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      03-10-2013, 07:28 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by simianspeedster View Post
Why Premium/Sunroof? I would have dropped this package but for one simple need: lumbar support.
I completely understand where you're coming from here. And it's not just BMW that won't do an adjustable lumbar support as standard: My wife wound up having to get the top of the line in her Rav4 to get the adjustable lumbar support, so there, too, she had to get a bunch of stuff she didn't really care about to avoid back pain. I don't tend to need it myself (though the 5 hours I spent in the Miata yesterday and a twinge in my back today says this may be changing), I would've been in exactly the same boat. After a few test drives each way, I ordered the 135i, rendering the point moot, but I was seriously considering a 128i for many of the same reasons you did-- after all, it's the last of the old-school BMWs.

It's interesting to see your thought process, since it in a lot of ways mirrored my own. There were differences-- I was getting a sunroof either way, as that's my #1 complaint with the Mustang GT I'm daily-driving now, for example. But in most ways, I'm right there with you on your thought processes.
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      03-10-2013, 05:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simianspeedster View Post
I've posted elsewhere on this forum about my thought process (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685467) but the basic rationale for my decision follows the storyline of Goldilocks and the Three Bears.

My current car is a 2011 335i Coupe. In retrospect, I find it to be just a bit too big, soft and heavy for my tastes. Before that, I had a 2007 Z4 Coupe that I really liked for the most part, but it became a bit impractical over time and it was hard as nails (that car was not tuned for run-flats, and it showed).

Basically, I was looking for the "in between" car and that's good description for the a 128i Coupe. I don't need gobs of power -- in fact, I'd rather have a bit less power if it means I can rev the engine and row the gears more. And as good as the N55 engine is, I still haven't met a turbocharged engine that I prefer to a naturally aspirated inline 6. The N52 may not set the world on fire anymore, but it's simply a great engine and it reminds me of the BMWs I grew up with and admired.

To answer some of the questions in the thread:

Why Premium/Sunroof? I would have dropped this package but for one simple need: lumbar support. It completely cheeses me that BMW doesn't offer manual lumbar support standard or even as part of the sports seats option, but it is what it is. I've driven a couple BMWs without lumbar support (loaners and test drives) and my back starts to hurt within minutes. I'm sure there are all matter of cheap fixes, but I don't want to have an upholsterer open the seats or add some tacky pillow, so the Premium Package was added. The power memory seats are also nice for my wife as she sometimes drives my car and vice versa.

Why E82 instead of F22? I'm sure the F22 will be a fine car, but I'm fairly sure it won't be the right car for me if it follows in the footsteps of the F30. I'm borderline disgusted with my wife's F30 -- it simply doesn't feel like a BMW to me. The engine, while powerful and efficient, has zero enjoyment or soul. The base suspension is very poorly tuned. The steering is lifeless. And the entire car is overrun with eco-garbage. Maybe it's the future, but I don't have to like it today! In short, I don't believe the F22 will share some of the direct, old school features that I most appreciate about the E82 (especially the NA engine and hydraulic steering).

Why the Performance Suspension and 225s all around? This car is primarily going to be a daily driver, so I want it to achieve a solid balance between sportiness and relative comfort. I'm just looking to take some of the body movement and slop out of the regular sports suspension. From everything I've read from other owners the Performance Suspension is a good fit for that description. It may be "pretty terrible" to you (though that seems like hyperbole) but I think it will fit my needs nicely and the warranty coverage is a nice plus. As for the wheels and tires, lightweight 18x8s and Michelin PSS tires all around represent a good middle ground and I believe they will offer sufficient grip for my config. My 335i could use a bit more front end grip, but it has a lot more weight and runflats, so I think the square config on a 128i will be an improvement.

If I've ruffled anyone's feathers with my opinions, please note that they are only *my* opinions and I only apply them to myself. I fully understand why people prefer the 135i and I'm sure there are people who love their F30s -- If I wanted a 135i or a new 335i, I'd get one, but I really admire the relative old school simplicity of the E82 and I want to get one before they're no longer available. Basically, I know my tastes and I'm finally building a car that matches them closely without going overboard.
You're going to be an awesome member-- proper driver's car values and good writing ability.

The 128i is the only car BMW makes at this point that I want, and it's just awesome-- the LAST of traditional BMWs. Lightweight 17s with real (non runflat, high quality) tires, DISA, and a DISA enabling tune, and it's easily the best non M car BMW has ever made for my wants. Better than the M cars in a lot of ways as well.

