Convertible 09 plastic flaps don’t slide back in

[blackberryq10android]

Hello,

After the convertible top (2009 128i) is fully in the truck (top down), the last phase of the convertible top down procedure is for the plastic flaps to slide back into place. Whenever I put my top down I have to park my car and walk out of it to manually glide the sliders into place so the wind doesn’t get into the convertible top mechanism in the back which causes a bad sound from the wind driving or can cause damage to it.

Is there a way to grease the part or does someone have a fix for this? It is a minor issues but it is annoying.

One of them seems to have misaligned so how would one go about relining it without major reopening of the convertible top!

Thanks,

[low135]

I had the opposite issue on one side of mine. The piece would not slide in when putting the top up, which caused the top to keep popping that trim panel. This meant I had to hold the sliding piece open while I put the top up. This was a pain in the ass so I took the panel off and detached it from the copper "spring" roll. So now my one side functions like yours. I'd rather that than have to hold the thing open every time I put my top up.

In your case, either the copper "springs" aren't attached anymore or the cable that pulls them isn't working. I'd bet it's the copper "spring". Take the panel off and have a look. You'll have to remove the seatbelt which is one easy bolt

[Exshipdriver]

I’m dealing with the same issue now. When closing the top, the plastic trim piece that the flap and front seatbelt connect through starts popping up because the left side flap is not retracting. There’s a cable that connects from the underside of the flap and the copper “Spring” low135 mentions, to the hinge support on the Deck lid that covers everything when the top is retracted. As the cover goes up, it pulls the cable and retracts the flaps. When the deck lid goes back down, it releases tension on the cables (1per side) and the flaps return to the closed position.

Unfortunately, the cable, which is like a bicycle brake cable, connects to the hinge with a tiny piece of thin plastic, and mine broke.

To get at it, loosen the seat belt loop with an Allen or Torx wrench, remove all the plastic trim, and you’ll be able to follow the cable from the copper, through the foam guide and clips, back to the hinge. If you look at the non broken (other) side, no trim removal required, you can see where it goes to and from. Just stop the top while the deck lid is in the vertical position and then prop it in place while you’re working on it. Probably easiest to work on it with the top UP and the rear cover in the up position.

Shouldn’t be too hard to replace. Just having a hard time finding the part number for the cable and metal disk that holds the plastic onto the hinge portion. Guessing it’s special order from my dealer and I can’t find a schematic on any web sites to locate the actual part numbers.

More to follow, but here are a couple of photos, if I can get them to load.

[AZ1]

Originally Posted by Exshipdriver

I’m dealing with the same issue now. When closing the top, the plastic trim piece that the flap and front seatbelt connect through starts popping up because the left side flap is not retracting. There’s a cable that connects from the underside of the flap and the copper “Spring” low135 mentions, to the hinge support on the Deck lid that covers everything when the top is retracted. As the cover goes up, it pulls the cable and retracts the flaps. When the deck lid goes back down, it releases tension on the cables (1per side) and the flaps return to the closed position.

Unfortunately, the cable, which is like a bicycle brake cable, connects to the hinge with a tiny piece of thin plastic, and mine broke.

To get at it, loosen the seat belt loop with an Allen or Torx wrench, remove all the plastic trim, and you’ll be able to follow the cable from the copper, through the foam guide and clips, back to the hinge. If you look at the non broken (other) side, no trim removal required, you can see where it goes to and from. Just stop the top while the deck lid is in the vertical position and then prop it in place while you’re working on it. Probably easiest to work on it with the top UP and the rear cover in the up position.

Shouldn’t be too hard to replace. Just having a hard time finding the part number for the cable and metal disk that holds the plastic onto the hinge portion. Guessing it’s special order from my dealer and I can’t find a schematic on any web sites to locate the actual part numbers.

More to follow, but here are a couple of photos, if I can get them to load.

Don’t know if you finished this but is this your part?

https://www.bmwpartsdirect.com/oem-p...MtMGwtbDYtZ2Fz

[trickstar]

Did you ever find a solution for refastening the end of the cable to the hinge?

[trickstar]

I did. I used a piece of music wire,.032,1/32" thick. It's spring steel quality, strong but thin. I used a thin drill bit to remove the remaining collar 'washer' that's left from the broken off cable attachment. Drilled on both sides of the remaining black plastic washer around the pivot post that is sticking out of the lid hinge to remove it. Taking out that pin that it is around is not possible, I believe that is welded in. You're left with a pin and a washer. Wrap the music wire around the pin between the washer and the hinge. Really tight around that pin. Leave about 3 or 4" of pigtail of music wire to work with.

The broken black plastic cable attachment will leave an oblong, oval sleeve or collar around the end of the cable. On the oblong lobe of the broken off part of the attachment, I was able to drill a tiny hole to put the pigtail of the music wire through. At this point, both ends of the pigtail wire must be bent and secured in any way that you can. The wire wrapped around the hinge pin WILL come unwound under the stress of the pull of the sliding panel, unless you bend it around itself and secure it.

You may prefer to fabricate a collar, or even drill a hole through the washer that is left on the hinge. This would allow you to put an end of the music wire through it, possibly easier to work with. You may prefer to use one piece of wire for the hinge side connection, and another for the cable side, looping them through each other at some point along the way.

Hope that this helps someone.

Jimmy

[mark galloway]

Any simple fix for the tension cable. Mine broke last week.

