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      05-10-2024, 12:36 PM   #1
jkho
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*** Best Tune for N52, MY09 125i?

Hey 1Addicts crew,

REF:
125i Stock:
Engine --> 160KW (214eHP) / 270Nm
Wheel --> 136rwKW (181wHP)

130i Stock:
Engine --> 195KW (261eHP) / 315Nm
Wheel --> 165rwKW (221wHP)


Not sure how active these forums are... but just wanted to pick every1's brains!

1) What's the best bang for buck Stage1 Tune for the N52 nowadays?
Ideally with some Dyno results to show!

I've searched some older posts on this forum and a couple of names came up:

2) My understanding is that Aussie E82 125i (are like the Euro spec ones and) all have the 3 Stage Manifold, does that mean we can get awesome gains (up to ~130i levels) with just a ECU Remap (N52 valvetronic)?


3) Can I just do an ECU Remap or do we need to also upgrade both exhaust headers and higher flowing cats?


4) Do you guys know any1 in Sydney who is able to help?


Thanking you in advance.
Appreciate all your input!
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Last edited by jkho; 06-17-2024 at 06:37 AM..
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      05-10-2024, 06:09 PM   #2
MBan
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Hi jkho,

I used Active Autowerks for mine but I hazily recall everyone started using something else not long after. Bimmer Works maybe? I have no idea if you can still get tunes from any of these places. I installed mine remotely with a laptop and there were no shops in WA at the time who could do it for me. Sydney may be a different story.

The Australian 125i is intentionally restricted, presumably so it didn't get too close to the 135i, so all you need is a tune to unlock it to 130i spec. I did headers and front pipe with high flow cats at the same time, but that was only worth about 6hp before the tune.

Good luck - I really enjoyed my 125i while I had it.
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      05-11-2024, 06:06 AM   #3
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is it auto or manual?
I have a 125i and did a bimmerlabs tune. Was free from the site.
Need a laptop that has inpa and connects to the car and the obd cable.
Flashes the engine ecu to 130i spec.
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      05-12-2024, 06:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer23rm View Post
is it auto or manual?
I have a 125i and did a bimmerlabs tune. Was free from the site.
Need a laptop that has inpa and connects to the car and the obd cable.
Flashes the engine ecu to 130i spec.
Mine is an auto, pretty much stock with a muffler delete.

ooh nice; did you ever do a dyno run before and after the tune?
If yea, what sorta numbers did you get with Bimmerlabs?

Did u load the 125i or 130i one?
Easy to do?

Sorry heaps of questions, I'm not familiar on the process... new to all this!
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Last edited by jkho; 05-12-2024 at 07:50 AM..
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      05-12-2024, 08:11 AM   #5
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so i also have an auto.

i loaded the 130i file. what i found was that there was a miss match between the gearbox and the engine, the revs would be out.

so you have to tune the gearbox to 130i spec too.

while you can tune the engine with a generic obd cable, you cannot use the same cable for the gearbox, you have to update the cable or use a bimmergeeks cable or icom cable.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1754063

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2037462

have a read through those thread regarding the gearbox update.
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      05-12-2024, 08:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBan View Post
Hi jkho,

I used Active Autowerks for mine but I hazily recall everyone started using something else not long after. Bimmer Works maybe? I have no idea if you can still get tunes from any of these places. I installed mine remotely with a laptop and there were no shops in WA at the time who could do it for me. Sydney may be a different story.

The Australian 125i is intentionally restricted, presumably so it didn't get too close to the 135i, so all you need is a tune to unlock it to 130i spec. I did headers and front pipe with high flow cats at the same time, but that was only worth about 6hp before the tune.

Good luck - I really enjoyed my 125i while I had it.

Hey Mban,
Cheers for ur reply!
What car u driving nowadays? Miss the 125i sometimes?


Saw that you hit 220wHP/164wkw (with ARMA Speed headers and high flow cats <200 cell Magnaflow>) on the Dyno@Advan, which is pretty much the 130i Coupe we were all chasing!

Sorry for all the newb questions, still learning... hoping to pick your brain -->

So best bang for buck gain would be to do just do an ECU flash?
If that's all I'm doing, I'm keen to find the best one to get

Am I correct in saying that all these listed tunes would alter the valvetronic maps and make use of our 3 stage manifold?