SS headers are an awesome, too, if you're willing to go off stock.
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      03-10-2013, 07:56 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
yes my N52.. if you're in 1st or 2nd in traffic and let the revs drop, it will... how to describe.. 'jerk' a bit below 2000 just once. it happens on any high-compression motor in my experience though, regardless of cylinder configuration. - besides, there's no proof of headers giving a 20hp gain? i mean, logically they will, but there's no proof still

Sounds like you didn't disable the CDV.

For the header gains, here you go:




Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
what else is idrive? a small module, a screen, some wires and harnesses :/ 40lb is more than most massive radio transmitters will weigh lol
It all adds up. Had it all together from a stripped out car the other day and it was a little over 40lbs. Don't forget the computer brain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
no? :/... something like the older M3's... high 3xxhp N/A i6 screamer with basic mods and a tune, that would be ideal if you could get it in a modern BMW.. but no, best you can get is 265-270hp... i mean, i AM going pretty ridiculous 600-800 on the N54, but that's by the by. *because i can*/.. not sure why you'd think it wouldn't be enjoyable though
We'll see where I am at in the end, but I have no doubt it will be higher than 265hp.

600-800hp in a 1 series will be a completely ruined car.
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      03-10-2013, 10:18 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Sounds like you didn't disable the CDV.

For the header gains, here you go:






It all adds up. Had it all together from a stripped out car the other day and it was a little over 40lbs. Don't forget the computer brain.



We'll see where I am at in the end, but I have no doubt it will be higher than 265hp.

600-800hp in a 1 series will be a completely ruined car.
CDV = clutch delay valve, has no impact when the clutch is in.. and i have mine totally removed anyway.

with the dyno there.. since it's measuring flywheel power, is it hooked up to an engine brake? as in, the engine is not in the car?.. it doesn't make sense anyway.. blue line is 220hp then red is 280?? i don't know of any N52's that are 220bhp?.. and if it's NOT measured on an engine brake it cannot be accurate :/

that's... that's amazingly heavy, sounds like pretty poor design from BMW! :O


there are already 135i's with high 5xx low 6xx hp and none appear ruined .. i've been in high 4xx and they're great.. have to remember it's still a 3300lb car full weight, there are plenty even lighter with more power
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      03-11-2013, 02:28 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
You're going to be an awesome member-- proper driver's car values and good writing ability.

The 128i is the only car BMW makes at this point that I want, and it's just awesome-- the LAST of traditional BMWs. Lightweight 17s with real (non runflat, high quality) tires, DISA, and a DISA enabling tune, and it's easily the best non M car BMW has ever made for my wants. Better than the M cars in a lot of ways as well.

SS headers are an awesome, too, if you're willing to go off stock.
Thanks, man. I'm excited to join the club. My current and previous car had no mods, so I felt as if I was standing on the sidelines, but with this car I'm getting into the game.

I thought about going with 17s, but I admittedly decided to go with 18s as a nod to aesthetics. That said, the 18" wheels and tires I'm adding will weigh 6.75 lbs. less at each corner than the stock 17x7" wheels with lousy 205/50-17 RFTs, so it's all upside.

Given my goals for this car, I doubt I'll make any engine mods, but I'm still gathering info out of curiosity.
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      03-11-2013, 06:31 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simianspeedster View Post
Thanks, man. I'm excited to join the club. My current and previous car had no mods, so I felt as if I was standing on the sidelines, but with this car I'm getting into the game.

I thought about going with 17s, but I admittedly decided to go with 18s as a nod to aesthetics. That said, the 18" wheels and tires I'm adding will weigh 6.75 lbs. less at each corner than the stock 17x7" wheels with lousy 205/50-17 RFTs, so it's all upside.

Given my goals for this car, I doubt I'll make any engine mods, but I'm still gathering info out of curiosity.
Factory parts with factory tune and factory reliability gets you to 265 hp. Parts are $400 used. That's impossible to say no to, imo!
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      03-11-2013, 07:52 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
CDV = clutch delay valve, has no impact when the clutch is in.. and i have mine totally removed anyway.

with the dyno there.. since it's measuring flywheel power, is it hooked up to an engine brake? as in, the engine is not in the car?.. it doesn't make sense anyway.. blue line is 220hp then red is 280?? i don't know of any N52's that are 220bhp?.. and if it's NOT measured on an engine brake it cannot be accurate :/

that's... that's amazingly heavy, sounds like pretty poor design from BMW! :O


there are already 135i's with high 5xx low 6xx hp and none appear ruined .. i've been in high 4xx and they're great.. have to remember it's still a 3300lb car full weight, there are plenty even lighter with more power
That dyno is from a Z4 3.0si (also an N52). It's that because that's what SS used as the development car.

