Rod bearing replacement in my future?

[AndyW]

So, my last three Blackstone samples have had elevated lead over the past 10K. This is also my track car. Latest had a value of 32 over just 1000 miles. Previous sample had a value of 110 over 4K. No copper to speak of in the samples yet (all consistently between 1-4). So, I think I am just going to bite the bullet and have an Indy replace the rod bearings. Engine has 107K on it. Probably 30 track days over the past 5 years. Anything else I should be considering as a problem or looking at? Anything I should do in conjunction with a rod bearing job? TIA.

[amg6975]

Definitely get it done. My N55 spun one after like 20 track days. I think they have pretty bad oil starvation under heavy braking.

[Genes1s]

I’ve been reading about this specific issue of N55 inadequate engine oiling system in N55, especially when the engine is fully drained.

I’m new to this platform myself but back in the old day of E36s, we used retrofit dual pick up system from E46 M3 and baffled oil pan as it did help maintaining oil volume and prevent pump cavitation during high G.

If the oiling system is weak doing rod bearing only solve half of the equation.

[Petro135]

I've had this done as well. When my oil pan was dropped it seemed someone was in there and put the caps back on my rods backwards, resulting in a slight spin. Luckily it was caught as soon as I heard a funny noise and just happened to be on my way to the bmw indy shop. Pricey fix. But happened at 90k miles so I'm sure it couldn't hurt to have new bearings. Thats how I learned they make those rods forged and one piece and then break them off, so its a perfect fit, and you can't put the caps on backwards. Im n54 btw

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by Genes1s

I’ve been reading about this specific issue of N55 inadequate engine oiling system in N55, especially when the engine is fully drained.

I’m new to this platform myself but back in the old day of E36s, we used retrofit dual pick up system from E46 M3 and baffled oil pan as it did help maintaining oil volume and prevent pump cavitation during high G.

If the oiling system is weak doing rod bearing only solve half of the equation.

I added an Accusump this year for this exact reason...looks like a little too late.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by Petro135

I've had this done as well. When my oil pan was dropped it seemed someone was in there and put the caps back on my rods backwards, resulting in a slight spin. Luckily it was caught as soon as I heard a funny noise and just happened to be on my way to the bmw indy shop. Pricey fix. But happened at 90k miles so I'm sure it couldn't hurt to have new bearings. Thats how I learned they make those rods forged and one piece and then break them off, so its a perfect fit, and you can't put the caps on backwards. Im n54 btw

Luckily no noises yet. Gonna minimize driving it now.

[Genes1s]

Originally Posted by AndyW

I added an Accusump this year for this exact reason...looks like a little too late.

I'm planning to do to the same. Do you mind sharing with us your experience with installing it, quality, and why you decided to go with Accusump instead of others?

[tracer bullet]

Agree its probably bearings but not necessarily. Is there tin in the analysis as well? I want to say bearings are a combo of those for the first layer, but it's been a while. If you start to see copper then yep you've certainly worn off that top layer.

Anything added to the engine itself like an extra cooler or any other possible sources of lead (i.e. a part that's got some solder related to it)?

Oil pan drain plug w/ a magnet could be interesting. Or moving one around in the oil after the next change (be super sure your catcher is clean first).

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Agree its probably bearings but not necessarily. Is there tin in the analysis as well? I want to say bearings are a combo of those for the first layer, but it's been a while. If you start to see copper then yep you've certainly worn off that top layer.

Anything added to the engine itself like an extra cooler or any other possible sources of lead (i.e. a part that's got some solder related to it)?

Oil pan drain plug w/ a magnet could be interesting. Or moving one around in the oil after the next change (be super sure your catcher is clean first).

No tin. I do have a second oil cooler I added but it is the same as the current one. Nothing else that would be soldered.

I am thinking I am safe for a bit since no copper. I will likely pull a sample in another 1000 miles. Obviously if I start hearing a new noise, I will stop. In the meantime, going to get the parts and figure out if my Indy shop can do it...I really don't feel like doing this under the Quickjack with only 22" of clearance... I also don't have the camshaft locking tool...don't you need that for this job?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by Genes1s

I'm planning to do to the same. Do you mind sharing with us your experience with installing it, quality, and why you decided to go with Accusump instead of others?

Sure. This is my install thread. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...91&postcount=1

Product quality is high.

Why? Accusump is a race-proven plug and play product that is the most cost effective solution for the oil starvation problem on an N55.

[Genes1s]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Sure. This is my install thread. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...91&postcount=1

Product quality is high.

Why? Accusump is a race-proven plug and play product that is the most cost effective solution for the oil starvation problem on an N55.

Thanks!

