BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      02-26-2011, 11:42 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester View Post
This might solve it.
The dremel might actually end up being an option if all else fails. Then a call to the insurance company after someone "vandalizes" the car thinking you had something expensive in the trunk.
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      02-26-2011, 12:27 PM   #68
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The dremel might actually end up being an option if all else fails. Then a call to the insurance company after someone "vandalizes" the car thinking you had something expensive in the trunk.
good excuse to get a carbon fiber trunk..
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      02-26-2011, 12:53 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2the3 View Post
they got rid of the trunk key with 03/09 production. The ashtray cover at the same time also.
I have an April '09 production model, no trunk cylinder, but I do have an ashtray cover.
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      02-26-2011, 04:15 PM   #70
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that's what you get when too many DAMN software and electronics get involved in a car... what is wrong with a simply mechanical truck release button?
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BMW have tapped into this by mirroring typical BMW dynamics and steering communication within the new UKL cars.
You mean massive body roll, a steering system that is not connected to the front wheels, and the engine note played through the speaker system?!?!?!?!
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      02-26-2011, 10:25 PM   #71
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Ok Atomic, I have one more idea for you... courtesy of my local BMW dealer. Pump 12V into the cigarette lighter via a charger cord wired to a battery. (I did not think to ask which is pos and neg. Anybody know?) This should supposedly provide power to the trunk release mechanism and allow you to open the trunk in spite of the open battery terminals.

Fingers crossed.
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      02-27-2011, 03:47 PM   #72
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The center post is the positive for the lighter.
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      02-27-2011, 05:07 PM   #73
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This would not do anything that the charging lugs under the hood wouldn't do. Also, the cigarette lighter is not 'on' unless the key is in.
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      02-27-2011, 09:12 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester View Post
This would not do anything that the charging lugs under the hood wouldn't do. Also, the cigarette lighter is not 'on' unless the key is in.
one of the 2 is a constant. or at least a timing delay

besides, there are some devices that bypass this anyhow for providing extra charge.

a dealership might have a device like this.
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      09-06-2011, 10:32 AM   #75
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Guess what I did today....


So I disconnected the battery (only one terminal) to install a lightweight battery and accidentally closed the trunk. My '11 doesn't have a keyhole as you all know so I went out and purchased a charger/maintainer from Sears today. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

After about ten minutes of the charger being hooked up to both terminals under the hood there was no evidence of power. The charger even stated it wasn't "charging the battery" which of course makes sense. I'm only trying to get enough power to pop that trunk so now I'm considering getting a jump from my wife's car. Is this a good idea?
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      09-06-2011, 09:09 PM   #76
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This is a heck of a coincidence.

Nearly one year after original making this post, I've finally solved my issue and another fellow 1-series owner falls prey to this same engineering failure.

My suggestion to you is not to waste your time trying to get power through the front terminals - I tried everything under the sun without avail. I finally towed the car to the dealer and they were able to get the trunk popped by accessing an electrical relay under the dash. I'm not sure exactly where or how they did it, but it was the idea that finally worked. If you are handy with the electrical aspects of cars, you might be able to figure this out - otherwise, I would have dealer look at it.

I guess the moral of the story is to always leave your rear seat folded down whenever you mess with the battery.
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      09-06-2011, 09:56 PM   #77
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They must have fed power to the main fuse bus. Question to everyone though. what happens if the trunk lock relay fails?
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      09-06-2011, 10:34 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic837 View Post
This is a heck of a coincidence.

Nearly one year after original making this post, I've finally solved my issue and another fellow 1-series owner falls prey to this same engineering failure.

My suggestion to you is not to waste your time trying to get power through the front terminals - I tried everything under the sun without avail. I finally towed the car to the dealer and they were able to get the trunk popped by accessing an electrical relay under the dash. I'm not sure exactly where or how they did it, but it was the idea that finally worked. If you are handy with the electrical aspects of cars, you might be able to figure this out - otherwise, I would have dealer look at it.

I guess the moral of the story is to always leave your rear seat folded down whenever you mess with the battery.
Turns out all I had to do was jump the car. I only had one terminal of the OEM battery disconnected so that might be the reason why it worked for me and not for you?
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      09-10-2011, 07:55 PM   #79
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My battery was completely disconnected and removed, and I didn't ensure that that battery terminals were secured in such a way that they wouldn't touch/ground. This could have been the specific reason for my difficulties. Good to hear that you were able to utilize the quick fix though!
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      04-11-2012, 01:36 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2the3
they got rid of the trunk key with 03/09 production. The ashtray cover at the same time also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMason View Post
I have an April '09 production model, no trunk cylinder, but I do have an ashtray cover.
FWIW, I have a 2/09 build with no trunk lock cylinder (despite the 03/09 date listed in the realoem diagram posted above).

I also have the ashtray cover.
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      04-11-2012, 01:39 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoral View Post
FWIW, I have a 2/09 build with no trunk lock cylinder (despite the 03/09 date listed in the realoem diagram posted above).

I also have the ashtray cover.
I have the same setup as you, and I have a bezel that says "year one of the one"

it just is basically the left overs of the 2008 models that just happened to be built in 2009, so the main benefit is we have one more year of warranty over other 2008s
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      04-11-2012, 03:16 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1 View Post
I have the same setup as you, and I have a bezel that says "year one of the one"

it just is basically the left overs of the 2008 models that just happened to be built in 2009, so the main benefit is we have one more year of warranty over other 2008s
The "Year of the One" was the first 12 months production which went from 4/08 through 3/09 so some '09 models were included.

But it's still a lousy idea to remove the battery if there is any chance the trunk lid will be inadvertantly closed.

Tom
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      04-11-2012, 07:59 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoral View Post
FWIW, I have a 2/09 build with no trunk lock cylinder (despite the 03/09 date listed in the realoem diagram posted above).

I also have the ashtray cover.

I love it when 7 month old threads return from the dead like zombies.
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      04-11-2012, 07:59 PM   #84
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I love it when 7 month old threads return from the dead like zombies.
keeps things interesting I think.
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      04-11-2012, 08:05 PM   #85
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At least some people are using the search function.
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      09-21-2013, 05:11 PM   #86
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Interesting discussion. Was thinking of pulling my battery for maintenance charging, but was worried about trunk lockout if I close the car up.

So the first thing that people need to understand is that a battery charger will NEVER enable you to power these systems, because the first thing they check is that there is a voltage source present. There has to be a battery, even if it is low voltage, in the circuit, in order for it to start pumping voltage/current. Its a "smart" device.

What you need is a jumping car, a battery or a power supply, with risk from highest to lowest. Option #2 and #3 can be fused and have smart electonics to protect in case of a short. #2 will only ever be 12.7V, and #3 could go high if malfunctioning, but usually also has current and voltage controls to protect.
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      09-24-2013, 06:15 PM   #87
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2004 bmw x3 cargo lights

Hey guys,

Can anyone help me fix or tell me what could be wrong with my 04 x3 cargo lights? Both the lights at the side of the cargo and tailgate is not turning on. I have checked the fuse and replaced it, yet still no lights. Though the fuse I place was an aftermarket but with same ampere requirement. Does that make a difference? I checked the bulbs too, all are working. I hope someone can help me out on this. Thanks!
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      02-26-2014, 02:21 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strongbark View Post
Turns out all I had to do was jump the car. I only had one terminal of the OEM battery disconnected so that might be the reason why it worked for me and not for you?
Which terminal did you have disconnected? I'm trying to open the trunk with the negative disconnected can't figure out a way in.
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