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      05-23-2018, 04:56 AM   #45
titium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandinca View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Look at my previous post. Was good initially, but overall I should have just gotten coilovers. No was not happy with it and did not hold up well over time. Front springs sagged and ride height kept going lower and lower.
Wonder if you can help me with a problem I'm having.
I just installed BMW PS and style 264's on my E88. Tires are 235/40/18.
When the steering is straight the tires are tucked under the fenders, when I turn there is about 3/4" of clearance between the tire and the fender lip which results in fender lip rubbing when turning and hitting bumps. They don't rub over bumps in a straight line.
Front camber pins are knocked out (Lemfoerder mounts) and I just had an alignment done, spec sheet states fronts are both set at -1.1 camber.

I see a couple of options.

1) Camber plates as you have done to get additional clearance.
2) Get a lower profile front tire, maybe a 35 ?

I would honestly rather not add negative camber and trash my tires, it's a daily driver that's fun to drive with good looks, not a track car, so I'm not looking for great handling, just fun. However, I can't deal with the rubbing in the turns over bumps.

Questions - is it possible to put camber plates in that will give me extra clearance without getting extended bolts in the strut mounts ? Ie, can I just unbolt the three nuts, lower the strut, slip the plate in then bolt it back up again without having to take it all apart or even remove the assembly from the knuckle ?
Or, do you think that a 35 profile will be enough difference that I will gain sufficient clearance when turning that it won't rub. It's really hard to say how hard it's hitting or if it's "only just catching it" so I guess I'm asking a question that's impossible for you to answer.

Any other suggestions ?

I have some 17's with tires on them that will give me a diameter that is overall almost the same as an 18 with a 35 profile so I'm going to run those on the front for a day or two to see if they rub. If they don't, I guess I have my answer.

The 264's came standard on some versions of the E88 so I know they must work, but that was on stock suspension with 215/40/18's, the BMW PS is a bit lower and that width and profile makes their overall diameter smaller as well.

I'm already about $1500 into this - can't just chase the solution, need an answer rather than throwing money at it.

Any suggestions ?
Are you running a 235 tyre on a 7.5" wheel?

You can run around -2-to -2.2deg of camber with no adverse effects on tyre wear (assuming other parameters are set correctly). handling really benefits from the extra camber as well.

Dinan camber plates and m3 control arms will get you there.
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      05-23-2018, 08:41 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titium View Post
Are you running a 235 tyre on a 7.5" wheel?

You can run around -2-to -2.2deg of camber with no adverse effects on tyre wear (assuming other parameters are set correctly). handling really benefits from the extra camber as well.

Dinan camber plates and m3 control arms will get you there.
Thanks, yes, 235/40 on a 7.5" wheel. It really only rubs when I turn and go over bumps while in the turn. Straight line there's plenty of clearance between the fender and the tire.I was thinking going to a 35 profile would help, would adding a degree of negative camber make that much of a difference to my problem ?
As for camber plates, what's involved ? Do I need to remove the top mounts and bearing (compress the spring etc) to put the camber plates on or can I just unbolt from the car, drop the suspension away from the mounting point and put the plates on. I figure that the bolts won't be long enough now with the extra thickness from the camber plate. Newbie..... ;-)
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      05-23-2018, 10:46 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandinca View Post
Thanks, yes, 235/40 on a 7.5" wheel. It really only rubs when I turn and go over bumps while in the turn. Straight line there's plenty of clearance between the fender and the tire.I was thinking going to a 35 profile would help, would adding a degree of negative camber make that much of a difference to my problem ?
As for camber plates, what's involved ? Do I need to remove the top mounts and bearing (compress the spring etc) to put the camber plates on or can I just unbolt from the car, drop the suspension away from the mounting point and put the plates on. I figure that the bolts won't be long enough now with the extra thickness from the camber plate. Newbie..... ;-)
The Dinan plates are easy pie to install. You loosen the lower control arm bolts, and drop the strut out of its mount. Then, you punch out the studs on the top mount (pliers work, too), place the Dinan plate on top, put the countersunk bolts down through the top of the plate, install the lock nuts, tighten them down, put the strut back in, snug-up the control arms. Lastly, settle the front suspension and torque everything down.

They also come with an instruction manual, but those are overrated.

