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12-24-2013, 01:57 PM | #1 |
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Suggestions for best replacement front rotors?
BMW replaced my OEM pads right before warranty expired, but the front rotors were "just barely" within spec and I couldn't get a new sets via warranty. 3000 miles later, I'm feeling enough lip that it's time to replace the front rotors.
Any suggestions for best replacement rotors? Assume I'll keep the almost new OEM pads, but might upgrade to a slightly better pad down the road. The 135i might see one or two track days a year (using Motul fluids). I can do brake pads/rotors for my Miata in my sleep. Any reason the BMW would be more complicated? Thanks. |
12-25-2013, 08:53 AM | #2 |
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Changing pads and rotors are not any more difficult than other cars. You just have 6 pistons to push back instead of one. Everything else is fairly similar. There are some 135 DIY instructions on here if you need them.
In terms of rotors, a lot of people go with blanks from centric or Zimmerman.
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12-25-2013, 12:18 PM | #3 |
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http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_E8...ors/ES2550968/
2-piece semi floating, will help cool the rotors faster + about 8 lbs. lighter then stock |
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12-25-2013, 12:22 PM | #4 |
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I would only use BMW rotors bought from a dealer. IF you want something more special opt for the Performance rotors which are slotted and drilled. All the aftermarket rotors will not preform like the OE BMW ones. You will also need new (2)set screws for the rotor hats. G.L.
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12-25-2013, 02:36 PM | #5 | |
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OP i'd just go with blanks. Drilled won't offer you any benefit on a street driven car. BMWP rotors if you really want to I guess. I'd generally agree not to stray from OE for brakes, but for what it's worth I know several folks who have run those ECS rotors pretty hard with zero issues.
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12-25-2013, 05:22 PM | #6 |
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I just use BMW Performance rotors and redstuff. I bought HAWK HP+ this time around... Never again. Use these bolts for the hats.
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ors/ES2162802/
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12-25-2013, 06:39 PM | #7 |
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OP, have you mic'ed your rotors? Just because they are forming a lip does not mean they need to be replaced.
Minimum thickness is posted on the hat of the rotor. |
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12-25-2013, 07:28 PM | #8 |
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Yes, the dealer did that when they replaced the pads. I dont recall the actual measurement, but I was 2mm from bare minimum specs, I think.
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12-25-2013, 08:08 PM | #9 | |
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12-25-2013, 08:17 PM | #10 | ||
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Look up: SI B 34 05 08 http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...b-34-05-08.pdf Quote:
Check your minimum thickness and starting thickness of the rotor (typically by realoem or similar)...but just FYI No reason to throw away money. |
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12-26-2013, 01:19 AM | #11 | |
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Hey Dacke, I was wondering if you have heard anything hopefully good about EBC sports rotors? I just picked up a set plus red stuff pads. Thanks!
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12-26-2013, 05:08 AM | #12 | |
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Here you go! You will need one per rotor... bmw p/n 34211161806 #3 in this picture... http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...66&hg=34&fg=07
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12-26-2013, 05:14 AM | #13 | |
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No, sorry I do not. On past BMW's I just got tired of the poor quality of aftermarket rotors. Its not something you can tell right away... but say after six months or use... you know what junk you bought with OEM vs BMW OE parts. There is a difference. On my old e39 I went thru several brake rotors before breaking down and buying BMW OE ones. I am glad I did. No more rotor issues like vibrations under braking and shorter stopping distances. The BMW rotors even felt heavier to me than the OEM ones. For my 135i I went with BMW Performance rotors. I am happy with them. And they just look great!
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12-26-2013, 06:33 AM | #14 | |
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Sadly, people never want to take someone's word on this, they have to learn the hard way. The really good indy BMW shop near me actually refuses to work with OEM parts as they got tired of being blamed for their failings. |
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12-26-2013, 07:05 AM | #15 | |
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Yup. Totally agree with your shop.
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12-26-2013, 07:55 AM | #16 |
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What about Zimmerman? Aren't they the supplier for the oe brakes?
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12-26-2013, 08:13 AM | #17 | |
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OE parts have to meet stringent inspection and proofing standards from BMW. That Roundel being stamped on there isn't simply to raise the price. At best, OEM parts are extras that were never proofed. At worst, they are ones that were rejected that the manufacture resells to recoup some of the production cost. Sometimes they just meander around in the middle ground of being the right measurements, but out of spec in other ways(eg long term heat cycling on rotors). It is just never worth it. There are factory OE parts, and then there are a few aftermarket upgrades that are an improvement over stock. Usually even then you have to give up something more than cash.
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12-26-2013, 08:17 AM | #18 | ||
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I figured as much. I always knew you were about the OE stuff. I just never thought the oem supplier would be THAT different. OE it is for me then when I have to switch
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12-26-2013, 10:20 AM | #19 |
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Much like preventative maintenance, it often ends up saving you money down the road.
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12-26-2013, 11:01 AM | #20 |
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Yes, these are very good...two things, though....they don't make a L and R, so on the passenger side, the slots are going the wrong way, and they're not full floating, even though they have nice aluminum hats...I polished mine on the buffer to a mirror finish....
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12-26-2013, 12:30 PM | #21 | |
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12-26-2013, 12:46 PM | #22 | |
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