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[Anvil]

I purchased 4 non run flat snows the first winter and will ditch the run flats when they wear out. I wouldn't even consider going with all weather tires in New England Winters.

[Tom K.]

I switched to DWS tires about two years ago on my ZSP 128i.

Cost: $600 for 4 tires on 17" wheels (with a BMCCA discount). OEM RFTs would have been $1,400.
Handling: Grip is at least as good as the OEM Goodyear RFTs, although the turn in feel was initially a tad mushy. This has been greatly ameliorated by adding about 3 psi and seems to also improve as the tires age.
Projected Mileage: around 45 to 50,000 - twice that of the OEM RFTS.
Ride: Greatly improved. Still firm, but very comfortable over most road irregularities.

Haven't used them in snow, but I suspect they would be fine in the NYC area.

While I bought mine from an excellent local tire shop, you can't go wrong with Tire rack.

Also, if you mount RFTs and non RFTs on the same car, be aware that the different tread design and sidewall construction is likely to result in really unpredictable handling on wet roads or in an emergency situation. Back in the 1970's when radial tires were first introduced in the US, some folks decided they could mix them with bias ply ruber and caused many accidents as a result.

Tom

[eaglemike]

I replaced the RFT with Michelin PSS, up one size front and back as others have noted. Ride quality is a better and road noise is also down. Grip is better as well.

[TJ bmw135i]

Increase the size/height of the sidwalls. instead of 245/35/18, try a 255/40 or 45/18.

[135Pats]

Depends on where you live, but if it really gets snowy/icy and you plan on DD'ing the 1er, you should probably invest in outright winter tires. All weather tires are the worst of both worlds, IMO.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by bmw1racer

Same here... I only driven on RFTs for a couple of months (new car) and I don't think the ride's any worse than my old E36 with 205-60 15s.

You dont have the 18" RFTs though. The RFTs that came on my ActiveE arent bad at all actually.

But the 18" Bridgestones and Dunlops that they put on the 135s are horrid.

Originally Posted by J0E

I guess I am an oddball that I don't feel like the RFT are all that bad...

That said, don't forget, with a set of non-RFT you will need to buy a spare and throw it in the trunk at all times, otherwise if you get a flat, you are SOL.

Do you have the sport package?

Ive been stranded on the side of the road twice because of RFTs, and never because of the standard tires ive been running on the car for 3 1/2 years.

The RFTs have a tendancy to bubble, once they do you have to throw them out. Also an RFT only helps if the nail is in the middle of the tread. They deflate like a normal tire with a sidewall puncture/sidewall blowout.

Originally Posted by FIRST1

So what's the cost do you guys think for a whole set? Shit is tough on a college budget...

I spent $1250 on a brand new set of PS2s a few years ago and they were fantastic tires.

But I couldnt justify the cost on a college budget. Were not so different. Then I cracked one of my OEM wheels in the Bronx - new New Rochelle.

So I said eff this and spent $1800 on a set of lightweight 17"s and decent rubber.

I think I made the right call in the long run as my tires only cost $140 instead of $300 per tire. But its all up to you

[doublevanosrc]

Originally Posted by Diver

Some owners have complained their car was "floaty" after switching to non rft tires.

Several posts in the tire and wheel section indicate going up one tire size on the stock wheels is not optimal.

The usual result of playing around with tires and wheels is a complete set of new wheels and tires, plus extensive suspension mods. Remember, the suspension on BMW's is designed around the stiff sidewalls of RFT rubber.

This is true, very true. I switched to Micheln PSS for a week and while the tires had awesome grip, the car just didn't seem right or stable enough. The sharp steering was gone and i had to turn the wheel a little further than before. I just switched back to OEM run-flats, honestly I never had a problem with them aside from the price and modest gripe. The roads in my area are near perfect some comfort was never an issue.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by FIRST1

I appreciate all of your info. So I could use the Continental DWS tires year round? And they work in the winter too? Wow, never thought I'd be able to drive my 1er in the snow.