Saw that you were deciding between AA, EvolveR amongst others:
  • was there a particular reason you ended up going with AA (if you recall, way back in 2015!) ?
  • did you ever consider the German ones that were quoting 270PS/266HP/198kw? (assuming that's at the engine); so that's roughly 226wHP/168wkw?

Appreciate the input mate!
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      05-14-2024, 02:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer23rm View Post
so i also have an auto.

i loaded the 130i file. what i found was that there was a miss match between the gearbox and the engine, the revs would be out.

so you have to tune the gearbox to 130i spec too.

while you can tune the engine with a generic obd cable, you cannot use the same cable for the gearbox, you have to update the cable or use a bimmergeeks cable or icom cable.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1754063

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2037462

have a read through those thread regarding the gearbox update.
ooh a free tune! (I've been MIA since 2010 haha)
Did ya get a Dyno before and after the tune?

I'll pm ya later to pick your brain if that's cool?
Thx bro
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      05-15-2024, 04:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkho View Post
ooh a free tune! (I've been MIA since 2010 haha)
Did ya get a Dyno before and after the tune?

I'll pm ya later to pick your brain if that's cool?
Thx bro
No prob. did a dyno after and it was 169kw, 300odd torque.
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      05-15-2024, 08:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer23rm View Post
No prob. did a dyno after and it was 169kw, 300odd torque.
169W, nice! Bang on 130i numbers
Is that just from the Tune...stock config or with additional upgrades like intake, exhaust headers, high flow cats, etc?
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Last edited by jkho; 05-15-2024 at 08:51 AM..
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      05-27-2024, 02:18 AM   #10
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golfer23rm - I've been trying to flash the 130i tune onto my 125i, however I'm facing some issues with INPA, the pre-flash "communications verification" step (battery dot = on, ignition dot = off) despite following the Bimmerlabs/various E90 flash instructions and using the Bimmergeeks cable. It can still read codes / code history so that's confusing.
Did you flash your car recently? If so, hoping you may have a specific guide available? Bimmergeeks no longer has downloads available, and what I've been using is refusing to work even after hours of troubleshooting.

jkho - I am also a Sydney based E88 125i owner looking to get a tune (ideally 130i tune). Have you had any luck? Have you been in contact with any of the tune vendors (e.g. Celtic Tune via Zadtec)?

Last edited by kilo3407; 05-27-2024 at 02:29 AM..
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      06-14-2024, 11:22 AM   #11
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BimmerLabs Experience - tuning my MY09 E82 125i

URL = https://bimmerlabs.com/help

Video =


My Car:
Aussie Auto BMW MY09 E82 125i (Euro spec, comes with 3 stage manifold and DISA valves)


Where do I get my RSA Delete and Tune Files from?
Jump onto Bimmerlabs, create a Project and input your car details, including the last few digits of your VIN.
For my Project/VIN:
  • RSA Delete = MSV80_RSADelete_0049QK0MI20S.0pa
  • Tune = MSV80_125i_to_130i_EU_PowClass00.0da


Some reading to get you prepped:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1035058
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736657


Install, setup and checks BEFORE you Flash:
  • Install BMWTools (BimmerGeeks ideally) and follow the instructions...
    • Register the 3x *.OCX Files: mscomctl.ocx, msflxgrd.ocx and comdlg32.ocx
    • Copy across those 3x folders
    • Grab the E89 Datens and load them into WinKFP
  • For flashing, you need to use a quality KDCAN cable like the BimmerGeeks one... personally I used one from Amazon-AU, sold by "AntiBreak".
    NB> If you want to also update the Transmission (EGS), then you def need the BimmerGeeks one... aka one with the updated Firmware.
  • Plug in the KDCAN Cable, I just installed using the default drivers recommended by Win10:
    Go to Device Manager --> Properties --> Port Settings --> Advanced --> Set Port = COM1 and Latency = 1
  • Ensure you can connect with the car by reading Errors using INPA (hopefully you have the 2 Black dots) and maybe attempt some basic coding via NCSExpert
  • *** IMPORTANT - as per the Bimmerlabs help file:
    • Update that Bootsector bit in the COAPI.ini file
    • Make sure everything is ticked or unticked as per their WinKFP Screenshot
  • Ensure you read and make a note of your existing DME details using INPA (Identification and UIF screens). So you know which files you need to use in the event you need to revert back to Stock, mine were as follows:
    • Part Number = 7594483 (HW# *.0pa)
    • Assembly = 7594554 (ZB#)
    • Calibration dataset = 7594553 (*.0da)
    Believe I could also use these ones --> S7599583, S7594489 or S7594487
    You can check by editing your particular "DME".dat in Notepad and look for the corresponding rows for your HW... EG> mine would be MSV80.DAT ... this should be located wherever u saved your Datens --> SP-Daten\E89\data\MSV80


