GuruAutowerks 6hp28 trans adapter install

[Petro135]

Im assuming trans is loose from engine and car is jacked up.
I did this while also doing an engine swap and diff rebuild. So im sure im doing stuff that wouldnt need to be done if just doing trans conversion.
My engine and subframe was out when i took out old trans and rolled new one in on a trans jack. Rolled them in and out from the front.
Take off all the normal stuff up top. Cowl, intake manifold, chargepipe, cooling fan, front bumper cover. And driver side wheel and wheel well cover( for trans cooler mounting).
Drain tranny.
Drain coolant and remove heat exchanger and pipes that run to transmission.
After buying 6hp28 trans, i did a service kit. Filters,pan and bolts. Tried to drain as much fluid out of torque converter as possible. I kept shaking it up and put it face down over a bucket with a couple 2x4 pieces across to hold it up.

*im a tester for this kit. So there are things we found during install that will be changed for future kits. Thats why you have testers. Especially since im a 1 series and this kit was fitted on a 335i when the prototype was made.
Bought 6hp28 trans from a 335d. Has 55k miles on it. Funny thing is new engine i just installed also has 55k miles.



1.Put up bell housing plate using bolts A1 with washers and blue thread lock. Pull out the sleeve on block if its still in there. I used a t50 socket as i didnt have the correct hex bit.

2. The TC plate goes in next with bag b1 of bolts. Gotta spin it a couple times until you find the right holes. Used blue threadlock here too

3. Hung trans cooler a cheapie 28 row. Made a 2" wide aluminum bracket. Just straight cut and bent to go into an existing stud on the body post.
I then put stick on rubber down the back and anywhere it may vibrate. Had to cut some of the oem air duct back to fit this. Then used a large ziptie to make sure it doesnt move anywhere.

4. Made and installed 8an lines. Needed 10-8an adapters which are included in the kit. And they threw in a whole slew of 8an fittings and alot of 8an hose. Speaking with josh at guru the best way to terminate these are a 180 degree and a 90 degree. On the cooler side. They meet up nicely. Then up and under my coolant rez. And down the side by the steering column. I used 2 straight fittings on the other end to the trans. Important you let him know if you have a 1 series.
5. The -8an fittings he will send will have to be different. We have much less room right there than 3 series have. And the straight -an ends go to slimmer 90 degree fittings in the trans. Easiest way to do this is put the 90 degree fitting on and tight in correct orientation. Then bottom line you can put 90 fitting on trans and screw on line after
6. I put on the -an adapter fittings for transmission and the hold down plate as well.

7. The shim fitting goes into the hole between the flywheel bolts. The added large bolt is just to remove fitting if needed. I needed to because i put some blue locktite in there as well.
Mine went in pretty easy. If its tight its suggested putting it in the freezer overnight. Put that in and tapped it in with a rubber mallet. Should be snug.

7. Have to grind out part of the bell housing inside the trans so the nose of the starter fits properly. Easier to do this when trans is out. But i didnt know this until after it was under the car. And i cut off the little pin below it because knocking it out from the back while under the car was not possible, the way it was sitting.

8. So after pulling out the torque converter so i could make the cuts, i put the tc back in which is no joke. Getting it resting on my chest i pressed it up and tried not to drop it on my head. Then i hear the first click. I moved it around and wiggled it until i heard the second click. It was in. That thing is heavy.
9. Then i put on the new rear bracket. With bolts marked D. Again a 1 series is different and i had to add 1/2" spacers behind the bracket to trans. This will be corrected in future kits.

10. My trans was on a trans jack, and it was not in the right orientation to jack up and roll right into the engine. So after fiddling with it. I ended up using a jack on the front of the trans and put the crossmember back in loosely to hold the back. And took the trans jack out of the middle. After some back and fourth under the car i got the driver side bolt and sleeve to line up and i got it started. Then pushed around on the tail of the trans until i got the 2nd sleeved bolt to line up. Doing those 2 sleeved bolts first was the key. Then the rest were all lined up, i took all the slack out of each bolt. Then went and tightened them all after.
*driver side bolt under starter, 10mm wobble hex bit and a wobble extension and then 3 more feet of extensions. Get the extensions up over the trans and you can guide it on the bolt with your other hand.
*passenger side top bolt. Same 10mm setup same extensions.
This one you have to jack engine with brace slightly and get the bolt slid in. Then i put the hex bit and a small extension in from the top and went under with the rest of extensions and ran it over the trans and connected it with my other hand.
*top middle bolt is the hex head bolt. Gotta get your left hand in the top and get it in and started and screwed in as far as you can. Then a 19mm ratcheting wrench to tighten.
10. Then i put on ecs trans mounts and tightened crossbrace.
10. I had taken the driveshaft out at the center support. So to get it back in i put the guibo on the trans and tightened the 3 bolts. Loosened the cross member. Jacked up the front a bit with the engine brace.Then slid shaft spline into the center section with the center support not bolted in. I twisted until i saw it close to getting around the rubber for guibo. Then i took a prybar and pryed it until it popped in. Then bolted the rest of guibo in and the center support.

