Jumping car = fried FRM module? FRM troubleshooting.

Rated-M3 · 09-06-2016, 12:25 PM

Hi everyone,

How likely is it that jump starting the car could have fried the FRM module in a 2010 128i? My wife had to get a jump before leaving work last Friday and afterwards her windows and lights (Except the low beams and tail/brake lamps) do not work along with the dash intermittently showing the door open warning. Dash shows error code CCID 231. I've jumped the car in the past with no ill effect after leaving the ignition on while working on it.

She rolled the driver's side window down before the jump and there were no other signs of imminent failure prior to the jump. The car has had an intermittent light bulb (One of the front turn signal) warning for the past couple of years now in which the light did function despite the error. The car had the original battery which still shows green in the peep hole but the charge wasn't enough to start the car again later that day. I replaced the battery and it didn't fix the issues. I don't know if there's a short draining the battery at this time but the car has been starting as I try to get BMW Standard Tools running, which segways to my next question.

If the FRM module is fried, will that cause issues connecting to the car with troubleshooting software? I bought a cheap cable with 1 day shipping from Amazon to try and sort it out over the weekend but had no luck. So, I ordered a cable from ************** as I suspect the cable may be the issue with connecting to the car. I tried a standard OBD reader and it connects fine; there are no check engine codes to read though.

I really want to narrow down the issue rather than throw parts at the car. From what I understand the FRM can be reset if it isn't fried, is that right? And if I have to put a new FRM in, I will have to program it. Hence, an additional reason to having the software up and running. Thanks in advance.

Cavpilot2k · 09-06-2016, 12:29 PM

And here I thought we were going to have a thread about catching air in our cars and the detrimental effects it could have...

#disappointed

TheCaptain · 09-06-2016, 12:33 PM

Did you replace it with a BMW battery?

Did you code the new battery?

Rated-M3 · 09-06-2016, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k

And here I thought we were going to have a thread about catching air in our cars and the detrimental effects it could have...

#disappointed

Lol. Not today... Just dealing with the complications of a modern BMW. Almost want to send it to the dealer but I'm too cheap to do so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheCaptain

Did you replace it with a BMW battery?

Did you code the new battery?

Replaced with an AGM Advance Auto (Deka) battery. Trying to get to the point of being able to reprogram the battery but need to get the software to connect with the car first.

Dackelone · 09-06-2016, 12:45 PM

Its quite possible a module was fried. Especially IF the battery cables were hooked up wrong for a second or two. You might just want to send the car to a dealer and make a comp claim with your insurance company. In most states that's a zero deductable.

twinboost_MD · 09-07-2016, 07:58 AM

kind of a long shot but check the battery fuses. if coding doesn't work you could also have a parasitic leak somewhere, loose ground, etc. or worst case you fried it but I wouldn't put my money on it

Rated-M3 · 09-16-2016, 02:01 AM

Don't want to leave my thread without resolution. I got the new cable and was able to connect to the car. Coded and registered the new battery. Determined the FRM was toast so, I ordered a new one. Installed it last night and figured out how to code it. I needed more recent SP Daten files as WinKFP did not have the part number for the latest FRM that supersedes all others. Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. So, far so good.

Vetienne · 03-02-2019, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rated-M3

Don't want to leave my thread without resolution. I got the new cable and was able to connect to the car. Coded and registered the new battery. Determined the FRM was toast so, I ordered a new one. Installed it last night and figured out how to code it. I needed more recent SP Daten files as WinKFP did not have the part number for the latest FRM that supersedes all others. Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. So, far so good.

Hi, where did you ordered a new module and how did you code it think mine on my e90 is fried...

Craig in Alabam · 03-02-2019, 11:05 AM

Hi Rated,

I don't know if you are aware of this, but there's an extended warranty on the FRM from BMW. I had mine (2010 128i) replaced a few years ago at no cost to me. Similar symptoms to yours. You might want to check with your dealer. Hope it works out for you.

Cheers!
Craig

Craig in Alabam · 03-02-2019, 11:18 AM

Also, BMW will reimburse you if you paid to fix it yourself. There's a thread on this somewhere, and you can see the details on the BMW website.

Craig

MightyMouseTech · 03-02-2019, 12:05 PM

Boosting the car absolutely can kill the FRM. Very common for the FRM to die even just disconnecting the battery and reconnecting. We avoid disconnecting batteries on E90 and E82 at all cost because of this.

And check if the extended warranty applies to your car.

