128i ECU tune/flash questions, could use feedback (StageFP/BPC)

[Gambeez]

I'm looking to install a 3 stage intake manifold over the weekend. Additionally, I purchased the StageFP tune which is on the way.

Those who have flashed their own 128i. What process did you go through to do it?

How long did it take?

Did you use a PSU, or charger? I have a BMW/CTEK charger but not sure if that would be enough for the 128i.

I'm hesitant to move forward with anything at the moment since I'm worried I'll do damage to my car.

Any feedback/knowledge would be appreciate to those who have done this.

[xshadowspy]

Originally Posted by Gambeez

I'm looking to install a 3 stage intake manifold over the weekend. Additionally, I purchased the StageFP tune which is on the way.

Those who have flashed their own 128i. What process did you go through to do it?

How long did it take?

Did you use a PSU, or charger? I have a BMW/CTEK charger but not sure if that would be enough for the 128i.

I'm hesitant to move forward with anything at the moment since I'm worried I'll do damage to my car.

Any feedback/knowledge would be appreciate to those who have done this.

If you have basic computer skills the process should be easy. As for how long it takes copying the ECU is the longest part it takes about a hour to copy. I highly recommend have the car on a charger for this. The second part uploading the tune only takes like 10mins so you don't need a charger for that part. I just used some portable charger I bought off Amazon worked well enough to hold charge for the battery for a hour.

[Gambeez]

Originally Posted by xshadowspy

If you have basic computer skills the process should be easy. As for how long it takes copying the ECU is the longest part it takes about a hour to copy. I highly recommend have the car on a charger for this. The second part uploading the tune only takes like 10mins so you don't need a charger for that part. I just used some portable charger I bought off Amazon worked well enough to hold charge for the battery for a hour.

The computer skills I'm not worried about.

I was more so worried about the battery and whether I need a PSU or if a charging it and leaving it on charge would be enough.

Appreciate the feedback!

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by xshadowspy

If you have basic computer skills the process should be easy. As for how long it takes copying the ECU is the longest part it takes about a hour to copy. I highly recommend have the car on a charger for this. The second part uploading the tune only takes like 10mins so you don't need a charger for that part. I just used some portable charger I bought off Amazon worked well enough to hold charge for the battery for a hour.

+1. Use a charger. I used one off of Amazon as well.

Plus make sure the car doesn't go into sleep mode. Talking with Bob, he advised me to turn on acc mode, fasten the drivers side seat-belt, even turn on the running lights. But don't let anything interrupt the upload/download.

And do not open any doors while it's taking place.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

+1. Use a charger. I used one off of Amazon as well.

Plus make sure the car doesn't go into sleep mode. Talking with Bob, he advised me to turn on acc mode, fasten the drivers side seat-belt, even turn on the running lights. But don't let anything interrupt the upload/download.

And do not open any doors while it's taking place.

++1

I was paranoid also. I've done this a couple of times as I had a plain stage 1 tune before the 3 stage IM. First time around the battery was pretty old (7 yrs, original). I went for a long drive, came back and immediately plugged in a CTEK charger overnight. Did the flash in the morning all was fine.

Second time I had replaced the battery (last fall), did the same thing anyway, all good.

I just made sure to turn everythng possible off, windows down, lights off, radio, AC, all off. Sat in the car and watched very carefully ensuring the laptop didn't fall asleep as it did the write. And yes, DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR while it's happening.

The car will make all sorts of noises as it goes through the process...all normal. Good luck!

[Rmtt]

Yeah...the first time I did it I was paranoid. And I have been flashing Corvettes for years.

But I've flashed my BMW 3X so far.

[spidertri]

Just this week I moved from the BPC tune on my car to a new StageFP tune, I was pretty paranoid about the battery being stable so I ended up borrowing a 40A battery charger from a friend and it worked no problem.

I set my laptop on the roof of the car (in the garage) and ran the tuning cable up from the OBD port. That way I didn't need to open the door for any reason while it was doing it's thing. Downloading the stock tune took an hour, flashing the mod file took 10mins.

I did pull the fuel pump fuse so that it wasn't running the whole time. That kept the battery much more stable during the process. I had initially left the fuse in place when I reverted from the BPC tune back to stock and the battery voltage was fluctuating between 12.3 and 13.7 the whole time which was a little nerve wracking.

[Gambeez]

Originally Posted by spidertri

Just this week I moved from the BPC tune on my car to a new StageFP tune, I was pretty paranoid about the battery being stable so I ended up borrowing a 40A battery charger from a friend and it worked no problem.

I set my laptop on the roof of the car (in the garage) and ran the tuning cable up from the OBD port. That way I didn't need to open the door for any reason while it was doing it's thing. Downloading the stock tune took an hour, flashing the mod file took 10mins.

I did pull the fuel pump fuse so that it wasn't running the whole time. That kept the battery much more stable during the process. I had initially left the fuse in place when I reverted from the BPC tune back to stock and the battery voltage was fluctuating between 12.3 and 13.7 the whole time which was a little nerve wracking.