Just noticed that you are in WA State? Seattle area?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by Genes1s

Thanks!

Just noticed that you are in WA State? Seattle area?

Yes.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by AndyW

No tin. I do have a second oil cooler I added but it is the same as the current one. Nothing else that would be soldered.

I am thinking I am safe for a bit since no copper. I will likely pull a sample in another 1000 miles. Obviously if I start hearing a new noise, I will stop. In the meantime, going to get the parts and figure out if my Indy shop can do it...I really don't feel like doing this under the Quickjack with only 22" of clearance... I also don't have the camshaft locking tool...don't you need that for this job?

You do not need a cam locking tool, you never mess with the timing. It's actually a pretty easy job, worst part is removing the subframe.

You need to support the engine from the top, take off the two front control arms on each side, unbolt the steering rack, unhook the steering rack input shaft, then unbolt the engine mounts, and drop the subframe. The steering rack can hang from the tie rods. Then you just zip the bolts out of the oil pan, and windage tray, rotate the engine to access to the rod caps, pull the bearings, replace, install new rod bolts, torque, repeat 5x, and put it back together. Can be done in 4-5 hours if you know what you're looking at in there.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by amg6975

You do not need a cam locking tool, you never mess with the timing. It's actually a pretty easy job, worst part is removing the subframe.

You need to support the engine from the top, take off the two front control arms on each side, unbolt the steering rack, unhook the steering rack input shaft, then unbolt the engine mounts, and drop the subframe. The steering rack can hang from the tie rods. Then you just zip the bolts out of the oil pan, and windage tray, rotate the engine to access to the rod caps, pull the bearings, replace, install new rod bolts, torque, repeat 5x, and put it back together. Can be done in 4-5 hours if you know what you're looking at in there.

How does it not affect timing...don't you remove the oil pump and the oil sprocket? How do you get the upper bearing off if you can't get the crankshaft out of the way? I need to watch some YouTube videos...lol.

UPDATE: OK, I think i understand now...the oil pump sprocket remains captured and the chain stays on when you remove the oil pump.

Is there any way to determine the correct replacement bearings to get before opening the engine?

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by AndyW

How does it not affect timing...don't you remove the oil pump and the oil sprocket? How do you get the upper bearing off if you can't get the crankshaft out of the way? I need to watch some YouTube videos...lol.

UPDATE: OK, I think i understand now...the oil pump sprocket remains captured and the chain stays on when you remove the oil pump.

Is there any way to determine the correct replacement bearings to get before opening the engine?

You can move the crank all you want, as long as you don't remove the timing chain you'll just move the cams too and everything stays in time. The oil pump does not run off the timing chain.

From what I remember there are two versions of bearings based on production date. Put your VIN in realoem to get the factory PN your car has. Order accordingly. You may want to plastigauge them to double check everything is correctly gapped.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by amg6975

You can move the crank all you want, as long as you don't remove the timing chain you'll just move the cams too and everything stays in time. The oil pump does not run off the timing chain.

From what I remember there are two versions of bearings based on production date. Put your VIN in realoem to get the factory PN your car has. Order accordingly. You may want to plastigauge them to double check everything is correctly gapped.

I had a conceptual error...I looked at the realoem pics and now see there are two chains. Thx for the help!

There are a LOT of bearings options listed in there. From what I've read I have to look at the front of the crank for your particular car for a 6 digit code. One digit for each bearing set, in order to know which mix you have. Any advice on factory vs something like the VAC coated ones?

[houtan]

So I’m guessing the accusump wasn’t installed for a majority of the 10k miles?

Sorry you have the issue and look forward to reading how you go about replacing the bearings.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by houtan

So I’m guessing the accusump wasn’t installed for a majority of the 10k miles?

Sorry you have the issue and look forward to reading how you go about replacing the bearings.

Yes. The rise in lead predated the Accusump. Blackstone and I had attributed it to race gas previously but I specifically avoided race gas from the previous sample to be sure.

[AndyW]

So, in preparation for this job i have been doing research. I think I want to use the coated VAC motorsport bearings, so I am trying to get smart on using a plastigauge and what to do with the data. I've been having a devil of a time determining what the *correct* spacing is. Seems to be some threads saying between .0015 and .002 is good. Is that correct? Also, what if it *isn't* within that range...what do I do to fix it? I realize this is probably basic stuff to some but if I do this, it will be the most invasive surgery I have done on this car. TIA for any advice.

[houtan]

Have you watched these?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by houtan

Have you watched these?

No...but I will now! Thx.

[AndyW]

Blackstone rep recommended going another 1000 miles, assuming no noises, and take another oil sample. So that is the current plan. Fingers crossed...