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BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      10-14-2015, 09:11 AM   #23
Dackelone
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You should talk directly with Harold at HP Autosport


Have you seen this thread?

BMW Rear Guide Rod Kit - Better traction and handling
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223464
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      10-14-2015, 09:32 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt View Post
On the track, the 135i needs at least 265 or 275 tires in the rear especially at higher boost levels. Some of the fastest 1ers (including 1M's) I've seen at the track run a staggered setup with as much rubber they can possibly fit.

There was at least a couple 1M owners here who tested both a staggered and square setup, and they noted that the staggered setup was clearly faster on a consistent basis according to their logs and lap data.

A minimum of 275 or 285 tires all around may be necessary for a square setup to be undoubtedly faster for the 135i. Unfortunately, a lot of work is required for that...

255 square is great however for autocross where there are slower and sharper turns.

Disabling the e-diff intervention sounds useful if you want less traction and more slip angle when applying throttle in the corners...which sounds like the opposite of what you want?
I have never really understood people wanting to run a square set up on track.

Show me a single RWD pro racecar that does not use wider tires in the back, unless being limited by the rules.
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      10-14-2015, 12:27 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
I have never really understood people wanting to run a square set up on track.

Show me a single RWD pro racecar that does not use wider tires in the back, unless being limited by the rules.
I have been saying that all alone. Run the widest tire your wheel well will accommodate, in the case of our RWD BMW's the rear is wider than the front.

Square set-up is mostly to mask a number of handling issues or trying to get longer life out of the tires by rotating them.
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      10-14-2015, 07:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
I have never really understood people wanting to run a square set up on track.

Show me a single RWD pro racecar that does not use wider tires in the back, unless being limited by the rules.
I agree but there is a competitive 135i race car that runs on square 275's with just the 1M front. Link: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...5#post17557075

Curious to know if they've tried more rubber in the rear since then and any thoughts on a staggered setup with those 275 fronts.
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      10-15-2015, 07:05 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
You should talk directly with Harold at HP Autosport


Have you seen this thread?

BMW Rear Guide Rod Kit - Better traction and handling
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223464
I installed the M3 guide rods a while ago, before my adjustable toe arms in fact.
The toe arms had way more effect on tightening up the rear end on my car setup.
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      10-15-2015, 07:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
I have never really understood people wanting to run a square set up on track.

Show me a single RWD pro racecar that does not use wider tires in the back, unless being limited by the rules.
See post #20 ...

If you want buy me some wider rear rims, I will follow your advice ;-)
In the mean time, I will keep stock fenders, and continue to use as wide rubber as I can in front to limit understeer and rear for most grip, on stock RIMS.

What works for me is 255/35R18 on four style 261's (18x8.5 ET52) or 255/40R17 on my style 68's (17x8.5 ET51). Bought the RIMS used for less than $400/set ...

Planning on rcomp dot legal Nitto NT-01, or full r-comp Continental slicks for 2016, which I can get used (2 heat cycles on them), for $100/tire ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 10-15-2015 at 09:16 AM.
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      10-15-2015, 11:20 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
See post #20 ...

If you want buy me some wider rear rims, I will follow your advice ;-)
In the mean time, I will keep stock fenders, and continue to use as wide rubber as I can in front to limit understeer and rear for most grip, on stock RIMS.

What works for me is 255/35R18 on four style 261's (18x8.5 ET52) or 255/40R17 on my style 68's (17x8.5 ET51). Bought the RIMS used for less than $400/set ...

Planning on rcomp dot legal Nitto NT-01, or full r-comp Continental slicks for 2016, which I can get used (2 heat cycles on them), for $100/tire ...
How are you running 255 in the front?
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      10-15-2015, 11:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
How are you running 255 in the front?
M3 control arms, GC camber plates, and hub centric 10 mm spacers.
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 10-15-2015 at 11:44 AM.
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      10-15-2015, 11:28 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
See post #20 ...

If you want buy me some wider rear rims, I will follow your advice ;-)
In the mean time, I will keep stock fenders, and continue to use as wide rubber as I can in front to limit understeer and rear for most grip, on stock RIMS.

What works for me is 255/35R18 on four style 261's (18x8.5 ET52) or 255/40R17 on my style 68's (17x8.5 ET51). Bought the RIMS used for less than $400/set ...

Planning on rcomp dot legal Nitto NT-01, or full r-comp Continental slicks for 2016, which I can get used (2 heat cycles on them), for $100/tire ...
Got my Apex EC7's for about $600 on a group buy.

Just a warning about the Conti slicks. After two heat cycles they are usually about 5-6 s slower a lap than new, and they get much worse, fast. I honestly would not pay $100 for them. Get the Nitto for sure.

Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 10-15-2015 at 11:33 AM.
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      10-15-2015, 11:35 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Got my Apex EC7's for about $600 on a group buy.
They are about $1800CAD after shipping, duty fees, brokerage, exchange rate, and taxes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Just a warning about the Conti slicks. After two heat cycles they are usually about 5-6 s slower than new, and they get much worse, fast. I honestly would not pay $100 for them. Get the Nitto for sure.
Thanks for the heads up. I might pass on the slicks then. My reasoning is that they were worth a try for $400CAD/set. These are from various race teams, geeting rid of the tires after their qualification runs ..
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 10-15-2015 at 01:06 PM.
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      10-15-2015, 12:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
They are about $1800CAD after shipping, duty fees, brokerage, and taxes.


Thanks for the heads up. I might pass on the slicks then. My reasoning is that they were worth a try for $400CAD/set. These are from various race teams, geeting rid of the tires after their qualification runs ..
I had the rims shipped to Ogdensburg for free, then drove down, spent a weekend drinking wine in the finger lakes then brought them back duty free. Also got them when the dollar was nearly at par, actually got them before I got the car here. Got REALLY lucky getting them at that price.

I know several teams that run the conti slicks. Two heat cycles and they throw them out.
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