is ok or to be avoided.

"Your" video is an interesting one, as he mentioned, no preload is wanted. Assuming that the stock sway bar is installed in a way that there is no preload, I'd like to think that's something I want to maintain (after the BC kit installation) by using shorter/adjustable links?!
I received a call from the BC vendor yesterday after I asked for confirmation (in parallel to my questions here) that I received really the correct kit. And yes, I did, but my question regarding the sway bar links wasn't really answered. The seller told me that he will get BC's opinion on that, let's see if I get their view as well. However, I ordered as well some adjustable links which can be installed either at the same original length or based on BC's view. If I don't get their answer I am leaning forward to adjust them a bit shorter to accommodate the different anchoring point.

On the other hand, I may worry too much, I am not planning to race the car on a track nor am I a hoon trying to compete against youngsters here in their Commodores on the street

Anybody else has an opinion if or if not the sway bar links should be adjusted/shortened?

Regards, Chris

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by CWOERN

Thanks again for helping out! I had searched yesterday as well for some videos but other than getting answered why we have sway bars I couldn't find information if a rotation (preload) of the sway bar is ok or to be avoided.

"Your" video is an interesting one, as he mentioned, no preload is wanted. Assuming that the stock sway bar is installed in a way that there is no preload, I'd like to think that's something I want to maintain (after the BC kit installation) by using shorter/adjustable links?!
I received a call from the BC vendor yesterday after I asked for confirmation (in parallel to my questions here) that I received really the correct kit. And yes, I did, but my question regarding the sway bar links wasn't really answered. The seller told me that he will get BC's opinion on that, let's see if I get their view as well. However, I ordered as well some adjustable links which can be installed either at the same original length or based on BC's view. If I don't get their answer I am leaning forward to adjust them a bit shorter to accommodate the different anchoring point.

On the other hand, I may worry too much, I am not planning to race the car on a track nor am I a hoon trying to compete against youngsters here in their Commodores on the street

Anybody else has an opinion if or if not the sway bar links should be adjusted/shortened?

Regards, Chris

Properly adjusted endlinks on a lowered car help a good bit. I have Whiteline's on my front and there is a noticeable difference. I'm now looking for rear adjustable endlinks.

BTW - front's endlinks need to be longer for lowered cars. Rears should be shorter. This will make sense when you look at how the endlinks connect to the arb and the strut or wheel carrier.

[yokomo963]

My guess to why BC couldn’t follow stock mounting points for the endlinks is because they have a separate ride height adjustment. With the fully threaded body, they ran out of room to put the endlinks mount to be close to stock location.

[CWOERN]

Originally Posted by yokomo963

My guess to why BC couldn’t follow stock mounting points for the endlinks is because they have a separate ride height adjustment. With the fully threaded body, they ran out of room to put the endlinks mount to be close to stock location.

Or these shocks/screwed ends are also meant to fit into other BMW cars or even other brands? That would also explain why the screwed end doesn't reach properly into the entire length of the carrier (see photo, link below).
I am not too happy about that, but maybe I worry about things which aren't a problem.
The first strut is in (minus the link), still quite high as I thought it is easier to lower the car than running out of room to place a jack under it.
Currently, I have around 375mm (14.7") from the wheel center to the wing/arch, I suppose the car will naturally set a bit more but as it looks like, I am probably looking in future (once all struts are done) to screw the suspension another 3.0 cm down.
I believe I will need the shorter links as it appears almost impossible to use the old ones?! Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bciao84kW8XrKEAz9

Regards, Chris

[CWOERN]

Just wanted to give a short update. Installation went fine after I got the confirmation from the seller that this is definitely the correct kit. The only thing he could not answer was the concerns with the sway bar links, he promised to contact the manufacturer for advice, I never got a response though.
I decided in the end to order and install shorter (adjustable) links, so the angle of the sway bar would not be changed.
I adjusted the height to something similar to what it was with the worn-out M-Sport suspension but realised that I should have driven the car a bit more before taking it for alignment as it probably drops further and may require another adjustment/alignment.
Currently, the car is 570mm on all 4 sides, that seems to be 12mm lower than stock at the front and 4mm at the rear (delta to minimum spec).
For some reasons they couldn't adjust the right camber at the rear, if I understood correctly, they would rub otherwise with the used rim/wheel and ride height choice.

I left the spring tension as they came from BC (recommended by them) and chose a dampening setting 22 (1= soft and 32 hard). Car is certainly a bit harder than before but feels very different to the worn-out shocks I had before.

Here a link of my settings (including factory specs) in case, anybody is interested.


Regards, Chris

[yokomo963]

Originally Posted by CWOERN

Just wanted to give a short update. Installation went fine after I got the confirmation from the seller that this is definitely the correct kit. The only thing he could not answer was the concerns with the sway bar links, he promised to contact the manufacturer for advice, I never got a response though.
I decided in the end to order and install shorter (adjustable) links, so the angle of the sway bar would not be changed.
I adjusted the height to something similar to what it was with the worn-out M-Sport suspension but realised that I should have driven the car a bit more before taking it for alignment as it probably drops further and may require another adjustment/alignment.
Currently, the car is 570mm on all 4 sides, that seems to be 12mm lower than stock at the front and 4mm at the rear (delta to minimum spec).
For some reasons they couldn't adjust the right camber at the rear, if I understood correctly, they would rub otherwise with the used rim/wheel and ride height choice.

I left the spring tension as they came from BC (recommended by them) and chose a dampening setting 22 (1= soft and 32 hard). Car is certainly a bit harder than before but feels very different to the worn-out shocks I had before.

Here a link of my settings (including factory specs) in case, anybody is interested.


Regards, Chris

Are you on stock wheels and tires? I don’t understand why they couldn’t adjust rear camber