135i Build - track toy with a license plate

[drunkenup]

Is there any fender rub at that offset? I'm about to go down to 5mm from 10mm spacers on the same offset 17x9

[berns]

Originally Posted by drunkenup

Is there any fender rub at that offset? I'm about to go down to 5mm from 10mm spacers on the same offset 17x9

My only significant rub up front is at full lock, turning left, inside the fender well.

[mike082802]

would love more info on the ducting and mounting for the oil coolers, i have one setrab 19 row to start with and dont know if ill keep the stock and add this or just replace the stock and see how the single 19row performs for now. if you want to pm me some more info on the oil cooler i would really appreciate it. also looking for some 18x9 et42 or et38 arc 8's as we speak.

[berns]

Originally Posted by mike082802

would love more info on the ducting and mounting for the oil coolers, i have one setrab 19 row to start with and dont know if ill keep the stock and add this or just replace the stock and see how the single 19row performs for now. if you want to pm me some more info on the oil cooler i would really appreciate it. also looking for some 18x9 et42 or et38 arc 8's as we speak.

i pretty much gave away the entire install in my previous post. if you're not mechanically inclined or confident enough to piece it together, I'd advise against it and hire a capable fab / race shop to do it for you. good luck!

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by mike082802

would love more info on the ducting and mounting for the oil coolers, i have one setrab 19 row to start with and dont know if ill keep the stock and add this or just replace the stock and see how the single 19row performs for now. if you want to pm me some more info on the oil cooler i would really appreciate it. also looking for some 18x9 et42 or et38 arc 8's as we speak.

I have a set of Arc-8 Anthracite 18x9 et42 (square) if you're interested. $900

[mike082802]

Originally Posted by berns

i pretty much gave away the entire install in my previous post. if you're not mechanically inclined or confident enough to piece it together, I'd advise against it and hire a capable fab / race shop to do it for you. good luck!

my buddy builds nasa and scca race cars and thats where im doing the install, what you did not say was how much hose you needed and if you ran in parallel or series.

[mike082802]

Originally Posted by spxxx

I have a set of Arc-8 Anthracite 18x9 et42 (square) if you're interested. $900

thanks, feel like splitting them up? i have 2 full sets of 1 series fitment arc 8s in black, one set being brand new. going to fish around try to find just a set. i have way too much crap laying around.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by mike082802

thanks, feel like splitting them up? i have 2 full sets of 1 series fitment arc 8s in black, one set being brand new. going to fish around try to find just a set. i have way too much crap laying around.

Keeping them together for now.

PM me

[berns]

Couple cool shots from Sunday's track day at Buttonwillow. There was a crowd of rich kids in the advanced group with us who kept going off and bringing dirt all over the track. I was puckering through Bus Stop into an almost blind cloud of dust. Good shot from my buddy Andrew (@buildjournal on IG)

[ajsmithvmi]

Originally Posted by mike082802

my buddy builds nasa and scca race cars and thats where im doing the install, what you did not say was how much hose you needed and if you ran in parallel or series.

If you look at the adapter plate on the oil filter housing, you'll see two lines. My guess is this is an in-series set up.

Parallel would require two pairs of lines; two out and two return.

[houtan]

Thanks for posting additional info on the oil cooler brackets, much appreciated.

Did you run any sort of rubber padding between the mount/oil cooler and car or is that not needed?

[berns]

Originally Posted by houtan

Thanks for posting additional info on the oil cooler brackets, much appreciated.

Did you run any sort of rubber padding between the mount/oil cooler and car or is that not needed?

The rubber padding is on the Setrab bracket set.

Originally Posted by mike082802

my buddy builds nasa and scca race cars and thats where im doing the install, what you did not say was how much hose you needed and if you ran in parallel or series.

Sounds like you'll be in good hands then. This setup runs in series, one into the other. Order yourself like 15 ft of hose so you have leftover if you screw it up.

[mike082802]

thanks

[Ginger_Extract]

Car is looking good, brother. We need to have a lap battle. I ran :59.3 on the old SUR4, we can get 2+ seconds off your times with all that front end grip you have.

[berns]

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

Car is looking good, brother. We need to have a lap battle. I ran :59.3 on the old SUR4, we can get 2+ seconds off your times with all that front end grip you have.

You'd be surprised at how little front grip the car still has, or you wouldn't, since we all have made changes and adjustments and are always kind of left with understeer. I miss my SUR4G's.

I did realize that while I upped the front spring rate to remove crazy front compression and roll, I left the rears the same. 8k/12k is not a big enough split. I have my 16k springs from my E90, where I ran 8k/16k and that car felt great, so I'm going to give it a shot.

I'm also sure I either installed the M3 rear sway incorrectly, because it doesn't spin freely in the bushings and has a ton of tension, basically tweaked. This is likely the cause of me not being able to get any power down in the tight stuff. I'm going to try to free up the bar and grease the bushings, or I might just toss in a smaller bar like the Eibach 15mm.

The changes never stop haha.
Fresh tires going on before I run Streets of Willow on the 3rd and I'll see how the car feels with some proper damper adjustments before switching out anything.

In other, non-important news, I removed the arm rest / storage bin and loved not hitting my arm on it during shifts. Also, that thing weighs a surprising amount. It's got to be 10-12lbs. I hated the ugly hole in the back of the console, so I ordered the BMW delete plate that came on the european models with no arm rest.

Wood trim is coming out next.

