BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      05-12-2018, 06:15 AM   #45
rvnlive
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Hey Guys,
I could not write a new thread, but given an E87 (5 dr hb) 08 numberplate. My rear windows are working normally (both levels when pressing gives the waited functions) but both sides on front are not. They only going down by inches, and only if I press-release/press-release. No auto-down or auto-up, no one-touch.
I’ve bought an other window regulator with motor, and yesterday we wanted to swap them, but when we just plugged it on, it was behaving exactly the same, so deffo no problem with the original regulator/motor.
One of my mates been here with computer (working for the automotive company) and said, that theres no error code for windows in the system, but the window error light comes on at ignition.
Any ideas what to do?
I dont really want to take it in to BMW garage cos they’ll take my pants away as well as my wallet
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      05-12-2018, 07:08 AM   #46
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So just to clarify for the simple minded. The cog shaped problem fixing is a left handed thread ? So looking at it from the 'top', (hidden side in the car), you'd turn clockwise to unscrew ?
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      08-27-2018, 09:58 AM   #47
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I just did this the other week and had a note to add when adjusting the window. I did it with the door closed and was able to apply pressure up on the window from underneath (inside the door) and tighten the window bolts using the torx T20 on the end of the shank through 2 access holes towards the top of the door (sorry I forgot to take a picture). Once properly aligned and tightened as much as I could with the torx, I lowered the window back down to get more leverage and do a final tighten using an allen wrench on the head side.
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      09-09-2018, 11:31 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135iNewb View Post
BMW's are notorious for failing window regulators.
This thread should help you replace yours when/if it fails.
I purchased part # 51337165596 (passenger side/right side) from my local BMW dealer directly for $162.00 plus tax.
If you need the drivers side/right side, it is 51337165595.
I found them slightly cheaper online, but I wanted to get it fixed asap so I paid a few dollars more.

This is what you get.
This is actually the back view.
The larger rail will be closer to the body of the car once you have the door open. (regardless of which side you're repairing)


Step one. Remove the door panel. Check out this vid for a step by step on removing the door panel.

Start with removing this bolt cover.



Remove the T-20 machine screw.



Using a flat head (be careful not to scratch your fake wood), find the gap under the door handle between the wood and handle.
Twist the flat head to pop the wood cover open a little.
Then use your hand and slowly pull it off.
There are little metal clips that hold the wood cover onto the handle.
If the clips move, replace them for the re-install later.


Pic of handle with wood cover removed. Note clips:



Next, remove two T-20 screws from the inside the handle.



Next, you should pry up the window switch housing FROM THE FRONT!
The back side will not come up.



Remove the window switch and disconnect the electrical connection, by simply pulling it off.



I didnt take a picture of this, but the next step is to use a flat head (covered with a rag) and pry your door panel off.
The door panel is held in place with several small plastic clips.
You really cant hurt them, so just get in there and pop that sucker off.
Dont pull it too far away from the door.
Once you get it off you will see the speaker connections.
Just pull them straight off. YELLOW ON BOTTOM.



Next you will need to remove the door handle lever from the back side of the door panel.
I dont have a pic, but just find the white clip, pull the little lever up, and lift the assembly away from the door.

Once you have the lever, speaker, and switch disconnected, it should look like this.



Using a razor blade, cut the sticky black glue adhesive away from the door frame.
Try not to cut the foam, or scratch the paint.




Once you have it completely removed it should look like this.
Now you will have the access you need to pull the regulator assembly out.



Now its time for a very important step.
I'd like to thank Magiik for his sacrifice.
He went through hell to learn a valuable lesson for the rest of us.
Take a minute to read this thread if you are having issues with the next step.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=761814
What you need to know, is that the glass is held onto the assembly by two large bolts that look like this...
Minus my allen key.



Notice the bolt has a T-20 star head fitting on the end of the bolt.
You don't want to attempt removing it by using that fitting.
You will lose.

Look very closely at this pic, and notice my allen key is inside the strange bolt with the gear looking head.
This is how you should remove this bolt.
You may need to use the drivers side window switch to raise/lower the window in order to fit your hand inside the door frame to get leverage.
Its tight. Remove both of the strange gear headed bolts (one from each rail).
The glass will still be held in place by a plastic clip, but be careful.



In order to remove the assembly, you must remove the 3 T-25 screws that holds the motor onto the regulator assembly.


