Widebody Track Car Build

[wdb]

If you do any welding directly on the vehicle, be mindful of the risk of setting stuff on fire. It happens more than people think, and you're behind a welding mask when it happens, so it's best to plan ahead and find ways to shield things etc. to avoid it in the first place.

Still digging this thread, even though I've been moved off of my 'gotta get a 128i' kick for the time being. I more or less accidentally won an auction for a 996 Porsche when the bids stopped about $3K below where I thought they would!

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract

The dampers are nice units, however, if I was doing my build over again (I've since demodded my track 1er and made it a fun daily), knowing what I know now, with my old setup (255/265 track tire, max effort stock body fitment), my car was way too soft with 400 lb/in fronts and a 700 lb/in rear spring. Tire wear sucked and the car handled lazily.

Even with my stock body fitment, I would start at something like 500 lb/in fronts and a minimum 800 lb/in rear spring, and probably settle on something like a 900-1000# rear spring, given the awful motion ratio that the E82 is working with. If those shocks can keep up with spring rates in that area, great!

I suspect with that big wing, you'll end up migrating towards a very stiff rear spring in the end.

For perspective: my new track chassis has the same basic suspension setup, similar tire sizing, less weight, with a slightly better rear end MR and I've landed at 600/1000, no aero, and it's fantastic. A lot of factors (setup, tracks, driver preference) go into the numbers I'm tossing around, so consider it a rough starting point, and information I wish I had all those years ago.

Be mindful reading the forums here that most people parrot information blindly, and the actual fast drivers have long since learned from the collective thoughts and posts from years ago. I listened to this the "common consensus" on here many ears ago and my car sucked to drive until I started thinking more critically about setup and actually testing changes on track, and backing them up with lap times...

I noticed most people and vendors on this forum recommend soft spring rates, why? I have no clue, maybe the shocks can't handle the higher rate who knows. I'd just call Bimmerworld tbh that's all they do 😂

[Dieselboy]

Right now I'm focusing on the secondary oil cooler and plumbing. I tapped the frame rail and used rubber stand-offs to mount the Setrab cooler. I will also be adding a bracket to the bottom. It's in the exact spot the stock cooler would be. I'll be designing and 3D printing an intake shroud that will feed off the stock intake duct. I'll also cut out the stock exhaust flow section of the wheel well.


Next is figuring out the plumbing. I think I've got a good idea of the routing. The external thermostat and the oil outflow from the block being on the drivers side makes it a bit more complicated.



Rough idea of where the thermostat will be.

[Dieselboy]

Plumbing routed with the external T-stat and the second oil cooler. (Photos of rough fit, still need to tighten the fittings and make a perch for the T-stat to mount to).

[Dieselboy]

Started relocating the coolant tank, but no matter how I do it, it just looks hacked together, because it is. The 335D tank won't clear my charge pipe so I decided to just get the Turner custom tank, which looks very high quality. Ordered a catch can, I will make some AN lines for it since I have extra hose and fittings. Hoping to have the engine fired up by the end of September.

Got a few other items I need. Noticed the PS pulley is chipped so I'll replace that. I have a new belt I'll throw on too.



Finished all of the AN lines for the secondary oil cooler. Baby steps..

[Dieselboy]

I went through the plumbing and cleaned out any residual oil. I beleive it stemmed from a failing PCV valve.

Cleaned the intercooler, upper and lower charge pipes with IPA.




Polished the down pipes.


I replaced the PCV valve with the RB option. Catch can is on order and I will run AN lines for that.


Started work for the hot side intake box. I am going to try and integrate the stock "ram air" snout into this box.

[wdb]

Originally Posted by Dieselboy

I went through the plumbing and cleaned out any residual oil. I beleive it stemmed from a failing PCV valve.

Cleaned the intercooler, upper and lower charge pipes with IPA.

OMG!!! Please tell me you didn't spend good beer.

[Dieselboy]

Originally Posted by wdb

OMG!!! Please tell me you didn't spend good beer.

Yes, converting to a Corona port injection setup.

[Dieselboy]

Since I am waiting on parts, I decided to make an airbox for the hot side.

I started with a cardboard mockup and used wooden dowels to get the contour of under the hood and the fender.




I traced the mockup on 26 gauge sheet metal and cut with tin snips. Fitment was spot on.