Interesting, do you know what fuse is for the fuel pump? I'll probably disconnect that to be on the safe side as well. I've heard that can be a big power suck when doing this process. Don't know if it's as bad with the 128i as it is with it's turbo'd brethren.

[Gambeez]

Just a follow up. Today I managed to successfully download the ECU files. Probably the most stressful part since it takes the longest. But everything went well charging the battery to full and leaving the charger on. Appreciate everyone’s feed back.

Very excited to get the tune files installed from StageFP since even without it I can tell the car is pulling much harder with the 3 stage manifold installed. Rips through 2nd with no problem and a noticeable second life hits at 5K RPM.

Most people hardly say there’s a difference without the tune but it’s pretty noticeable. I don’t know if it’s because I had my battery disconnected while swapping since I had to replace my starter as well. But boy am I giddy.

I can only wonder how much better it will get after the tune.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Gambeez

Just a follow up. Today I managed to successfully download the ECU files. Probably the most stressful part since it takes the longest. But everything went well charging the battery to full and leaving the charger on. Appreciate everyone’s feed back.

Very excited to get the tune files installed from StageFP since even without it I can tell the car is pulling much harder with the 3 stage manifold installed. Rips through 2nd with no problem and a noticeable second life hits at 5K RPM.

Most people hardly say there’s a difference without the tune but it’s pretty noticeable. I don’t know if it’s because I had my battery disconnected while swapping since I had to replace my starter as well. But boy am I giddy.

I can only wonder how much better it will get after the tune.

Having the battery disconnected will reset adaptations, but it won't operate the 3SI as you need the tune for that.

But even resetting adaptations can make the car feel different..ie..throttle response, etc.

Trust me, when you load the tune and the 3Si properly operates...you will be able to tell!

Good Luck.

[spidertri]

Originally Posted by Gambeez

Interesting, do you know what fuse is for the fuel pump? I'll probably disconnect that to be on the safe side as well. I've heard that can be a big power suck when doing this process. Don't know if it's as bad with the 128i as it is with it's turbo'd brethren.

Too late now but it was fuse #70 in my 2011 128i.

[Gambeez]

Good news, I received the tuned file from StageFP this morning and loaded it onto the car successfully with the CTEK charger through the whole process.

Initial impressions, it's different! One thing I'm kind of missing is the engine braking. It seems the tune really diminished the effect of that. Maybe the computers need to readapt to the tune from what I hear that's a thing. But I miss downshifting or letting off and getting that jerk forward just to slam it again. Made it feel more torquey than it does now.

But it definitely does deliver more power. Just cruising in 6th on the highway at lower RPMs I was able to notice a huge difference in the power if I wanted to get her going to pass somebody.

Will be looking into headers next. However, waiting to figure out a solution to finishing my quad exhaust. For some reason all the exhaust shops around me are bamboozled about doing a custom one. Trying to work with one now to rig up something like a Remus quad. He's floating me a 600-700 dollar price tag for a custom quad, but it's probably the best option so I don't have to ruin the diffuser for my 1M rep rear bumper to fit the Remus. Once I get that completed and my rear end doesn't look redneck (missing diffuser since new one doesn't fit current exhaust setup) I'll do the headers.

[Gambeez]

Update. Drove it some more this evening after taking my girlfriend to test drive a 228i.

One. I’m rather impressed by the power of the 228i and twin turbos. Surprisingly smooth. I had lower expectations. Especially right after doing the tune to my N52.

My 128i is ripping though. It’s amazing how light it feels on the highway. It just glides. 3rd gear mid range RPMs is amazing at WOT

And I’m in love with the burble tune. Little sad the burbles no longer occur right when I let off the gas (there’s a delay) opposed to pretune. BUT. BUT. The pops and cracks you get when you let off at 5k+ RPMs are wicked. Loving that just wish I didn’t have to be so high in the rev range to get them. I usually like to shift before 5k. So more reason to get the headers.

[Rmtt]

Headers are great. They open up the upper RPM range and let's the car feel like it;s not breathing through a straw.

I did the 3SI, then headers, then Milvs. Completely different car. Milvs add quite a bit of TQ in the mid-range.

I am also the biggest proponent of gears. My first mod to my 128 M-Sport was a 3:73 rear Diff out of an automatic.

Feels like you added a 100hp to it. You don't have to downshift at all for anything!

[Gambeez]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

Headers are great. They open up the upper RPM range and let's the car feel like it;s not breathing through a straw.

I did the 3SI, then headers, then Milvs. Completely different car. Milvs add quite a bit of TQ in the mid-range.

I am also the biggest proponent of gears. My first mod to my 128 M-Sport was a 3:73 rear Diff out of an automatic.

Feels like you added a 100hp to it. You don't have to downshift at all for anything!