Are you READY to flash??
  • Drive the car for 15/20mins b4 attempting the RSA Delete, I didn't use a battery charger
  • Put your car into Position 2 (engine is ON, but not running)
  • Set your lights in the "OFF" position; ensure you turn everything OFF before you attempt the RSA Delete: including fans, interior lights, radio and disable any DRLs (can be done via the stalk/iDrive)
  • Plug in your laptop to your car via the ODB port
  • INPA check... 2x Black Dots and close INPA
  • Final WinkFP config/setup check, close WinkFP
  • Run the RSA batch file FIRST
    PS> this only needs to be done successfully ONCE.
    I'm no expert, but from I've read - I think this disables the Powerclass check to stop the car from going into Limp Mode (due to a Powerclass mismatch)... you'll be able to then flash to another tune if need be


Timing:
  • RSA Delete took 21mins (Fuel pump was going crazy upon completion)
  • 125 to 130 Tune was super fast to run and only took 1-2mins


After the batch files run successfully:
  • Cycle through OFF, position1, position2 a handful of times
  • Start your car, turn off your car.
  • Check and clear DME errors using INPA (2FA3 error remains, but that's fine... it just denotes that the DME has been modified)
  • I cleared all adaptations using INPA and got a check engine light (along with a few other errors like 2F7B)
  • Cleared errors again and followed this ignition cycle method to get rid of the check engine light -->




Result and my thoughts:
My butt-dyno says the car feels faster. Especially the torque, less struggle at the low RPM range and gets up to high RPM MUCH quicker...
This is exactly what I've always wanted; a 130i Coupe
Achieved by unlocking that N52 goodness and getting up to (or at least closing the gap to) the E87 130i Hatch!

I'll put her on the Dyno when I'm at Advan next, hoping to get a ~20-25 gain; should jump from 120rwkw to about 145rwkw thereabouts!
PS> Before any haters go off on a tangent about Dyno numbers... worth noting that they all are setup/configured differently, I'm just using prev Advan Dyno results I've observed on this forum as the baseline.


Hope some1 stumbles across this thread/post and finds it useful!
Good luck; do at your own risk and YMMV




PS> For an AUTO, I was going to also do the GM1912 Transmission update, but my Amazon KDCAN cable doesn't read the EGS Module. Not affliated, but do yourself a favour a buy the BimmerGeeks Pro Cable!
For the 1series E82/E88 (both 125i and 128i), the one you want is marked as E8xN52B30O1 ECE+RdW (where the 01 I believe denotes the optimal transmission when 3SIM and both Upper/Lower DISA Valves are installed). You need to confirm you're HW# first using INPA. (HW = Identification screen and ZB = User Info Field screen... note these down!)
If you have HW# = 7614313, the file you want is 7614241; should be located where your datens are: SP-Daten\E89\data\GM1912\A7614242.0da
If you have HW# = 7593220, the file you want is 7593060; should be located where your datens are: SP-Daten\E89\data\GM1912\A7593061.0da
Ref: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2028726
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Last edited by jkho; 08-03-2024 at 07:38 AM.. Reason: Added some reading material, GM1912 and extra checks/tips
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      07-09-2024, 08:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kilo3407
JKHO - I am also a Sydney based E88 125i owner looking to get a tune (ideally 130i tune). Have you had any luck? Have you been in contact with any of the tune vendors (e.g. Celtic Tune via Zadtec)?
Good to meet you over the weekend kilo3407
Glad we were able to get your car flashed successfully, it's a different beast now huh?
Your car pulls pretty hard, the diff update prolly helped too!
PS> Imagine you didn't have the additional E88 weight