I folded the corners and used cardboard to mockup the bottom portion.


I traced the cardboard to the sheetmetal and added 3/4" perimeter for the overlap folds.




I then joined the top and bottom with rivets.


My plan was to use the stock ram-air snout and intake scoop to feed air into the box.


I painted the inside black and covered the exterior in heat resistant tape. I also used weather stripping to create a tight seal against the hood.


Some CAD work to create the couplers to use the stock air intake parts to feed my box.




The 3D printed parts.


The final assembly. I will paint the 3D parts black and seal the joints with gasket adhesive.






Nice snug seal against the hood.

[Dieselboy]

Final airbox.

[Dieselboy]

Solid engine and trans mounts. I was leaning towards the poly engine mounts, but it seems every brand eventually melts on the turbo side. The VTT inserts also seemed like a decent option.

[AndyW]

This is awesome work. Would you mind sharing what 3D printer you use?

[Dieselboy]

Originally Posted by AndyW

This is awesome work. Would you mind sharing what 3D printer you use?

Thanks. These parts were printed on a Zortrax M200 Plus. I used the Z-ULTRAT material, which is a higher quality ABS derivative.


Still waiting for my CSF radiator and the aluminum coolant expansion tank relocation kit before I can start the engine. Delivery dates keep getting pushed out.

[wdb]

Originally Posted by Dieselboy

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Still waiting for my CSF radiator and the aluminum coolant expansion tank relocation kit before I can start the engine. Delivery dates keep getting pushed out.

Sorry to hear it. I’m considering a project but might wait until the supply chain gets healthier.

[08SlowE82]

Outstanding work 🤟🏻

[houtan]

Enjoy reading the progress you are making.

Quick question about your oil cooler mounting solution. you mention "I tapped the frame rail and used rubber stand-offs to mount the Setrab cooler."

Can you please provide more info on what you used and how you installed the mount?

[Dieselboy]

Originally Posted by houtan

Enjoy reading the progress you are making.

Quick question about your oil cooler mounting solution. you mention "I tapped the frame rail and used rubber stand-offs to mount the Setrab cooler."

Can you please provide more info on what you used and how you installed the mount?

I 3D printed a wedge so that I could get the exact same angled mounting position as the stock cooler. I tapped/threaded the frame rail to mount the top portion and made an aluminum bracket for the bottom portion. I used rubber stand-offs to absorb vibration.







CSF radiator finally came, only took 6 weeks. Just waiting on my Turner expansion tank (hopefully ships this week) and I can start putting everything back together and get it fired up.

[Bodie217]

Originally Posted by Dieselboy

CSF radiator finally came, only took 6 weeks. Just waiting on my Turner expansion tank (hopefully ships this week) and I can start putting everything back together and get it fired up.

Is the CSF radiator a direct fit? Are you using the factory fans and shroud? Thanks!

[Dieselboy]

Originally Posted by Bodie217

Is the CSF radiator a direct fit? Are you using the factory fans and shroud? Thanks!

Yes it's a direct fit, but it's tight. Since I relocated the inlets there's a bit more room on my setup.

[Dieselboy]

Decided to do an AT to MT swap. One of my biggest regrets with the car is that its an AT.

[imported_mega]

Love your airbox! I 3d printed the same setup to route the air to the relocated inlets but I did not follow through on the airbox, you have inspired me.

[Dieselboy]

Originally Posted by imported_mega

Love your airbox! I 3d printed the same setup to route the air to the relocated inlets but I did not follow through on the airbox, you have inspired me.

Thanks!

So I was going to wait until after I got the engine sorted to do the AT to MT swap, but decided to just do it all at once since most of the car is already apart. But a turbo swap, inlets, oil cooler, cooling system, AT to MT swap, etc will be A LOT to troubleshoot if I screw anything up..

Got everything ordered for the swap except the shifter linkage (ebay doesn't have the parts I need so looking at other options) and clutch/flywheel since I'm still deciding on what I want.

Pulled the AT cooler. It's a shame I already ordered and installed the AT radiator, but I just bypassed the AT cooler and ran directly to the coolant pipe. I'll remove the lines to the AT when I remove the AT.



Pedal assembly arrived, waiting on accelerator, clutch lines and some misc parts.