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View Poll Results: I own a... | |||
2008 model and the waterpump failed. | 176 | 14.05% | |
2008 model and the waterpump is ok. | 194 | 15.48% | |
2009 model and the waterpump failed. | 65 | 5.19% | |
2009 model and the waterpump is ok. | 195 | 15.56% | |
2010 model and the waterpump failed. | 18 | 1.44% | |
2010 model and the waterpump is ok. | 87 | 6.94% | |
2011 model and the waterpump failed. | 73 | 5.83% | |
2011 model and the waterpump is ok. | 172 | 13.73% | |
2012 model and the waterpump failed. | 52 | 4.15% | |
2012 model and the waterpump is ok. | 103 | 8.22% | |
2013 model and the waterpump failed. | 23 | 1.84% | |
2013 model and the waterpump is ok. | 95 | 7.58% | |
Voters: 1253. You may not vote on this poll |
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05-08-2018, 03:38 PM | #507 | |
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Drives: 2013 128i LE
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Quote:
After driving for 20-30 minutes yesterday, the yellow overheating light came on, but the red light never came on. Turned it off and back on again and it went away. My commute to work is only 10 minutes, so I didn't get the warning light since the first day when I drove it home from the shop.
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05-10-2018, 04:16 PM | #508 | |
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Or maybe the shop didn't bleed the cooling system properly. Can you read codes on your own? I would do that first. Often times the DME will throw a water pump code before the pump fails totally. You could also bleed the cooling system by putting the key into the slot, hit the start button but don't start the car, just get the dash lights to come on. Then put your foot and HOLD it down on the gas pedal(without the engine running) to put the cooling system into the bleed down mode. This will run the water pump in cycles. Put the heat level on HIGH. This will bleed the cooling system after ten minutes. Check your coolant expansion tank(only with a COLD engine) to also make sure you have enough coolant. Often times after a cooling system repair, the system will "burb" itself and be low. Dackel
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05-11-2018, 05:24 PM | #509 | |
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Dackelone10588.50 |
07-12-2018, 10:33 AM | #512 | ||
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He told me $450 for the part, and $100 for his labor. But he was doing additional work that was part of the overall labor job. And I think he gets a kickback or volume discount on the part. |
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07-25-2018, 01:44 PM | #513 |
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2011 E88 DCT 37k miles. Had pump, t'stat, U-hose and coolant replaced yesterday. $1125 at my local indy vs $1550 from dealer.
My oil temp was down from 250 to a little over 200 on my 16 mile drive to work from the shop. It sort of shows how the old pump doesn't appear to have been circulating very well and leaving the heat to be absorbed into the oil. |
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Dackelone10588.50 |
07-25-2018, 02:21 PM | #514 | |
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Has the part changed substantially in design or electric requirement? Curious why you swapped these parts so early. Since I have more or less the same car It’s of interest to me... preventive maintenance or pending issue? |
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07-25-2018, 03:09 PM | #515 | ||
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Dackelone10588.50 |
07-26-2018, 03:40 PM | #517 | |
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I replaced the pump, thermostat and hose because I had the yellow temp light flash on momentarily on 2 out of 3 drives and didn't want to get caught in a bad place. This car not a DD and only comes out when the top can go down. |
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Dackelone10588.50 |
07-27-2018, 07:02 AM | #518 |
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The water pump failure is more a function of mileage and not the MY of the vehicle. If that information had been collected, a probability distribution could have been constructed giving a good idea when to anticipate the failure.
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08-13-2018, 08:33 AM | #520 |
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I have a 2008 135i (N54) with about 70K on it. I've definitely had the thermostat replaced. I have no dealer invoices showing a water-pump replacement, but the pump looks substantially younger than the surrounding hardware which makes me wonder about its age relative to everything else.
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08-13-2018, 08:56 AM | #521 |
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I was thinking about pushing the limits with my water pump to see how many miles I can go before it fails. I chickened out. Had it replaced just before 75k miles. Here's the interesting thing. Haven't even had it the car back more than a day. The brand new in the box OE water pump failed. So back went the car to the dealer to have a new water pump put in to replace the new water pump. Makes me wonder if I would have better reliability if I had kept the original water pump from the manufacturing line in the engine.
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Dackelone10588.50 |
08-13-2018, 09:28 PM | #522 | |
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Sorry to hear, but at least you'll get it replaced under warranty. Shouldn't happen, though. Like you got nothing better to do with your time.
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08-13-2018, 09:57 PM | #524 |
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2012 N55, According to the previous owner original water pump failed at around 40k, I'm currently on the 2nd pump at 56k
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08-13-2018, 10:44 PM | #525 |
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It's all been taken care of already. I just got around to posting about it now. Had to deal with this ordeal about a month ago. So technically, I am probably the lowest number of miles to have a failed water pump. About 30 miles on a new pump and not even a day before failure.
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Esteban43818.50 |
08-31-2018, 10:19 PM | #526 |
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09-22-2018, 01:17 PM | #527 |
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Drives: 2010 128i, manual, sport pkg
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My pump didn't fail, but replaced it along with a failing thermostat, 2010 128i 93k miles. Interesting, I strongly suspect the thermostat failure was due to water exposure from a hole in the under tray
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10-13-2018, 05:26 AM | #528 |
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2007 130i, N52.
Water pump & thermostat replaced at approx 155,000 miles - precautionary measure only, originals were still functioning correctly. 2011 1M Coupe, N54. 31,000 miles, original water pump and thermostat still functioning correctly. |
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