2006-330-guy · 04-12-2023, 08:37 PM

Hi all, usually jump my car every spring as I pull it out of storage. There is a recent bmw battery installed by the dealer a year ago. Yesterday was 80 degrees in Madison, WI, so time to get the beemer, jumped to the battery terminals connecting from a running F150, car started, but the power windows, top, radio, wipers are all not working. This had never happened before, but i am learning on this forum that I jumped it in a very risky manner. I checked many many fuses, all good.

So, do I take it to the dealer and have them through parts at it? Is it likely the FRM module you all have been talking about? Is there a relay or other part I should be checking that controls all those items? The car runs fine, just those items are inoperable.

i am new here, perhaps someone can point me to a thread where this has all been discussed, or if anyone can help me in how to approach this problem I would be most appreciative. Thanks! Tom in Madison

btw, headlights work fine, so not the FRM?

WTFM2 · 04-12-2023, 11:30 PM

It sound like your frm this controls, your windows, your radio, etc. lights

I done this twice best thing to do when jumpstarting a car it just remove the FRM or just unplug it and after you jumpstart it plugged it right back in you’ll be good. Just need a 10mm drive side near the obd by your foot area .

Just get recode and fix the fault and you will be fine . Just send it out in a week or less yoh get it back and with the battery plug in just reinstall your frm .

2006-330-guy · 04-15-2023, 02:43 PM

Hey WTF M2, i followed the FRM videos, got the trim out, no FRM Module! apparently 2006 was a year where both E90 and E46 were produced, mine is a E46. Given that, any thoughts on how to approach this? There is a LCM module that controls the lights, and I have seen reference to a g5 module that may or may not help, and I found on thread that sad to disconnect battery properly, cross leads for 10 min, that will reset the electrical system. So I did it, and now all is working ! I am agog. That bit of info was not readily found but that sure is a great first step when trying to unravel this type of problem!

09-06-2016, 12:25 PM	#1
Rated-M3 Enlisted Member 22 Rep 34 Posts Drives: '98 M3, '10 128i Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Jumping car = fried FRM module? FRM troubleshooting. Hi everyone, How likely is it that jump starting the car could have fried the FRM module in a 2010 128i? My wife had to get a jump before leaving work last Friday and afterwards her windows and lights (Except the low beams and tail/brake lamps) do not work along with the dash intermittently showing the door open warning. Dash shows error code CCID 231. I've jumped the car in the past with no ill effect after leaving the ignition on while working on it. She rolled the driver's side window down before the jump and there were no other signs of imminent failure prior to the jump. The car has had an intermittent light bulb (One of the front turn signal) warning for the past couple of years now in which the light did function despite the error. The car had the original battery which still shows green in the peep hole but the charge wasn't enough to start the car again later that day. I replaced the battery and it didn't fix the issues. I don't know if there's a short draining the battery at this time but the car has been starting as I try to get BMW Standard Tools running, which segways to my next question. If the FRM module is fried, will that cause issues connecting to the car with troubleshooting software? I bought a cheap cable with 1 day shipping from Amazon to try and sort it out over the weekend but had no luck. So, I ordered a cable from ************** as I suspect the cable may be the issue with connecting to the car. I tried a standard OBD reader and it connects fine; there are no check engine codes to read though. I really want to narrow down the issue rather than throw parts at the car. From what I understand the FRM can be reset if it isn't fried, is that right? And if I have to put a new FRM in, I will have to program it. Hence, an additional reason to having the software up and running. Thanks in advance.
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

09-06-2016, 12:29 PM	#2
Cavpilot2k Chief Warrant Officer 1023 Rep 1,638 Posts Drives: like a damn lunatic Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Boston iTrader: (0)	And here I thought we were going to have a thread about catching air in our cars and the detrimental effects it could have... #disappointed __________________ "Prius" is Latin for Eunuch. "Hrothgar": 2012 135i: 6MT M-Sport, BSM/Blk; Nav, Premium, Convenience, HK Dinan Stage 2 +PPK /// BMW PE /// VRSF CP /// K&N /// Koni Sports /// RSFB Inserts /// MPS4S 225/255 /// Other Stuff
	Appreciate 1 Matticus913474.50 Quote

