So I bought a battery...

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by MDRex

How well do these cheap $10 adapters work? I see BMWhat branded adapters on Amazon for $30. Is it worth the extra $20, or will the cheapies provide the same functionality for coding?

Honestly I'm almost 100% sure theirs is just rebranded.

I have this one I use for data logging via autocross

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ELM327-..._Tools&vxp=mtr

I used it on the test version of BMWhat and had no comm issues.

[MDRex]

Thanks. That's the one I saw. I'll go with that when the time comes.

[JimD]

You can also register a battery with one of the sub codes that comes with NCSExpert. The software is cheap and sometimes even free but you need a cable. I bought one for about $100. The software runs on a laptop. No smart phone required.

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

Honestly I'm almost 100% sure theirs is just rebranded.

I have this one I use for data logging via autocross

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ELM327-..._Tools&vxp=mtr

I used it on the test version of BMWhat and had no comm issues.

The cheap ELM327 I had did have communications issues with BMWhat and I ended up buying one of ivini-apps dongles instead of trying to find another cheap one that worked.

The cheap one did work perfectly with Torque Pro, though.

[project jayden]

Originally Posted by Suprgnat

The cheap ELM327 I had did have communications issues with BMWhat and I ended up buying one of ivini-apps dongles instead of trying to find another cheap one that worked.

The cheap one did work perfectly with Torque Pro, though.

That's weird. I've been using the ELM dongle for the past 4 months with no issues.

[PA135i]

Originally Posted by mr.fabulous

This is my one and only DD... and having to schlepp it to any shop and wait, or leave it and get a rental, is something I very much want to avoid. What would be nice would be to find an alternative source for a battery that I do not have to code (lower cost, same physical parameters). That, I don't know how to do.

you probably have to wait all of 30 minutes at a dealership to get the bat installed. Just saying is it worth the money to buy a tool you will use once.. since the battery lasts 6 - 7 years. question... what's a schlepp?

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by project jayden

That's weird. I've been using the ELM dongle for the past 4 months with no issues.

There're a bazillion ELM dongles, but not all work.

I got my first one from Dealextreme and a simple search on their site for "ELM327" yields 75 hits in various configurations. That's just one web site.

[luv135i]

I use the elm327 i got from amazon last week on my iphone 5s no problems. Registered a new battery last weekend as well as coded a few new features. Worked on the 1 and the 3 just fine.

[Diver]

My observation is none of these adaptors are expensive. I am amazed at how sophisticated the technology is, but dismayed by what used to be a simple DIY operation now requires coding. I wonder if this issue is widespread, or just with BMW's.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Diver

My observation is none of these adaptors are expensive. I am amazed at how sophisticated the technology is, but dismayed by what used to be a simple DIY operation now requires coding. I wonder if this issue is widespread, or just with BMW's.

ALL cars are getting ridiculously complicated. I spend more time diagnosing and repairing all the electronic parts of the car than anything else these days. Most customers will complain about their bluetooth not working before complaining about performance loss or bad brakes, bad handling or bald tires. Most people don't even notice that anymore, all they care is the thing will actually move, and all the stupid electronics work.

I realised this one day as I was performing a software update on a negative battery cable on a MDX one day. Battery cable software update....

Wheels about to fall off? Who cares! As long as the rear seat DVD player works.

'end {rant}

[Diver]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

ALL cars are getting ridiculously complicated.

Wheels about to fall off? Who cares! As long as the rear seat DVD player works.

True. Around here the air conditioner is as important as the motor. I am not too wild about electronics. One of the things I like about my 135i is the lack of digital BS or an LCD screen, as the car was designed back in 2006. Folks make a big deal about getting HK sound but my tin ears can't tell the difference. My phone will hook into the bluetooth, but I don't bother to do it.

[mr.fabulous]

Originally Posted by Diver

One of the things I like about my 135i is the lack of digital BS or an LCD screen

+1, I wouldn't have bought my car with iDrive

[mr.fabulous]

The last time I bought a battery (for my departed E36), I found the Interstate product I wanted at a gas station. Dude there insisted on installing it, and well OK, what the heck. He had a little battery widget he connected to my OBD2 port that he said would prevent the car from losing its settings (radio, etc). It didn't work... but it did get me to thinking.

Would it make sense to connect a battery tender under the hood when disconnecting the battery (to retain the car's settings)? Or would having the battery not in the circuit somehow blow things up?

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by mr.fabulous

Would it make sense to connect a battery tender under the hood when disconnecting the battery (to retain the car's settings)? Or would having the battery not in the circuit somehow blow things up?

I would think that would work, but I don't know how the electronics in battery tender would react with a missing battery... It might be better/safer to connect a small 12V hobby battery in parallel before removing the car battery.

[kioneo]

Originally Posted by JimD

You can also register a battery with one of the sub codes that comes with NCSExpert. The software is cheap and sometimes even free but you need a cable. I bought one for about $100. The software runs on a laptop. No smart phone required.

I second this. I almost bought the BMWhat app but settled on learning NCS Expert and bought the $100 USB cable. If you don't mind spending the time and learning, research NCS Expert/INPA/Tool32 and Rheingold. Your $100 cable will become a lot more valuable. But be advised you'll get hooked. Yes you can register the battery (and SO much more) with this method.

But for sheer ease of use and getting started right away, the BMWhat app is hard to beat.

[MightyMouseTech]

I doubt the tender would work without seeing the load from a battery. And I would not trust the tender to be "clean" 12V. The battery acts as a filter on the system.

I know if you remove a battery and let the alternator keep everything alive, there is a very real chance you will fry a lot of shit with the unclean voltage.

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

I doubt the tender would work without seeing the load from a battery. And I would not trust the tender to be "clean" 12V. The battery acts as a filter on the system.

I know if you remove a battery and let the alternator keep everything alive, there is a very real chance you will fry a lot of shit with the unclean voltage.

That's true... The battery is pure DC voltage while DC from the alternator or an AC source would have artifacts like AC ripple which could be a problem for sensitive electronics.

[mr.fabulous]

So how much of a 12,V battery do I need to keep all my memory alive while I swap batteries?

[bmw1racer]

Originally Posted by mr.fabulous

So how much of a 12,V battery do I need to keep all my memory alive while I swap batteries?

I think something like this (or equivalent) would be sufficient: http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EX...ds=12v+battery

I've never tried the two batteries in parallel trick, so proceed with caution.

[mr.fabulous]

Huh, those are UPS batteries, I have several (UPSes). I suppose I could rob one for a bit, that's actually a decent idea.

[potxoli]

losing all the settings might not be such a bad thing. It is like a computer reboot, forcing the car to learn again. In my case since I am primarily stuck in heavy traffic during my commute, I find that the times I've disconnected the battery for some reason, when the car starts up again it feels like the throttle map is more aggressive and pulls better.

[JimD]

You could try a memory saver that uses a 9V battery. There is a report on Amazon that says it worked for them on a X3. If it is going to work, you would have to avoid any significant current draw.