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      02-25-2019, 09:31 AM   #11001
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Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
65 degrees yesterday was such a nice change. Went on a nice drive to Costco for gas with windows down, no radio, and no climate control running. It was so nice to just relax and feel all the feels, and hear all the hears (?) The LSD loves to chirp the tires in otherwise calm and cool driving, I feel a bit like an ass when it does

We've also got a 3D printer (Ender-3) in our house now, so I'm getting the itch to pick-up a cheap E46 M3 intake manifold to work with and make some glorious induction noises. I'm still pondering, though, if it would be better to just hack-up a stock N52 (non-DISA) manifold like BPC did for their awesome 8200-rpm dyno run (280whp), as it (obviously) would bolt right up, and is cheaper and easier to find than an S54 manifold.

519.E82 The filters have always felt weird going in, but it's always worked-out fine. It feels like it's binding between the housing and the cap and makes a horrible squeaking sound.
Yes! Thats exactly how it felt! Good to know i didn't mess up or buy the wrong one
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      02-26-2019, 01:20 AM   #11002
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Quick question on installing a front sway bar and would really like some help with it. Does installing only the front h&r sway bar help with understeer at all and if so how much of a difference does it make? Or would I need to do a rear sway bar? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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      02-26-2019, 05:33 AM   #11003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes135i View Post
Quick question on installing a front sway bar and would really like some help with it. Does installing only the front h&r sway bar help with understeer at all and if so how much of a difference does it make? Or would I need to do a rear sway bar? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

From what I have been reading....most install a Front only unless you have an LSD in the rear. Plus the rear install is more involved. Unless you are tracking the car, I think front is what most would recommend.

Now my car is a 128i with the "M" Suspension option. I have been trying to find thickness numbers of my front sway bar as I wouldn't mind going with a little upgrade.

I figured a thicker bar along with new rear sub-frame bushings would be plenty enough for me to have fun with on a daily driver.
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      02-26-2019, 06:59 AM   #11004
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Originally Posted by Rmtt View Post
I have been trying to find thickness numbers of my front sway bar as I wouldn't mind going with a little upgrade.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...postcount=9273

Here is the thickness of the stock M sport sway bar.
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      02-26-2019, 08:04 AM   #11005
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Originally Posted by Fakemike View Post
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...postcount=9273

Here is the thickness of the stock M sport sway bar.

Thanks!
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      02-26-2019, 09:46 AM   #11006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes135i View Post
Quick question on installing a front sway bar and would really like some help with it. Does installing only the front h&r sway bar help with understeer at all and if so how much of a difference does it make? Or would I need to do a rear sway bar? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I installed an Eibach (pretty much the same) FSB and it made a wonderful difference in how the car responded. There was much less entry understeer, but the mid-corner understeer was unchanged. The car feels much more taught and responsive, and it doesn't lean through the bends nearly as severely. If you want to reduce mid-corner understeer, I'd look at doing M3 control arms and Dinan camber plates, as those made the biggest difference for me in the front end.
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      02-26-2019, 10:52 AM   #11007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I installed an Eibach (pretty much the same) FSB and it made a wonderful difference in how the car responded. There was much less entry understeer, but the mid-corner understeer was unchanged. The car feels much more taught and responsive, and it doesn't lean through the bends nearly as severely. If you want to reduce mid-corner understeer, I'd look at doing M3 control arms and Dinan camber plates, as those made the biggest difference for me in the front end.
Does your car have a rear ARB?
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      02-26-2019, 10:54 AM   #11008
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Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Does your car have a rear ARB?
It didn't originally. I fitted a 15mm ECS Tuning rear sway bar. It was an absolute PITA. I also have an LSD...
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      02-26-2019, 11:13 AM   #11009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
It didn't originally. I fitted a 15mm ECS Tuning rear sway bar. It was an absolute PITA. I also have an LSD...
Aha, now I remember b/c you wrote up a diy for me about a year ago.

I've a 13mm OE bar (think it came off a 335i) sitting around. I did the RSFB inserts last week and had enough difficulty that I punted on the bar. I think I learned enough about how to manage the subframe drop that I might go back and tackle it.
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      02-26-2019, 11:16 AM   #11010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
It didn't originally. I fitted a 15mm ECS Tuning rear sway bar. It was an absolute PITA. I also have an LSD...
Aha, now I remember b/c you wrote up a diy for me about a year ago.

