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      08-11-2017, 12:58 PM   #1
jbarzelatto
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DANGEROUS! 135i N55 6mt Shutting Off After WOT. - Loose Steering wheel control

For a little background, I own a 2011 135i N55 FBO with Jb4 and Cobb Back End Flash, with Stage 2+ VTT Turbo swap.

Whats hppening is that after I do a hard WOT, the car feels a bit JERKY at one point, but when I let go of the gas, and stay in the gear im in, causing the car to brake in a way (like a downshift brake) the check engine light goes on, and the car completely shuts down!! The problem with this is that I loose control of the steering wheel, and barely have brakes. I have to completely brake, take the key out, and start again, and the problem is gone.

Something else Iv noticed, but its always been this way, is when i start the car, and its warming up, i can hear VERY short interruptions of the sound of the car, not sure if you understand. Its as if for a milisecond, the car stalls, but doesnt actually stall. i just hear un unstable sound, thats all. Its as if theres a milisecond interruption in the signal or something. Im telling you all this because maybe combining these symptoms, along with the errors below, maybe you can diagnose something. I see that most of these errors have to do with the valvetronic and ignition relays, so theres that.

Also, I had noticed that my chargepipe had a lot of oil in it. So in my head i thought that maybe the car stalls when i let go of the gas, because the throttle body closes and sucks in oil the other direction, and maybe the sensor makes the car shut off. Keep in mind that all I have to do is stop, remove the key, and restart the car and everything is ok again, until it happens again. Please your help, as this is kinda dangerous. It stalls in the middle of the highway and the steering wheel goes hard obviously, and brakes work half assed.

Please guys your help! Help me stay alive!!

The errors that showed up are the following:

371A - relay de valvetronic,
2A61 - RELAY INJECCION
2DC6 - VALVETRONIC, ACTUATOR, OR CONECTION OF THIS ONE WITH DME
2F44- COILS, SPARK PLUGS
2DB6 - RELAY VALVETRONIC
371E - RELAY DE IGNICION
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      08-11-2017, 02:58 PM   #2
iminhell1
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Sounds like a connectivity problem; electrical connector being stretched/loose.

Is this a brand new build? And problem.
Or an existing build and this is a new problem? Was there any work done recently, and problem showed up after?
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      08-11-2017, 03:08 PM   #3
jbarzelatto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
Sounds like a connectivity problem; electrical connector being stretched/loose.

Is this a brand new build? And problem.
Or an existing build and this is a new problem? Was there any work done recently, and problem showed up after?

The unstable sound, i remember it was like that for a while, always actually. Maybe after I changed the turbo. This specific started happening after i replaced the valvetronic actuator and the shaft. Like I said, I noticed a lot of oil in the chargepipe and TB.

My jb4 is old though, and the cables are a bit run down, but not sure if this could cause the problems.

Any ideas, considering the symptoms and errors? thanks man
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      08-12-2017, 10:04 AM   #4
juld0zer
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Relays are cheap. It is the same type of relay for both and they are right next to each other in the ebox.
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      08-15-2017, 07:26 PM   #5
Gizmo135i
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The harness from the dme to the valvetronic actuator tends to go bad sometimes, also have seen bad dme cause faults. Did you replace the shaft yourself? There are initializations and a "running in phase" that are supposed to be done when the actuator and shaft are replaced. I doubt the relay would just suddenly cut out like that, but it is part of the ICM
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      08-17-2017, 08:26 AM   #6
houtan
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any updates?
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      08-17-2017, 01:34 PM   #7
EvanAlfred
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bump..? update
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      08-22-2017, 12:27 AM   #8
jbarzelatto
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Car did it once this week. I havent replaced the RELAYS yet, waiting for them to arrive.

The car did do something new. An afternoon after not using it in one day, the car was like drowning, gurgling, as if it had too much fuel or water in the exhaust or system. and the same day, the car stalled on the stop light due to very low idle. On one time it was dangerous, as it happened when i reached a corner, and had to turn, and the steering was hard as hell obviously.

Here are codes I pulled when this happened.

2F01- Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
2F02 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
2EEE -
2EEC - Combustion misfiring, cylinder 3: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence
2EF0- Combustion misfiring, cylinder 4: damaging exhaust gas after start sequence
00F1
2180


Any ideas?
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      09-11-2017, 08:44 AM   #9
jbarzelatto
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still happening!

So the problem persists.

For a long time, iv had a certain jerkiness when I am accelerating slowly and the RPMs pass the 3.000. Right when it hits 3000rpm, the jerkiness starts. Ands its the same jerkiness I feel right before the car goes into this mode.

So the errors that persist now when this happens mostly are

28B4
28AB

Along with the ones before

2774
2BC1
28BO

The problem happens a lot more when the car is cold. And it starts being jerky right before it happens. And if I accelerate, and let for of the pedal (my car is a 6 speed), and the car brakes with the tranny like it does when you down shift, thats when it goes into this error mode too.

In the scren, I see the CRUISE CONTROL logo come up, as well as the DCT logo that shows when its deactivated.

Any ideas? This is starting to be scary and dangerous. I have to stop in the middle of the road, and restart the car. If I do a WOT right after I turn it back on, the error seems to go away for a bit longer.

Im buying new spark plugs as we speak just in case it might be that.


Let me know please!
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      10-16-2017, 06:47 PM   #10
135i OREO
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Me too!!!

My car did this too. Sometimes at speeds of 150+ which is terrifying (on the autobahn). I couldn?t figure it out and I?m not saying it was for sure the JB4, but when I switched from JB4 to Cobb it completely stopped. I had an older JB4 and I think something was wrong with it which caused the issue. My car did this for like 2 years. It?s been 2 years since it?s done it.

When it would become unresponsive and shut down, I pull over to the side of the road and while stopped, the engine would rev between 1200-2300 but there was zero throttle response. Shut the car off and back on, it would go away and wouldn?t comeback for a few weeks.
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      10-16-2017, 07:14 PM   #11
HyeWarrior
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My old JB4 used to do this too. Surprise, car worked fine after it was removed
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      11-03-2017, 10:30 AM   #12
hungry r
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I am suprised that you would lose steering when the engine shuts off and that sounds really crazy dangerous if it happened
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      11-03-2017, 12:24 PM   #13
jbarzelatto
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stalling

removed and replaced by a new jb4, or completely removed?


Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
My old JB4 used to do this too. Surprise, car worked fine after it was removed
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      11-05-2017, 04:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarzelatto View Post
removed and replaced by a new jb4, or completely removed?
Completely removed.

Started randomly misfiring on me one day and that was the last straw. Took it off and it’s been fine since (aside from other unrelated maintenance/repair needs).

Planning on going MHD in the future
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      08-15-2019, 08:57 PM   #15
thatblackbimmer
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Throwing similar codes but car won't start and it's not the battery or starter
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      08-16-2019, 12:48 PM   #16
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Subbed. I have some of the same problems. My car has never stalled or shut off on me, but I definitely have the same cold start interruptions you are talking about. I also have the gurgling/drowning issue you have on occasion. Actually had to tow the car to the shop for it once but it resolved itself on the tow bed. I'm thinking it's a fuel delivery issue. Possibly HPFP or Injector causing these issues.

EDIT: Just realized how old this is.. OP, did you ever fix this?
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