Low Boost warning - shot vac lines?

[clueby4]

Hi all,

For the last few weeks i’ve been getting the engine light (reduced power) come on when giving it a squirt in 2nd or 3rd, but it’s not consistent.

Had a poke under the hood this evening and noticed one of the lines appears to be crushed flat by a clip. pics attached.

I’m guessing this is not ideal…

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by clueby4

Hi all,

For the last few weeks i’ve been getting the engine light (reduced power) come on when giving it a squirt in 2nd or 3rd, but it’s not consistent.

Had a poke under the hood this evening and noticed one of the lines appears to be crushed flat by a clip. pics attached.

I’m guessing this is not ideal…

What codes are being thrown?

[clueby4]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

What codes are being thrown?

003100 - DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation
0030FF - DME turbocharger, boost pressure too low
002A82 - DME: VANOS intake

I’ve just hit 80k/km with original VANOS and boost solenoids, so have ordered replacements along with silicone vac hose.

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by clueby4

003100 - DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation
0030FF - DME turbocharger, boost pressure too low
002A82 - DME: VANOS intake

I’ve just hit 80k/km with original VANOS and boost solenoids, so have ordered replacements along with silicone vac hose.

Have you checked the charge-pipe? 30FF is frequently a boost leak there.

[clueby4]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

Have you checked the charge-pipe? 30FF is frequently a boost leak there.

I didn’t notice any unusual sounds indicative of a leak, but it’s worth further inspection. i’m still running the original pipe (02/2010). Been contemplating replacing it with one of the VSRF pipes for a while so might just bite the bullet and order one.

It’s not visible in the pics above, but the other side of the clip holding the braided vac off the T splitter looks like it’s flattened the hose, so i plan on getting in there on the weekend and replacing it.

Thanks for your help!

[clueby4]

Had a better look under the hood and discovered the OEM plastic chargepipe stabilizing mount appears to have sheared off, pics attached.

I've gone ahead and ordered a VRSF pipe

[PRTSB1M]

Originally Posted by clueby4

I've gone ahead and ordered a VRSF pipe

Since the replacement will be a rigid metal pipe, it helps to loosen the four bolts holding the throttle body to the intake manifold during install (so you can wiggle it into place).

[clueby4]

Originally Posted by PRTSB1M

Since the replacement will be a rigid metal pipe, it helps to loosen the four bolts holding the throttle body to the intake manifold during install (so you can wiggle it into place).

Appreciate the heads up!

I replaced the Vanos solenoids last night and went for a decent drive. The vanos code is now gone, only one remaining is low boost. Getting there!

[clueby4]

I think I found my problem... Took the air box off and was presented with this (I haven't removed c-clip):

Good thing my replacement arrives today! (not bad fedex & vrsf, 6 days from FL to Tasmania!)

Thanks for your advice @PRTSB1M, much appreciated!

[wheela]

Another one bites the dust! The factory charge pipe connection is comically bad. I'm glad you found it, and like you said, your replacement is just on time!

[clueby4]

So after doing the following:

- replacing boost solenoids (genuine bmw)
- replacing vanos solenoids (genuine bmw)
- replacing all vac lines (omg was the rear turbo a PITA to get at)
- replacing the vac tanks w/ vtt aluminium tanks
- replacing turbo inlets w/ vrsf silicone inlets (oem location)
- replacing upper chargepipe w/ vrsf aluminium pipe with hks ssqv bov
- replacing intercooler w/ vrsf 5”
- replacing lower chargepipe w/ vrsf aluminium (came with intercooler)
- replacing pcv with RB pcv

I’m still throwing codes:
003100 - DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation
002A82 - DME: Vanos intake

edit: should have mentioned the codes generally seem to trigger at low rpm/low throttle from a complete stop. /edit

Have swapped the intake and exhaust vanos solenoids and the code sticks with intake.
🤬

Any suggestions on where to look next?

I’d assume testing vacuum and smoke tests would be a logical place to start next?

In other news my mickey mouse flange disintegrated and I snapped one of the fking bolts off in the block. I was advised by a local shop it would be expensive to get removed as “the block is magnesium alloy”, I was under the belief the n54 (02/2010 e82 135i) was an aluminium block? (the n53 was mag/alloy though?). Am I ok to centre tap the bolt, drill it with a hand drill, and use an easy out to extract it? sadly there’s no bolt outside the block