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01-23-2021, 07:31 PM | #45 |
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Follow up:
Firstly, you don't need to re-connect the loop for coding. I just had a new battery coded and cleared codes without having to touch the Andream box CAN wiring. I'm still going to keep the loop handy in the glovebox and I recommend having the harness within reach in the fuse area just in case. Here is my solution so far for those with HK or better sound systems that want to keep wireless CarPlay and avoid AUX for high fidelity music: CIC - v1.1.2 Andream B unit Keep the phone Bluetooth connected to idrive for both phone calls and music. Set memory on radio button 1 to Bluetooth (hover over the Bluetooth option in idrive and long press) Set memory on radio button 2 to AUX (same as above for AUX) Waze Guidance Volume (in waze settings) set to 50 Andream settings Volume set to 16 Andream settings Alter Volume set to 8 Idrive AUX volume two bars down from max Bluetooth volume from iPhone 3/4 full For iPhone 12 wireless charging: MagSafe with thin black vinyl over the white parts to blend in with the car and mounted above the cup holder with clear double sided adhesive mounting tape (can be removed and re-positioned without damaging the trim) In this setup the priority is on Bluetooth music sound and seamless phone calls in and out. All wireless. Also there is no need to select "Using cars BT phone" in Andream options, this seemed block me from answering incoming calls. There are some drawbacks like waze audio directions not working over Bluetooth when connected to CarPlay but I need to test again with v1.1.4 and v1.1.5 Andream Software updates. Also when you return to AUX you need to swap the output sometimes back over AirPlay to CarPlay in waze or whatever music app you use. The solution for easy idrive swapping audio sources is to hit 1 or 2 on the radio for BT/AUX. The volumes have been levelled as much as possible in order to smoothly transition between BT/AUX. You will only need to do this if you need audio for directions and want to check texts and respond quickly and smoothly with Siri. I Dremeled a small channel for the AUX chord to pass through the screw cover near the arm-wrest AUX in. I too am very curious if you can get aux back in via the quad lock in later CIC versions with coding. UPDATE BELOW |
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01-26-2021, 09:37 AM | #46 |
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UPDATE!
The AUX sound quality can be made to sound incredible with HK sound when properly calibrated!!! No need for the work around or swapping although you can still do that as well. Firstly I updated the software to CHL_V1.1.5 I get it, sound quality is subjective and this is highly a personal ear perception thing. With that said, these MMI boxes come shipped with literally the worst settings out of the box, hence my quest to try and resolve the audio issues I HAD!!! The MMI over AUX originally sounded like a tin can 30's talk show, totally flat and devoid of rich details in bass and overall feel. All it needed was some help from @mastrchee who shared his pro music calibration settings in the F30 MMI thread post (page 27). Yes, it helps to read over 300 pages of that thread LOL. I took his advice and tweaked things to my taste and now I can honestly say it sounds amazing! Here are my settings: Music Volume setting in Andream (new option) set to 6. Waze: lowered the directions volume to 20. In idrive tone settings, I increased the bass a bit. Don't forget, these settings do have an impact on the overall sound as well. I plan on playing with the idrive EQ at some point as well but for now it's flat. In the MMI box EQ is set like this: Last edited by dandandan; 01-26-2021 at 10:37 AM.. |
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01-26-2021, 06:02 PM | #47 |
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dandandan do you have pictures of where you stowed the unit/box? I'm thinking about plunging in to this project as well, seems like people have mostly had good results.
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01-26-2021, 10:43 PM | #48 | |
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https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26934550 I used zip ties to keep it in place wrapped around the MMI and dash frame metal supports. You don't need to bother with double sided tape, zip ties will work perfectly. Just watch the clearance on the passenger vent arm as to not make contact with it. It's a small fragile plastic arm that opens and closes the vent. Wrap the parts of the MMI box with felt tape anywhere it makes contact metal to metal but don't close the circuitry vents on the sides. The last thing you want is more rattling in these cars. Pro tip: the glovebox has a black trim piece that is next to the HU and runs under the cosmetic trim on the dash. That is the culprit of a lot of squeaking. While you have the glovebox off, unscrew the trim piece a little bit and place felt tape where there is plastic to plastic contact causing a very infamous squeak in the dash. A huge benefit of this installation, if done correctly, is that you will have an opportunity to place felt tape on areas that make noise and shut them up. Also the glovebox re-install can be deceptive. There are two small rubber grommets hidden under where the bolts on top screw in. These grommets make it feel impossible to re-install until you simply lift them up a bit to allow the glovebox to hook back up that last half inch. For DCT guys, pop off the larger trim around the shifter first then rotate and locate the clips to release the leather boot. Unplug the sport button and shifter cable carefully then carefully pull the shifter up and out. I'll make a video walk through on Saturday fuck it. More to come. |
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01-27-2021, 12:10 AM | #49 | |
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What about Siri and other things? This seems like an easy way to blow out your ear drums if you have to set the volume so low. What about when backing up or other car alerts and such? Also - his EQ he posted seems quite different. https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...675929&page=27 |
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01-27-2021, 06:11 PM | #50 | ||
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My advice is to start with the baseline from the F30 post and adjust to your liking while sampling different songs. The bass may have been a touch high on my idrive but, it does sound much better now. |
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02-01-2021, 02:42 AM | #51 |
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What did you all do in terms of the microphone? The instructions indicate it should work with the oem microphone right away for most models. Some people on here mention needing to do a jumper to get the oem microphone to work, but it’d obviously be preferable to not have to continue stripping the interior and running cables.