09-06-2016, 12:33 PM	#3
TheCaptain Second Lieutenant 65 Rep 275 Posts Drives: m235i x 'vert Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: NY iTrader: (0)	Did you replace it with a BMW battery? Did you code the new battery?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-06-2016, 12:45 PM	#5
Dackelone European Editor 10539 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	Its quite possible a module was fried. Especially IF the battery cables were hooked up wrong for a second or two. You might just want to send the car to a dealer and make a comp claim with your insurance company. In most states that's a zero deductable. __________________ Dackel's European Delivery Museum Guide
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-07-2016, 07:58 AM	#6
twinboost_MD Private First Class 19 Rep 188 Posts Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Washington, DC iTrader: (0)	kind of a long shot but check the battery fuses. if coding doesn't work you could also have a parasitic leak somewhere, loose ground, etc. or worst case you fried it but I wouldn't put my money on it __________________ E46 M3 ---> AW 135i on Coral Red - JB4 w/MHD Backend - Alpina B3 - Koni Yellows - H&R Super Sport Springs - Powerflex Rear Upper Shock Mounts - ///M Strut Tower Bar
	Appreciate 0 Quote

09-16-2016, 02:01 AM	#7
Rated-M3 Enlisted Member 22 Rep 34 Posts Drives: '98 M3, '10 128i Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Don't want to leave my thread without resolution. I got the new cable and was able to connect to the car. Coded and registered the new battery. Determined the FRM was toast so, I ordered a new one. Installed it last night and figured out how to code it. I needed more recent SP Daten files as WinKFP did not have the part number for the latest FRM that supersedes all others. Buttoned everything up and went for a test drive. So, far so good.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-02-2019, 11:05 AM	#9
Craig in Alabam Private 27 Rep 91 Posts Drives: 2017 230i Convertible Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Madison, AL iTrader: (0)	Hi Rated, I don't know if you are aware of this, but there's an extended warranty on the FRM from BMW. I had mine (2010 128i) replaced a few years ago at no cost to me. Similar symptoms to yours. You might want to check with your dealer. Hope it works out for you. Cheers! Craig
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-02-2019, 11:18 AM	#10
Craig in Alabam Private 27 Rep 91 Posts Drives: 2017 230i Convertible Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Madison, AL iTrader: (0)	Also, BMW will reimburse you if you paid to fix it yourself. There's a thread on this somewhere, and you can see the details on the BMW website. Craig
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-02-2019, 12:05 PM	#11
MightyMouseTech Major General 4338 Rep 6,196 Posts Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Ottawa, Canada iTrader: (0)	Boosting the car absolutely can kill the FRM. Very common for the FRM to die even just disconnecting the battery and reconnecting. We avoid disconnecting batteries on E90 and E82 at all cost because of this. And check if the extended warranty applies to your car.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-12-2023, 08:37 PM	#12
2006-330-guy Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: BMW 330 Join Date: Apr 2023 Location: Madison, WI iTrader: (0)	2006 330 convertible jump start, no windos, radio, wipers top Hi all, usually jump my car every spring as I pull it out of storage. There is a recent bmw battery installed by the dealer a year ago. Yesterday was 80 degrees in Madison, WI, so time to get the beemer, jumped to the battery terminals connecting from a running F150, car started, but the power windows, top, radio, wipers are all not working. This had never happened before, but i am learning on this forum that I jumped it in a very risky manner. I checked many many fuses, all good. So, do I take it to the dealer and have them through parts at it? Is it likely the FRM module you all have been talking about? Is there a relay or other part I should be checking that controls all those items? The car runs fine, just those items are inoperable. i am new here, perhaps someone can point me to a thread where this has all been discussed, or if anyone can help me in how to approach this problem I would be most appreciative. Thanks! Tom in Madison btw, headlights work fine, so not the FRM? Last edited by 2006-330-guy; 04-12-2023 at 09:14 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-12-2023, 11:30 PM	#13
WTFM2 New Member 21 Rep 24 Posts Drives: Bmw Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: NorCal iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 1m [0.00]	It sound like your frm this controls, your windows, your radio, etc. lights I done this twice best thing to do when jumpstarting a car it just remove the FRM or just unplug it and after you jumpstart it plugged it right back in you’ll be good. Just need a 10mm drive side near the obd by your foot area . Just get recode and fix the fault and you will be fine . Just send it out in a week or less yoh get it back and with the battery plug in just reinstall your frm .
	Appreciate 1 jwolf63.00 Quote

04-15-2023, 02:43 PM	#14
2006-330-guy Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: BMW 330 Join Date: Apr 2023 Location: Madison, WI iTrader: (0)	Hey WTF M2, i followed the FRM videos, got the trim out, no FRM Module! apparently 2006 was a year where both E90 and E46 were produced, mine is a E46. Given that, any thoughts on how to approach this? There is a LCM module that controls the lights, and I have seen reference to a g5 module that may or may not help, and I found on thread that sad to disconnect battery properly, cross leads for 10 min, that will reset the electrical system. So I did it, and now all is working ! I am agog. That bit of info was not readily found but that sure is a great first step when trying to unravel this type of problem!
	Appreciate 0 Quote