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12-27-2013, 11:17 AM | #45 | |
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12-27-2013, 11:40 AM | #46 |
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Go back and read my last post, I added an extra line...many experts believe that BMW made the rod bearings too narrow, in an effort to keep friction losses at a minimum. They also believe that the "fix" was nothing more than slightly more clearance, along with the RPM limiter and pressure relief adjustment. But my point still stands...far and away, the driver is the one who decides if his rod bearings will live or die...mine lived a long life and will continue with the new owner...even if some people consider them "faulty".
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12-27-2013, 11:55 AM | #47 | |
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12-27-2013, 01:45 PM | #48 | |
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Plenty of people stuck with the original 10w-30 spec, plenty use other oils. I've never seen in my years of E46 ownership a single engine failure whcih could be traced to oil. For 110k miles, almost 100 track days, I've run maybe 25% TWS, but mostly M1 15w50 or Lubromoly 10w60. My cousin has run 10w-40 in his for the last 8 years. Very much mis-understaning about the "requirement" of 10w-60. Again, not recommending you stray from the recommendation, as it's a very good oil (and if your car was still under warranty, of course). But there's nothing "special" about it, as it pertains to the S54. In large, that motor is a freaking iron-block freight train (VANOS issues aside), and doesn't require any "special" oil. Just a good oil, especially for high RPM running. To the OPs post, I'm mostly the other way. I've found after years and years of tracking, you stress-crack OEM rotors just as quickly as you do $30 generics (maybe 6-7 track days on stock-sized rotors and track pads on an E46 M3 or 135) before the stress cracks are big enough to catch your finger nail, and should be tossed. SCCA Vette guys buy generic blanks BY THE PALLET for this very reason. Can't say I've seen too big of a different in street longevity either. And certainly not enough to warranty the price difference. Even if you have to replace your $30 rotors 3 times as often it's still much cheaper. And in reality, they tend to wear just about the same. So, while there have been a lot of opinions for very expensive chunks of iron, here's one from the other camp. Spend your money elsewhere. Centric blanks from Rock-Auto or the like (premiums if you don't feel like painting your own hat, regular if you will take the time to do so). |
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12-27-2013, 02:31 PM | #50 | |
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You are DEAD on about the rotors, Premature...run cheap rotors till they stress crack or warp, then toss them....cast iron is cast iron. And yes, the S54 is freaking freight train....just with very narrow rod bearings.
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'13 128i 6sp, '19 Cherokee Ltd 3.2, '17 Ducati SuperSport S Gone But Not Forgotten: 74 Z28, 77 Datsun 280Z (1st 5sp in US), 92 Nissan 300ZTT, 94 MB SL600 V12, 01 M Roadster, 66 Yamaha TwinJet 100, 70 Suzuki X6 Hustler Race: GP/FP Spitfire SCCA, Merlyn FF SCCA, Mazda RX7 IMSA GTU, Yamaha FZR 400 AMA.
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12-27-2013, 03:22 PM | #51 |
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12-27-2013, 04:21 PM | #52 |
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I think you can get cryogenic treated Centric blanks for pretty reasonable prices. Should last pretty long for a DD and be a good value.
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12-27-2013, 06:04 PM | #53 | ||
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I stocked up on 10w-60 because I got it for $5/liter. No way I'm paying full price on TWS. Plus I was still under CPO until this past August. |
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