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      12-24-2013, 01:57 PM   #1
mbintx
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Suggestions for best replacement front rotors?

BMW replaced my OEM pads right before warranty expired, but the front rotors were "just barely" within spec and I couldn't get a new sets via warranty. 3000 miles later, I'm feeling enough lip that it's time to replace the front rotors.

Any suggestions for best replacement rotors? Assume I'll keep the almost new OEM pads, but might upgrade to a slightly better pad down the road. The 135i might see one or two track days a year (using Motul fluids).

I can do brake pads/rotors for my Miata in my sleep. Any reason the BMW would be more complicated?

Thanks.
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      12-25-2013, 08:53 AM   #2
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Changing pads and rotors are not any more difficult than other cars. You just have 6 pistons to push back instead of one. Everything else is fairly similar. There are some 135 DIY instructions on here if you need them.

In terms of rotors, a lot of people go with blanks from centric or Zimmerman.
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      12-25-2013, 12:18 PM   #3
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http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_E8...ors/ES2550968/

2-piece semi floating, will help cool the rotors faster + about 8 lbs. lighter then stock
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      12-25-2013, 12:22 PM   #4
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I would only use BMW rotors bought from a dealer. IF you want something more special opt for the Performance rotors which are slotted and drilled. All the aftermarket rotors will not preform like the OE BMW ones. You will also need new (2)set screws for the rotor hats. G.L.
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      12-25-2013, 02:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I would only use BMW rotors bought from a dealer. IF you want something more special opt for the Performance rotors which are slotted and drilled. All the aftermarket rotors will not preform like the OE BMW ones. You will also need new (2)set screws for the rotor hats. G.L.
Dack- by chance do you have a part number for the screws? I'm about to do brakes and was not thinking about that, as of now I just have the big picture hardware (rotors, pads, fluid). Anything else i'd need besides those screws for the rotors?



OP i'd just go with blanks. Drilled won't offer you any benefit on a street driven car. BMWP rotors if you really want to I guess. I'd generally agree not to stray from OE for brakes, but for what it's worth I know several folks who have run those ECS rotors pretty hard with zero issues.
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      12-25-2013, 05:22 PM   #6
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I just use BMW Performance rotors and redstuff. I bought HAWK HP+ this time around... Never again. Use these bolts for the hats.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ors/ES2162802/
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      12-25-2013, 06:39 PM   #7
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OP, have you mic'ed your rotors? Just because they are forming a lip does not mean they need to be replaced.

Minimum thickness is posted on the hat of the rotor.
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      12-25-2013, 07:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
OP, have you mic'ed your rotors? Just because they are forming a lip does not mean they need to be replaced.

Minimum thickness is posted on the hat of the rotor.
Yes, the dealer did that when they replaced the pads. I dont recall the actual measurement, but I was 2mm from bare minimum specs, I think.
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      12-25-2013, 08:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommeh View Post
I just use BMW Performance rotors and redstuff. I bought HAWK HP+ this time around... Never again. Use these bolts for the hats.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ors/ES2162802/
Merry Xmas, thanks for the link man
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      12-25-2013, 08:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbintx View Post
Yes, the dealer did that when they replaced the pads. I dont recall the actual measurement, but I was 2mm from bare minimum specs, I think.
You have a TON of rotor left.

Look up: SI B 34 05 08

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...b-34-05-08.pdf

Quote:
The Minimum Thickness for general inspection (Motor Vehicle Inspection) is defined as follows:

SI B 34 05 08

Brakes

August 2008
Technical Service
Page 1 of 2

Nominal size thickness minus 2.4 mm (not applicable to perforated brake discs and M vehicles)

M vehicles and perforated (cross-drilled) brake discs: Nominal size thickness minus 1.6 mm

Note: The nominal size thickness refers to the width of a new rotor.

Always refer to the Repair Manual for model-specific information.
AKA - You basically have worn 16.6% of your rotor....

Check your minimum thickness and starting thickness of the rotor (typically by realoem or similar)...but just FYI


No reason to throw away money.
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      12-26-2013, 01:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I would only use BMW rotors bought from a dealer. IF you want something more special opt for the Performance rotors which are slotted and drilled. All the aftermarket rotors will not preform like the OE BMW ones. You will also need new (2)set screws for the rotor hats. G.L.

Hey Dacke, I was wondering if you have heard anything hopefully good about EBC sports rotors? I just picked up a set plus red stuff pads. Thanks!
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      12-26-2013, 05:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135Pats View Post
Dack- by chance do you have a part number for the screws? I'm about to do brakes and was not thinking about that, as of now I just have the big picture hardware (rotors, pads, fluid). Anything else i'd need besides those screws for the rotors?

Here you go! You will need one per rotor...

bmw p/n 34211161806


#3 in this picture...
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...66&hg=34&fg=07
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      12-26-2013, 05:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litebulb View Post
Hey Dackel, I was wondering if you have heard anything hopefully good about EBC sports rotors? I just picked up a set plus red stuff pads. Thanks!