SS's dyno can measure drivetrain power loss when it's winding down. They do a pull up (blue), pull down, and then add them together-- the result is engine HP (light red). They then do it again with the exhaust mod (in this case headers) and repeat (dark red).

20 hp from the SS headers seems conservative to me. They're going from collectors with integrated (and huge) cats to actual headers. It certainly feels like more than 20. We'll have independent dynos soon enough.

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      03-11-2013, 02:11 PM   #30
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You guys are like drug pushers!

"You know you want more power. Come on, it's easy and cheap."
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      03-12-2013, 03:14 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
That dyno is from a Z4 3.0si (also an N52). It's that because that's what SS used as the development car.

SS's dyno can measure drivetrain power loss when it's winding down. They do a pull up (blue), pull down, and then add them together-- the result is engine HP (light red). They then do it again with the exhaust mod (in this case headers) and repeat (dark red).
that's not how it works [in real life] and is very dodgy

plus again, 220bhp was never offered in N52B30 so very inaccurate

but ok thanks for informing me
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      03-12-2013, 05:56 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
that's not how it works [in real life] and is very dodgy

plus again, 220bhp was never offered in N52B30 so very inaccurate

but ok thanks for informing me
I don't think you read that fully-- 220 was the rear wheel ps.
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      03-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #33
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Check out my dyno thread to see how the intake manifold affects the 128i
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      03-15-2013, 01:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Congrats....!

Wow, you added in a lot of options....
As you can see from my signature, I did very much the same thing.

My thinking:

• MT - nothing more needs to be said
• I won't buy a car without xenons (once you've had HID, you can't go back)
• HK stereo is one of the best value factory audio upgrades around
• Sport package is a "necessity" for the seats alone
• Premium package - OK $3,600 is a lot for Homelink but you get some other stuff too

My car turned 66,666 miles this morning.

Like the OP I plan to order a new one soon (exact same specs in Mineral Grey) in order to have the last MY BMW with NA I-6 and hydraulic steering. Also, I don't want my next car to have an iPad sticking up out of the dashboard.
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      03-15-2013, 02:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simianspeedster View Post
Thanks, man. I'm excited to join the club. My current and previous car had no mods, so I felt as if I was standing on the sidelines, but with this car I'm getting into the game.

I thought about going with 17s, but I admittedly decided to go with 18s as a nod to aesthetics. That said, the 18" wheels and tires I'm adding will weigh 6.75 lbs. less at each corner than the stock 17x7" wheels with lousy 205/50-17 RFTs, so it's all upside.

Given my goals for this car, I doubt I'll make any engine mods, but I'm still gathering info out of curiosity.
My 17"s save 10.1 lbs per corner of unstrung weight.
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      03-15-2013, 02:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
My 17"s save 10.1 lbs per corner of unstrung weight.
17s are the best.


Because its just just about weight. Inertia is a much more important parameter, which forum types tend to forget.







Also for a 128 MSport is a must, its suspension and the stellar seats for 128s.
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      03-15-2013, 03:59 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
My 17"s save 10.1 lbs per corner of unstrung weight.
Yeah, I know I could save a few more pounds but I'm probably going to make a sole concession to aesthetics just because. For me, the math is as follows:

Stock = 48.3 lbs. per corner (17x7 Style 206 + 205/55-17 Goodyear NCT)
18x8 Square = 41.8 lbs./corner (18x8 Apex Aero 7 & 225/40-18 Michelin PSS) = 6.5 lb. savings per corner (oops, I said 6.75 before)
17x7 Square 1 = 39.2 lbs./coner (17x7 BBS RG-R & 225/40-18 Michelin PSS) = 9.1 lb savings per corner
17x7 Square 2 = 38.5 lbs./corner (lightweight 17x7s & 225/45-17 Michelin PSS) = 9.8 lb. savings per corner

I'll look at the 17x8 rim options to see if I like anything, but I really dig those Aero 7s.

Last edited by simianspeedster; 03-16-2013 at 02:37 AM..
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      03-15-2013, 05:30 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenVert View Post
17s are the best.

Because its just just about weight. Inertia is a much more important parameter, which forum types tend to forget.

Also for a 128 MSport is a must, its suspension and the stellar seats for 128s.
People are about as stupid about wheels as they are about brakes when it comes to forums. 100% agreement on optimal sizing.

