BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      12-08-2013, 09:56 PM   #23
andrey_gta
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look up window reset procedure. it may help some day, but not icy stuff..
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      12-18-2013, 07:28 AM   #24
dknl
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Silicon is not good for rubber.

Stick with the gummi stuff or any rubber seals treatment thats says contains no silicon.
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      12-18-2013, 11:34 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dknl View Post
Silicon is not good for rubber.

Stick with the gummi stuff or any rubber seals treatment thats says contains no silicon.

Damn....really? I recently sprayed a "lube" (specifically designated for rubber) on all the doors, trunk, and window seals. I think the label mentioned one of the ingredients being silicon. I think my car is doomed.....
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      12-22-2013, 04:32 PM   #26
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Thanks to everyone for your tips on how to deal with frozen window...but this is going to take good old fashion elbow grease. Woke up to a severe ice storm here in Toronto and theres probably a 1/4" of ice on the windows of my 128.
This is going to take a few beers....Happy Holidays!




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      12-22-2013, 05:22 PM   #27
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I found a fix... indoor parking at home!

Cost me $35k but it works!

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      12-22-2013, 05:45 PM   #28
pj.rodriguez
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LOL. I was just gonna ask if you parked outside last night.
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      12-23-2013, 12:19 AM   #29
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I was parked outside down on Lakeshore last night didn't have many problems at all. The ice on the windshield came off in a couple big sheets. Think I was pretty lucky.
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      12-30-2013, 10:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
look up window reset procedure. it may help some day, but not icy stuff..
Thanks for the heads up! I just reset my driver side today. The regulator must have gotten all messed up with all the ice lately.

Here's the procedure I followed: (copied from a previous thread)
Initialization comprises:
• Erasure of initialization
• Reinitialization

An initialization must be performed:
• In the event of malfunctions, e.g. no one-touch control function, no opening or if available no comfort function is possible
• After the power window drive has been replaced
• After work is carried out on the power window mechanism
• After a power supply interruption, e.g. disconnection of the battery or disconnection of the power supply to the door
• After the door window glass has been removed and installed or replaced
• After adjustment work on the door window glass
• After adjustment work on the convertible top
• After replacement of seals

Erasure of initialization:
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate power window switch in "Open" position four times within 10 seconds

This erases initialization of the power window, anti-trapping protection and toll function are inactive.
Check whether one-touch control (toll) function is inactive, otherwise repeat procedure.

Reinitialization:

Avoid a break between the two steps!
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage)
• Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage)
• Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer
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      11-18-2014, 11:00 AM   #31
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Now that winter of 2014 is here, I'm bumping this thread so everyone can deal with the "frozen" window or you can just "let it go".
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      11-18-2014, 05:43 PM   #32
andrey_gta
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Best advice is to close & open doors slowly - it should give it enough time to lower.
Closing a stuck door is okay, just be slow.

Before night fall maybe lower windows down & up 1 inch and Wipe any water near the seal.

If you feel safe in your neighbourhood- you could lower the glass 1cm to avoid the door frame edge
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      11-19-2014, 02:12 PM   #33
KNTDRV
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My window wouldn't retract when I opened the door yesterday (cold damp morning).
I took an old "Credit Card" and gently swiped it between the class and door/window seal. Scraped the built up frost and the window retracted properly.
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      11-25-2014, 06:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
Best advice is to close & open doors slowly - it should give it enough time to lower.
Closing a stuck door is okay, just be slow.

Before night fall maybe lower windows down & up 1 inch and Wipe any water near the seal.

If you feel safe in your neighbourhood- you could lower the glass 1cm to avoid the door frame edge
The problem is I can't get the glass near the roofline at the B pillar to fit flush sometimes, huge gap and big time wind leak.
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