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      09-27-2018, 08:47 AM   #23
bbnks2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo135i View Post
Any half competent BMW tech knows about this relatively common issue and should know what to do if the belt shreds.

Doesn't sound like he is dealing with one...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo135i View Post
Also I do not understand why they would replace an oil pan gasket and not the leaking oil filter housing first, as the oil filter housing is a much more obvious and critical leak. Not to mention when it leaks badly enough oil makes its way around the seam of the oil pan and makes it look like it’s leaking when in fact it may not be.
They probably just assumed the oil leak was the pan. If they aren't that familiar with these cars then they wouldn't know about the OFHG leak and how the oil wicks down the entire side of the motor making it look like a rear main seal or oil pan leak...

If they snapped the drive belt then the front main seal should be checked. There is no way an OFHG replacement caused spun bearings unless they pinched the gasket cause fluids to mix. I think you would be able to spot coolant in oil pretty easily though... Might be time to lawyer up. Sound like they already tore the engine down so you won't be able to see the front main seal for yourself... or, the fluids they took out.
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      10-19-2018, 01:36 PM   #24
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Turns out it is a crank bearing. They recommend at this point a new or used engine. They quoted me 11k for a used engine and labor 3k of that is labor for swap. Decided to look at engine shops.

I got with a company out of houston called MMP after doing some searching. 5K for them to rebuild the engine with shipping back and forth from dallas. Also going to get a new turbo since the engine will be out. Requested a loan for 9k and starting the process if I get approved.

Here's a link to the engine shop. Wish me luck!

https://mmp-e.com/collections/produc...engine-program
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      10-20-2018, 05:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb View Post
I did my OFHG about one month ago. Had this thread been up then, I might not have done the job myself.

Anyway, all went well.

In general, one can pull the fuses for low and high pressure fuel pumps then crank the car. This will get the oil pump and all mechanicals spinning and send oil through the block. However, the one response from a tech, above, says the problem is due to an air bubble and cavitation that will not clear the pump. That's a bigger problem.
Same!! this is scary, I literally just popped it off put the new gasket in and popped it back on and went on with life
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      10-23-2018, 12:03 PM   #26
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Decided to add a stage Pure Stage 1 rebuild and a Burger Race intercooler to the build because... I'm already down the rabbit hole. Got the financing yesterday. Here we go!

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_135_...tercooler.html

https://www.pureturbos.com/store/bmw...o-upgrade.html
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      02-17-2019, 09:15 PM   #27
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Same thing happened to me last week. Brought my '11 x5 to get Valve cover gasket and OFHG changed and when they went out for a test drive they said the motor stopped and wouldn't start/the starter will no turn over the engine. They then towed it to the shop and removed the oil filter and there were metal filings in the oil (to me it didn't seem like a lot, but I'm not sure) they then opened my old oil filter and there were filings in that one also (seemed to be less filings than in the new one). They are saying that there two possibilities for this failure.
1. At some point my car ran low on oil.

2. There was some sort of carbon build up on the springs inside the valve cover and when the oil change was done the detergent washed it loose and this "carbon" clogged an oil port somewhere.

I should mention that I had just purchased the vehicle on
Dec 06 2018 and I only ran less than 6000km(3500 miles). So as far as whether proper oil changes were done in the past I do not know.

The shop/ mechanics claim no responsibility.
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      03-03-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guslealisla View Post
Turns out it is a crank bearing. They recommend at this point a new or used engine. They quoted me 11k for a used engine and labor 3k of that is labor for swap. Decided to look at engine shops.

I got with a company out of houston called MMP after doing some searching. 5K for them to rebuild the engine with shipping back and forth from dallas. Also going to get a new turbo since the engine will be out. Requested a loan for 9k and starting the process if I get approved.

Here's a link to the engine shop. Wish me luck!

https://mmp-e.com/collections/produc...engine-program
I wouldn't do this. Sometimes you have to take losses in life. If you don't, it'll cost you more in the long run.

First, you should see what you can get out of this shop. It may be worth a couple of dollars to get the opinion of an attorney. Short of that, junk it or part it out.
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