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      02-06-2019, 09:10 PM   #1
bmwlaguna
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OFHG :(

Looks like I have a OFHG replacement in my future.
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      02-06-2019, 11:18 PM   #2
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      02-07-2019, 07:04 AM   #3
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Why does this happen on almost every BMW since the 1980s?
How many miles on your car now?
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      02-07-2019, 03:22 PM   #4
bmwlaguna
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Originally Posted by jdt10768 View Post
Why does this happen on almost every BMW since the 1980s?
How many miles on your car now?
67K miles
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      02-07-2019, 03:40 PM   #5
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I don't think it's urgent and if you read thru posts here, it's pretty easy to do when an oil change is called for.
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      02-07-2019, 04:49 PM   #6
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Not necessarily. My OFHG failed and leaked pretty quickly. I did an oil change and didn't see any oil leaks. In the span of a couple thousand miles and about 2 months, I saw oil dripping on my garage floor and had to add in half a quart of oil to bring the oil level back up to the max level.

The mechanic that did my OFHG said the entire undertray was soaked/covered with oil. He said he was getting high off of the cleaner he used to clean up all the oil.
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      02-07-2019, 05:59 PM   #7
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This is a very easy DIY on the 128i and the parts are cheap. It is 3 bolts, one of which needs a universal joint to access.
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      02-10-2019, 08:58 PM   #8
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Mine has 54k miles and definitely needs it, there's oil all over the front of the engine. Bought the parts today from FCP.
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      02-11-2019, 05:05 AM   #9
zx10guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Mine has 54k miles and definitely needs it, there's oil all over the front of the engine. Bought the parts today from FCP.
You might want to consider doing the belt/tensioner/pulley service at the same time while you're working on the OFHG.
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      02-11-2019, 08:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy View Post
You might want to consider doing the belt/tensioner/pulley service at the same time while you're working on the OFHG.
I can't stress enough how important this is. There have been a number of N5X engines that have been destroyed thanks to the OFHG failing, leaking on the pulleys, causing the belt to slip off and cause catastrophic damage. A friend in my town had this happen at highway speeds, belt ripped through the intake and sent cords into the engine, completely destroying the motor.
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      02-11-2019, 08:51 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowsdower View Post
This is a very easy DIY on the 128i and the parts are cheap. It is 3 bolts, one of which needs a universal joint to access.
Which universal joint (extension, right?) did you need please?
vendor make p/n?
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      02-11-2019, 09:04 AM   #12
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Many many videos around on how to do this on the N52 motor. Tool needed is E10 female torx swivel socket 1/4 inch drive, ECS part number UJET410. Note this socket is not readily available in most parts stores.
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      02-11-2019, 09:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdt10768 View Post
Which universal joint (extension, right?) did you need please?
vendor make p/n?
Like this, 1/4in drive. The socket is an E-Torx if I remember correctly but I forget the size. You will need 1/4in drive to get to the bolt behind the intake manifold. Mine is some other brand but I’m sure this Harbor Fright version will work.

https://m.harborfreight.com/3-pc-universal-joint-socket-adapter-set-63141.html
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      02-11-2019, 09:12 AM   #14
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Good idea to change it before the belt gets oil soaked, shreds, then gets sucked in through the front main seal.
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      02-11-2019, 09:39 AM   #15
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Getting ready to do this on my N55, that has 32k miles.

Such a load of crap. The valve cover is also starting to leak with such low mileage.
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      02-11-2019, 10:01 AM   #16
zx10guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Good idea to change it before the belt gets oil soaked, shreds, then gets sucked in through the front main seal.
That pic is worse than the pic of the entire dashboard being removed to replace the evaporator coil. The horrors....
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      02-11-2019, 10:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Good idea to change it before the belt gets oil soaked, shreds, then gets sucked in through the front main seal.
That pic is worse than the pic of the entire dashboard being removed to replace the evaporator coil. The horrors....
Just wait to see after the oil pan has been removed and the oil pump pickup is jammed with more pieces of the belt.
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      02-11-2019, 11:11 AM   #18
zx10guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Just wait to see after the oil pan has been removed and the oil pump pickup is jammed with more pieces of the belt.
Is there any hope/point in tearing apart the motor after something like this has happened? Just seems to be at least a short block replacement right off the bat.
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      02-11-2019, 11:25 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Just wait to see after the oil pan has been removed and the oil pump pickup is jammed with more pieces of the belt.
Is there any hope/point in tearing apart the motor after something like this has happened? Just seems to be at least a short block replacement right off the bat.
As long as they don't drive too far, it usually survives.
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      02-11-2019, 11:29 AM   #20
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2009 BMW 128i  [9.80]
Get that swivel tool, it's 100% necessary to do this
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      02-11-2019, 05:17 PM   #21
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I just got this today.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vim-tool...e/ujet410~vim/

Doing it on an n54 in the near future. I bought a new acc belt but not the pulleys. 45K mi, and the leak is very slight don’t see any on belt or pulleys. Anyone want to comment?
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      02-12-2019, 08:49 AM   #22
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You'll definitely need this:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428637821kt2

Does BWM design these little problems into their engines to keep mechanics busy? It would seem so, since every engine built in the last 20 or more years has this problem!
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