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      11-07-2018, 08:52 AM   #1
christofis135i
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6mt No Reverse!?

Yesterday morning I went to Tim Horton's to grab coffee and came home. Went to leave to go to a friends house and the car would not go into reverse. There were no prior pop outs, grinds or any sign of it going bad. I've read countless threads on this situation and everyone comes to the conclusion that you need a new trans.. well fuck. I can currently shift smooth as butter through 1st-6th.

Apparently no one can find a resolution for this. Am I SOL and need a new trans? Or can I fix it with a little couple hundred dollar part? I don't mind buying a new trans but I prefer not to.

Also I know our trans the "GS6-45" is replaceable with the n54s "GS6-53" and apparently like a Supra trans and just about bullet proof. But they're also unicorns to find.

Any help of this issue would be greatly appreciated.
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      11-07-2018, 10:23 AM   #2
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BMW dealer quoted me $4550 for a new trans and $5800 for trans/install/fluid 😅
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      11-10-2018, 11:26 PM   #3
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No idea where you located, but the is one on Craigslist in Abbotsford. https://abbotsford.craigslist.ca/pts...726807870.html
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      11-12-2018, 05:12 AM   #4
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I would contact ZF and see where the nearest remanufacturing location is to you. They might have a remanufactured unit avail.

https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/en/aft...manufacturing/

A quick search leads me to believe the swap is doable but you need a few additional parts. If you do the swap route you can probably find a used transmission at a pick-a-part wrecker
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      11-12-2018, 07:03 AM   #5
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Pull off your shifter boot... and look at the plastic ball joint/bearing. You might have to remove it for a proper inspection. I would bet you that it's cracked. Also check the shift linkage for slop/wear. That could be your problem too. Gently move the shifter as you look at the linkage rods. You could have a failed or failing part.

Name:  shift lever bushing  removal-shifter.jpg
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f20 linkage just to give you an idea on the setup.
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The shift lever bearing/ball... it rotates and locks into the shift carrier. Sometimes it can work its way loose and not allow you to get into reverse.


One other note... when you say you can't shift into reverse... do you mean the shift lever doesn't go into the slot? Try holding the gear lever in the reverse slot... then with your other hand switch off the engine. IF the shifter notches into reverse... then its your clutch disc hanging up on the input shaft splines. You need a new clutch in this case. Can you put the car in reverse... and then start up the car and MOVE the car? That would suggest it's your clutch as well.

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      11-12-2018, 02:02 PM   #6
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Bet the trans is fine, check your shifter. Happens all the time on old beater BMWs.
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      11-12-2018, 05:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Pull off your shifter boot... and look at the plastic ball joint/bearing. You might have to remove it for a proper inspection. I would bet you that it's cracked. Also check the shift linkage for slop/wear. That could be your problem too. Gently move the shifter as you look at the linkage rods. You could have a failed or failing part.

Attachment 1935480

f20 linkage just to give you an idea on the setup.
Attachment 1935481

Attachment 1935482

The shift lever bearing/ball... it rotates and locks into the shift carrier. Sometimes it can work its way loose and not allow you to get into reverse.


One other note... when you say you can't shift into reverse... do you mean the shift lever doesn't go into the slot? Try holding the gear lever in the reverse slot... then with your other hand switch off the engine. IF the shifter notches into reverse... then its your clutch disc hanging up on the input shaft splines. You need a new clutch in this case. Can you put the car in reverse... and then start up the car and MOVE the car? That would suggest it's your clutch as well.

Dackel
This is helpful. In about an hour my step dad who used to be a mechanic for BMW is going to take a look at it.

Not going into reverse I mean it will slide over for reverse, it will go forward a tiny bit but will not lock in. My reverse lights do come on tho.

Had a very reputable local shop inspect it and they said all linkages are fine. They took it on a test drive and a tech said it's definitely not the clutch. But I will try what you suggested about trying to start it while engaging it. Not sure if they lifted the boot or not. I can do that tonight.

Even with the car off and clutch in or out, it will not go into reverse.
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      11-12-2018, 07:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Pull off your shifter boot... and look at the plastic ball joint/bearing. You might have to remove it for a proper inspection. I would bet you that it's cracked. Also check the shift linkage for slop/wear. That could be your problem too. Gently move the shifter as you look at the linkage rods. You could have a failed or failing part.