For the road and weather conditions we get in the Chicago area, the DWS have been fine in winter.
Yes, you have to slow down and judge braking distances as you would with any tire in the winter, including winter/snow tires.

Snow tires or winter performance tires don't give license to drive as you would on clear, dry, and warm conditions. What they do allow is better grip in the snow as they have tread compounds that remain very pliable even at 0F degrees.
They also have added siping to dig into the snow.
The negative is that snow tires aren't very good on dry winter roads, or on days when the temps get above freezing or above 40F as they get very mushy.

If your winter conditions are such that you have only a few major snow events, and the snow gets cleared within a day or so, then high quality AS tires will work just fine, and better over the winter season than snow tires.
Why? Because AS tires still work at very cold below freezing temps due to their compounds, but they have much better winter performance when the roads are dry and cold, or wet and cold. In my area those are the conditions for about 90% of the winter.
I don't want to give up the performance I get with AS tires for 90% of the winter, just to have better traction on the 10% of the days where snow tires would be more effective.
There are even many days when the temps get above 40F in the winter and the roads are dry. Snow tires don't work so well in those conditions.

The other thing I don't like about snow tires is deciding when to change them. If you change from summer to winter tires too late in the fall you could be stuck with no grip hockey pucks firm summer tires and the temps have fallen below 40F with light snow and wet roads. Summer tires are going to really suck in those conditions.
In spring, if you change too early back to summer tires, then you may find the same conditions where in the spring the temps plummet to near freezing with cold rain or light snow.

AS tires get picked on for being the biggest compromise among tires.
But, all tire types are a compromise if you live in a four seasons area.
Summer tires in cold and wet conditions are a serious compromise.
Snow tires on dry and not so cold temps are also a compromise.
I've said it many times before, AS tires are not the best at any one type of road/temp condition, but they are the BEST for any type of road/temp condition.

You should choose your tire type based on the road conditions and weather in your area.
If you live in an area where snow stays on the ground during winter, and/or you have snowy and hilly terrain, then snow tires or winter performance tires will be your best friend so that you can still drive a RWD in the winter.

In the Chicago area our terrain is VERY flat. We get a lot of snow at times, but it's cleared away fairly quickly. With typical snow events, 1-4", the roads get cleared of snow within a day. Salt gets thrown and then we have cold and wet roads. The AS tires I use work great in those conditions. IN heavier snow events, over 6", the snow still gets cleared on major roads within a day or two, but side roads may still have some snow on them. Yet, AS tires will still get you through those roads as well as long as you don't expect PERFORMANCE when the weather really doesn't allow for that. I slow down and all is well.

As you see on this thread, there are some of us who use AS tires year round, and we're doing fine.
Get the info and make your own decision.

[BrokenVert]

I think what RPM 90 is saying is where do you normally drive in the Bronx? Where on LI do you live?

If you go to school in the Riverdale area and live on the north shore than winters might be better because of the hills.

If you live near New Rochelle and the south shore, than A/S should be ok

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by Tom K.

I switched to DWS tires about two years ago on my ZSP 128i.

Cost: $600 for 4 tires on 17" wheels (with a BMCCA discount). OEM RFTs would have been $1,400.
Handling: Grip is at least as good as the OEM Goodyear RFTs, although the turn in feel was initially a tad mushy. This has been greatly ameliorated by adding about 3 psi and seems to also improve as the tires age.
Projected Mileage: around 45 to 50,000 - twice that of the OEM RFTS.
Ride: Greatly improved. Still firm, but very comfortable over most road irregularities.

Haven't used them in snow, but I suspect they would be fine in the NYC area.

Tom

I found the same with my DWS. To give that better ride the sidewalls are a bit softer than competing UHP AS tires.
I too run higher PSI, 38frt and 41rr.
This does help with better turn in, as well as given better/less wear.

