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      10-29-2014, 01:31 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Can anyone she some light on how difficult it is to swap out the bushings? Do you need a bushing press or can they be swapped with your typical household mechanic tools?
I'd like to know this too. Local shop quoted me approximately 2hrs per bushing to remove and reinstall the bushings. Also told me that the bushings can't be removed while on the vehicle and that a special tool is required. If that is the case I can't see that replacing the bushings is cost effective. I may just swap the trailing arms and move on.
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      10-29-2014, 01:47 PM   #24
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It depends on the amount of pressure required to press them out, some bushings you just can't do by hand while underneath a car. The redneck and extremely risky way to do it is by cutting the bushing.
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      10-29-2014, 02:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pirate View Post
I'd like to know this too. Local shop quoted me approximately 2hrs per bushing to remove and reinstall the bushings. Also told me that the bushings can't be removed while on the vehicle and that a special tool is required. If that is the case I can't see that replacing the bushings is cost effective. I may just swap the trailing arms and move on.
The control arm can only be as affective as the bushings they are attached to. In this case the bushings are somewhat on the softer side.
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      10-29-2014, 02:57 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
The control arm can only be as affective as the bushings they are attached to. In this case the bushings are somewhat on the softer side.
I understand that, but what is a reasonable expectation as to the time and cost to remove and reinstall the bushings.
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      10-29-2014, 03:04 PM   #27
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Sorry for the delay guys I wanted to find some of our old pictures for yall. The design of the factory control arm causes it to flex under heavy load (hard driving, tracking, etc) instead of at the bushing locations. This flexing of the arm causes the metal to fatigue from flexing (metal doesn't like flex back and forth) and eventually the arms fail under normal driving conditions.

After having our company cars arms tweak to the point that when they were installed on the car you could visually see the two arms were twisted in an unintended fashion, we removed them for replacement. Once removed it was noted they had become torqued during driving to the point they stayed in the bent position after being removed.




Dealing with trailing arm failure ourselves and noting a multitude of failures of customer arms, we tasked our R&D engineers with coming up with a better trailing arm.

Our arms are designed to eliminate twisting problem the factory arm has, being lighter than the factory arms is an added bonus. Our design takes the flexing under heavy load out of the trailing arms, and places it on the bushings were it belongs.

-James
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      10-29-2014, 10:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pirate View Post
I understand that, but what is a reasonable expectation as to the time and cost to remove and reinstall the bushings.
With the correct bushing tool, about 30 minutes per bushing.
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      10-29-2014, 11:00 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
After having our company cars arms tweak to the point that when they were installed on the car you could visually see the two arms were twisted in an unintended fashion, we removed them for replacement. Once removed it was noted they had become torqued during driving to the point they stayed in the bent position after being removed.
Hi James, Thanks for this information. A question if its ok:
In the case of your company cars, did you find the permanent bending of the arms occurred when using the soft stock rubber bushes? Or were you using an aftermarket bushing?
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      10-30-2014, 12:16 AM   #30
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Moreover, should we upgrade the control arm and a group m bushings from turner motorsports, or only bushings or only trail arms?
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      10-30-2014, 12:48 AM   #31
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Quote:
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Moreover, should we upgrade the control arm and a group m bushings from turner motorsports, or only bushings or only trail arms?
If you have not done the subframe bushings, rear toe arms and bushings in the upper, lower and guide links those should be your priority over the trailing link.

As many 135, 335i, 1M and M3's we work on and prepare for both sport street and weekend track duty we have yet to see one with a bent trailing link. Even cars with solid subframe bushings(Turner) and spherical bearings(Bimmerworld, Turner and TCKR) in the suspension pickup points.
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      10-30-2014, 02:50 AM   #32
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Holesaw the bushing center out, then sawzall through the casing until it pops. Once the tension is off you can push it out by hand. Takes 2 minutes per bushing. Works for the diff bushings too.
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      10-30-2014, 08:40 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_01 View Post
Hi James, Thanks for this information. A question if its ok:
In the case of your company cars, did you find the permanent bending of the arms occurred when using the soft stock rubber bushes? Or were you using an aftermarket bushing?
At the time the car was on the original factory bushings.

-James
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      10-31-2014, 01:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowbudgethero View Post
Interesting, I'd have to get my pry bar out to see how much flex there is on the factory ones when I swap to the m upper control arms. It doesn't replace the bushings though, which I would think would flex more anyway.
That's why you buy these :

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-12...r-e82-e9x.aspx
Have you installed those? I tried and couldn't press group n bushings into my rear toe arms last week. Cost me an alignment. BMW must have a special press.
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      11-01-2014, 09:47 PM   #35
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whats the weight difference compared to stock?
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      11-03-2014, 08:51 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miggs View Post
whats the weight difference compared to stock?
384 grams versus 517 grams each, so our arm are about 25% lighter.

-James
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      11-04-2014, 02:38 PM   #37
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Installed my ECS Tuning rear trailing arms. They are definitely lighter and more rigid than the OEM trailing arms. My OEM trailing arms don't show any visible signs of distortion or fatigue. I decided not to install the Whiteline poly bushings at this time. I'll save them for later.
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      11-08-2014, 12:11 AM   #38
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got my set the other day will be installing them this coming Monday, be happy to see these go in & start of the massive suspension overhaul my 135i is going to get
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      11-13-2014, 08:06 PM   #39
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would this connect to other M bits without any issues?
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      11-14-2014, 12:14 PM   #40
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Nice, any more reviews/impressions?

M bits dont impact this part unless you have M3/1m Knucles, even then it should be fine
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      11-18-2014, 10:32 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miggs View Post
would this connect to other M bits without any issues?
It does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrey_gta View Post
M bits dont impact this part unless you have M3/1m Knucles, even then it should be fine
This part is compatible with the M3/1M as well, so if you've changed knuckles you can still utilize this component.

-James
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      09-06-2015, 09:55 PM   #42
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rear trailing arms

HM Motorsports has never seen a "bent" rear trailing arm on any car. My mechanic suggested spending the $ on more vital components. He just replaced all of my front and rear, Upper and Lower control arms with the M variety, and upgraded my Sub-frame bushings too. The final piece of the puzzle were Megan rear Toe-control arms. This helped to set the correct camber and toe because the M parts are wider and longer. Needed another Alignment of course.
The car now handles better than ever!
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      09-03-2020, 07:43 AM   #43
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I hate to bring back such an old thread, but has anyone else who added the ECS rear trailing arms also changed the bushings? If so, what bushings did you use? And how much did it cost to have the bushing replaced?

I still haven't replaced my bushings.
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      12-10-2020, 03:28 PM   #44
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Rear Bushing Kit - M Specification

Mfg Part # 33326763092KT1
ECS Part # ES#2703087

which includes the Lemforder M Trailing Arm Bushings

can't answer cost as it was years ago and part of an 100K mi overhaul of the entire suspension
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