11. I made sure every bolt was tight. Checked the starter to make sure it will fit.
12. Now i cranked the engine from the crankbolt until i got 1 torque coverter bolt accessible. I put it in loosely. Dont tighten these down more than hand tight until all 6 bolts are in.This was tricky. There is an extra hole in there if you spin TC until you see the 2 holes line up. Then crank from 11oclock -2 oclock and put another bolt in. And so on and so on.

13. The starter you have to drill out the threads in the hole that has threads and make sure the long bolt in bag A3 goes through. Now you only have 2 foward facing starter bolts to deal with if you have to take it off again.

14. Very important to keep your linkage from the hp19 trans. The cable end is different in the hp28. I took that apart and hooked up the old one back the way it came off.
15. I ran the big trans plug wire up and over the trans before i connected driveshaft. Now i tucked it up in front of the linkage into a plastic bracket that holds it up.
16. Installed the 2-8an lines to trans. Was tight, probably should have done this before it was fully jacked into place. But i didnt want the lines in my way. But i did it the way i mentioned above.

17. Then i put the black box back with all the lines running through it.
18. Finally i used the supplied plugs and washers to plug my old heat exchanger lines. These things are really cool.


20. I used adrenaline atf fluid. Its pricey but according to Rod Sutphin its the best stuff out there. Fill with fill hole until it begins to drip out. Put plug in and start car. Run through all the gears and back. P, R, N, D, N, R, P. Run until trans gets warm. Then take out fill plug and add more until it starts to leak out. Reinstall plug and you should be good to go.
21. This needs to be vin coded to your car. Any trans coder can do this. And there are plenty around. I used Houston bmw coding and did it remotely
22. Load xhp after vin coding and download the tune.

Since im also finishing an engine swap. I put back on all the stuff up top like catch cans manifold and all that.

Some after thoughts:
1. Joshua from GuruAutowerks did each one of these by hand and it shows the level of his craftsmanship. All the parts were made beautifully. He powder coated the brackets.
When i got to the last tranny bolt. And reached in that tight space behind the engine and got the bolt in the hole. And it caught threads instantly and screwed in like buttah. Thats when i knew every one of these parts is so precise. That never happen in the n54 world. To me anyway.
2. This was relatively easy to do. On my back by myself. Id say it took 8 hours total. But a couple of those hours were spent doing stuff from engine swap and nothing to do with transmission. So id say done ready to start car in 6 hours including making -an lines.
And im slow as hell.
3. Not sure how you would get the trans in and out from the side with a trans jack. You would have to jack the car up pretty high. Or get the trans under before you put it on a jack. Id suggest a floor jack on front and one on back tail. Jack it up and roll the trans jack in between.

[iminhell1]

Looks like you're going to want Banjo fittings for the trans cooler lines.

[Petro135]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Looks like you're going to want Banjo fittings for the trans cooler lines.

Yes i have different fittings now. The 90s just didnt fit. You can see i had to grind off parts of them to get them to thread. Once Joshua saw that he sent me low profile elbows and i go straight -an fitting to them. Gained about an inch. Was still tough to screw on up there. But no way they will hit anything now.

[iminhell1]

It's odd how virtually everything on the E8x is 15/16 scale to the E9x chassis. If companies where smart our cars would be the test bench and then they'd know 100% it'd fit the E9x cars.

[Petro135]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

It's odd how virtually everything on the E8x is 15/16 scale to the E9x chassis. If companies where smart our cars would be the test bench and then they'd know 100% it'd fit the E9x cars.

True. We just measured tunnels. Right under the trans cooler fittings. From frame rail to frame rail both the 335 and 135 measure 16". Which means they are just layed out a little different. I have more slope right there than he does. I also have more space behind the trans. I can put my hand up between the mount and the crossbrace. He cant in his 335.