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      04-20-2019, 11:58 AM   #1
Brett Krehling
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failed dme?!

Okay so a few days ago i was driving my 2011 135i dct when the red battery light flipped on. i kept driving until i had to get off my exit. as i was coming to a stop a Christmas tree of lights appeared and the car started sputtering. the car then died and would not start again. tried jumping it and did not start. so i just replaced my alternator, a new battery,(all oem and coded) and a fuel pump relay. car still does not start i scanned the codes and this is what came up. no wires seem to be loose or disconnected. ugh hoping someone can help before i bring it to the dealership and have to have the dme replaced.
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      04-20-2019, 03:59 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Krehling View Post
Okay so a few days ago i was driving my 2011 135i dct when the red battery light flipped on. i kept driving until i had to get off my exit. as i was coming to a stop a Christmas tree of lights appeared and the car started sputtering. the car then died and would not start again. tried jumping it and did not start. so i just replaced my alternator, a new battery,(all oem and coded) and a fuel pump relay. car still does not start i scanned the codes and this is what came up. no wires seem to be loose or disconnected. ugh hoping someone can help before i bring it to the dealership and have to have the dme replaced.
Do you hear any noises as you try to start the car? Or is the car fully immobilized? Have you checked the big relay by all the fuses?
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      04-20-2019, 05:44 PM   #3
Brett Krehling
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Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Krehling View Post
Okay so a few days ago i was driving my 2011 135i dct when the red battery light flipped on. i kept driving until i had to get off my exit. as i was coming to a stop a Christmas tree of lights appeared and the car started sputtering. the car then died and would not start again. tried jumping it and did not start. so i just replaced my alternator, a new battery,(all oem and coded) and a fuel pump relay. car still does not start i scanned the codes and this is what came up. no wires seem to be loose or disconnected. ugh hoping someone can help before i bring it to the dealership and have to have the dme replaced.
Do you hear any noises as you try to start the car? Or is the car fully immobilized? Have you checked the big relay by all the fuses?
no noises sounds super healthy actually. i checked the big black relay in the fuse box under the hood and in the glovebox. any other fuses or relays i could check? im lost at this point
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      04-21-2019, 08:04 AM   #4
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Check your ground strap beside the drivers side engine mount.
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      04-21-2019, 09:35 AM   #5
Brett Krehling
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Check your ground strap beside the drivers side engine mount.
wouldn't a bad ground strap cause my engine not to even crank over? why would it still be cranking if the engine strap was bad?
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      04-22-2019, 09:25 AM   #6
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wouldn't a bad ground strap cause my engine not to even crank over? why would it still be cranking if the engine strap was bad?
I couldn't begin to tell you if this is your problem, but regarding your specific question, I've seen it fairly regularly with audio amplifiers. Corrosion or a bad connection will cause errors, but if you hit it with enough juice, the current will arc across a gap or make its way through a corroded connection. Low power systems may be affected (DME), while high power systems (starters) aren't.
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      04-22-2019, 11:49 AM   #7
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Check your ground strap beside the drivers side engine mount.
Ground strap and power cable from the jumping lug to the starter (more usually fails at the jumping lug).
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      04-22-2019, 02:14 PM   #8
Brett Krehling
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Krehling View Post
wouldn't a bad ground strap cause my engine not to even crank over? why would it still be cranking if the engine strap was bad?
I couldn't begin to tell you if this is your problem, but regarding your specific question, I've seen it fairly regularly with audio amplifiers. Corrosion or a bad connection will cause errors, but if you hit it with enough juice, the current will arc across a gap or make its way through a corroded connection. Low power systems may be affected (DME), while high power systems (starters) aren't.
thanks for the replies ill be bring her to dealership sometime next week. fingers crossed it isnt too expensive. also i tried to ground my engine from another spot to the chassis, that did not help
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      05-09-2019, 04:21 PM   #9
Brett Krehling
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Krehling View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderguts View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Krehling View Post
wouldn't a bad ground strap cause my engine not to even crank over? why would it still be cranking if the engine strap was bad?
I couldn't begin to tell you if this is your problem, but regarding your specific question, I've seen it fairly regularly with audio amplifiers. Corrosion or a bad connection will cause errors, but if you hit it with enough juice, the current will arc across a gap or make its way through a corroded connection. Low power systems may be affected (DME), while high power systems (starters) aren't.
thanks for the replies ill be bring her to dealership sometime next week. fingers crossed it isnt too expensive. also i tried to ground my engine from another spot to the chassis, that did not help
update ended up being the distribution box on my battery. one of the red cables on that box supplies power to the dme. i replaced the box ontop of the battery and what do ya know sje fired right up!! ended up being a 55$ part. so all in all alternator battery and distribution box about 600$ in the whole but all new parts.
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      05-09-2019, 04:43 PM   #10
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Distribution box interesting.

I guess I need to take a closer look at that. I always assumed power went from battery, made a pit stop at the fuse box under glove box, up into engine bay white box by passenger side, lug for jumping, over to starter and DME.
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