[TridenTBoy]

Been dealing with this for years. Super annoying. Tried lots of fixes - but nothing will work unless it's metal. A lot of stress goes on these parts.

[slow135ii]

hey man i have the exact issue as you! my tabs didnt go in place so forced them a few times and now 1 trim is stuck closed and everytime i close the top i have to hold it open or itll rip the whole trim out of place. how did you fix it?

[krhodes1]

Timely thread - both of mine work, but one side is much slower than the other to slide into when the top is put down. Assume the track needs to be lubricated?

For that matter, what maintenance should be done on these tops to keep everything happily humming along?

[TridenTBoy]

Used metal music wire to wrap the broken side of the cable to the metal frame. It's worked out so far. Only used it a few times but it looks like it might hold...

"Small Parts 21041 High Carbon Steel Wire, Mill Finish #2B (Smooth) Finish, Grade #2B Smooth, Full Hard Temper, Meets ASTM A228 Specifications, 0.041"

That said - I think it was a bit too thick. I'd get 0.03" or something of that sort. Also - someone here said they drilled a hole through the bracket that it normally attaches to. I have no idea how you did that. The metal is extremely hardened or something. My bits drilled in for all of 3 seconds and then stopped. Broke one bit too. Must be using carbide or some crazy stuff.

[kb2wji]

Thanks for the pics - my flap thingy just started slowing down. When I drop the top, one of the flaps takes about 10 additional seconds to flop closed. Hopefully that cable isn't too terrible to replace.

[zack9r]

Originally Posted by kb2wji

Thanks for the pics - my flap thingy just started slowing down. When I drop the top, one of the flaps takes about 10 additional seconds to flop closed. Hopefully that cable isn't too terrible to replace.

That's how mine is aswell. Hoping to find a fix and do it soon

[blackberryq10android]

Seems like this is more common than people could have thought that is not caused by wear and tear but by flawed materials. Does anyone have a convertible that has their flaps working in flawless condition? Also, wonder if this issue pertains only to 08s 09s maybe 10s.

[TridenTBoy]

For reference, I ended up using different wire. The wire I had was way too thick. I got a set of safety wire pliers that came with like 25ft of wire. Used that wire and it worked much better. Ended up using the safety wire pliers too as part of it to see if that would add some extra gumption to keep the setup working. So far, I think so good...

[kb2wji]

Originally Posted by blackberryq10android

Seems like this is more common than people could have thought that is not caused by wear and tear but by flawed materials. Does anyone have a convertible that has their flaps working in flawless condition? Also, wonder if this issue pertains only to 08s 09s maybe 10s.

mine is an '11. The flaps still close so I'm not messing with them yet. I know it's coming though. They get slower each time I use the top so my fingers are crossed. I only use the top a few times per year though... pretty much sits in the garage top down 99% of the time.

[blackberryq10android]

Originally Posted by kb2wji

mine is an '11. The flaps still close so I'm not messing with them yet. I know it's coming though. They get slower each time I use the top so my fingers are crossed. I only use the top a few times per year though... pretty much sits in the garage top down 99% of the time.

Yep that's the first sign, the flaps move slower and slower over time. I would advise to have your car at a complete standstill until the flaps are fully in.

[kb2wji]

Originally Posted by blackberryq10android

Yep that's the first sign, the flaps move slower and slower over time. I would advise to have your car at a complete standstill until the flaps are fully in.

good to know, thanks!

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

Timely thread - both of mine work, but one side is much slower than the other to slide into when the top is put down. Assume the track needs to be lubricated?

For that matter, what maintenance should be done on these tops to keep everything happily humming along?

Mine is the same. Thinking maybe a bit of silicone oil (super lube silicone with PTFE), not sprays, since they have lots of petroleum distillates that aren’t good for the plastic and rubber parts, might be a good option...

Mine have slowed, and one is decent, the other takes a minute or two. Don’t want them to get worse!

[krhodes1]

Interestingly, my slow flap has fixed itself. I didn't do a thing, but they both now close at the same speed, and smoothly.

I don't think the PO used the top very much, and it just took some going up and down to get things moving nicely.

[gtsdrs]

I think I have another simple solution. This will only work if everything else is OK - flap, spring, cable - and the end of the cable with the plastic piece attaching to the mechanism is broken.


I used an aluminum electrical (crimp style) to secure the end. First, you will need to remove the plastic from the eyelet (most come with plastic on the crimp connection).



Then, slightly open the crimp so that you can slide the cable into the eyelet. On the car side, remove the plastic around the end of the cable - I used side cutter. The end of the cable will just have a puck. DO NOT cut the cable, only remove the remaining plastic from the connector.


Now, slide the cable into the electrical eyelet, and crimp around the 'puck' at the end of the cable.


The eyelet now slips onto the mechanism and you're done!

BTW - In the 4th installed photo - the crimped connection looks a little gnarly. That's because I decided to solder two connectors together (making a double thick eyelet). This requires soldering/skills, and I don't think it's necessary. It almost appears that the eyelet isn't crimped around the cable, but that's because the outside eyelet isn't. Rest assured, the inner of the two wrapped around cable end puck really well.

[tshinkle]

Same issue with my 2008 128i convertible. The plastic slide covers stick and it pushes up the entire plastic covering unless I push it manually. I thought it might be the covers themselves but sounds like I'll have to take the entire cover off and see if there is a spring or wire that is broken that is supposed to move the cover with the top as opposed to the top mechanics pushing on it. Thx