When TireRack first put them on I could feel a bit of softness on initial turn in, but got used to it very quickly, and the higher psi helped. Haven't noticed it since after the first week with the tires.
I haven't had any highway speed "float" or "wobble". But then, if I do sustained high speed driving, it's only between80-90mph with occasional runs to 100-105.

[FIRST1]

2 things, sorry guys:

What are "AS" tires?

What does "turn-in" refer to? Probably something very obvious smh...

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by FIRST1

2 things, sorry guys:

What are "AS" tires?

What does "turn-in" refer to? Probably something very obvious smh...

AS=all season tires

Turn In=just that, the feeling/feedback upon entering a corner. The stiffer sidwalls of RFTs offer crisp turn in, but the overall grip is nothing special.

[FIRST1]

Awesome thread, learned a lot. Thanks people. I'm gona go with All Season tires, probably Continental DWS. I love how much cheaper they are, compared to the RFTs . I will buy a set of 4 and switch them all at once before this winter comes along.

Can someone who has experienced it, explain to me the "mushy feeling" during turning? Is it bad?

And by going for a higher diameter and size tire, how inaccurate does the odometer become? Is it fixable? Thanks guys

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by FIRST1

Awesome thread, learned a lot. Thanks people. I'm gona go with All Season tires, probably Continental DWS. I love how much cheaper they are, compared to the RFTs . I will buy a set of 4 and switch them all at once before this winter comes along.

Can someone who has experienced it, explain to me the "mushy feeling" during turning? Is it bad?

And by going for a higher diameter and size tire, how inaccurate does the odometer become? Is it fixable? Thanks guys

If you're going with the DWS, then stick with stock size. That's what I did and performance has been great.
If you want wider, there is a plus 1 sizing. Go to TireRack, or better give them a call and talk with a sales rep. They can fill you in on the details about sizing.

The "soft" turn in is just a feeling at the steering wheel when you initiate a turn. You can feel a slight "delay" in the tire changing direction, and you can almost feel the tread and sidewall move. It's not major though, just something that's there is you know what it is and you're looking for it.
If you run 2-3psi more air pressure that helps to resolve some of the sidewall flex. In the winter when it's snowing you can run the pressure a couple or more psi less to allow the tread to flatten a bit an give a bit more bite on the snow covered roads. When the snow is cleared and roads are cold and dry or wet and dry, put the psi back to where it should be.

BTW, I wouldn't call it "mushy" as that seems a bit extreme. It's just a bit more sidewall flex along with the tread pattern that gives that feeling.
Over all it's not big deal, nothing major. Other UHP (ultra high performance) AS tires have better turn in and feel, but those tires also don't match the DWS snow performance. The DWS are also great in the wet. To me those 2 things were MAJOR selling points.

[FIRST1]

Originally Posted by RPM90

If you're going with the DWS, then stick with stock size. That's what I did and performance has been great.
If you want wider, there is a plus 1 sizing. Go to TireRack, or better give them a call and talk with a sales rep. They can fill you in on the details about sizing.

The "soft" turn in is just a feeling at the steering wheel when you initiate a turn. You can feel a slight "delay" in the tire changing direction, and you can almost feel the tread and sidewall move. It's not major though, just something that's there is you know what it is and you're looking for it.
If you run 2-3psi more air pressure that helps to resolve some of the sidewall flex. In the winter when it's snowing you can run the pressure a couple or more psi less to allow the tread to flatten a bit an give a bit more bite on the snow covered roads. When the snow is cleared and roads are cold and dry or wet and dry, put the psi back to where it should be.

BTW, I wouldn't call it "mushy" as that seems a bit extreme. It's just a bit more sidewall flex along with the tread pattern that gives that feeling.
Over all it's not big deal, nothing major. Other UHP (ultra high performance) AS tires have better turn in and feel, but those tires also don't match the DWS snow performance. The DWS are also great in the wet. To me those 2 things were MAJOR selling points.

Awesome. Will get the stock size DWS tires and put them all on at once within the next few months. To be clear, this should help with the cracking rims problem, right?