I've a 13mm OE bar (think it came off a 335i) sitting around. I did the RSFB inserts last week and had enough difficulty that I punted on the bar. I think I learned enough about how to manage the subframe drop that I might go back and tackle it.
It really helped when I installed solid subframe bushings to remove the exhaust hangers and let it dangle, so the subframe had more room to drop. Definitely needed for installing a RSB in a car that didn't have one originally, as you need to tap the bolt holes.
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      02-26-2019, 11:33 AM   #11011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
It really helped when I installed solid subframe bushings to remove the exhaust hangers and let it dangle, so the subframe had more room to drop. Definitely needed for installing a RSB in a car that didn't have one originally, as you need to tap the bolt holes.
I saw the bracket holes in the subframe but I think you mentioned tapping b/c they got filled with dirt. Did you disconnect brake lines?
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      02-26-2019, 11:35 AM   #11012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
It really helped when I installed solid subframe bushings to remove the exhaust hangers and let it dangle, so the subframe had more room to drop. Definitely needed for installing a RSB in a car that didn't have one originally, as you need to tap the bolt holes.
I saw the bracket holes in the subframe but I think you mentioned tapping b/c they got filled with dirt. Did you disconnect brake lines?
I did. If you do, disconnect between the soft lines and the lines running on the subframe. DO NOT disconnect the soft lines from the hard lines running on the body. The ones on the subframe are much easier to replace if they snap (mine snapped).
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      02-26-2019, 12:27 PM   #11013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I did. If you do, disconnect between the soft lines and the lines running on the subframe. DO NOT disconnect the soft lines from the hard lines running on the body. The ones on the subframe are much easier to replace if they snap (mine snapped).
Thanks. Probably going to take a time out on this one. I've been under or around the car for a bunch of work the last 2 weeks.

Did Whiteline adjustable front end links yesterday. Probably a waste of money as I'm not dropped that much.
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      02-26-2019, 12:52 PM   #11014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I did. If you do, disconnect between the soft lines and the lines running on the subframe. DO NOT disconnect the soft lines from the hard lines running on the body. The ones on the subframe are much easier to replace if they snap (mine snapped).
Thanks. Probably going to take a time out on this one. I've been under or around the car for a bunch of work the last 2 weeks.

Did Whiteline adjustable front end links yesterday. Probably a waste of money as I'm not dropped that much.
Well, now you're set if you do end up lowering it. I'm lowered and don't have adjustable end links (I'm not entirely sure why I might need them)...
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      02-26-2019, 12:57 PM   #11015
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Quote:
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Well, now you're set if you do end up lowering it. I'm lowered and don't have adjustable end links (I'm not entirely sure why I might need them)...
I'm about 20mm from stock so I figured might as well do it. There was a pretty good discussion about lowering and arb orientation on E90 post here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1523326
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      02-26-2019, 12:59 PM   #11016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Well, now you're set if you do end up lowering it. I'm lowered and don't have adjustable end links (I'm not entirely sure why I might need them)...
I'm about 20mm from stock so I figured might as well do it. There was a pretty good discussion about lowering and arb orientation on E90 post here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1523326
I'll have to check it out, thanks!
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      02-27-2019, 01:49 PM   #11017
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Went for a spirited drive this morning, just like every day. Weather was sunny, cool and crisp. Temp was about 55F. Really enjoying the drive and my new PS4S tires; they ride like a dream. When I get home and pull in my garage and get out I notice a motherf**king screw in my front driver's tire. Shit!

My first thought is to get a pair of pliers and pull it out, but common sense says drive to the tire store and let them pull it out and patch it if necessary. So I do and they pull it out and it's less than half an inch long and did not puncture the lining. They also sprayed some soapy water on it and no bubbles.

My Irish luck is still with me!
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      02-27-2019, 01:56 PM   #11018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esteban View Post
Went for a spirited drive this morning, just like every day. Weather was sunny, cool and crisp. Temp was about 55F. Really enjoying the drive and my new PS4S tires; they ride like a dream. When I get home and pull in my garage and get out I notice a motherf**cking screw in my front driver's tire. Shit!

My first thought is to get a pair of pliers and pull it out, but common sense says drive to the tire store and let them pull it out and patch it if necessary. So I do and they pull it out and it's less than half an inch long and did not puncture the lining. They also sprayed some soapy water on it and no bubbles.

My Irish luck is still with me!


Nice. I've had that happen once....and it happened to be so short, it was barely in the tire.

Feels good to win one every once in awhile!
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      02-27-2019, 02:04 PM   #11019
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I'll go with,
One isn't going to give enough grip. You need many many many more and they should go deeper so they don't pull out.
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      02-27-2019, 02:15 PM   #11020
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I'll go with,
One isn't going to give enough grip. You need many many many more and they should go deeper so they don't pull out.
Yeah, not much need for spiked tires here in SoCal but I'll bet you're having a blast with yours. lol
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      02-27-2019, 03:00 PM   #11021
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      02-27-2019, 03:07 PM   #11022
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