Any1 in Sydney needing help to unlock some of that N52 goodness, hit me up!
.
.
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Last edited by jkho; 07-09-2024 at 09:00 AM..
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      08-02-2024, 08:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkho View Post
Good to meet you over the weekend kilo3407
Glad we were able to get your car flashed successfully, it's a different beast now huh?
Your car pulls pretty hard, the diff update prolly helped too!
PS> Imagine you didn't have the additional E88 weight


Any1 in Sydney needing help to unlock some of that N52 goodness, hit me up!
.
.
The 130i flash definitely makes a difference. Not only is there more torque, but it feels "smoother" and more consistent throughout the rev range.

I've just filled the car with 98RON (replacing the prior 94RON E10) and it seems to have improved low RPM performance as well.

FYI there is someone in the USA that dyno'd at 160kW+ with an auto, in excess of your 140kW or so. I'm thinking it's due to the differences in dynos? (https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2029477)
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      08-03-2024, 08:27 AM   #14
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Bimmerlabs - Advan Dyno Results!

My car was pretty much a stock auto 125i, with various aesthetic upgrades.

But here's some which might affect the numbers:
  • Muffler delete
  • Mishimoto silicone intake boot
  • Bimmerlabs 125i to 130i Tune


Point of Reference (all figures are at the wheel)
I didn't do a run b4 the Tune... but from what I've observed on similar DynoDynamics (Advan/BMRAutowerkes):
  • Stock 125i E82;
[*] Auto = 114.1kw (seems a bit low, let's use 118kw... so 158.24hp; aka ~186.16hp on DynoJet)
[*] Manual = 128kw (171.65hp; aka ~201.94hp on DynoJet)
  • Stock 130i E87 got 144kw (193.11hp; aka ~227.19hp on DynoJet)
Ref1 = https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=923769
Ref2 = https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=66



My Results?
See attached.
DynoDynamics run after the Bimmerlabs Tune = 139.5kw (187.07hp; aka ~220.08hp on DynoJet)
That's an increase of 21.5kw (28.83hp); so roughly a gain of ~18.22%


Next Steps?
Dunno if it's worth doing Headers and high flow cats... but I'll give it another run on the Dyno once I:
▪︎ tune the EGS
*** DONE ▪︎ install AFe drop-in air filter
▪︎ install a proper axle-back free flowing exhaust...

Hoping to somehow nudge another 5kw or so to put it bang on 130i numbers!
Attached Images
  
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Last edited by jkho; 08-09-2024 at 10:02 AM.. Reason: Edited, added Stock references and also converted KW to HP and ~DynoJet figures for our Friends overseas
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      08-03-2024, 08:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kilo3407 View Post
The 130i flash definitely makes a difference. Not only is there more torque, but it feels "smoother" and more consistent throughout the rev range.

I've just filled the car with 98RON (replacing the prior 94RON E10) and it seems to have improved low RPM performance as well.
Glad you're enjoying it... you should put her on the Dyno too; interested to see what numbers you pull!
98Ron is the only way to go bro, your 125i deserves the best right??!



Quote:
Originally Posted by kilo3407 View Post
FYI there is someone in the USA that dyno'd at 160kW+ with an auto, in excess of your 140kW or so. I'm thinking it's due to the differences in dynos? (https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2029477)
Thx for the link!

From what I've come across, DynoJet generally reports about ~15% higher numbers compared to DynoDynamics: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891688
If you compare the numbers from this thread; 404 / 353.5 = 14.2857%
So if you get my DynoDynamics result above (139.5) and convert that to DynoJet, that's sitting on about 159.4286 (~comparable to the 160 which your thread is reporting)
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      08-04-2024, 03:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkho View Post
Might give it another run once I tune the EGS and install my AFe drop in air filter and a proper axle-back free flowing exhaust... hoping to nudge another 5kw or so 🤷🏻*♂️
jkho - I'm pretty sure there's not much power, if any at all, to be made with axle-back exhaust. It will net you 2kW at most if you are lucky!

The bottleneck, and where power can be gained, is at the headers. Headers will also change the exhaust sound (generally louder and "motorsport" sounding).