The first time I fired up the car (2013 135i) with the mmi box installed (without doing anything microphone related) I had no issue using the oem microphone to send texts with siri. However, I have not gotten it to work since. I can activate siri by saying "hey siri" (it seems to use my phones microphone, as if I move my phone away it stops working) but after that I cannot give siri any commands or be heard on phone calls. The sound is going through the aux cable in the armrest (could not get “internal” aux working). I've been playing with the settings to no avail. Anyone had this problem? |
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02-02-2021, 05:50 PM | #52 | |
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You will need to remove the passenger visor, and the driver visor clip to properly gain access to the clips that hold the module in place. |
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02-03-2021, 04:23 AM | #53 | |
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I've got the Andream cic as well, I think it came with the mic tap, was just hoping to avoid any more work. Guess I'll start pulling more of the interior tomorrow. Thanks for the help. |
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05-27-2021, 11:34 PM | #54 |
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07-16-2021, 09:26 PM | #55 |
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Does the Andream unit come with its own bluetooth receiver? I'm having major issues with using my phone with the builtin bluetooth, and I'm hoping the Andream might remedy this
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07-16-2021, 10:07 PM | #56 |
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07-16-2021, 10:26 PM | #57 | |
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I have found a workaround - thankfully - which is plugging in the phone via USB to the normal unit and then playing music that way... While having carplay going on the screen. I don't use the passthrough audio from the andream unit anymore - it's just not good. It is definitely missing a lot of sound - especially from bass heavy songs. |
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07-17-2021, 06:19 PM | #58 | |
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07-19-2021, 02:07 PM | #59 |
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Audio quality on BT will never be as good as on wire unfortunately. Connecting to the andream unit is nearly flawless. I would always have to disconnect/reconnect/repair BT connection w/ my phone to the stock headunit just to play music. It was driving me crazy
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07-20-2021, 12:21 AM | #60 |
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It's not even about BT quality. I can connect via wire to the andream unit and it still sounds bad. It's something about the andream unit itself that messes with the sound.
When I connect other ways to the stereo normally - it doesn't have this significant band of audio missing from it. I'll just continue to bypass it and use the built-in USB with the car for audio. Annoying but not that bad. |
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08-23-2021, 11:11 PM | #61 | |
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08-24-2021, 01:42 PM | #62 | |
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10-24-2021, 02:38 PM | #63 |
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Hi Everyone,
I'm having an issue with my aliexpress Carplay module... My car is a 2013 135is E82, it has the DCT gearbox with the newer GWS. After installing the CarPlay integration module I started to have this weird issue when putting the car in reverse. The LED on the GWS stops working, but the gearshift selector itself keeps working normally. Even the Sport button LED stops working but it still switches from "Normal" to "Sport" mode. I've been talking to the vendor, they sent me a couple of firmware updates and made sure that I had the right settings and wiring setup but I'm still having the issue... Has anyone got into the same problem?? Im thinking these modules were produced for the ZF6 GWS version not for the DCT one... so the CANbus might work different between the 6speed Auto trans than the 7speed Dual clutch trans. Any thoughts? Here's the video:
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10-24-2021, 03:17 PM | #64 |
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I have a 135is auto - same car/model/etc. I haven't had this issue at all.
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11-17-2021, 09:14 PM | #65 |
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Has anyone seen these systems? Both look similar if not identical. Avin specifically says theirs is 2013 compatible.
https://www.carnaviplayer.com/bmw-1-...upgrade-p-1230 https://avinusa.com/10-25-multimedia...2-e87-e88.html Bottom line, my NAV screen is turning white and flaking after 6 years in the Guam sun. Love the idea of replacing the screen AND getting apple carplay at the same time. Thoughts?
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03-03-2022, 11:19 AM | #66 |
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Figured I'd add my extra experience here in case anyone reads:
From this thread where my mirror, horn, and parking sensors were not working. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1837178 Alright. Figured it out. Took it to the guy - he plugged in his computer. He said one of the buses was down. I have one of the carplay/android-auto after market modules plugged in. He said, "it could be something there doing it. It says the whole bus is down. So, maybe one of the cables is loose." Sure enough - I went and checked one of the fiber optic cables - wiggled it a bit and it came back... but then it also went away as soon as I didn't touch it at certain points. How annoying. So basically, something is either bad inside the cable itself (I certainly hope not! That would be a huge PITA to replace) or the module (maybe even worse to replace!). I will be investigating further when I have time but needless to say - it's the carplay/android auto module I installed from aliexpress and the connections used there. Pro-tip for future folks. |
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