Steering wheel is also a massive bonus of MSport. The thickness feels so good, at least until you upgrade it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simianspeedster View Post
Yeah, I know I could save a few more pounds but I'm probably going to make a sole concession to aesthetics just because. For me, the math is as follows:

Stock = 48.3 lbs. per corner (17x7 Style 206 + 205/55-17 Goodyear NCT)
18x8 Square = 41.8 lbs./corner (18x8 Aero 7 + 225/40-18 Michelin PSS) = 6.5 lbs. savings per corner (oops, I said 6.75 before)
17 x 7 Square = 38.5 lbs/corner (lightweight 17x7s + 225/45-17 Michelin PSS) = 9.8 lbs. savings per corner

I'll look at the 17x8 rim options to see if I like anything, but I really dig those Aero 7s.
17x8 BBS RG-Rs are 17.24 lbs each and 8000 ton forged.
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      03-15-2013, 09:50 PM   #39
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Congrats

We think alike; I LOVE my 128 6MT, spt pkg. Had it on the track for BMW HPDE and it performed flawlessly. 17's on mine b/c its a USA car. Very unfortunately have 2 BMW's and 1 will have to go this spring. I think 5 cars for my wife and I is OK but she thinks its 1 too many.
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      03-16-2013, 12:59 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA128 View Post
As you can see from my signature, I did very much the same thing.

My thinking:

• MT - nothing more needs to be said
• I won't buy a car without xenons (once you've had HID, you can't go back)
• HK stereo is one of the best value factory audio upgrades around
• Sport package is a "necessity" for the seats alone
• Premium package - OK $3,600 is a lot for Homelink but you get some other stuff too

My car turned 66,666 miles this morning.

Like the OP I plan to order a new one soon (exact same specs in Mineral Grey) in order to have the last MY BMW with NA I-6 and hydraulic steering. Also, I don't want my next car to have an iPad sticking up out of the dashboard.
Sweet!

I skipped the M-Sport package (Sport is no longer available) because the sport seats were available as a separate option and I'm swapping my suspension. I have M-Sport now on my 335i and, while I generally like the shifter and steering wheel, I don't dislike the stock equivalents. If I end up wanting something different, I'll change 'em out, but I think that's unlikely. Also, I seem to be one of the rare people who prefers the chrome window trim (again, old school), especially with my chosen color, and I prefer a light headliner, so no M-Sport for me and no regrets!

So, in nearly 67,000 miles, any major issues to speak of?

Last edited by simianspeedster; 03-16-2013 at 01:59 AM..
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      03-16-2013, 01:11 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
17x8 BBS RG-Rs are 17.24 lbs each and 8000 ton forged.
I'll look into those, but they're fairly expensive at around $675 each. For my weight calculations above, I was assuming 16.5 lbs. per corner for 17x8" rims -- Tire Rack has several 17x8" options in that weight range, though I'm not particularly fond of any of them.

Any other 17x8" suggestions in the same style realm? I've been enamored with BBS rims since I was a kid, but they're quite pricey.
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      03-16-2013, 02:35 AM   #42
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With wheels, you're doing well if you get 2 out of 3. There is no 3/3:
Light
Cheap
Strong

Choose your poison :P
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      03-16-2013, 02:45 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obioban View Post
With wheels, you're doing well if you get 2 out of 3. There is no 3/3:
Light
Cheap
Strong

Choose your poison :P
I think the Apex Aero-7s are a good all around compromise. Though not the absolute lightest option, they're fairly light (19 lbs. each for 18x8"), very fairly priced ($299/wheel for 18x8"), and I have no reason to doubt their strength. AFAIK, there are no horror stories about Apex wheels from other members -- in fact they seem to have a reputation for strength from what I can tell reading other threads -- and I imagine many locations have far worse roads than I face in SoCal.

Oh, and I think they look the business.
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      03-16-2013, 08:04 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simianspeedster View Post
I think the Apex Aero-7s are a good all around compromise. Though not the absolute lightest option, they're fairly light (19 lbs. each for 18x8"), very fairly priced ($299/wheel for 18x8"), and I have no reason to doubt their strength. AFAIK, there are no horror stories about Apex wheels from other members -- in fact they seem to have a reputation for strength from what I can tell reading other threads -- and I imagine many locations have far worse roads than I face in SoCal.

Oh, and I think they look the business.
APEX wheels are certainly strong for what they are and they have amazing customer service/support, but they are cast instead of forged(8000 ton forged in the case of BBS) and their strength is limited comparatively.

They are a hugely better choice than pretty much anything else at the price point for sure.
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