Maybe one day I will get to doing the MILVS. I should have done them when I replaced my valve cover a couple of months ago. At this point I have 0 desire to go back through that shit show. I guess now it wouldn't be so bad after doing it once, but not ready to get back in there just yet.

Did you install the headers yourself? How bad would you say the install for those is? Seems like it will either be extremely difficult or pretty simple from what I've seen.

I'm on an auto M-Sport model so I believe I should already have the 3.73 diff going for me. Being on auto isn't always so bad.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Gambeez

Maybe one day I will get to doing the MILVS. I should have done them when I replaced my valve cover a couple of months ago. At this point I have 0 desire to go back through that shit show. I guess now it wouldn't be so bad after doing it once, but not ready to get back in there just yet.

Did you install the headers yourself? How bad would you say the install for those is? Seems like it will either be extremely difficult or pretty simple from what I've seen.

I'm on an auto M-Sport model so I believe I should already have the 3.73 diff going for me. Being on auto isn't always so bad.

Yeah...I installed my headers. They can be a pain at times f you have big arms. Just have to be patient as it's some weird angles to work around. Plenty of threads on here for DIY. I would rate them a 6 out of a 10.

Definitely not worth the price I have seen some people said that they were quoted for installs. I did mine on Jack Stands. I took a day taking them off, then installed the next day because of the reason below.

I would have new studs and nuts on hand for when you do it as they will tend to back out on you...and they are cheap. I had about half of my studs back out...so I had a full set sent next day to me for less than $30.

If you find my headers install thread, the part numbers are there.

[Papa Popov]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but is the SFP tune worth the cost to upgrade to from an OFT Stage 1 tune? Currently stock besides a K&N filter and a muffler delete, but I'm looking to add the 3IM in the near future, but AFAIK OFT offers a tune for that.

[Gambeez]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

Sorry to hijack the thread, but is the SFP tune worth the cost to upgrade to from an OFT Stage 1 tune? Currently stock besides a K&N filter and a muffler delete, but I'm looking to add the 3IM in the near future, but AFAIK OFT offers a tune for that.

I’m not sure. I hope somebody could chime in on this. But I’m pretty happy with it. The car is performing. However I’m getting some issues.

FWIW, and update on mine:

Finally hooked up my scanner and saw a bunch of error codes I’ve never had before. Don’t know if this was from the flash process or not. I’ve since cleared and they haven’t come back yet.

With those cleared I’m getting some jerkiness at low RPMs accelerating from a stop. Also happens in R when I’m parking.

Going to have to get ahold of Bob, going to give it another day and see if any codes return before reaching out.

[Papa Popov]

Originally Posted by Gambeez

I’m not sure. I hope somebody could chime in on this. But I’m pretty happy with it. The car is performing. However I’m getting some issues.

FWIW, and update on mine:

Finally hooked up my scanner and saw a bunch of error codes I’ve never had before. Don’t know if this was from the flash process or not. I’ve since cleared and they haven’t come back yet.

With those cleared I’m getting some jerkiness at low RPMs accelerating from a stop. Also happens in R when I’m parking.

Going to have to get ahold of Bob, going to give it another day and see if any codes return before reaching out.

FWIW I've had issues with the OFT tune as well. Got the half engine/reduced power light a couple weeks after I flashed the tune. Reflashed and cleared the codes and they haven't come back since. Also had issues with a rough idle after starting the car (fluctuating revs, whole car shaking). Planning on cleaning the VANOS solenoids soon to see if that is the issue.

[spidertri]

Originally Posted by Gambeez

I’m not sure. I hope somebody could chime in on this. But I’m pretty happy with it. The car is performing. However I’m getting some issues.

FWIW, and update on mine:

Finally hooked up my scanner and saw a bunch of error codes I’ve never had before. Don’t know if this was from the flash process or not. I’ve since cleared and they haven’t come back yet.

With those cleared I’m getting some jerkiness at low RPMs accelerating from a stop. Also happens in R when I’m parking.

Going to have to get ahold of Bob, going to give it another day and see if any codes return before reaching out.

Yeah, there's a ton of codes after the flashing process, just clear them and they shouldn't come back. It's also good to reset adaptations after flashing to force the car to relearn faster than it would on it's own.

I'm very happy with the SFP tune coming from the BPC tune that was on the car. The mid range power stands out as the biggest change.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Papa Popov

Sorry to hijack the thread, but is the SFP tune worth the cost to upgrade to from an OFT Stage 1 tune? Currently stock besides a K&N filter and a muffler delete, but I'm looking to add the 3IM in the near future, but AFAIK OFT offers a tune for that.

Just my opinion....but Bob (SFP) has tuned my car 3X already. 1st was 3SI, 2nd was Headers, 3rd was Milvs.

I was using him at BPC. He knows these cars in and out.

Car ran perfectly each time. At first there were some little quirks.....but after a couple hundred of miles, the car learned and has been spot on ever since!