Attachment 1935480

f20 linkage just to give you an idea on the setup.
Attachment 1935481

Attachment 1935482

The shift lever bearing/ball... it rotates and locks into the shift carrier. Sometimes it can work its way loose and not allow you to get into reverse.


One other note... when you say you can't shift into reverse... do you mean the shift lever doesn't go into the slot? Try holding the gear lever in the reverse slot... then with your other hand switch off the engine. IF the shifter notches into reverse... then its your clutch disc hanging up on the input shaft splines. You need a new clutch in this case. Can you put the car in reverse... and then start up the car and MOVE the car? That would suggest it's your clutch as well.

Dackel
This is what I'm stuck with rn.
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      11-13-2018, 08:38 AM   #9
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Keep digging. That rubber boot pulls out of the hole in the floor pan pretty easy.
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      11-13-2018, 11:14 AM   #10
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Was able to get the boot off and look at the ball joint. Couldn't see anything out of the ordinary with it. I'm going to disconnect the linkage and see if I can manual throw it into reverse, at that point I'll know if it's my trans or not.
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      11-13-2018, 12:32 PM   #11
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Did it slowly get more difficult or suddenly stop? I don't know if that helps answer what's up at all just curious, very intrigued by this issue and what you find out.

If it could be isolated to a single part it seems there's a (very) small chance that just that part could be sourced. Or even machined or something for less than the cost of a replacement transmission assembly.
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      11-13-2018, 04:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christofis135i View Post
Was able to get the boot off and look at the ball joint. Couldn't see anything out of the ordinary with it. I'm going to disconnect the linkage and see if I can manual throw it into reverse, at that point I'll know if it's my trans or not.
Ok. Let us know what happens. What did your father think/have to say when he looked at it ?


You know on the older e36/e46/e39's those cars had a problem with the shifter detents - going bad.

Here is a video of what the detents look like inside the trans. I have never heard of them going bad on an 1er.






christofis135i maybe you can make a video of what your stick shift is doing when you try to engage reverse. That might also be of help to us guys. I did find this video. In reading the comments, it also sounds like his shift lever ball(bearing linkage) was bad.




I also found this video. I wonder IF you can reach into the bell housing and feel IF your clutch pivot arm is still attached?




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      11-15-2018, 10:50 AM   #13
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Will follow up with the issue tomorrow. Been super busy with work and haven't had the time to jack the car up and disconnect the linkage.
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      11-28-2018, 08:21 AM   #14
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Okay, when I disconnected the shift linkage I was still not able to manually throw it into reverse.

Had the dealer look at it yesterday and they came to the conclusion of a bad reverse gear synchronizer. The also suggested replacing the pilot bearing and throw out bearing. If my reverse is no good I doubt that a piece of the clutch and flywheel is going bad. Probably trying to squeeze a little more money out of me.

They finally quoted me $6400 for new trans/pilot and throwout bearing. Clutch has 62k and he recommends I replace that as well. Not sure what the stock clutch is capable mileage wise.

The guy I was working with spoke to a higher up at BMW and he said they are willing to cover 40% of the repair. Now I am at $3646 out the door with a brand new NOT refurbished transmission from BMW.

As much as I would pay for a transmission, labor and fluid from anyone else would roughly be around the same price but with a USED transmission.

Apparently I have to decide by Friday(that's when the deal expires I guess?) to make my decision. Sounds like the best bang for my buck. What do you guys think?
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      11-28-2018, 12:08 PM   #15
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I'd say do it beats having to sell a broken car and having to buy a new one anyway. Sorry this happened to you man. Goodluck!
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      11-28-2018, 03:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christofis135i View Post
....

The guy I was working with spoke to a higher up at BMW and he said they are willing to cover 40% of the repair. Now I am at $3646 out the door with a brand new NOT refurbished transmission from BMW.

As much as I would pay for a transmission, labor and fluid from anyone else would roughly be around the same price but with a USED transmission.

Apparently I have to decide by Friday(that's when the deal expires I guess?) to make my decision. Sounds like the best bang for my buck. What do you guys think?
I would bite that bullet and do it. Brand new trans with a warranty for two years!! I would also replace the clutch "while you are in there". A sticking clutch is probably what worn out your reverse gear and broke a few teeth of the gear.