Next, remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the rail to the door frame. Bottom nut^^^
and top nut, below.



The other rail assembly is held in place by 3 10mm nuts.
The top one is behind the plastic dust shield.



The lower nuts are underneath the door frame.





Before removing the glass, get to know this clip.
It sits inside the hole in the glass.
When you are ready to lift the glass out, pull the plastic clips away from the glass, and lift the glass.
This pic was taken with the glass already out, just so you can see the hole in the glass and how the clip works.



NOTE: When reinstalling the glass, remember how much play there is between this little clip, and that large hole in the glass.
If you tighten the gear bolt and this is not centered, your window wont close all the way.
Or it will be too far forward, or too far back.
It is important to center this connection, if you dont want water leaking into your car.

At this point you can remove the regulator assembly, and re-install the new one.
The procedure is the exact opposite.
One more thing I will mention is when re-attaching the motor to the regulator assembly, it might be easier to line up the motor gear into the regulator gear BEFORE you tighten down the rail. You will see what I mean.

This is what my old regulator assembly looked like.



When I googled "135i window regulator" I found minimal results, with very little help. Poor Magiik learned a hard lesson for the rest of us, so I figured I'd try to put something together to give other people a little more info on the topic, since it is such a common occurrence. I hope this helps somebody out.

GOOD LUCK!!
OP, I know it's a long shot and this thread is 5 years old, but do you have these pics hosted somewhere else? I'm halfway through this job and a little unsure what to do next. Thanks!
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      11-29-2018, 11:45 AM   #49
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removing the star cog

after breaking a few bits i found out the best way to remove the hex headed cog bolt. using a pair of channellocks is the best way to go about this and not break tools or scream and cus.
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      01-24-2019, 02:03 PM   #50
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For some reason I can't see the images
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      03-18-2019, 04:56 AM   #51
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Window regulator repair kit available

I replaced the drivers door regulator in the wife's 125i around 12 months ago and a week ago had the drivers window 'drop' in my 135i. Rather than buying a complete regulator I managed to track down a repair kit from automotoparts.eu see https://www.automotoparts.eu/en/sear...r=search&s=e82

The kit cost me 36 euro which worked out at least a quarter the best price I could get for a new regulator and was delivered in around a week. I figured why fork out for a new regulator when the problem was caused by the failure of one cable? (sort of regretted that while I was trying to do the repair though).

Without the aid of any DIY's on cable replacement it took a bit of time to figure it out. Finally worked out a few tricks to tension up the two 'springed' cables that attach the motor drive pulley and now have the old regulator back together with new kit cables, springs and drive pulley. Will be putting the regulator and window back in the morning but will write up a DIY on the cable replacement if anyone is interested.

Armed with the knowledge I now have, it should not take much more than 30 minutes to install the kit so it is a worthwhile alternative to a new regulator considering the cost.
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      11-13-2019, 08:35 AM   #52
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135i window regulator

So I've been looking for a good diy on how to replace my window regulator step by step. I see this is a good worded one. But anyone else not seeing the photos on here?

Anyone know where I can find a good step by step? I'm pretty hand and will figure it out one way or another. But it would be helpful if there was a nice diy
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      04-13-2020, 03:21 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastdrivingjr View Post
I got it easy with this EASY
No Dice for me..... The rear cog came out easy, but the front will not budge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djpeetur View Post
after getting my drive door replace. i went through hell and back adjusting the window so it will seal properly.

TIPS to getting your door seal correctly
-Have a person from the outside hold the window up, in the proper seal position with the door closed shut. measure gaps from other door.
-From inside the car. Tighten the window from the inside with door closed.

i had the door semi close and then measured the gap and then i opened the door to tighten. WRONG WAY. TIGHTEN WITH THE DOOR CLOSED and in SEAL POSITION

also this mini cooper tool below helped too. A fancy body shop didn't even correctly set my window. they didnt even know how to take out the regulator correctly. they had to chop my window and regulator out to put in my new door. Finally my nightmare ended. Next time i would get them to repair the door before replacing. what a hassle. thats my rant. Hopefully this helps someone else.

Where can I buy this mini cooper tool??

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsp_1990 View Post
Thanks again for this useful post. I tried to do my F07 535i the other day and couldnt get the gear screw out.





FYR: This is just a cutting disc removal tool with an extra hole drilled in it XD.
Nice improv.... I wish I had something like that
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