RHD N52 Brintech headers netted 13kW gain without a tune:
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      08-04-2024, 03:24 AM   #17
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I was updating my post, just as you added yours.

Was considering Headers and high flow cats... but dunno if it's worth the $$$...
Are you thinking of doing these mods Kilo??
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Last edited by jkho; 08-04-2024 at 03:29 AM..
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      08-04-2024, 04:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkho View Post
I was updating my post, just as you added yours.

Was considering Headers and high flow cats... but dunno if it's worth the $$$...
Are you thinking of doing these mods Kilo??
I'm thinking the same, it's difficult to justify the cost given that it'd be ~25% of the car's entire value to get it all done.

As is, the car's *just* slow enough to be able to enjoy WOT for a couple seconds without getting into immediate trouble with our low Australian speed limits. If I get bored of the car, I may move to N54/N55/LS in ~3 years or so

EDIT: Discovered Chinese aliexpress headers. $500-600 shipped, and I'm now interested.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003623706153.html

Last edited by kilo3407; 08-04-2024 at 04:42 AM..
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      08-04-2024, 06:35 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by kilo3407 View Post
I'm thinking the same, it's difficult to justify the cost given that it'd be ~25% of the car's entire value to get it all done.

As is, the car's *just* slow enough to be able to enjoy WOT for a couple seconds without getting into immediate trouble with our low Australian speed limits. If I get bored of the car, I may move to N54/N55/LS in ~3 years or so

EDIT: Discovered Chinese aliexpress headers. $500-600 shipped, and I'm now interested.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003623706153.html
Ooh; we could purchase 2x together and save on shopping costs?

Need verification first...
I think I saw on another forum, maybe E90/E92 and they had good reviews/results from Exhaust Header purchases from China?
EDIT: review here, which also mentions "HZ Racing"
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ht=N52+Headers

Pleb question... would this be a self installation (looking at your skills Kilo!), exhaust guy or mechanic?
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Last edited by jkho; 08-04-2024 at 06:57 AM.. Reason: Added review of N52 Headers by HZ Racing, from E90 forums
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      08-04-2024, 07:36 AM   #20
kilo3407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkho View Post
Ooh; we could purchase 2x together and save on shopping costs?

Need verification first...
I think I saw on another forum, maybe E90/E92 and they had good reviews/results from Exhaust Header purchases from China?
EDIT: review here, which also mentions "HZ Racing"
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...ht=N52+Headers

Pleb question... would this be a self installation (looking at your skills Kilo!), exhaust guy or mechanic?
Keeping this semi-related to this thread being Bimmerlabs 130i tune as applicable to Australian 125i's per Item 1 below. Let's open another thread if needed - I haven't checked if there is a N52 RHD header thread.

Self install should be possible. Looking at doing this towards the end of the year if we can figure out the below and it still makes sense.

Things to figure out below, might need to speak to an exhaust shop:

1. Potential mechanic question - how will the car respond to the headers with it's current Bimmerlabs 130i tune? Coding required, retune required, etc?
2. Quality of headers (should be covered in your link, though I haven't read through)
3. Any adaptation/modification of headers required to fit? E.g. confirmed RHD fitment, no drilling, cutting needed etc
3.a. Cost for exhaust shop to fit headers, if fiddling required
4. Confirmation of our existing exhaust setup. Should be two cats in headers, no second cat (unlike USA market).
5. Cost for exhaust shop to supply and fit a high flow cat in, post headers
5.a. Determine if 1 or 2 cats needed if fitted post headers
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      08-07-2024, 01:16 PM   #21
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Updated my Dyno Results post with kw to hp conversion (including approx DynoJet numbers) for any Friends overseas that stumble onto this thread!

kilo3407
How's ur research going?
For continuation, post the link to your Headers and High Flow Cats Thread once it's ready
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      08-11-2024, 10:04 AM   #22
kilo3407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkho View Post
Updated my Dyno Results post with kw to hp conversion (including approx DynoJet numbers) for any Friends overseas that stumble onto this thread!

kilo3407
How's ur research going?
For continuation, post the link to your Headers and High Flow Cats Thread once it's ready
I've taken the discussion to an existing RHD header thread (https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...1066291&page=4)
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