No, sorry I do not. On past BMW's I just got tired of the poor quality of aftermarket rotors. Its not something you can tell right away... but say after six months or use... you know what junk you bought with OEM vs BMW OE parts. There is a difference.

On my old e39 I went thru several brake rotors before breaking down and buying BMW OE ones. I am glad I did. No more rotor issues like vibrations under braking and shorter stopping distances. The BMW rotors even felt heavier to me than the OEM ones.

For my 135i I went with BMW Performance rotors. I am happy with them. And they just look great!

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      12-26-2013, 06:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
No, sorry I do not. On past BMW's I just got tired of the poor quality of aftermarket rotors. Its not something you can tell right away... but say after six months or use... you know what junk you bought with OEM vs BMW OE parts. There is a difference.
Spot on.

Sadly, people never want to take someone's word on this, they have to learn the hard way. The really good indy BMW shop near me actually refuses to work with OEM parts as they got tired of being blamed for their failings.
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      12-26-2013, 07:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Spot on.

Sadly, people never want to take someone's word on this, they have to learn the hard way. The really good indy BMW shop near me actually refuses to work with OEM parts as they got tired of being blamed for their failings.

Yup. Totally agree with your shop.
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      12-26-2013, 07:55 AM   #16
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What about Zimmerman? Aren't they the supplier for the oe brakes?
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      12-26-2013, 08:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez View Post
What about Zimmerman? Aren't they the supplier for the oe brakes?
Supplier=OEM.

OE parts have to meet stringent inspection and proofing standards from BMW. That Roundel being stamped on there isn't simply to raise the price. At best, OEM parts are extras that were never proofed. At worst, they are ones that were rejected that the manufacture resells to recoup some of the production cost. Sometimes they just meander around in the middle ground of being the right measurements, but out of spec in other ways(eg long term heat cycling on rotors).

It is just never worth it. There are factory OE parts, and then there are a few aftermarket upgrades that are an improvement over stock. Usually even then you have to give up something more than cash.
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      12-26-2013, 08:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G
Quote:
Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez View Post
What about Zimmerman? Aren't they the supplier for the oe brakes?
Supplier=OEM.

OE parts have to meet stringent inspection and proofing standards from BMW. That Roundel being stamped on there isn't simply to raise the price. At best, OEM parts are extras that were never proofed. At worst, they are ones that were rejected that the manufacture resells to recoup some of the production cost. Sometimes they just meander around in the middle ground of being the right measurements, but out of spec in other ways(eg long term heat cycling on rotors).

It is just never worth it. There are factory OE parts, and then there are a few aftermarket upgrades that are an improvement over stock. Usually even then you have to give up something more than cash.
Right on.

I figured as much. I always knew you were about the OE stuff. I just never thought the oem supplier would be THAT different.

OE it is for me then when I have to switch
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      12-26-2013, 10:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez View Post
Right on.

I figured as much. I always knew you were about the OE stuff. I just never thought the oem supplier would be THAT different.

OE it is for me then when I have to switch
Much like preventative maintenance, it often ends up saving you money down the road.
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      12-26-2013, 11:01 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
For my 135i I went with BMW Performance rotors. I am happy with them. And they just look great!
Yes, these are very good...two things, though....they don't make a L and R, so on the passenger side, the slots are going the wrong way, and they're not full floating, even though they have nice aluminum hats...I polished mine on the buffer to a mirror finish....
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      12-26-2013, 12:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I would only use BMW rotors bought from a dealer. IF you want something more special opt for the Performance rotors which are slotted and drilled. All the aftermarket rotors will not preform like the OE BMW ones. You will also need new (2)set screws for the rotor hats. G.L.
Generally good advice....but listen to this; my Durango warped the rotors every 6k to 8k miles....Dodge rotors, aftermarket rotors, didn't matter. I finally put the Wilwood BBK with 16" rotors on the front...been on for over 20k, no warping, not even slightly....However, the rear rotors continue to warp every 6k miles...do I buy EXPENSIVE Dodge rotors for $190 each?? No, I buy cheap Summit drilled, slotted rotors for 50 bucks each, and throw the old ones on the WRP (warped rotor pile) in the back of the warehouse.
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      12-26-2013, 12:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
No, sorry I do not. On past BMW's I just got tired of the poor quality of aftermarket rotors. Its not something you can tell right away... but say after six months or use... you know what junk you bought with OEM vs BMW OE parts. There is a difference.

On my old e39 I went thru several brake rotors before breaking down and buying BMW OE ones. I am glad I did. No more rotor issues like vibrations under braking and shorter stopping distances. The BMW rotors even felt heavier to me than the OEM ones.

For my 135i I went with BMW Performance rotors. I am happy with them. And they just look great!
Thanks again. (fingers crossed)
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