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04-09-2009, 09:10 AM | #45 |
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This looks to be the same as the Home Depot Jack for onle $80...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91039 |
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04-28-2009, 10:54 AM | #46 |
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Where can I buy this jack or a jack like it.
I'm assuming that this jack can reach both center jacking points w/o using ramps.
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04-28-2009, 02:04 PM | #47 | |
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http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...+floor+jack.do |
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05-01-2009, 02:06 PM | #48 |
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So, does ANYONE have a picture of their 1 series up on jack STANDS? I'm trying to nail down the points that I can use for jack stands so that I can feel comfortable working under the car.
I know exactly how to jack the car up, and I'm using the reverse logic pad adapter thing. Are people using the exposed frame inside the wheel well like in this post on E90post? http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47468
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05-01-2009, 08:36 PM | #49 | |
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Procedure as followed: Drive up front wheels onto bricks (actually, I jacked up each side high enough to place a brick underneath the tire and then lowered each side). I then used the front middle jack point to jack up the entire front of the car. I then placed jack stands on each side in the designated areas. For adapters I simply bought some 1 inch tubular steel stock and cut them into ~2.5 inch long blocks. For the rear, very similar. Jacked up the car by the rear differential (be sure to NOT be on the rear diff cover) and then just place the jackstands again using the adapters (as described above). |
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05-01-2009, 09:37 PM | #50 | |
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05-02-2009, 11:36 PM | #51 |
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05-03-2009, 07:46 AM | #52 | |
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Quote:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=17 Guess I'm pretty much going to have to buy new ones and an adapter if I want to use them on my 1er, eh? |
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05-03-2009, 04:32 PM | #53 | |
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here are exact pictures of my jackstands: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=jack+stand http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ord=jack+stand if i were you i'd just buy a set of the 2 1/4 ton jack stands if you are going to buy new ones |
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05-17-2009, 10:22 AM | #54 | |
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10-12-2009, 01:31 PM | #57 | |
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As far as the rear jacking point, I use the cross member that is directly behind the rear diff. The front jack point is mounted directly to the same type of cross member and I have had no issues using it in the rear. I have this jack from sears.. Dont get the cheaper $200 version as it has gotten terrible reviews across the board. Also, this jack works fine on the rear jack point without needing to pull up on anything. On the front, I have a 2X4 that I put under each tire that gives me the clearance I need. This is with the car probably being dropped an inch or so from stock.
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10-23-2009, 04:06 PM | #58 |
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seriously you dont need to buy all the stuff that everyone is saying. I used the jack from my 2000 mustang and it was fine. The thing you need to do is to put a paint scrapper on top of the jack so that the weight would be evenly distributed on the point at which bmw wants the jack to be. Pointless to spend all that money getting a block or what not to jack up a car.
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10-27-2009, 07:00 PM | #59 |
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Just rotated my tires with all four wheels off the ground at once. I made inserts for the jack points out of hockey pucks, you can also buy the inserts. The rear differential housing (not the diff cover!!) is the rear jack point and there's plenty of room for the jack to clear. Lift and put inserts and jack stands under both rear jack points. With the rear lifted the jack now would go under the front central jack point from the front center of the car. Brought the front up just enough to clear both wheels and did the swap. I wouldn't crawl under the car with the front up on the jack only but it was more than steady enough to rotate the tires.
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10-27-2009, 08:32 PM | #60 |
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You can see pictures of the little plywood blocks I made on my thread about my first oil change in my e88 (128i cabrio). They fit into the jacking points and allow me to use my normal jack stands from harbor freight. I also like the front and back jacking points. But I also have raised to put the rear stand in by jacking on the front side point. It is close enough to the center the the back comes up too. The bearing points of the plywood on the stand is small enough that the plywood get deformed so I made some two piece blocks with the bottom longer to fill the flat top of the stand. My jack is also from harbor freight and works OK. It is getting a bit old and the release is sudden, not gradual, but it works. Floor model that weighs nearly 100 lbs with a pipe handle. Plenty strong but I will probably have to replace it sometime since the reputation is not so good.
Jim
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11-11-2009, 07:08 AM | #62 |
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I have ramps that I have very rarely used for multiple reasons. The biggest reason is they like to slide on the concrete garage floor as you drive up on them. It is also hard working by yourself to get firmly on the ramp without overshooting and driving off. So I want to gradually creep up and then the ramp slips. My ramps are plastic and if I brace them so they don't slip, I sometimes chip the plastic on the back, which doesn't make me comfortable with their integrity. So I jack the car up instead. Even though everybody is talking like it's a big deal, it is only that way until you do it successfully a time or two.
The other thing I didn't mention, I think others have, is if your car is too low for a jack you have to go under, cut up some 2X framing lumber (2x6 or wider) and drive onto that first. You may have to hit this with a little speed for them not to slip but if you drive over it's no big deal. You just have to back up and try again. Jim
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11-11-2009, 06:50 PM | #63 |
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Sears used to carry a jack that lifted the car with the jack stands and then you wheeled the jack away, I looked but I think it's been discontinued, it was a brilliant idea.
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12-20-2009, 01:05 PM | #64 |
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12-20-2009, 04:43 PM | #65 |
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i have some rhino ramps...good for what i need them for. definitely helps to have someone watching you drive up on them. Would like to invest in jack w/ some stands soon too cause there are some limitations with just ramps, just depends on what you plan on doing.
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09-19-2010, 10:11 AM | #66 |
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According to the diagram shown ealier, if you wanted to lift the back side of the car it says to use the differential (3) as a jacking point, however I noticed that there is a beam (black in color) that runs side ways. Tried jacking the whole back side using the beam and it came up without any issues. Has anyone tried this? Am I at risk of damaging something in doing so? The reason I don't want to use the differential is that my jack won't reach all the way past the cover. Thanks!
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