Get it done!
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      11-29-2018, 10:45 AM   #17
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I'd say do it beats having to sell a broken car and having to buy a new one anyway. Sorry this happened to you man. Goodluck!
Thanks man I appreciate it! My service advisor was able to knock it down to $3000 out the door and still hold the 2 year warranty.

Said fuck it and had him ordered it. Should be here tomorrow and apparently car will be done next week!!

Only issue now is while the transmission is out should I replace the clutch? Is it worth it? The Car only has 63k miles on it, I have a jb4, Catless downpipe and charge pipe. (Intake, intercooler and axle back in near future) when does the stock clutch let go? I've read anywhere from 80-130k. Not sure how long our stock clutches last. will I have problems with slipping in the future? ECS has a genuine bmw clutch for 441, a LUK clutch for $299 (this clutch will hold more power). Worth it or no?
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      11-29-2018, 01:05 PM   #18
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Agree, crappy thing to happen but that's a pretty good way to get it fixed. Dealer gets a sincere "thank you" for doing what they did. Nice!

I think I'd do the clutch, my experiences over the years are anywhere from ~ 60k - 110k miles (though the 60k was a bit early and liekly largely my fault). You are hopefully setting yourself up to have a good car for years to come. You might however need OEM if they are doing it. They might give you the stink eye after everything else to be asked about using non-OEM parts in any portion of the work.
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      11-29-2018, 03:46 PM   #19
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Agree, crappy thing to happen but that's a pretty good way to get it fixed. Dealer gets a sincere "thank you" for doing what they did. Nice!

I think I'd do the clutch, my experiences over the years are anywhere from ~ 60k - 110k miles (though the 60k was a bit early and liekly largely my fault). You are hopefully setting yourself up to have a good car for years to come. You might however need OEM if they are doing it. They might give you the stink eye after everything else to be asked about using non-OEM parts in any portion of the work.
Thanks for the input! I probably will do the clutch just to save myself the labor charge in the future. They did say I can buy my own clutch and drop it off to them, regardless of brand they will install it.

Now I need to figure out what clutch to get and pay for overnight shipping 😅 the LUK clutch is what I'm looking at but the price makes me wonder how durable it is🧐https://www.ecstuning.com/b-luk-part...207603248~luk/
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      12-01-2018, 01:46 AM   #20
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Sorry to hear about you needing a trans. Some guys on forums w this generation BMWs (e90/e92 335, e60 535) have had some reverse issues (ie not going into gear at all). Mostly the turbo cars. Glad your dealer is so willing to work with you though, sounds like they are taking care of you more than most! Definitely get a new clutch while the trans is out. Might as well
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      12-03-2018, 05:58 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Sorry to hear about you needing a trans. Some guys on forums w this generation BMWs (e90/e92 335, e60 535) have had some reverse issues (ie not going into gear at all). Mostly the turbo cars. Glad your dealer is so willing to work with you though, sounds like they are taking care of you more than most! Definitely get a new clutch while the trans is out. Might as well
All good I'm surprised at the dealership was willing to go down so much on the price.

Unfortunately I never get around to ordering a clutch. I will probably end up regretting it but it's always a plus to be mechanically inclined. Can't hurt to also have friends who are full time mechanics and a step dad who's used to work on bmws for a living. If I need to replace the clutch in the future I think I'll be ok.
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      12-04-2018, 09:23 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christofis135i View Post
Yesterday morning I went to Tim Horton's to grab coffee and came home. Went to leave to go to a friends house and the car would not go into reverse. There were no prior pop outs, grinds or any sign of it going bad. I've read countless threads on this situation and everyone comes to the conclusion that you need a new trans.. well fuck. I can currently shift smooth as butter through 1st-6th.

Apparently no one can find a resolution for this. Am I SOL and need a new trans? Or can I fix it with a little couple hundred dollar part? I don't mind buying a new trans but I prefer not to.

Also I know our trans the "GS6-45" is replaceable with the n54s "GS6-53" and apparently like a Supra trans and just about bullet proof. But they're also unicorns to find.

Any help of this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Same thing just happened to me today. I have warranty with VW but I assume i'm better off putting the car back to stock before I take it in. Dealer say anything about this being a common occurrence?
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