XClutch Twin Disc Review & Installation (6MT N54)

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After my Spec Stage 3+ clutch started to slip after only 5k miles at 750whp, I was forced to search for another new clutch. The Spec clutch was only rated at 671 tq, I thought it would be capable of holding more power. My search of 1000+ tq rated clutches led me to research twin disc options for the N54.

As some of you might be aware, there is a new twin disc clutch option for those of us with manual N54's. Xtreme Performance Clutch (or XClutch) is an Australian company that specializes in clutches for performance vehicles overseas. With the recent group buy, I decided to give their clutch a shot given the price is much cheaper than the Motiv or MFactory twin discs.

For more detailed information, check out my complete blog post about this topic. I also included a video at the bottom of this post that shows the noise and pedal engagement.

I ordered the ceramic version of the clutch, which is capable of holding more torque and is meant for track-driven cars. However, there is also an organic version available.

I received the clutch a few days after ordering and was very impressed with the quality! It includes the clutch & flywheel assemblies, metal throwout bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, machined alignment tool and locktite.



I couldn't wait to get it installed! Here is the list of items I replaced while I was in there:

- Bellhousing Bolts (one-time use): https://bit.ly/2Ht7mYL
- D0wnpipe Gaskets: https://bit.ly/2w83I0R
- Rear Main Seal: https://bit.ly/2VIgzGi
- Upgraded Clutch Delay Valve: https://bit.ly/2LudXYd
- Royal Purple Transmission Fluid (2 qts): https://amzn.to/2E6O6PK
- Upgraded Brass Clutch Fork Pivot Pin: https://bit.ly/2VHh1EJ
- Poly Transmission Mounts: https://bit.ly/2sOXEJH
- Clutch Pedal Stop: https://bit.ly/2Vcjkec







Break-in Overview

The recommended break-in mileage is 1000 kilometers (621 miles). This should include mostly city driving where you are frequently using the clutch. Racking up highway miles aren't going to help break in the clutch. I noticed that the driveability gets better and all noises quiet down a little after 500 miles. It will never be as quiet or as smooth as a stock clutch... but it's much more capable than the stock clutch.

Noise Overview

If you install the metal throwout bearing that is included with the kit, it will produce a metallic whirring noise when the clutch is depressed. This does not bother me, but it might bother some of you who don't like noise. Please watch my video at the bottom of this post to hear the noise.

The metal throwout bearing included with the kit is recommended and more robust, but this is the OEM-style throwout bearing if you'd like to avoid the noise: https://bit.ly/2Hy6rX3

As with any SMFW or twin disc, you will have low RPM gearbox chatter. While idling and while driving at high load/low RPM, you can hear it. If this bothers you, you will have to stick with an OEM-style DMFW clutch setup. Otherwise, you can raise the idle via MHD to 900 RPMs or so to reduce the chattering.

However, at power levels of 600whp+, the stock DMFW is not recommended and there are not a lot of upgraded clutch options available that mate up to the stock DMFW. I've used many different clutch/flywheel setups in these N54s, and have no qualms with the increased noise of a SMFW or twin disc. It's all part of the game when you're chasing horsepower!

Driveability Overview

I knew the ceramic version of the clutch would be a little more difficult to drive than the organic version, so please take that into consideration when reading my review or purchasing the clutch.

The pedal is stiffer/heavier than stock, but not by much. It's effortless to depress, which is good. Engagement doesn't happen until the top of the pedal during release. My stock clutch and my Spec Stage 3+ clutch both engaged a lot closer to the floor, so this took some getting used to. Installing the clutch stop helped, but still has a large area of dead space in the pedal. Again, watch my video at the bottom of this post to see how much dead space there is.

Once the engagement starts, the window is fairly small. You don't have a lot of slipping area, and this can result in a shuttering take-off until you learn the clutch. I've heard that the organic version is a little more forgiving in this sense.

The clutch itself is very grabby, just like it should be. I was getting slippage between gears in my old Spec Stage 3+ and this one grabs right away, which is great. I have no concerns about it holding any power I'm capable of making right now (750whp+).

Check out the video I put together of the clutch. It includes an install timelaspe, some driving, and my impressions of the noise/pedal engagement. If you're into BMWs or N54 stuff, give me a thumbs up on YouTube and subscribe to my channel!

Overall, it takes some getting used to but once you learn the clutch, it's definitely streetable. I drive my car frequently in the summer and am happy to have a clutch that will hold the power. If you don't have high power goals, I would recommend the organic version of this clutch. If you plan on making 700wtq+ or more, I would definitely go with the ceramic version.

I hope this thread is helpful to those who are considering this clutch, or other clutch setups. Please drop questions below and I'll do my best to answer them from an enthusiast point of view.

[MN.BIMMER]

What makes this throwout bearing so noisy vs other options?

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Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

What makes this throwout bearing so noisy vs other options?

The fact that it's fully metal vs the stock one that is a combination of metal, rubber and internal grease.

[nlewis]

The rattle when you have your foot on the clutch is not from the throw out bearing.

When you unload the pressure off the plates by using the throw out bearing, the mid and top plates rattle on the clutch pack housing.

The plates slip into the grooves and when the weight is unloaded they rattle around in the grooves.

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by nlewis

The rattle when you have your foot on the clutch is not from the throw out bearing.

When you unload the pressure off the plates by using the throw out bearing, the mid and top plates rattle on the clutch pack housing.

The plates slip into the grooves and when the weight is unloaded they rattle around in the grooves.

FYI - XClutch commented on my YouTube video about the clutch. I think they're reaffirming the exact thing you're saying.

"Great video and thanks for putting this together to give people some further understanding of how the kits are to drive. We are the parent company of XClutch and just thought we would let you know that the metallic sound that you can hear when the clutch is pressed is actually the intermediate plate moving around rather than the throw out bearing . This is perfectly normal for this style of twin plate as the intermediate plate is floating, so no need to worry about that."

So if I'm reading this correctly, that means the metal TOB has nothing to do with the metallic whirring noise when the clutch is depressed.

[nlewis]

Correct!

Its a completely normal sound for a multi-plate clutch.

I have been watching your videos too, getting information for my own build. Thanks for sharing, I hope you didn't take my comments as an offense, just wanted to clarify.

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by nlewis

Correct!

Its a completely normal sound for a multi-plate clutch.

I have been watching your videos too, getting information for my own build. Thanks for sharing, I hope you didn't take my comments as an offense, just wanted to clarify.

No offense taken at all! I'm learning too, and appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for watching