[Ginger_Extract]

Originally Posted by berns

You'd be surprised at how little front grip the car still has, or you wouldn't, since we all have made changes and adjustments and are always kind of left with understeer. I miss my SUR4G's.

I did realize that while I upped the front spring rate to remove crazy front compression and roll, I left the rears the same. 8k/12k is not a big enough split. I have my 16k springs from my E90, where I ran 8k/16k and that car felt great, so I'm going to give it a shot.

I'm also sure I either installed the M3 rear sway incorrectly, because it doesn't spin freely in the bushings and has a ton of tension, basically tweaked. This is likely the cause of me not being able to get any power down in the tight stuff. I'm going to try to free up the bar and grease the bushings, or I might just toss in a smaller bar like the Eibach 15mm.

Your comments on spring rate bias checks out. The car needs a rear spring that is, at least, twice as stiff as the front spring to have any sort of balance.

RE Sway Bar: You're experiencing sway bar binding. Most all OEM BMW bars are designed to bind. This will make the bar's affect be non-linear and result in snappier handling. Grind down the flat portion of the sway bar bushing until the bar can rotate smoothly in it's bushings.

[berns]

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

Your comments on spring rate bias checks out. The car needs a rear spring that is, at least, twice as stiff as the front spring to have any sort of balance.

RE Sway Bar: You're experiencing sway bar binding. Most all OEM BMW bars are designed to bind. This will make the bar's affect be non-linear and result in snappier handling. Grind down the flat portion of the sway bar bushing until the bar can rotate smoothly in it's bushings.

I am dreading dropping the rear subframe again and getting another alignment. Which is why I'm inclined to go with the Eibach bar which I feel will be more manageable with traction than the M3 22mm. I'll see how motivated I am next week.

[135]

Originally Posted by NinjaDog

What have you done different to everyone else suggesting you can't fit 265's up front?

I'm having a debate with my workshop about fitting 245's upfront so I am curious.

Originally Posted by berns

The one thing I did differently was not listen to every thread I found with someone repeating that the biggest you could fit on this car was an 18x8.5 +45 with a 245 tire. Even Apex told me that when I called and told them what I thought would work. They said no way.

Really not much to it. Run camber, make sure you have clearance, get your spring height correct, measure. I'm definitely at the limit now, and this isn't a setup I'd run on a daily, there is some rubbing at times, but nothing that bothers me or damages anything. For the record, my setup is KW dampers, 7" springs, no helpers, perch sits above the tire enough not to interfere. With 255s I fit with no spacer on an 18x9 +42, I ran a 3mm spacer just for piece of mind, but with the 265s I'm running a 5mm spacer for added breathing room, effective offset is now +37.

I've been running an AD08R 255/35 (259mm section width) on an 18x9 et38 for years and moved to a semi-slick 265/35 (264mm section width) a year ago. No issues. But you do need camber, (preferably) small diameter strut body, lower spring perch above the tyre (which means there's a limit to how much you can lower the car) and guard/fender roll/pull/tab. Read what everyone else has done but take it with a grain of salt - even me or berns - because every car is different. Measure once, measure twice and then measure half a dozen times again.
My rear setup was an AD08R 285/30 on an 18x10 et55 (effective), then moved to an AD08R 265/35 because the 285/30 had a minimum 3 month wait from Japan. Currently also running a semi-slick 265/35 on the rear on the track. The rear semi-slick section width is 19mm wider than the front same-size semi-slick due to a 1" wider rear wheel - it actuality should only be ~10mm difference.

berns, those SPL arms are a nice idea but they only push the bottom of the wheel/tyre out which doesn't really help clearance where it's needed. What's required is for the top of the strut to move even further inboard to provide additional clearance between the tyre and guard/fender lip and bumper tab.

[berns]

Originally Posted by 135

I've been running an AD08R 255/35 (259mm section width) on an 18x9 et38 for years and moved to a semi-slick 265/35 (264mm section width) a year ago. No issues. But you do need camber, (preferably) small diameter strut body, lower spring perch above the tyre (which means there's a limit to how much you can lower the car) and guard/fender roll/pull/tab. Read what everyone else has done but take it with a grain of salt - even me or berns - because every car is different. Measure once, measure twice and then measure half a dozen times again.
My rear setup was an AD08R 285/30 on an 18x10 et55 (effective), then moved to an AD08R 265/35 because the 285/30 had a minimum 3 month wait from Japan. Currently also running a semi-slick 265/35 on the rear on the track. The rear semi-slick section width is 19mm wider than the front same-size semi-slick due to a 1" wider rear wheel - it actuality should only be ~10mm difference.

berns, those SPL arms are a nice idea but they only push the bottom of the wheel/tyre out which doesn't really help clearance where it's needed. What's required is for the top of the strut to move even further inboard to provide additional clearance between the tyre and guard/fender lip and bumper tab.

Finding the additional -.7* from the bottom length had barely any effect on clearance. Certainly better than notching the towers.

[TJ135i]

Originally Posted by berns

I mean, watch the in-car vid for an example of why the M3 rack is fucking worth every penny. Steering is definitely heavier, but response is perfect to me. Not a fun swap to do yourself but not too bad. Need to make sure the rack is centered, that's the hard part.

What rack specifically did you use I want to do the swap and I found an 08 M3 rack is there anything that I need to look for?

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by TJ135i

What rack specifically did you use I want to do the swap and I found an 08 M3 rack is there anything that I need to look for?

Any E9x M3 rack should work. You'll need to use 135 inner tie rods, outters are the same.

[Newguy123]

Awesome thread, nice 1er OP.