Installed rear M3 upper arms, need more toe adjustability

[fe1rx]

Originally Posted by Pig Farmer

Since there's more than enough adjustment on the Manzo toe arms, where would you set the eccentric washer to avoid possible movement during spirited driving? Full toe-in, full toe-out, or somewhere in the middle? I'm thinking full toe-in.

Spirited driving should not move the toe, but a thump on a curb might. Either full toe-in or full toe-out will prevent that thump from resulting in any tendency for the adjuster bolt to rotate. Mid way is the worst choice.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by houtan

I see. What toe and camber specs are you trying to get in the rear? Just curious because my alignment shop was able to get me within factory spec ( my camber is at-1.8 and toe is at .15 degrees). The only difference between my setup and yours is I have swift springs.

The most camber I can get on the left rear is -1.6 and that is with toe at -0.9. To get any more toe, I have to reduce the camber.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

The most camber I can get on the left rear is -1.6 and that is with toe at -0.9. To get any more toe, I have to reduce the camber.

Interesting. I guess my camber would be a little more since the swift springs give a slight drop. But the toe issue is weird because if it was adjusted to spec at a camber of -1.8 shouldn't it be able to get adjusted at a camber of -1.6?

here is a picture of my alignment sheet just in case I am reading it wrong.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by houtan

Interesting. I guess my camber would be a little more since the swift springs give a slight drop. But the toe issue is weird because if it was adjusted to spec at a camber of -1.8 shouldn't it be able to get adjusted at a camber of -1.6?

here is a picture of my alignment sheet just in case I am reading it wrong.

If you read my original post, the most camber I can get in the rear is -1.6 before running out of toe adjustment. That is the whole purpose of this thread.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

If you read my original post, the most camber I can get in the rear is -1.6 before running out of toe adjustment. That is the whole purpose of this thread.

I read it. The problem most likely is that I may not fully understand your issue lol.

From what I understand, toe adjustment limitations may occur on the 1er with an aggressive drop. I just wanted to share that with M3 arms and swift springs, the alignment shop was able to get my alignment within factory spec. So I would assume your car should be able to get within factory spec as well using factory HW. But I guess you already know that too lol.

anyway, good luck, I am subscribed to see what the solution is.

[thormessiah]

I purchased the mango rear toe control arms and I’m wondering what other m3 pieces I need for the rear and? Is it just the 2 upper control arms ? Or are there other pieces needed?

[houtan]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

I purchased the mango rear toe control arms and I’m wondering what other m3 pieces I need for the rear and? Is it just the 2 upper control arms ? Or are there other pieces needed?

Read this thread. Should help you decide. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1079383

[MAMSport]

I'm looking back at the parts list installed by the previous owner of my 128i M-Sport in his build. The rear suspension parts that were changed included the following:

ECS performance rear trailing arm set. ES #2777155
BMW OE E9x M3 Aluminum Rear Wishbone set (was $379)
BMW OE E9x Aluminum Rear Guide Rod set (was $325)

He also did the BMW OE Front Control Arm and Tension Strut retrofit set ($775) and upgraded to larger sway bars, ES#2828690: front 28 mm; rear 15 mm with polyurethane bushings ($370). At some point, a Wave Trac limited slip with about a 4% bump in ratio was also added for a bit more torque multiplication.

(Prices from 5/2016)

I would strongly recommend the M3 control arm bushings (might come with the wishbones?) and RTABs. It's also a good time to install stainless steel braided brake hoses while the subframe is detached.

Best of fortune!

[MAMSport]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

If you read my original post, the most camber I can get in the rear is -1.6 before running out of toe adjustment. That is the whole purpose of this thread.

MMT, just curious what you ended up doing to get your alignment to your desired specs? Never completed the upgrade thread or answered the question you posed.