I love mine, they really made the front end of the car much more effective than before.
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      05-23-2018, 11:29 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
The Dinan plates are easy pie to install. You loosen the lower control arm bolts, and drop the strut out of its mount. Then, you punch out the studs on the top mount (pliers work, too), place the Dinan plate on top, put the countersunk bolts down through the top of the plate, install the lock nuts, tighten them down, put the strut back in, snug-up the control arms. Lastly, settle the front suspension and torque everything down.

They also come with an instruction manual, but those are overrated.

I love mine, they really made the front end of the car much more effective than before.
Ahhh, now I see how they attach. Thanks Chris. Seems easy enough.
Question is, will they "lift" the car enough for my problem to be solved. Can you remember how thick the plates are ?
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      05-23-2018, 11:31 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandinca View Post
Ahhh, now I see how they attach. Thanks Chris. Seems easy enough.
Question is, will they "lift" the car enough for my problem to be solved. Can you remember how thick the plates are ?
IIRC, they were a bit under a quarter inch in thickness. Perfect for me since they stopped me slightly rubbing in my driveway.
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      05-23-2018, 04:19 PM   #50
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Thanks, probably not enough for what I need. However, after a lot of searching I found a post in another forum where someone had a similar issue and it was suggested that they loosen the pinch bolt and slip the strut out of the knuckle slightly then tighten the pinch bolt back up. I had thought of this but think it would screw up my alignment.
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      05-24-2018, 05:26 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandinca View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by titium View Post
Are you running a 235 tyre on a 7.5" wheel?

You can run around -2-to -2.2deg of camber with no adverse effects on tyre wear (assuming other parameters are set correctly). handling really benefits from the extra camber as well.

Dinan camber plates and m3 control arms will get you there.
Thanks, yes, 235/40 on a 7.5" wheel. It really only rubs when I turn and go over bumps while in the turn. Straight line there's plenty of clearance between the fender and the tire.I was thinking going to a 35 profile would help, would adding a degree of negative camber make that much of a difference to my problem ?
As for camber plates, what's involved ? Do I need to remove the top mounts and bearing (compress the spring etc) to put the camber plates on or can I just unbolt from the car, drop the suspension away from the mounting point and put the plates on. I figure that the bolts won't be long enough now with the extra thickness from the camber plate. Newbie..... ;-)
drop to a 225 tyre. 235 isn't ideal for a 7.5" rim really needs a 8" rim.

the profile is a percentage of the width so dropping to a 225 will also lower the profile height (even though they're both 40 profile).
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      05-24-2018, 09:04 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titium View Post
drop to a 225 tyre. 235 isn't ideal for a 7.5" rim really needs a 8" rim.

the profile is a percentage of the width so dropping to a 225 will also lower the profile height (even though they're both 40 profile).
Exactly what I was thinking. A 225/40 only gains 4mm but a 235/35 gains 11mm. A 225/35 gains 15mm

Ie-
235x40% = 94mm (current tire)
235x35% = 83mm
225x40% = 90mm
225x35% = 79mm

I don't think 225x40 is going to be enough (4mm) so it looks like the 235x35 would give enough clearance (11mm) but not be an ideal width. 225x35 might look too small.
Dunno. Food for thought.

Thanks.
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      06-19-2018, 03:23 PM   #53
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B12 Kit

Very interesting thread. I have 14k miles on my B12 kit and the low front clearance is an issue. Additionally, the ride seems to have gotten really firm. So much so that I'm considering something else maybe even going back to OEM. Do you guys have thoughts on this?

Thanks,

John
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      06-20-2018, 07:43 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain135 View Post
Very interesting thread. I have 14k miles on my B12 kit and the low front clearance is an issue. Additionally, the ride seems to have gotten really firm. So much so that I'm considering something else maybe even going back to OEM. Do you guys have thoughts on this?

Thanks,

John
Thanks. You've just made my decision for me.

I've been tossing up getting B8's with my stock m-sport springs, or go the B12's. If you read back on this thread, you'll see vtl (the original poster) ended up getting sick of the low clearance and went with full coilovers.

My E88 on m-sport springs scrapes the front as it is; so I'm worried about going any lower... If you go to the e90 forums, you'll find people saying exactly the same thing as you - the prokit springs are too low and too harsh... I was kinda writing it off as soft 3-series owners who wish they'd got an M5

Anyway, I don't have first hand experience, but I can say you're not alone; and I'll be joining the "man, that car would look sweet if it were an inch lower, in some ways I wish I'd got those cut springs" club instead (I'm sticking with the stock m-sport springs).
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